@@StevenBTuner Well, in my N47 engine, the coolant temperature goes to 97-98 deg. Celsius at idle and it drops to 60 deg. when driving (outside temp. is 0 deg. Celsius). Brand new water pump, thermostat, temperature sensor, coolant + seals. Maybe it is normal but I wanted to see the oil temp. too. No codes though. :D
Hi, that is not normal, and not ideal. At 60 degrees your engine ECU will think your car is cold the whole time, resulting in poor fuel economy, as well as your DPF never regenerating.
@@StevenBTuner Yeah, but no codes stored ... Got the car diagnosed twice by a BMW guru. And all is new in the engine bay, DPF clean etc. Maybe because the block is aluminium and doesn't hold temperature that well?
This is a great upload buddy. Really helped me out where similar videos haven’t tought me anything at all. Thanks. I need to do a force regeneration and need the temp displayed. One thing I’m not sure about is. How do you get a desired digital reading to stay showing whilst driving pls buddy. ??
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad you got some good information out of it! The hidden menu is really only for diagnostic troubleshooting purposes, so it isn't really designed to 'do' anything. For forcing a regeneration then a good scanning tool like the Autel AP200 is needed. For displaying things like speed or temperature continuously requires re-coding, which may be possible with something like Bimmercode (I'll have to check if it can be done for the E90).
Steven B. Tuner I actually can’t enter anything after selecting 19,..I put the total of my last 5 vin numbers and leave it once I hit 27. And it just goes off back to normal dash. I don’t have a clue what’s wrong. Maybe Ecu fault. 🤷🏻♂️.
Hi, it is a very clunky interface, so anything not done exactly perfectly or not exactly at the perfect time till send you back to normal, as you have found out. I suggest trying the steps a few more times (like I did, but edited out) as it is fairly unlikely that the instrument cluster has failed just in this way, but works normally otherwise.
Hi, thanks for watching! These hidden menu items are really only for emergency diagnosis when you don't have an ODBII scanner with you and you really need to know the temperature or voltage etc. A couple of them can be 'coded' in so that they will be permanently displayed, but that is the topic of a very different vid.
I found that very useful apart from the final part - code 21. That was particularly unhelpful. You didn't explain how to get out of these menus - now I'll have to look at someone else's video to check.
Fuel sensor OHMs should be max 450 anything higher means the fuel sensor may be broken from what I’ve been reading online in this video yours were very high. Does anyone have any input or information to share on this? I’m looking to fix my fuel sensor issue all information is greatly appreciated.
@@StevenBTuner yeah because everywhere I’m seeing online says they should be 450 OHMs but yours were like 800-900 in the video. I’m very curious if that’s false information because I’m assuming your fuel sensors were working fine at the time of recording that video?
Hi, you'll have to look it up in the workshop manual if you want the exact temperature - but almost all BMW cars are designed to run at 95 - 98 degrees Celcius, 203 - 208 degrees Fahrenheit.
steven, can't connect my bluetooth with my phone in 2010 bmw which couldn't find phone in menu and but there is phone logo and blutooth logo in stiring wheel too. any option???? please
Hi, thanks for watching! That kind of an issue can be a bit tricky to diagnose as there can be a whole range of issues on the phone itself that can effect things - like power saving apps and settings etc. After verifying that it isn't the phone, then you will need to connect a good diagnostic unit to the car to see if there are any error messages - I recommend an Autel AP200 or better, as it will need to be able to interrogate all of the BMW modules and read BMW specific error codes, not just the standard SAE codes.
By any chance do you know if those little screens can be fixed or replaced or you actually need to change the whole odometer if the sun burns it and you only can see the number and letters partially
Hi, your car should stay between 86 and 96 degrees celcius most of the time when it is driving. It might go briefly below when it is freezing outside, or go briefly above when driving hard in the middle of summer.
@@StevenBTuner Hi Steven! I see, thank you for the quick feedback. I’ll go get it checked. My ventilation was repaired previously, maybe they did a bad job.
@@StevenBTuner thanks for the video!!! I live in az and its hotter then the devils bhole here. I was getting 107F. Its 102F outside. ? Any ideas would be appreciated
@@kohutch55 Hi, you live in a hot place alright! That temperature doesn't too far out if your car has been sitting outside and hasn't been running for a number of hours.
Steven B. Tuner you’re a very clever guy. Have you ever seen “ breaking bad” ? You remind me of Walter White. He plays a science teacher. A total genius. The dpf video was great. I’m having problems with my car. Think I bought it when everything had started to pack up. I think he knew that and kinda ripped me off. 🥴🥴. Costing me a fortune. I’ve subscribed by the way. 👍👍
Haha, Walter White eh? I might be in the wrong business! ;-) Unfortunately there are not many folk who look at their car and say to themselves: "What a great car. Everything works perfectly. I think I'll sell it!". Cost of ownership has been pretty well studied over the years, so if you were being 100% driven by economics then you would buy a car at around 5 or 6 years old and then sell it before it got to 10 years, that way you don't get too badly hit by depreciation, and also don't end up spending more on fixing the car than it's worth. If you keep a car over 10 year's old it really can only be because you really really like it :-)
