Steve, this is where you are a gift from god...everything you are doing is what was picked up in my last MoT...I'll be watching this again and again ready for work in the spring (I have to work on cars outside)...
Another excellent video! All camera shots are super clear and the audio is top level too! Also great to see you show in depth how to work on the manual parking brakes. I agree, they are indeed a pain to work on.
I have a Z3 Coupe too. Great videos you have put together, I feel like I want to ship my car to you to have it properly done. Each angle and details., fantastic job !!!
Steve, in the US they use this rust remover called 'Evaporust', it is dip and works best in overnight application. It may be sold under the same or different label in Belgium. The good thing is it can be used over again a couple of times untill the chemical gets weak.
Many many thanks for doing these videos the Z3, rear axel rebuild. Plus the video is well put together with good sound and picture quality. I'm hoping to do this job on my car and it has given me many pointers and great advice.
You are truly an inspiration for the job that I certainly would like to repeat but on my own Z3! Well done and thanks for sharing this with all of us! 🙏🏻
21:24 ‘if you don’t tape it of course because when you tape it, it takes a lot longer’. I’ve heard other RU-vidrs say the same. And that’s even without the post processing. Thank you very much for making these videos! 🙏
You have such a great hoist setup, you should upgrade your tools, it would make your job easier. You already work really well, good tools would make it better. Good video, subscribed.
Great work, the way you got the pushes out is really helpful if one shouldn't have an access to press. It's a little unusual seeing you work on a newer car, but really enjoying it.
Yeah that's true it has years on it already. Still, I think electronic fuel injection marked quite a new era with cars in general - more sensors, more control units, more comfort accessories and more electronics overall. And the main principles have not changed so that's why I call most cars from the1990s and onwards "newer", even if they are not. And your other cars are really old by comparsion. But I think it is a pretty cool car and I am going to follow the series for sure!
Interesting and nice video, as usual. It is pleasing to see a well organized step by step demo. And strangely, it is always much nicer to see somebody else deal with odd locations and rusty bolts than to do it oneself... :) I was also pleasantly surprised to see your chrome swivel joint withstand the air impact wrench. Was expecting that one to explode. Probably would have if you had to really reef hard on those bolts. There are some beefier swivels for impact jobs. [edit: typos]
@@notajp I bought mine 20 years ago...pretty cheap actually...and they are still working...i think they were under $30 maybe $20 for both?? 3/8" & 1/2" sizes.. ( that is the size of impact or extension )..... Swivels are double that or 3 times the price.... And i can use any size Impact socket ...so more versatile...metric or standard
Hi Steve, I have a similar Z3 that I carried out the same work that you are doing. My car had a similar amount of rust. One area you need to check is behind the sills. The sills are just covers that unbolt to reveal a box section construction. My car had quite a bit of rust in this area. I cleaned it all off and used POR15 over the entire area.. Great videos as always. Thanks.
I have a mediocre Dutch. (I can't speak it with the correct accent, so I try to avoid it.) So, it always makes me smile when you say or write things in a "weird" way. In this case, I think you wrote axel, because of axiaal. But it should be axle. Another one is when you say "up", like "put up" instead of "put on" for example. (I always had issues with op/aan/etc.) Not trying to be mean, it just makes me smile:) Thanks for the videos!
Hoi,leuk om weer eens te zien,rij zelf met Z3. Wel redelijk wat roest,wat ik altijd doe is wat mazout met afgedraaide olie mengen en dan met lucht spuit overal tussen blazen en de roest blijft zeker weg. Mijn vader dit het vroeger altijd in de garage en alles blijft lekker vettig en kost niets,ik doe al er mijn autos mee. Groeten Mike.
Bedankt, ja ik ken dat ... Lang geleden deed men dat ook in het leger... mazouteren noemde men dat. wel niet zo goed voor de rubbers maar geen roest , dat is zeker
Hahaha Flemish you are so funny in making you videos.And really you take your time. " Guys let me drop off this it is very heavy"😆. Did you just set a camera to make that part.that is acting, like actors.😂 Your addicted follower Moshitoa . South Africa
Ja daar is wel wat werk aan, 21 jaar oud.. Maar een collectors item aan het worden , daar er maar een goede 74 ooit zijn gemaakt in dit kleur en met zonnedak. In totaal werden er 7641 coupe's gemaakt (2.8Ltr 6L). Ik heb deze op een gewone Be plaat staan en ga dat zou houden... Die gaat in de opslag en van tijd tot tijd eens mee rijden bij droog weer. Zolang we nog mogen met deze oudere auto's rijden wnat dat wordt ook een probleem binnenkort. En voor de rest, wel ja ik heb graag dat mijn auto in order is. Groeten
@@D3Sshooter Groot gelijk. Wat mij ook een beetje bezig houdt... "mogen rijden..." met deze oudere auto's. Er zijn juweeltjes te vinden, maar wat gaat ons dat kosten om er mee te "mogen" rijden.... en ombouwen/aanpassen mag al in de meeste gevallen niet eens.
Upgrading diff mount bolts to studs is na insane improvement. Can't express how I hate bolting diff to subframe on e30 with stock bolts...they are not even tapered at end!!
Hello there. What you're doing there is not only an improvement but a labor of love for that Z3. Great job! Are the trailing arm bushings on the Z3s, the ones that cause the interior edge of the rear tires to wear unevenly?
You already have the rear diferential out so it was easy to get the axle shaft out. So how do we accomplish this is we aren't taking the diff out? That would be helpful to know
The stiffer bushings are good for the racetrack, but not so good for the street because, depending on the brand they can be much less durable (not necessarily), but the worst problem is that they can transfer the sound from the diff to the car and that would be a disaster
It was the surface rust and the rear axel play ( due to that ripped bushing). They lift the car slightly so that the wheel still touch the ground and then move the metal plates under wheels in all kind of directions, while they watch all the parts for play.
@@PatHaskell , That Pat is pure bureaucracy....ridicules but a fact. They claim that its a modification to the suspension characteristics of the car and as such not authorised as the car is no longer conform the manufactures specification. You can get an exception, based on a full evaluation report.... but that is expensive and not worth the effort, way to much paper work.
Hi Steve i changed the shock absorbers and bumpers on mine this year, they are not expensive. The shock absorbers are certainly no longer good after more than 20 years. Do you have the M chassis? Great video :))
Very complicated parking brake system, why they don’t use the disk , like so many cars ! A question about you : what was your job , what did you study? Thanks for this good video
Thanks for the comments, that is German design lol... My job as I still work full time is a electronics design engineer, I did study computer science (master)
Wel most is common sense , tech details in manuals and or google. There are plenty of sources nut always check more then one. I seldom use a forum as there is to much chatter and incorrect information
@@D3Sshooter hey, I also use to wonder where does this old man get this. You will wonder how does he manage to set cameras, talk , and work all by himself. Hey this man is not ordinary shem. Since I knew this channel I don't miss a single video
Yep and its the worse thing every applied to a car, when it is penetrated water get inside and is captured... that is where it rusts, A nightmare as you don't see it before its to late. Have a look on the next video that is coming out , you will see what I mean
I would suggest removing those inner fenders...even just to LOOK!! your all apart and alot easier to paint or clean up anything hidden?? Sounds like your MOT is too strict?? Surface rust is NORMAL...LOL
Are you going to re-attach the left and right swing arms to the rear axle sub-assembly (and center diff) before putting it back into the car or after? Having the whole thing together would be heavier, but re-attaching the arms would be easier when it is off the car... no real winner there. Cheers,
Very good point, I was considering to do the complete rebuild outside the car and then mount the complete rear. But as I am in my own that will be to heavy, so it will be piece by piece. Good point
Good video but a little confused why you went through the nonsense of removing the drum brake shoes and cable from the hub end and not from the hand brake lever end which is about 100% easier. Also removing the trailing arms from the axel on the car even though you're removing the whole axel anyway is kinda silly. Juat drop the ENTIRE axel. It's brake lines and 6 bolts. I'm confused why you made extra work for yourself lol.
