CLICK HERE TO BUY YOUR NEXT FEBI BMW PARTS ON MY AMAZON STORE www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.ac...\ BMW E60 M5 S85 Rod Bearing Replacement For Business Contact : Nathan's BMW Workshop Po Box 115 Altenburg Mo 63732 nathan.youtube@yahoo.com
I'm a subscriber...Nathan everytime I see one of your videos pop up. At the end of each video I'm hoping my BMW's aren't suffering from the same issues. And after checking my cars...sure enough..same problems. You've been a great help. Thanks
You pay your bills making videos about fixing cars. The more work you have to do on the car, the more videos/$ you make. What better car is there to guarantee an endless supply of videos than an E60 M5?!
I love how bmw can just walk away when they fuck up, this job should’ve been a recall, instead bmw looked at it they realized that they should’ve used better bearings, and then they decided it’s a maintenance item now let the customer deal with it LOL.
Hey Nathan, Im a big fan of your channel and your vids on the rod bearings actually inspired me to buy a 2008 LCI - Im planning on doing the rod bearings myself but couldn't yet figure out how to measure the clearances since the engine is still in the car and wont be removed. Did you just put the STD size rod bearings on it ? Awesome stuff !
Thanks for the video!!! I was looking at a BMW 2021 BMW M5 Competition but I am rethinking that purchase now...lol....What do you think have they gotten better and have they upgraded and fixed this issue.? Thanks for the video again. You got a new sub!
@@jeremypetix4493 ARP's metallurgy and manufacturing process. OE quality rod bolts use "softer" metals and will stretch, hence a torque, plus x degrees in high stress applications e.g. suspension and engine rotating assemblies. The ARP bolts are stronger because of the manufacturing processes higher tensile strength metal due tighter granularity, carbides, chromium content etc. costs more to produce. There is way more to it than that but that is the basics. That'll be $400 so I can get my ARP rod bolts. ;)
It's interesting as normally when you replace rod bolts you would have to check the rod for "roundness" and maybe some might need resize. Bit of a gamble like this.
Even with arp, I would do a 25 and then a 50 to make sure one end isn't pulled hard in first shot to 50. It doesn't harm to do in 2 steps.its about the stretch achieved. But doing in steps will reduce the skew.
A lot of people say it's not good to loosen bolts with a torque wrench... But if that's the case, then why is there a reversing option on them. What the case really is, you are just putting extra wear on it really
@@paulkile9998 that is what I was thinking left hand threads I have a separate old torque wrench use to remove stubborn bolts, as most of those wrenches are longer and fatter gives better grip
@@paulkile9998 right, which is no different than loosening a bolt, which validates my point, that it's not wrong put reverse stress on a torque wrench... Unless the bolt originally torqued with a different and bigger torque wrench
I have a question nathan. Where did you get the ARP bolts from. You said they were $400 but you didn't say where you got them from. Help me with this please. Thanks alot man
@Nathan Nice work man! Question on E36 328I sedan w/ auto trans, can you recommend a quality replacement radiator other than a factory made one that won't break the bank? . prefer to purchase on amazon. Thanks in advance
Dont even think about it, buying that car is like picking up chicks at walmart , looks good in the store but when you get her home and she takes her glass eye out and teeth out look out lol
Hey Nathan, I’m looking into buying a e39(530i) 2003 for 5k and It has 115k. I’m 18 and know only a few things about working on cars. That being the case i am going to school to be a mechanic. Would you recommend I get this car? I live in Dallas btw
I recommend you to get an E90 non turbo for you first BMW, very easy to work on once you get a hang of bit, just don't think is exactly like american cars, is different , if you get an 5 series with a v8 for your first BMW you are going to regret it , if is six in line then yes
whatever you do don't get a turbo anything! As for e39, if the car spent it's whole life in Dallas rust won't be an issue. If it spent it's life in NJ where I live just walk. As for the 530 the cooling system must be changed , if it doesn't have receipts for that repair, walk. Don't get an e60. Trust me I have one and they are money pits and the e60 is a low point in quality. Also you'll need a transmission service. Altogether if you don't have 7k walk. You will need atleast 2500 in immediate funds to have a 17 year old BMW in good enough shape so you can call it reliable
fernando sandoval I love the Bmw 550i with these cars you must fine you a real mechanic that can fine the problem if there’s one not just throw parts at it or money away and you must keep a scanner with the bmws
@@NathansBMWWorkshop yeah that is the retail price for those any ware, but why did you decide to go for the most expensive ones is what I am wondering?
I love how people saying e60 It’s best bmw Ever made a 95% of them never own one I used to own 2007 m5 manual transmission For 2 years Every time you take for ride you hope nothing breaks E 60 is nothing but a headache
H.P. VANOS pump could be worth $500+. Heads Only $200 each because they do not fail. Crank...add $200+. Coils? $100 all (Cheap). Wiring? Headers? ECU/DCM's and a car! ONLY for persons with skill, but you can do.