Just did this today and it fixed my wastegate rattle completely! I wish I would have taken a before and after video. I wasn't able to get to it from the top, but took the undertray off and was able to get to it from there. Thank you for the n54 videos!
I got a friend who's a mechanic to tighten the actuator arm as shown in your video which stopped the rattling, but I then had massive turbo lag.. So we loosened it back for the performance but the rattle is back damn it!!
It sounds like you may be out of adjustment on the arms, it might be time for rebuilt turbos. The bushing in the exhaust housing wears out to a point where you can't adjust it any longer.
Thats because you tightened it and you should losen it so you actually opened your wastegate thats why you had the turbo lag. The exhaust gasses went through the open wastegate so it will take more RMP to spin the turbo... do the same thing but now make it lose. I made the same mistake and saw that went from 16psi to 13 ishh psi then turned it the right way around now making little over 17psi
I’m wondering if this will help fix my 07’ 335i going into limp mode only when it idols…seems to be fine as long as I keep the RPM’s high? Anyone got any suggestions???
Hi hope your well. I have done some good repairs/service thanks to your excellent videos. Now I'm tackling my waste gate rattle on rear turbo I using the same tools as u did but for life of me cant crack open the 10mm locknut now iv even taken off the undertray and tried from below with no joy. I'm on day two of trying to crack nut open. But I have just realized your car is a left hand drive. I'm in the uk and have steering rack in way😥 what a plonker I am.
Hello and Thank you for your video. I have a 2009 BMW 335i that has the waste gate rattle. I did what you said in the video and the rattle noise is gone.
Thanks for your video guidenss. Brilliant video and most appreciated. I did the adjustment today on rear actuator arm. Needed to cut all the spanners 4, 4.5 and 10mm since mine is a RHD in Hong Kong, steering column was right in the way. Taping a few inches of electrical wire to the tiny spanners helped a tonne too as is was too easy to drop the spanners, the taped on wire helped with manipulation of the tiny little things. I did 3 turns.
@@nicholasherbst4661 seriously. It turns out my nut just won't budge. Using a cut 10mm on my RHD. Sprayed it with some wd40 and still nothing. Just can't get it to loosen and don't wanna break anything so had to quit.
Slacken the locknut, tighten rod as much as you can by hand then give it 2-3 turns with a spanner, tighten locknut, thats it. Its the same for all turbos, any further rattling is due to worn wastegate bush/shaft.
I just installed pure stage 1 turbos in my 135i and it’s got a horrible rattle right off the bat. So I diagnosed my wastegates with the vacuum canisters and finnaly determined that it is in fact my rear turbo wastgate. I’m completely stuck and depressed. I’ve spent around 4000 in parts and now I have the rattle. I’m going to try this but if this doesn’t work, idk what to do. My mods are: Pure stage 1 turbos Catless vrsf downpipes Jb4 7” vrsf intercooler
Thanks for his video. I get a 30ff code when i go into WOT I just replaced all vac lines, someone said this might be my issue. Out of curiosity, you are just shortening the arm correct? Bc for me too, at the point my car may not be fully shutting the wastegate and that’s what may be causing my boost codes - would you agree that could likely be the problem?
I've got the rattle, and the car pulled great. Just the other day I was driving slowly in town, and limp mode. Rough idle when stopped. Turned off the car and restarted, no limp mode. Cars fine again, so I thought.. After an hour of driving I floored it and got limp mode again. Turned off car and restarted, again, no limp mode. Drives fine again. I have no idea what's going on with my car, do you? 2007 335i e92. 94k miles.
You'd definitely have a code stored in memory for what triggered limp mode. See if you can get the codes pulled, even if you don't have a check engine light on there would be code stored.
Did you get it sorted? I get the occasional limp mode for boost leak and it's caused by my waste gates as mine rattle like fuck but I'm also modified and can't do this DIY because my steering column is in my way...
n54's are high maintence cars, most likely either your spark plugs, or coils. Only way to know is with codes. If cylinder code swap coils, or plugs to find the issue, if none of those most likely injectors. Check for oil in the plug well, maybe you have leaking valve cover gasket causing misfires due to oil. If not a cylinder related problem, you have to diagnose via code, could be a few things. Vano's, boost leak, vacuum leak etc. You also may need a good intakr valve cleaning, if theyre too dirty these cars misfire. These cars you need to either be able to maintain yourself, or get ready to spend alot on maintence, if you want it to run 100% all the time.
With your help I just did this and the rattle is much quieter but it still persists. I probably got 2 full rotations on the adjuster bolt. Can I keep adjusting it to see if it will go away completely without affecting anything else negatively? Thanks!
Yes as long as you make sure that you still have a few threads left going into the arm. What happens over time is you eventually run out of room to adjust it any further then the turbos need to come out to change out the bushing but if you still have some threads remaining in the rod and you're sure it won't come undone then yes you can adjust a bit more but proceed with caution.
Vehicular DIY Is there anyway of knowing if the rear turbo is still making the rattle. Ex: have someone get a long screwdriver and put pressure on the flapper arm?
So once i make the 10mm nut loose and use the 4mm or 4.5mm to rotate it 2 or 2 and a half times after that do i tighten back up the 10mm or does it tighten by itself when ur rotating the other nut. Thanks man. Let me know asap
@@AndreaMuruPizzachef yes , i remove it on first workshop , then bring to workshop who replace wastgates then to first workshop to place turbos on car all costs 350 eur and car runs better and no this fcking noise
I've been driving for a year or so with wastegate rattle slowly getting worse on my N54. Took it to the garage to get sorted after a drive on the highway and got some Vanos error codes popup. The garage has misdiagnosed the wastegate rattle for the timing chain/vanos and wants me to spend £2000 on replacing it. How can they get it soooo wrong????
Thank you for this video, i have a 2013 n55 e92 with 42k miles and im getting this sound i know low mile right crazy. Mines is so low it sounds like a heat shield rattle. Mines don't rattle at idle only on acceleration and letting off at about 2k rpm. So i checked it the arm seem to be loose on the actuator side not the door side. Very little play maybe one turn to tighten it up.
The bushing in the exhaust housing that the actuator arm moves in gets worn out over time. The tightening helps take up some of the slack but eventually they'll need to be replaced.
Vehicular DIY I've got the wastegate problem now and I'm looking for a cheap fix. sad that this will be costly. thanks for the video and thanks for the reply buddy
Did this work for you? I have 07 335i and the dealer says to just let it rattle and that it's common and to deal with the rattle... I was wondering if it did work, how's it holding up, etc? Thanks! Might do this on Sunday! Great vid
i know this videos 5 yr old and you probably won’t see this comment but my n54 is making low boost and a terrible rattle, will this help me or do i need new turbos?
Thank you for this video. I have a 2007 E92 335i and my car recently went into full time limp mode, the car is making pretty much no boost whenever I drive it. I noticed on cold starts there is extremely pronounced wastegate rattle, and I was thinking this could be the cause of my issue. Is it possible that this adjustment could help the wastegates seal correctly and bring me out of limp mode? Thanks again
Hey when the car went into full limp mode how were you driving it? Does it run rough while it's in limp mode? That would be a sign that the ECU shut off an injector. Do you have INPA setup on your computer? There would be useful codes stored in the ECU with regards to what is prompting the limp mode. I don't think wastegates being out of adjustment would cause the ECU to be stuck in limp mode. BTW I've seen a couple of your videos, great job on your channel! I'd be happy to help you figure this out.
Vehicular DIY thank you so much for the compliment and help man! Means a lot! Anyway, i was able to fix it, it turned out one of the vacuum lines which runs from the boost canisters and leads under the engine cover was cracked open and disconnected im assuming from heat corrosion. For now i used some ducktape to fasten it back on, but im gona replace the hose with a silicone one hopefully so it can withstand the engine heat better
I can’t stand that rattle I just bought it lol. I’m going to attempt this as a temporary fix until I can find a cheap place to get them rebuilt. Hopefully my mechanic friend is willing to help me remove them lmao . So basically loosen the bolt and tighten the rod but not too tight ? Is that right ? Sorry
great work !have u had 30FF code before or just the rattle?I got the 30FF during every 1k km recently and planning to change the vacuum line first (have the rattle too),my tech said they can fix it by renewing the WG rather than a turbo replacement (which gonna be the final fix from BMW i guess).
and VDIY one more question , in case of the adjustment is there any risk that you overtighten WG and it won topen when it should ?have you adjusted the front turbo WGAarm too?thanks
If the rod has some slack can this affect your turbo spool? I just started having some weird issues with my n54 i get a random light pop up while im hitting high boost
im just getting rattle now on light throttle though about 2500rpm .. wierd deep loud exhuast groan too when car reaches about 100c goes normal...rattle sounds horible though
i just got my turbos replaced at the dealer on my 2008 135i and it had wastegate rattle when letting off the gas as soon as i got it back, first the guy told me that the oem mitsubishi turbos that i provided are not oem and that garrett and honeywell made the oem turbos and when i told him that the actuator arm was likely not adjusted properly ( i could reach in and wiggle it with my hand he said firstly they are not adjustable, then after i told him that countless people have fixed the problem i have by adjusting the actuator rod with a wrench, he said the adjustment will only make a difference on electronically controlled wastegates and not vacuum powered ones even though my turbos look exactly like the one in this video, is this guy a serial liar? please help
are the turbos to the left side of the engine or the right? i think its on the left, correct me if im wrong. also, can you access both wastegate shafts from the top or do you have to get under the car to fix the other turbo? prepping myself for this as i want to give it a shot on the weekend..
Im in the UK so for me it was on the driver side. The sad thing is that for us, the steering column is in the way. I got under the car and took the sub frame out. took everything out, front bumper, all the radiators, air conditioning you name it. Even then it was incredibly hard to take the turbos off. I got them eventually. Right now the turbos are with a company that will refurbish them. I dont know how im going to put the car back together again but its going to be one mammoth task.
Ah well now that you're in that far consider replacing the oil pan gasket as preventive maintenance. You've already removed everything that is in the way.
+aibel99 I'm in the USA, just mine and it was a pain in the but especially not having no help. I took.out subframe also but did it first without a crossbar, that was a big no no because engine was on Jack and it lowered down and screw up lining up frame. so i had to get a crossbar with helped out a lot. I drilled out pins which was a nightmare breaking lots of bits and a welder put new arm on. I didn't remove bumper, radiator. anyone who's doing this use a crossbar engine support from the start and drop subframe well save you lots of trouble
+Vehicular DIY I have to go back in there in couple weeks to do rear main oil seal. did my suspension also which was a nightmare cause spring needs to compress so far maybe because of the sport suspension
hey man i think i made a mistake. i turned the rod clockwise 2.25 revs instead of counterclockwise. Should I do 4.50 revs counterclockwise or just leave it? I am still getting limp mode on WOT. appreciate any help
What I want to know is there a way we can do the same thing for the front turbo? The rear one was easy, but my front one makes me not even want to drive the car, sounds horrible! I seen the threads for the front one, but don't know if it's a way to get to it.
You can do this to the front turbo, but it's nearly impossible unless you have the engine out of the car. The consensus way to fix the front rattle applying this same concept is to shim the wastegate bracket with a couple of washers where it attaches to the compressor housing of the turbo. You can get to it from the front of the car without major disassembly. Worked on my 535i. Google it... there’s a good writeup in one of the forums.
I just got my 335xi 07 a few days ago and mine is just now starting to make this noise. I just wanted to know if I did this fix how long would it last. and also I wanted to know if the noise would get worse and worse if I dont do anything.
I've only just done it when it was barely starting to make any noise. Not a lot of mileage on my turbos. From what I've read you can do this a few times before you'll run out of adjustment on the rod. I'd suspect that the noise would get worse up to a point. Eventually the waste gate won't be able to close and you'll get a code for low boost.
Aveman1 so it will get worse and worse over time if I keep fixing it like you did? are the parts to permitly fix this expensive, or is the only thing I need to buy is a new wastegage ?
id really appreciate your help , if you could point me in the right direction. im getting a 30fc code and i don't hear the turbos spooling at all . i changed all the vacuum lines, and boost solenoids, but still no luck. my car did have a wastegate rattle a long time ago until i modified my exhaust. what else can i do, will playing with this wastegate arm help?
@@VehicularDIY I can't say for sure I'm not getting any boost. When I WOT in first gear the system goes into limp mode before it hits 2nd. I've paid for carly, and I have mhd I'm not sure what to log
@@VehicularDIY turns out my stock intercooler had a nice thick layer of crap. I cleaned it out and now the boost is back to normal, but I've got a turbo siren now :/
I hear a rattle only on warm start and it goes away after 10-15 seconds. I dont hear it at all on a cold start or while im driving. not sure if this is the turbos or not.
Went I touch the rod the sond stop completely I can move it a bit with my hand and i hear the sond too and my ratel nose is really small and the west gate is supposed to be new
Shinko666 i have just had turbos reconditioned and its got rattle on the adjustment arm... hopefully this fix stops it as the were properly reconditioned and we're basically brand new
I let it soak in some CRC Rust Off .. however when I spin the nut it seems it spins the whole rod. I think I managed to get it a little tighter but would like a little more. More CRC and hope it looses? ahhhh... Holding the rod while turning the nut seems kind of hard.. no space No rattle on acceleration now.. but on decel there is still a little bit you can hear when the road is next to a concrete wall etc.
I feel u man. I felt the same way. I got to test drive a is F and i was like man im selling this pos. But i got downpipes and tuned and i like the pos again haha
Hahaha.. Takes 20minutes to do if you have decent tools. If you're worried about turning wrenches on these cars, I suggest buying something SBC powered or get deep enough pockets to pay someone else to do it.
I’m wondering if this will help fix my 07’ 335i going into limp mode only when it idols…seems to be fine as long as I keep the RPM’s high? Anyone got any suggestions???
