Thanks! very self explanatory it helped out alot bcuz of how u showed n explained it I think I could do myself instead of having my BF doing it it doesn't seem to hard, I've done an oil change now I'll give this a try, yes please have more on connecting hoses or putting in a new thermostat or possibly something bout heater core
Nathan - Dude, I cannot thank you enough for this video. So helpful and very well explained. Exactly the same for my wife's 2001 BMW X5 (hunk of shit)... None the less, getting it going with the heater on definitely allowed me to get the system bled good, most of the air out. I will say, I cranked up the passenger side to 90° also - and the level dropped even more - So for what that's worth - I think that helped bleed it more thoroughly - and get even more air out. Thanks again - and to some of the comments below, Prestone is what I use also. In my opinion, if the coolant system is full and not leaking, I believe I am good... Remember the car is 17 years old...
No issue to bent the clip ? If you already push down before insert in ? I will try have audi same clip new hose but want clip but tried to push with clip up !
Thanks for making all these helpful vids for us broke bmw dummies. Yeah, that's pretty much every single subscriber. It's OK though, that's what makes RU-vid awesome... My question is, Does it matter what kind of grease you use to "ease" the hose install? I saw in another one of your videos, you swore by WD40. And, 50skid used silicone. And, all to help with the ease of installation. But, I have read grease also helps seal the grommets to the mating surface. Since having an issue with new hose leaking, with multiple installs, I've been wondering if there is a safe and not safe grease to use. Or, if any are better than the others for this job. Thanks again for your time in putting together these videos for us. =)
Nathan in another of your vids like this you mentioned plastic sides of radiator can be re-crimped. How would one do that process? do you have a video on this? do you have one on how to remove radiator? thanks. your videos are awesome!!!!
You do not need to completely remove the bleed screw. You turn it anti-clockwise till it is raised by 2mm approximately and just fill the coolant, once the coolant starts oozing out, just tighten it up. Should use geniune coolant to reduce corrosion.
Harbor Freight has a 16 piece radiator and coolant test pressurizing kit. i found my leak with it. with a 20% off coupon it was about $70. Auto zone had nothing to loan out. they would sell me one. didnt look like adapters would fit BMW Reseviour filler. Advanced Auto had none. O'Reileys had one took home did not fit. so went with harbor freight.
Nathan great vid... ? I have is I need 2 replace my AC fan motor... should I get that done 1st cause @ the end of ur vid, u turn on the heat & mines doesnt blow... by the way I have a 2006 530i... thx in advance...
My e46 is losing coolant fairly fast and after running for about 10 minutes it smokes from the hood but not the exhuast and I believe it’s coming from my top hose is that possible!
Hey Nathan, I'm doing the timing chain guides on an M62tu and came across an issue, the bank 1 exhaust sprocket can't be turned, and we've already put so much pressure on it we spun the sprocket without the cam turning. I was wondering what the best way would be to remove this, and if you've ever had this issue before. Thanks!
Turning the t-55, it's locked at tdc, so I don't imagine it would be hitting. All three other t-55s came out fine on the VANOS and bank 2 exhaust.. Guessing I'm going to have to get a new camshaft.
Hi Nathan. I am seeing conflicting procedures on bleeding coolant on my 2002 X5 with a M54 engine. I have not replace hoses or anything recently but my heater was only working sometimes this winter. I checked the coolant level and it was low. I added enough coolant to come out of the bleed screw but it made the coolant go to the top of the fill pipe. Since I didn't replace hoses do I need to siphon off some to just make the float rise to full? Thanks
Alan Here just follow the bleed procedure in the video, if there is any question do the complete bleed procedure, if your heat is not working it probably is the heater valve on the driver strut tower
Mine is stuck good and I have nothing to pry against so maybe I will just leave it and hope the vw coolant and distilled water dissolves whatever is making it stick so bad, and try again in 2 years or so, since my old hose looks and feels fine after 13 years. It's as if somebody used epoxy instead of lithium grease. I use sil-glide btw, or sometimes tire shine. what does the factory use? nothing?
alan6832 my upper hose has a small leak. hose is stuck good. dont want to damage radiator. so i'm thinking of pulling the metal wire clips all the way out. then with a dremel roto tool and a fiber cutting blade carefully cutting through the plastic ends of the hoses. being careful to not cut into resiviour hose neck. the hose it is going to be tossed out so i can use a screwdriver to split the hose ends when the dremel is close to cutting thru. well thats my plan
Yes use a small pry bar or large flat screwdriver and gently pry it off once the clip is up, carefully not to pry against the plastic side of the radiator, you can also use penetrating oil or wd40 to spray around the fittings that might loosen it up
Ok thank you, I also just realized I will have to take off a metal piece of my car I’m not really sure what it is, I’m only 15, but I will need to take it off to get the other hose off. But thank you.
Ok I need help 😂, so the other day I was running without coolant and dat little hose pop out and I try to put it but it won’t go all the way in and I try driving while it was half in then it pop out sum 1 help 😂😂😂😂!!
