If you have a bmw x3 xi 3 series and with the gm transmission and you suddenly lose reverse or stuck in park possibly forward gear problems I would try this first before you pay thousands for a new transmission.
I'm ASE certified for 22 years but looks like you saved a lot of people money good job bud respect to you I have my own shop and these day everyone is living in hard times for example if someone comes to me with an issue like this I would say I may know what it is but I would have to open the pan on the trans and make sure and if it's that then I call the customer and explain it to them for this job I charge around $450 to $550 and my customers are happy some of them start to cry and that what makes me happy 😊 when they are happy
Thank you so very much. I recently lost the reverse gear on my 2007 X3 2.5 si. Took it to a mechanic and without batting an eye he recommended a gearbox replacement. Your video saved me a whole load of cash.
Jack Meyers, You are the MAN!!! I never leave comments on videos. You just saved me a new transmission!! I have a 2007 X3 and my reverse went out. Did some research and found your video. I even have a connect at BMW and even he told me I will probably need a new transmission before looking at it. I sent him your video and he said I'll give it a shot. It worked!
Awesome. If there's one thing i know dealers and transmission shops don't like to repair a lot of simple problems on euro cars. Glad I was able to help you out .
September 2018...Had this problem in my 2010 X3...car wouldn't go into gear. Described the problem to 2 shops and they both quoted me a new transmission without looking at it. A 3rd Local body shop repaired this part for $211 after I showed them this video
I'm having same issue, had a shady mechanic that said he's a European specialist, and did great work on my american Dodge. But since I got my x3 back from him, it clicked like plastic was hitting something, then all of a sudden it won't got into reverse or drive
good description the car will stuck on drive usually and it will not start because the neutral switch will not be able to read that yu on neutral or park , it will be a nightmare for regular people , good video by the way
I did this job yesterday not gonna lie it took me about 3 hours lol. Kinda sucked getting the valve body back in but I did wanna change all the seals, tranny pan gasket, tranny filter and the actual sleeve the shift selector rod is cake to change. The sleeve was where I struggled a little it is notched at an angle at the bottom so when you change the sleeve make sure you put it back how it was or you’ll bend pins in the valve body but putting it back in by yourself while being on your back and the car on jack stands kinda sucked. The 6 valve body screws are a e12 torx socket and you need a regular 10mm and 8mm as well. The torque specs for the pan are 10nm I think I did 10.1. I kinda ball parked it on the valve body and went slightly tighter then hand tight and went over them a couple times. All in all this video helped out tremendously they told my cousin to scrap her car and that it would cost $5k to fix. So $240 in parts including 2 gallons of dexron 6 atf. I recommend buying the parts of FCP EURO
Great, informative video! I have a ‘95 Mitsubishi GTO ATX (same as 3000GT) that lost reverse. Do you have a clue if those transmissions work in a similar fashion when it comes to reverse? Thank you!
This video is great. I have a stuck solenoid. I had the same issue where they were saying I needed a new Mechtronics system. Could I buy the specific Shift Solenoid that is stuck? 2007 BMW X3 with GA6L45R Transmission
Great video! Hopefully you have some time to help me out with a question regarding it... If my 07 BMW 328xi E92 seems to think it’s in reverse all the time when it’s not.. for instance the car shows (R) on my dash display and in turn will not start. The display does not change no mater the position of the shifter (P), (N) or (D) I can physically move the shifter and the car will roll in neutral, locks in park but will not change what is displayed on the dash and like I mentioned above will not start I’m guessing because the car thinks it’s in reverse all the time. Do you think what you discuss in this video is the problem? Thank you Thomas
Hi; thanks for your video. I just change my slide valve. Before my car was stuck in park; now I can move forward but no reverse ... do you have any idea ? Thanks
2011- 323i. The transmission stopped working. I pulled up at a traffic light and when the light changed I tried to accelerate and the car would not move. Just before this happened I heard a pop and thought a tire had burst. The does not go forward or reverse. Had to get the car towed. No warning lights or engine codes and the car was running fine up to the stop light. Any ideas of what the problem could be ?
Nice work, thanks for the video. I just diagnosed this problem(thanks to your video) on my wifes '07 328xi and will be ordering parts today. Do you recommend a complete transmission flush after this repair? Ill add new fluid and top it off, but I'm wondering how much plastic might be in and around from the part snapping in two.
Danny B ive never flushed one. They usually snap clean off. All fluid in this transmission goes through the filter prior to the pump. If the were to be plastic in the pan it would more then likely be so small you wouldn't even see it. Flushes really don't clear the torque converter like you would think. I would say new filter, fluid and gasket and you should be good to go. You can always take the old rod and put it bsck together and see if there's even any pieces missing.
Torx female socket size E12 to drop the valve body. Ps. You don’t need to drop the whole valve body you can just lower it a bit to get the gear selector rod in.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FG1M3y-iBvk.html watch this video too. I used both videos to tackle this project. Using both videos made life a lot easier
I did my valve cover gasket and as soon as I turned my car on my reverse and drive light don’t show up in the dash . If I keep it in d long enough it will move but won’t shift out of first gear I had no issues prior to this .
Great video 👍 problem with the automatic transmission transmission Faulty drive moderately possible to continue journey Reduced acceleration Have checked by near bmw service Then a message appeared on the crash detector Code 0056c5 EGS: Shift valve B: stuck in off position Code 0056BF Clutch gears 12 3 and 4: neutral test my BMW 320 I 2008 Transmission GM Number GA6L-45R chassis Number D A B V G 99050V C81681 Thanks
Your a good friend! My buddy of 35 years is a retired builder, as soon as I mention my car he disappears for weeks. Anyway, I was wondering if you can help. I'm getting a whine wistling noise going around 25 mph and the rpm's sound as though the noise fluctuates with acceleration and decelleration with the speed or rather the torque to the drive shaft, I recently replaced the Drive shaft along with the Guibo and Center support Bearing. When I go above 25-30 mph the noise goes away. The transmission shifts fine on my 2007 x3 e83 3.0si with 131,000 miles bought used and change all the fluids regularly, she runs good except for the abs, (not the abs light), The ABS comes on and pulsates every 180 or 360 degree's of wheel spin or abs sensor to the wheel bearing, (no reluctor ring on front) It happens when backing down my driveway, which is pretty steep and at first start, cold start. I DOESN't Happen when driving forward down my drive and brakes feel good. A Couple months ago I did a transmission service. Changed Oil, Filter and pan Gasket. I could not get the seal ring for the filter from the Valve Body so I left the old ring in there, I didn't want to mess anything up. Is it possible I have a leak in the filter and the tranny is not pulling enough fluid through the transmission? Causing this noise?. I'm not sure how this ABS system works or is connected to the transmission some how. Also, could I have a bad wheel bearing, front? I clean out the rear Tone Rings, sensor and sensor mounting area with a wire wheel and the abs, 4x4 and brake light went away. Also had 2 codes p1774 and P1775 and are reset and have not come back. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Great Video!
@@dustydirty Thanks for replying. As soon as the car cools down again I'm going to try that. I did change the valve cover gaskets and know what your talking about. I'll get back to you...Thanks again.
I have a 2006 525xi and it wont go in drive or reverse can u help me please I’m getting the spark plugs and coils changed but need answers on why it stopped going in drive and reverse. I was thinking if I put transmission fluid in it maybe that would help because it acted like it wanted to go in drive but it didn’t have full power. If u could help that would be a blessing
I have been searching for the torque specs for the valve body. The only thing I could find was a PDF for reinstalling a remanufactured valve body into the case from a company called Sonnax. It says 100 in-lb, which converts 11.2985nm. That sounds about right and is the spec I will use. d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/instructions/4620/6L80_RVB_Family-Tech-Install.pdf
So i did the swap but now my car won't start i tried sliding the rod into neutral and it started but shifter marks drive and it won't let me shift any help I've read multiple comments with the same issue but no solution
Hi Jack, my x1 e84 “Drive” gear position is not appearing on my cluster. If it doesnt appear the car is not engaged to “Drive”. If “D” is displayed/appears then its ok. I dont have problem with P and R positions, they dont disappear in the cluster. But the “N” and especially “D” position is not anymore appearing on the cluster, reason my car doesnt move forward. When it sometimes engaged to drive, then few miles my car will display the transmission malfuncition and go on a safe mode. Can anyone help me on this pls. I already replaced the transmission gear position switch but now its more severe. I couldnt move my car because it doesnt go forward everytine i put the gear on Drive position, as it is totally not appearing on the cluster.
June 2020 - I've got NO REVERSE --- in fact my car is trying to Go Forward while the car shows R and N and Park.. its trying to push forward ! So is this the SHIFT SELECTOR ?
Hi. I have 2014 bmw 328d x-drive. I was accelerating and injured and when is neutral when I stop I’ve put it in the park and it’s not switching to drive and horses drivetrain malfunction call roadside assistance. Do you think I could have the same problem or do I have different transmission in this car because I don’t know? Thank you
Before watching all the videos, I removed my valve body. Stupidly, I also loosened the other screws holding the valve housing (I believe it's called) to the valve body. I thought, no problem, I'll just retighten them. So I go and look for a tightening sequence and guess what? I can't find one anywhere. My BMW manual just says "don't loosen the bolts". I found the torque schedule (24 30 2AZ) for the bolts but when I do a search for that schedule in the BMW manual, it is never referenced. Can anyone point me to where the tightening sequence is for these bolts?
Hey, can you drop the link to the part, or the actual name to the pieces that need to be replaced? I'm on ebay, and it keeps showing the whole thing that you took out
Can't seem to find the part for an 02 X5 3.0 GM transmission. Couldn't you loosen the bolts and pull it down and replace it without fully taking it out?
trentcdrums you should really drop the valve body and replace the seals up top. Also, the valve body has two guide pins which can get caught up on you, and damage the transmission housing if they go in crooked.
Hey I have 07 328xi just got awesome deal at auction drove perfect then sudden loss of reverse and stuck in park w trans malf message you think it could be as simple as this I never had any trans problem
@@mikej9059 I am literally about to scrap the damn car whole. Mine has 136k miles on it and its alpine white with the dakota brown interior. Super clean overall, bought it $7,800 and however I calculate it the expense, time and head ache is just not worthe fixing. Its a 328 at the end of the day not like its an m3 thats worthe spending money on. Going to see which dealer gives me the most and just dump mine for a newer car. Im over driving anything older than 5 years old. And this is all coming from someone who has owned multiple, meticulously maintained e90's. Don't get one unless it's manual, problem solved. Oh well you win some and lose some 🤷♂️
You wouldn't happen to know I have a 3 Series 2008 e92 328i sometimes in between my 4th and 5th or 5th and 6th I'm not sure I press the gas on the highway and it'll start butter a little bit you wouldn't know what that sounds like what didn't I know it's hot hard to diagnose a car I'm just this stupid little paragraph but I figured I'd ask it only lasts about a second and if I switch gears manually Tiptronic it works fine
I think replace gaskets and the arm. Like he said it might be broken, I’ll advance you to purchase a cheap obd2 scanner to see the codes that you’re receiving
Can you possibly let me know if when the valve body is out, one can replace a faulty solenoid? Mine happens to be the “B” solenoid....causing a hard shift...or rew-up and sudden lunge as the car drops into gear. I had the local “reputable” transmission shop inform me that in “these GM transmissions” the whole valve body has to be replaced with all 6 solenoids. At a cost that went from an estimate of $400-$500 to about $3000 plus. I think this is total BS and took the car back. I can find new valve bodies including the solenoids on ebay from the exact same GM transmission just from a different BMW model...for about $400. My car is a 2007 BMW X3....and the donor vehicle is a 2009 BMW 135 ( identical transmission ). Question is: I was told I have to code in the new part and I dont know if this is necessary if the donor vehicle is another BMW though not the same model...and is this something most transmission shops can do for me. Final question is : is it actually even true that in a BMW GM transmission the valve body has to be replaced when even just one solenoid goes, or is it more likely that just a simple replacement of the one bad solenoid is needed, which would then mean no coding necessary as the valve body would stay. Thanks...anybody!
Sadly, that repair shop was not far off. If you indeed have a failed solenoid, they are "built in" into the transmission control unit of the GM 6L45R. The transmission control unit is that black component bolted to the side of the mechatronics unit (bmw lingo for valve body). Your 3000 dollar problem lies in aforementioned programming. Sadly, these modules cannot be programmed to multiple vehicles. They are coded to one vehicle, and it becomes sort of like a fingerprint. Unique to that vehicle, and cannot be reprogrammed to another vehicle's ID. That means, you cannot swap in a used mechatronics unit. It *MUST* be new, and it retails for over 3k at the dealer. Plus fluid, seals, and labor, and subsequent programming. Wish I had better news 🤷♂️
Wanted to add, that it can be confusing to search the web for this information, because of the fact the ZF unit was used in these cars as well. ZF units, you can find solenoids, and components separately. GM units, the solenoids are built in to the control unit. Also, you could unbolt the control unit from the valve body, and swap it onto the used unit, and the OBD system will be non the wiser; as you would be keeping your original control unit. This is how folks avert programming. However, due to the fact the solenoids are built in, you would just be swapping your problem over to the donor valve body. Once again, if your issue is a solenoid failure on the GM unit, sadly it requires a brand new mechatronics unit which retails for 3100 😱😖
Lynx Star Automotive ...thanks. I really appreciate your comprehensive answer. It looks like there may have been some recent changes in the off the grid market. Since I posted my question, I actually purchased a valve body for this transmission on ebay for $200 (103K on it) and had it installed into my existing transmission. I looked on craigslist for a “coder” for BMW...who came and in literally 20 minutes coded the valve body into the vehicle once my mechanic put it in for $100. The X3 now drives perfectly.....with the shifting problem completely fixed. I totally understand that things change quite quickly these days so at this point...this situation appears to now have a more sane option. Thanks again though....cheers.
Lynx Star Automotive ...Interesting point. Even though I managed to get my unit fixed...clearly with some unexpected luck, I am somewhat confused by your point here just from a general interest perspective. You indicate the although the control unit is transferable to a new valve body, because of the solenoid problem...one would just be exporting the existing problem to the new part. Now, it is my understanding that the solenoid typically fails because it becomes less able to move easily perhaps due to a deposit or the solenoid just simply fails internally. As this goes on though, the control unit would presumably still be sending correct signals to the effected solenoid, its just that the inoperative solenoid would not respond to these commands. It would be my assumption that if the control unit is transferred to a new valve body that has all solenoids working properly, then the commands from the control unit would be acted upon correctly and as expected, as each solenoid would have the ability and capacity to do its function. Can you please expand on this point, as it may be that I have clearly miss-interpreted something in your advice. Thanks again for your time and willingness to offer help.
zeroceiling if the failure is the valvebody itself. Meaning a mechanical issue, swapping the control unit from the old one, to another valvebody will cure the problem. If the problem is an electrical failure of a solenoid, the control unit must be replaced because they are built into said control unit. The solenoids cannot be removed from the control unit. Since BMW does not sell the control unit separately, one has to purchase the entire mechatronics unit. As far as your situation went, you used a "coder" who used a Chinese locksmith tool to "virginize" the donor EGS? I have heard of some guys using Chinese tools to hack these units back to virgin status. However, the info is very vague, and the results are very uneven. I have been trying to learn this myself, because believe me I lose a lot of these jobs simply because customers can not afford it, or the vehicle is not worth it. Could you share the CL ad? I'm curious to call up the individual and see what they offer.
@@dannyfonseca6391 the white tab that I pulled to release wasn't going in easily. I turned the wire harness clockwise and pushed it in with a little force. Can that be the problem?
I guess GM tries to cut the cost wherever they think it is safe. In the Mercedes the solenoid lever in the shifter module was also plastic...then... (I am not a mechanic, just a poor guy who wants to fix things)
well jack is not responding on his videos so i did some research those are the part numbers List of recommended parts to replace while in the transmission: 24 33 7 617 803 Gear selector valve 24 11 7 572 618 Auto Pan Gasket 24 11 7 593 565 Trans filter 24 15 7 572 607 Sealing Sleeve 24 27 7 581 598 Sealing Sleeve Set
What did you change, the entire valvebody? Or just the selector rod and seals? If you changed the entire valvebody, it has to be programmed to the vehicle. Most of us cannot program a used unit either. It must be brand new from the dealer.
Hi, could you help me by telling me how to access and replace the neutral safety switch? Its inside and can i replace it withouth dropping down the sump?
This happened to me. First got a hint of the issue from this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HJU4jML0AZc.html&ab_channel=FrankGuerrero His video shows the signs of the issue (loose bit) which matches up with what I see when I've pulled the cover off. Now just trying to figure out if this is something I can handle. The odd part in my situation is that the transmission had been slipping for some time prior to this and we were warned that it would likely go out at some point and then we'd have to replace the transmission. They did a transmission service prior to that statement so there is a new filter in there ( a month old ). Is it absolutely necessary to switch out the filter every time even when it had just been done so recently? Now on the hunt for a video that will show me how to pull it out. Thanks for the vid!
You can get the part from a dealer, or somewhere like FCP Euro who sells OEM parts online. If you want to spend a few extra bucks, Sonnax makes a beefier version of this part. My understanding is that BMW has revised the part and improved on some of its weaknesses, so I just opted to go that route.
