Thank you for your detailed video I really appreciate it. I do have a question I have a 2012 bmw x1 That’s making the same rattling noise at the start .. I was wondering can I drive the car without harming it with that rattle ?
and by the way! a very important Tip for all N20 PWG owners: if you need a new manifold you can buy the turbo from N26 with electronic waste gate and just put your pneumatic wast gate on it, you just need to drill 10mm hole in the arm and to adjust it.
I've been subscribed for a couple months now and I can really see the quality of your videos going up. Thanks for posting and keep it up. I've seen so many forums posts with confused people on the wastegate rattle and how expensive it is to fix at the dealer.
You that man! Thank you for the time you take to make these super useful videos for BMW owners, always straight to the point! You and Vehiclular DYI much respect, similar in the teachings but always dropping valuable knowledge! Keep them coming..... You should do some vids on the trunk's tension springs left and right sides and the differences of what each does, vids on the Turbo Boost selenoid, how to properly do a coolant flush and should you use the special bmw blue coolant or the one time Waterless Coolant and maybe also vids on the best error free interior LED lighting on bmw's!
Thank you so much for your comment and watching! I will look into the suggestions and see what videos I can make and what applies best for my car. I especially like the error free interior LED as I haven't thought of that!
12:36 you must change the position of the bolt clamp that is keeping the catalytic and exhaust manifold in a lower position in near future, the waste gate when is open is getting very close to the bolt and sometimes is not getting the right movement.
Just did this to my 528xi like had an extra turbo from another swap I did awhile back so I swapped the whole turbo. Just have to drill the hole on the arm for the wast gate a little to make it fit since the replacement turbo had an electronic waste gate. A lot quieter now
I had to drill it out also and now that I think about it, I should have done the turbo as well, but too late now. If I start feeling like the turbo is failing, I might swap it. Thanks for watching and so much better without the rattle!
Man your video was so helpful! My problem with my F10 n20 engine was coolant leak from the turbo coolant lines. I had to take out the whole turbocharger. I had no problems doing it with the help of your video! One issue I am facing is that 5 nuts of the manifold came out together with the screw and one nut&screw was even missing not put in place by a mechanic that changed the turbo earlier. I got all the parts but I don’t know the torque spec for the bolts for the manifold that go into the engine block (not the nuts that tighten the manifold but the bolts that go in first) and should they be lubricated with something in order to get locked. If you can help me with answer I would appreciate it! Keep up the good work!
Hello. I have a 100kkm N20 do basically i got this noise. As you say its only at startup. But is it gonna break anything or is it just the noise that bother you so you change it?
If it gets bad enough, correct. Mine was really bad as you can see in the video but it didn’t rattle after the engine was fully warmed up. It was very close, I believe.
Hello finally who has good and cheap solution to this Problem, thank you. But I habe another question: is there a seal between the manifold unit and the Turbocharger?
Great video man! Any tips for separating the exhaust manifold from the block I got everything unbolted and it seems to just be stuck to the block I tried to hit it with a 2x4 from above and below. Just to clarify its completely unbolted. (10 exhaust nuts/2 bots on the bottom bracket, cat v-band, and all the oil/coolant lines/waste gate actuator)
Welding it would work if it’s done right, however, if it’s as bad as mine was, the bushings for the actuator arm might also be in bad condition. If the weld isn’t done really well, can also fall off shortly after since it’s always under pressure. To me, it’s more of a ‘I’m buying some time’ solution rather than just replacing it. If it lasts 50k miles and I have to do it again, I can live with that. Thank you for watching!
Hey, great vid. I'm curious, what kind of mileage did your car have at the time of filming? My car is at 203,000km (126,000mi) I got my 320i (still N20) diagnosed at a BMW dealership for a similar sound on cold start and while driving - they located the noise to come from the wastegate actuator and the quote for a fix was over 3,700€ with a brand new turbo! I will surely be doing this job myself, with probably a rebuilt turbo & manifold for ~800€
Hi, thanks for watching! This turbo had 116000 miles on it at the time of filming as far as I can remember. Dealerships want a crazy amount of money for this type of work and mine has been perfectly fine since the video! Good luck with yours and let me know how it goes.
Hi, thanks for posting this video. Very insightful. I have a similar rattle but it doesn't go away even when the engine warms up. It is noticeable under acceleration. I've seen another post which may suggests rattles may come from the wastegate actuator which seems like an easier fix. I'm unsure whether it could also be this also and wanted your opinion.
If you have the pneumatic wastegate actuator you can try tightening it up a little bit to see if it helps. Otherwise, I don't see how it would make that noise.
Can this problem be causing the check engine light codes 120308 120408 121533 to turn on. Cause yes I’m having the same noise, I tried adjusting the wastegate and still having the noise issue. And also car feels boggy? Could it be that it needs a new manifold? It also been replaced with the turbo with a used one. And still same trouble that car feels boggy.
Taking the manifold off from the turbine, did it have a locator pin? Imagine it can only slide in on one way? What torque did you tighten the turbine to housing clamp up to? Reckon there would be access to swap the oil feed pipe once it’s removed? Can the turbo twist slightly to access the torx bolt?
It did have a locator pin of sorts and you have to be very careful not to touch the fins while removing the manifold from the turbo. Torque for catalytic converter to turbocharger is 13 Nm. I couldn't find the torque specs for between the manifold and the turbo, so i did the same spec. I don't remember exactly, but you should be able to at least be able to loosen the bolt on the oil feed line. Not sure if it'll come out.
Hello i have a problem with 2014 bmw z4 2.0i sdrive 103.000 km the car does not want to boost when take a log always 8 psi 0,6 bar boost and no fluid code i check ecu program, boost leak, exhaust sytem, wasgete (this one use electronic), vanos, valvetronic everythink seams good but the car 0-100 km 11 second the car never ask more boost only want max 8psi 0.6bar boost try everthink but cant solve this car.
Wish I could help, but I don't have enough expertise to point out what it could be. However, if you do figure it out, please let us know in case someone has the same problem!
Really appreicate your channel but cant seem to find a used wastegate manifold online. Is this just due to scarcity or do I need to look up something specific? Thanks!
There are plenty of them on email. I saw anywhere from $125 to $500 with turbo included. Check it out: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575521154&toolid=10001&campid=5338566624&customid=simplez4&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313%26_nkw%3Dbmw%2Bn20%2Bexhaust%2Bmanifold%26_sacat%3D0 Thanks for watching!
I have the rattle but no codes do you recommend me replacing it before codes or should I let it ride. I have a 2012 528i xdrive so I know ill have less room for the job. Also can it be done like your video or will the engine need to be pulled.
528 should have enough space once you remove some shields and plastics, but I’m not 100% sure of the exact process. You don’t HAVE to replace it if the noise doesn’t bother you, but eventually you will start losing boost and start getting codes. Once again, those aren’t very harmful, but the car can use more fuel and have less power etc.
@@SimpleCarGuy Hell I didn't even see you replied thank you! I get a drivetrain malfunction when I go up hills. Goes away when I turn the car off my code reader says boost is too low. Replaced the solenoid still happens going to do this job soon thank you! Awesome videos watch all the time thanks again buddy! I live in il too..
Hi not the original maker of the video but there was actually a part update to address that symptom, the oil line for the turbo would allow oil to drip into the turbine and cause the smoke on startup, the new updated part has a check valve to keep that from happening, hope that helps with deciding on what to do!
I don’t think it’s from an N26, I believe that it’s from the newer engine (since I wanted low miles) that was using an electronic wastegate actuator. I just drilled out the piece that was going on the arm to make it fit. Worked well so far. Of course it’d be easier to just order the right part, but those are pre-2013 and hard to find in good shape and new ones are stupid expensive.
@@SimpleCarGuy is from the N26 EWG, i did the same like you, the only difference is that i both the hole turbo for 400 euros because i couldn't by only the manifold , i had to drill a 10 mm hole in order to fit my PWG arm ! as you can see inside the WG, they use better material for the EWG. glad i found your channel. abount the buzzing noise, is it normal? my car does this to at cold start.
@@costelariton9864 I guess you are right, I looked further into it and it looks like they were the same for N20 and N26 from 2013+ since N20 got electronic wastegate actuator at that time. I watched your video a couple more times and I think that's just injectors, mine sounds about the same.
Which noise are you referencing? The car had 115000 miles when I replaced the engine, but I did not replace the manifold at the time. I have put on about 2-3k miles since then.
@@costelariton9864 watched the video and honestly I don't hear a buzzing noise that isn't normal. The clicking or ticking noise is just the injectors being loud (if that's what you referring to).
I have a 2012 328 With N20, its doing the rattle noise also smokes in the mornings first starting, found a complete turbo and manifold assy but it came out a N26, wanted to ask u would it fit on my car? Thanks in advance.
It 'should' work on your car. However, depending on the year it can have an electric waste gate actuator instead of the pneumatic one. You will have to use your old one in that case as the newer one will not work on your car. Hope that helps! Let me know of how it goes for you.
@@frankfrank1214 I also have 2012 328 with pneumatic waste gate. Which one did you end up buying that worked for you? The one from N26 with electronic waste gate (and what year was it)? And then just drilled out the arm on the pneumatic actuator as SimpleCarGuy suggested? Thanks!
@@SimpleCarGuy I have this same engine and I’m really concerned it’s a garbage engine. May I ask what you think of the n20 and the problems you’ve had?
@@realsaxual2357 It's not the best engine around, but 2013+ they have fixed most of the issues and it should be fairly reliable as long as the oil is changed often. Older ones suffer from many issues, though.
If you can access the line without removing the turbo, go with that. I'm not sure how much space there is on a 528i with N20, but I assume there is a good amount if a v8 fits in there. If it's not under the turbo, replace it with the turbo in place.
Georgica Mihalcea Am schimbat numai garniturile de la line coolant .Am avut suficient spațiu ca sa nu dau jos galeria de evacuare . Nu am nici un sunet care sa indice vreo problema la turbo sau la galeriile de evacuare .
I have a friend wanting me to tack his to prevent the rattling. Do you know if those rings are made of stainless or what type of metal? Trying to figure out which welding process I need to use to fix it.
Hey man no shade to you I appreciate a real tech to spread the knowledge, but if they were clever they were just simply design it the same way as in your regular car because they know most people ain’t gonna be that clever to think to use the pulse jump terminals and not from the battery itself.. To me they thought about well they going to hook it to the battery so they’re gonna mess up the electrical system - that’s more money that the company makes that’s all I think about how BMW is there unreliable and too expensive..don’t get me wrong tho,the 2013 X1 I’ve gotten 2014 with 20k with factory extended warranty everything was all up-to-date replace new timing chain tensioner‘s etc. etc. all the weak parts it’s currently at 144k and the only issues that I have is the RATTLE and it’s gotten bad where it’s no longer actuating and making boost.it’s in limp mode “engine malfunction reduced power..and it’s sad to say I had no choice but to drive it like that and it’s been over 2 going on 3 years and I’m really impressed on its reliability..just bout a reman turbo,new valve cover n gaskets new down pipe cause it’s leaking out the flex pipe..I really like bmw and since now they make a swap spacer to swap in a honda motor 👌🏾👌🏾💪🏾👏🏾🙏🏾using the original trans..soon my mans gets his new car I will be taking it and swapping in a honda K24a2 block with the k20a2 head swap with turbo and it will make much more power and most importantly reliability and parts will be a dime a dozen 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾keep up the grate work tho man…if it wasn’t for honda I would know the little knowledge I have gain to work on a car let along a honda…
I did it without removing the engine mount…and on jack stands, didn’t even have a lift! However I removed the whole turbo. I couldn’t reach the nut to separate the turbo from the manifold! It’s not an easy job but it is doable bro…the solenoids on the catalytic converter you don’t have to unscrew you can just unplug them. Just follow the wires…that made it a lot easier for me.
