@@Sequel7 Hi MJ, Usually for this vehicle timing chain stretch and sprocket wear causes the timing chain to jump time. But if just the exhaust was out a tiny bit then it may be from the factory that way. If it was off a lot then most likely jumped time. If timing is good and you have a vanos fault it can me the vanos unit, central bolt , or Actuator. Also if the oil filter center insert is missing you can get vanos faults.
I know the cams and pickup rings have to be set and locked... Does it matter the marks on the vano (cam sprockets) if you forget to mark them before removal?????
awesome videos never saw details and professional video as yours, i am saying this out of mechanic opinion not just person who is trying to fix his own car. i wish you all the best
If you're only adjusting the timing, do you need to remove the chain tensioner? On the N43, the central VANOS bolts are one-time-use only so they'll have to be replaced. I'm just thinking if the tensioner is still in place, the VANOS bolts removed, would that push the VANOS gears making it difficult to put the new bolts in? Thanks.
Hello MartiansChronicle, There is a work around for removing the tensioner. You can carefully depress it to release the oil pressure and this relieves some tension on the chain when doing timing. Or to be safe back it out most of the way to release some tension.
Thanks for the video. I’m doing the timing on my 2016 mini clubman. It looks very similar to what I’m dealing with. This will be my 3rd time trying to get the timing correct. My timing kit doesn’t come with a locking plate. I may not need it, but not sure. If you have any experience with the B36/B38 engine, I’d appreciate your opinion.
Does it matter how the Vanos unit itself is installed? I see that aftermarket Vanos units come with some line marking near IN/EX. In other videos I’ve seen them installed both pointing up. Is there a direction to install these Vanos units? @AskTheCarExperts
Great Question. No it does not matter for the unit itself. It is infinitely adjustable within its range. The Cam phaser install does matter though and the timing tools with the phaser tool must be used.
I recently did a timing chain replacement and brought the car back to life, but now I am getting codes: 130F20, 130E20, 120408 and miss fires in cylinders 2 and 3. I reset the codes and had the vanos relearn the new chain. Now I have codes: 164040, 164041, 120408, and the misfires (no rough idle anymore) I followed a different video before I found this one, and they torqued the sprockets first before they put the tensioner on. So I believe my timing is off, my question is do I have to do the whole process again (remove engine mount, oil pan, take off Jesus bolt, etc.) or can I just readjust the camshaft sprockets the correct way? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for this Great informational video. On my N20 the plunger on the VANOS central valve bolt is broken. Therefor the actuator is not pressing on anything. Would it be possible to remove that bolt with the plunger without having to remove the valve cover and having to set up the timing chain lock ? I’d appreciate if you can reply to me. Thanks
Sorry for the late reply. No the timing will not be set if the bolt is broken. You will need to remove the valve cover and set the vehicle up in TDC and set full timing for this failure.
I think my timing is off after a rebuild due to low compression but my timing tools fit correctly Crank no start Cylinder 1: 90 psi Cylinder 2: 85 psi Cylinder 3: 85 psi Cylinder 4: 90 psi Is it possible that the intake side Is bottom dead center. I purchased the used n20 head and openly admit to turning the cams to remove carbon and clean it before install. No leaks or noises ; all or o-rings gaskets have been changed
Hello, You should be able to tell if your timing is off just with the timing tools and verifying TDC and the cam locations with the crank pin. I did run into a car that showed low compression on a new engine but it was just from it not being run in a while and once it was fired up it was good.
Have you ever torn into a VANOS unit to see if it's possible to thoroughly clean one and examine it for excessive wear? I see a lot of people just replacing them, but damn they are stupidly expensive. Are the VANOS units like a tape measure or a tube of toothpaste? If I pop the screws out and pull the cover off will the very thick spring go 'boinnnnng', slap me in the face like pulling the nut off a McPherson strut assembly and totally ruin my day? I had one of the notorious N26 failures for both the chain guides and oil pump so my motor was full of metal glitter. Darn near the only thing I didn't replace was the VANOS units or the solenoids. The solenoids were very easy to rebuild, but I just ultrasonically cleaned the VANOS units, oiled them and reused them with all new OEM timing set. Now I have a good running engine with almost a dozen codes for VANOS issues. Performed re-calibration tests with ISTA and still get errors. Ran some ISTA tests and they never are set to what the DME expects and wont adjust fast enough.
Hello, I have seen the VANOS units come apart when the bolts holding them together either walk out or the heads break off. I think they are keyed internally but this is not something that has a repair procedure. On N51 N52 vehicles the dealers would replace just the bolts on some VANOS units. They have to be replaced one at a time and cannot exceed a specific torque and torque angle. Sorry to hear your N26 had the timing chain issue. Make sure you have the insert in the oil filter. If that is missing you can get VANOS faults but you may need to replace the VANOS units with new parts. Hopefully your engine is running clean and the metal glitter ( aluminum shavings) have all be cleared out.
All the way in Florida, Getting code 130e20 and the timing chain was done a few months ago. I am thinking of swapping the vanos solenoids to see if the issue happens in the exhaust side as well, anything else that you can recommend @askthecarexperts?
@@AskTheCarExperts Worst case scenario, would I have to remove the valve cover , use the tool to lock the vanos units, remove bolt, check if its in good shape? If its in good shape and its not the bolt and the solenoid. Would I have to just redo the timing as instructed in the video? Typically what causes this code even after doing all this work?
@user-qu1ps4sj6u This code could be a timing error, bad vanos unit, bad central vanos bolt, or actuator. Swap the actuator, if same, check timing, if timing is off correct timing, if ok replace the vanos unit and bolt. Also make sure you are using and OE oil filter and the center cage is not missing.
Great video. May I ask if i change the timing chain for N20 BMW 320i do i need to need to take off oil pan to lock the balance shaft. I just want to change the timing chain only. Thanks.
Hello, Thanks bud! Yes, this would normally be done with the engine still installed. I don't own a BMW with the N20 at this time but I did have an engine swap on hand to make the video.
Hello, Thank you for subscribing. To replace the central bolts timing should be set up correctly and held in place. For the smaller electronic actuators those you can swap without doing any timing.
Could you explain how to pull out and clean/replace the VANOS solenoids themselves? My diagram says they are behind the actuators. Can I just pull them out without having to do anything else? If so, what is the process. I am getting code P13C9.
Hello, On an N20 the solenoids are the central bolts that hold the VANOS units in place. To remove them timing tools have to be set up. Normally if I get a VANOS code and it is not the actuators I would remove the valve cover and inspect the timing chain and check the timing. I have a video on how to check the timing and set the timing which includes removing the central bolt.
Hi, Is it normal for the intake cam gear to skip forward a little bit then jump back as you are are rotating the engine?? I have a N26 that does that after I replaced the gear on that side. Timing remains perfect when I come back to TDC and check with the tool but I was worried about this. So I reinstalled the old one and it does the exact same thing!? At 26:55 you only show a second or two of rotating the engine 2 times so can't tell from this video.
Apologies, meant to say Ex side that is skipping, not intake but either way your answer surprises me. I would have thought that indicates a problem internally. I'm gonna try one more replacement and if happens on that one then I will keep it and put it all back together.
Hello :) The N20 is a great engine and can be a lot of fun to work on. Glad I was able to help with my video :) I need to get a vehicle with an N20 so I can make more videos! LOL
Hi Zunaid, P0012 Is intake Cam position, P 0015 is exhaust position, P0172 is too rich. You may have a timing issue but also make sure your oil filter insert is not missing.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks for the reply. I'm also getting codes 130308, 120408, 133B04, 133E10, 130108. is it possible the valve tronic motor not working
ok so This may be a dumb question and Im a newb but I am replacing my chain... Upon tryin to set the engine in tdc, the exhaust cam is about 15 Degrees off. Obviously out of time and the chain did jump and stretch (typical) but how do I line the cam back up into time so I can put on the TDC special tool? Thanks for your videos I am learning a ton....
Hi Matt, That is a very good question. You will need to hold the camshaft with a wrench and release the central bolt of the vanos. You can then move the camshaft the difference you need to the TDC position for the tool using a wrench on the camshaft.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks for the quick reply, but continuation of the question. If I do that for both of the cam shafts, should I put the pin in the plate first to insure it’s tdc? The reason I ask is it seems when I moved the intake cam to what appears to be tdc (barcode lined up) that the piston was no were near tdc. Which then confuses me of how I set both cams and know it’s tdc? I get the vanos will adjust its self to the sensors but how do I make perfectly sure the plate to the crank to the cams are all perfectly in time?
Great content!! Do you HAVE to lock the crank to just replace the vanos gears? Im replacing the exhaust vanos on a 2011 n52 engine and was wondering if its ok to just mark the crank pulley and just lock the cams. That would eliminate the need to take out the intake plenum and the starter etc…
@@AskTheCarExperts If you reach TDC and try to lock the camshaft but, as you show in your video, you can't lock the exhaust camshaft because the 2 holes on the bridge are slightly out, is it still safe to remove the exhaust VANOS bolt even though you have not locked the crankshaft with the pin?
Hi Scott, Sorry for the delay. Can you give me more details on your problem. Is this with a new chain installed? Best to contact me via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com
Thanks, Rockin’ Roger! Super detailed instruction 👍🏻 Would you recommend installing a new tensioner while doing this job? Can you send me Zion’s email account so I can test his N20 knowledge?? Good boy, Z!!! 🐶
Hey bud! It was your comment that made me think to add Zion into the video :) Good question for the timing chain tensioner...I have yet to see on go bad and I have not been replacing them when doing chain and guide replacements. But for that extra peice of mind if it was my car I would put a new one in when replacing the chain and guide.
Nice video, as usual! I have yet to do any VANOS unit replacements on the N20 engines, but it's nice seeing that the process is very straightforward. It would be awesome if you did a N54 video!
Hi AK! How is the Alaskan weather? It is finally getting a bit warmer here. I will definitely keep an eye out to get my hands on one! I am enjoying sharing this info. I want to do a lot more videos on a whole bunch of topics :)
@@AskTheCarExperts We keep getting a mix of spring and winter here. One day might be sunny and 50°, but the next day might be snowy and 15°. Or be like today where it’s 33°, foggy, and raining. I’d love to make more videos too, but as I’m sure you are already aware - incredibly time consuming. I’ve got stuff in the queue that spans back at least a year. I appreciate the time you take to make these videos and look forward to every one you post up. 👍
@@AskTheCarExperts I put a couple of short ones up tonight for an old 90s Ford F-150 I did some work on a while back. I’ve also got a video in the pipeline for troubleshooting a no crank which lead to a starter replacement on a BMW E61. At some point I’ll also have one on replacing the rear hatch hydraulic actuator on the same car. I just need to find time to edit the videos. I’ve also been so swamped that I haven’t been able to get footage of the stuff I’ve worked on recently. Such a shame too, because a few of them have been electrical diagnostic jobs that the other shops in my town couldn’t figure out.
Greatly appreciate the vid I just did the whole kit + turbo on an x drive ooooboy. Now my intake Vanos is going crazy. It’ll start at 0 deg and end up at -60 deg then sets a camshaft jammed code and shuts off the turbo. I’ll pulled the valve cover twice, swapped bolts, solenoid and sensors Timing is dead on with tools. So now I’m suspecting the cam phaser is locking and not letting go. Exhaust Vanos bounces around 0deg. I’m beyond heartbroken. Bought the car with bad turbo and knowing it would eventually need a chain. Before 100% of the time the car would go in limp mode due to low turbo pressure so I’m thinking the phaser never actuated much past base timing so it didn’t show Vanos fault then. On to find a low mileage intake cam gear and try again
Hi JH! Thanks for watching and commenting. This has been a fun project. Sorry to hear about your BMW issue. It does sound like a VANOS unit since you swapped the central valve. Sounds like you already put in a lot of time but it is worth it to help diagnose the issue. Quick side not would be to make sure your center insert in the oil filter is present. If missing this can cause some odd issues.
Thanks I bit the bullet and took the cam phasers off and apart but unfortunately nothing stood out other than some wear 180k worth. Oil pressure is good 36psi hot idle, center is in filter cap, I’ve seen something about a dme flash but don’t know. Center bolts spool both move the same amount. I’ll keep digging I guess. Worst part is the dang vac pump.
@@AskTheCarExperts Well the Vanos codes are gone-- As I looked further the OE phasers had all of play inside of them and possible leaking oil pressure from one side of the vanes to the other causing the phasers to not adjust correctly. Second item was when I took the exh center bolt apart I found the little metal ring that guides the little filter had come loose and was possibly blocking oil or pressure to the exh phaser.. Got a set of low mileage phasers and bolts, installed them with timing tools, reset all adaptations, and now left with a only a low boost code that I'm chasing.. Thanks to you and your videos I had a better understanding of the system....Thanks
So, I had just finished the same job on my 2012 528i N20 . The engine started great, sounds very good and idles pretty smooth. However, I am getting the following codes and I’d appreciate all the help! 131401 VANOS, exhaust, cold start: not controllable. 130304 VANOS, exhaust control fault, camshaft jammed. 131501 VANOS, intake, cold start: not controllable. 120408 Charging pressure control, deactivation: Pressure build-up blocked. They are all intermittent. Can someone help?
@@AskTheCarExperts no sir but I am considering that now that I am getting 130F20 code and no longer the Vanos codes. Other than locking camshaft tool and TDC tool, do I need to do anything else to replace both gears?
@@AskTheCarExperts it can’t be timing chain stretch, everything is brand new with the exception of the vanos unit and central bolts, I span the engine at least 14 times to make sure my timing is good before I buttoned everything up and it is on every mark every time!
Got a question... I need some help! I'm in the process of doing the timing chain n oil module replacement! I fixed my timing on my exhaust side just like you did in the video. It was a little off but man couldn't get no adjustable wrench in there. Think I used a 7/8 wrench and made it work at a angle. Would you recommend a certain size or special tool? Can't get in there with a adjustable wrench. But that's not the question I have. I have everything taken off now. Got it at TDC but when I was was trying to get the oil module at TDC as in the fcpeuro videos. Says to turn clockwise n should hear a click or so but I never heard anything so I just kept turning n turning. Never did hear anything it just spun n spun. So I just lined up the holes and used the specialty tool n took the oil module off. So how do inknow if its in the right spot? I used that little tool. I'm sure you know what I mean. I just don't wanna put it all back together n the oil module nit be in the correct spot. If you could help I would appreciate it so much. By the way this is one heck of a job in the yard on ramps n a engine support bar but I got it all torn down! Thanks for the videos.
The good news is that the oil pump is not timed to the engine timing. It's only a holder to torque the sprocket. Use the tool and when the shaft does not spin it is correct. There is no clicking. Hope this helps!
@@AskTheCarExperts thank you! I just figured that out yesterday. 1 more question? The 2 special oil pan bolts. I can't find a diagram to where they go exactly 😕. Don't want to put them in the wrong spot.
@@AskTheCarExperts the 2 oil pan bolts that have that special thread. Kinda like the high pressure fuel pump bolts. Fcp euro said something like the 2nd hole from the front and 3rd from the back. I'm just confused on the exact location. Said if you don't have those 2 in the correct location it could cause a oil leak.
@@robertconklin502 can you give me the part number of the kit you have or the bolts you ordered. You can send me pictures through my website www.askthecarexperts.com
Great video. In fact there there is one lingering question. On my n20 the LOCK pin never really goes in flush. Flywheel doesn't move and is about a 1/4 inch to the elbow of the pin. Is that the typical fit? And are there other holes the flexplate has that could account for and error 131501 after a solenoid change?
Hello Tino, The N20 I believe only has one hole but you can get caught on a flywheel seem and not timing correct. One trick is to shave the end of the tool slightly so it goes it easier. Also use a bore scope to check you are in the right spot. In addition if the timing is close you can use the cam bar codes to help identify when you are approaching the correct spot.
Do you what's the cause if you do everything but when u rotate it back to tdc it's off? Issue I'm having with my bmw 335 n55...only thing I didn't do was use the tool or break loose the tensioner figure it wasn't necessary if I can line everything up without it.
@@Swag.864 Ahh ok. I know some techs that don't touch the chain tensioner but I always back it out so it just applying a small amount of tension. The timing should still be correct. Can I ask what repair you performed? Did you touch the crank bolt during your repairs?
@AskTheCarExperts I was setting up timing cause it was off by a little...so did same steps to set timing. No I didn't mess with crank besides turn it to TDC to line up pin hole
@@Swag.864 Just slightly off is sometimes ok and normal. Like in my video the factory setting was actually a bit off. Are you able to apply some pressure to the cam to get the tool to drop in? Do you have any picture you can send me. You can email me by going to my website www.askthecarexperts.com and use the contact me tab
