This just saved me having to go to the main stealer for a battery replacement recoding. Built it a few months back to diag a fault and today I used it to reprogram the ecu for a new battery install. It saved me over £120 and 3 hours to get to the main stealer and back :). Thank you!!!
Technically, the Server Switching power supply module is not a power supply it is a preregulator, hence its low cost. The server motherboard will take this noisy raw supply voltage and regulate it down to be used with the electronics. As a result, at high currents the supply will generate condisderable noise. The target for jump start post sustaining is 50mV p-p for a switching PS at worse case current condition. So you should use an oscilloscope to see what the server power supply is actually supplying in terms of voltage and current waveforms. If you take a closer look at the specs for a charger that claims is safe for reflashing see if the specs list a p-p noise fiqure at a current rating. Most do not. What is really needed is a slow increase in system voltage at the jump start posts, with a source that is as electrically quiet as the battery, and not a sudden voltage step as shown in the video. This step change is seen directly at the module inputs, and because applied at the jump start posts, is not filtered like if connected at the battery. Also, in a classical sense for charging, any connection to the vehicle for charging (sustaining) should be done with a nonsparking power off technique. In many vehicle service manual procedures chargers are not recommended for reflashing. All the chargers I have looked at that claim to have a sustainer function do not recommend using jump start posts and need to be directly connected at the battery. This is becuase many use noisy voltage switching techniques, which is fine for charging a stand-alone battery, but not reflashing from jump start posts. I use a linear PS and a home made rectifier (big diode with cooling fan) so I can set the supply low like 11.0 Volts, connect to the jump start posts (no step change and no current supplied, either forward or reverse) and slowly ramp up the voltage as I watch the supply current increase. What you will see is the classic constant voltage decreasing current profile as the battery starts to take a charge. In many cases, unless the battery is fully charged, a sustainer is actually putting a charge on the battery as it sustains the vehicle for reflashing. This is to be expected and is one reason why sustainer current requirements are so high, you may use 10 Amps just to charge the battery. The other reason is that after programming a module the setup/cal procedure may require actuating loads. When reflashing a module it is not executing strategy and should not require a large amount of current. What happens after programming and reset is usually a procedure to test functionality, which will in some cases actuate high current loads. Some may be very large like electric motor assist power steering or cooling fans. Another interesting result in supporting high currents with clamp at posts is that clamps are not that good at conducting large currents. How a toothed clamp attaches to a post is not that ideal of an electrical connection. A better approach, if you plan on keeping a vehicle or reflashing often, is to wire in a keyed connector pigtail with fuse to the posts underhood (with weatherproof sealed boots) or near the battery on the vehicle side of the current sensor in the trunk. This pin (barrel or wiper) connection is much lower resistance than a clamp and by using a keyed connector reverse polarity is eliminated, and you also eliminate the possibility that a clamp may spring loose during reflashing. There are many different OEM connector types that can handle 50 Amps (APP, Delphi, Deutsch, etc.).
Great video! Thanks for sharing with us!How about place a polyester capacitor in parallel with a ceramic capacitor with values as 10nFx100v and 10pfx100v between the positive and negative pole of the power supply when connecting it to the battery car? This will avoid the difference potential between the power supply voltage and the car battery problem that can cause a voltage spike (that cause that little smoke at about 7:25 when connected the negative pole of the power supply )and damage some module of the car in my humble opinion.
Complimenti Sei veramente FORTISSIMO, l'unica pecca avere un ITALIANO così preparato in questo campo che però non fa neanche un video in lingua madre 🇮🇹
Hello Francesco, I am building the DPS maintainer and need to know what wattage and tolerance is the 1K olm resistor???? Any recommendations for manufacturer of resistor??
Thank you for a great video, I got same model PSU and did exact same modification you described in this video and set it 14V, but today i measured the voltage it was 17V. Is it normal, any advice
Well done Francesco, great tutorial. Do you know maybe if I put two together paralell, that I can get out double of Amp’s, must bridge (if yes, which pin) them or not? Tnx
Hello, I have built this but with HP DPS-1200FB psu, everything is fine, I'm having 14.38v at idle not connected to the car, the psu is pretty warm even after running with no load, is this ok ?
ciao Francesco, grazie per i tuoi video, ho comprato il tuo stesso alimnetatore stessa sigla ma al momento della saldatura del componente interno e diverso dal tuo, mi sai dire vode l'hai comprato? grazie.
Gracias por la ayuda en hacerte tu propia fuente de alimentación. Pero no me gusta las transiciones entre imágenes que haces. Me mareo. Did you a 3d cover?
Do you know why my multimeter is showing over 18V? Followed along as the video but cant seem to adjust the voltage. Would it make a difference I used this resistor SNS 1K ohm 1/4 Watt Carbon Film Resistor 5% Tolerance
I had the same exact PSU and I sold it. The problem is 700W PSU with 14v will give about 50AMPS. On F series BMW recommends 70+ amps or 60+ amps, I don`t remember. Right now I built another few weeks ago, an HP DPS-1200FB HSTNS-PD11. Therefore at 1200W and 14.3V I`m getting 80+ amps. Although the same PSU as yours worked perfectly on 10+ cars, I don`t want to risk, as something I`m flashing whole car, not only HU. FYI, to find the Amps from a source, do this. wattage of the PSU divided by the voltage set and you get the amps. The HP DPS-1200FB is so quiet, that last night I forgot it turned on and didn`t realised. Paid 12GBP for it and is amazing. I'm looking to put it in a old toolbox, with a screen DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD screen to show me the Voltage, Current, Power and Energy measurements in one combo. Also, for the turn on jumper I used a rocket switch (on / off) to not start directly when is plugged to the power. That switch will be integrated to the toolbox :D Maybe is a good idea for you as well, but this HP 1200W is much smaller, much stronger and quiet as anything, you can't hear it if you are next to it. Happy programming!!
Hi there, that's a very useful comment! Looking to build my own voltage stabilizer too, I can get a hp DPS-1200FB relatively cheap here in the Netherlands. Noticed there are some different Versions like pd19, 1a, does it matter which one I take? Also does it require any modifications like shown in this video? If so could you help me with guiding me in the right direction?
Big like to that. Is it realy needed one of them while coding? Even if you are doing like small coding for a few minutes? Thanks for sharing that with us Francesco!!!!
I can get a 750w 60A power supply from a dell r510. Do I still need to change the voltage from 12v to 14v? Or would it work without modifying the voltage?
Ciao Francesco, io ho il modello DPS-750PB A, che è simile a quello del video ...ma aprendolo è diverso. Ho il modo di utilizzarlo per lo scopo? Grazie per la risposta.
@@FrancescoGalante91 I bypassed the OVP a different way but had to use 680R resistor because the voltage dropped to 12v. Now I have 13,7 which is fine for me. So thanks for this video!!
Ottimo tutorial, però i cavi invece che saldarli sarebbe stato meglio bloccarli con dei morsetti, al passaggio di correnti così elevate scaldano e lo stagno potrebbe fondere assieme alla colla a caldo
Did the flashing actually take 7h??? As in you clicked Start and it took 7h to finish??? 😲 Or does it mean you went through several flashing sessions 7h in total?
Can you sell me one please? I need to flash the ECU modules in my BMW and i don't want to spend 300-400 euro in a big professional charger or buy from Aliexpress etc. I'm in Europe so it'd be easy for you to send it.
BMW programming is a very risky activity on such a power supply. The manufacturer recommends a current of about 70 amperes. The actual consumption of course strongly depends on the configuration of the car and what we have in this case may be enough for some cars.
