I'm impressed with the details you provide on your videos , watched the spindle gusset vid . I feel a marathon is in order , and don't even have a Sequoia.
That's dope I bet it is hard to cut, it's pretty damn expensive too! I priced out some 2.5" diameter UHMW tube. I was thinking of selling some 1" Sequoia kits but it just didn't make financial sense.
Those seats and glass weigh more than you think. I personally won’t run body lifts but given the condition of your old hardware I don’t blame you for taking advantage of that kit and gaining the 1” of up travel. Great video.
Truthfully I've always been against them too. I've seen too many awful hack job installs over the years, like a 5 inch body lift on a K5 Blazer with rusted out floors & cab mounts lol. But after researching it and thinking it through, a one inch lift with grade 8 hardware seemed fine. I wouldn't go much higher (if at all) because yeah, the Sequoia's weigh almost an entire TON more than the Tacoma's or older 4Runners. Thanks for your insight as always my man.
@@treehouseoffroad yeah I posted before the end of the video lol and drove 6 hours to north Michigan I should have edited it I run no sway bars but I run a lighter set up on my rig. Hope to wheel with you soon. Keep the videos coming
you don't need to do any topside retention to remove, the splined oem bolts are connected to those indexed washers, so they hold them selves from turning.
haha, just commenting my inner voice. Could be wrong though, as the OEM washers looked to be captive, but not indexed, but the OEM bolts did appear to have splines...weird, no? @@treehouseoffroad
@@bjlanders Yes some were captive and all had washers held on by splines IIRC. Been running regular bolts w/nylocs on body lifts since my Jeep days with no issues. I'm sure Toyota has their reasons I just don't know them lol
One thing I can't stand on trucks is when the front track width is wider than the rear. With the Tundras it's easy, you just get bedsides to match the bulge fenders. With the Sequoia there's nothing like that so idk... With the long travel I'll definitely need to do something to address the fenders soon though. I think I'll chop 'em up and see what it looks like
@@treehouseoffroad I hear that, I just purchased some and had to add 1.5in spacers and it looks better. I also just received my 1in body lift from the link you had on that video. Love your sequoia
Hey man, question. When you said you should've just loosened the bolts on the rag joint, then done the body lift...did you still need to drill out the groove for the bolt to pass through once the body lift was installed? I'm facing this issue. Haven't installed my 1.5 inch BL yet but wondering how I'd be able to make that rag joint mod work. I have a 2 inch BL on my 3rd gen 4R and the kit came with a steering spacer. The current kit I have for my Sequoia didn't come with one. Trying to figure out the best move. Was thinking maybe I could get 2 long bolts and bolt the upper and lower shafts together post body lift if the rag joint mod doesn't work
@Treehouse Overland instead of waiting another 3 weeks for 4Crawler to send me a spacer, I was thinking I could utilize 2 long grade 8 bolts and nuts and essentially connect the 2 halves together with no spacer in between. Basically the bolts would just be exposed with no spacer for them to go through. Assuming the bolts are torqued to spec wouldn't that work just fine?
Nice! I need to install my 4crawler 1in BL on my first gen Tundra, before I attempt to fit 35's. Do you have OEM LCAs? I'm wanting to go with the Solo LCAs just to be sure the 35's will fit my rig with 3in Kings and SPC UCAs.
I currently have a long travel setup but yes in this video I was running factory lowers. With the SPC's and a little modificatioon to the pinch weld you can definitely fit 35's
Great video man! Unrelated question - do your sliders touch the pinch welds on the rocker panels? Mine touch now that they are all welded in and I'm considering a body lift as opposed to cutting and re-welding. If they do touch have you had any issues?
I have bolt on sliders from Rocky Road outfitters, which I do not recommend. They do touch. After my trip to the Rubicon Trail they got bent up and now I can hardly open/close my doors 🤬
do you have our vehicles have an aftermarket body mount bushings that could work? I've found a universal kit from energy suspension that'll fit the 1st gen Tundra just not sure if it'll work for 1st gen sequoia.
I recommend you reach out to Roger Brown at 4crawler.com. He's a Toyota Wizard that makes the body lifts and I believe he offers a stock option. Tell him Treehouse Offroad sent ya! 4CrawlR@gmail.com
I have a 2005 Sequoia and I had a question about the Sequoia body mount bushings, that maybe you would have some advice on. Ive noticed while driving mine off road, or just hitting a good size pot hole on the street that there's a lot of reverberation that rattles through the body. My suspension is all good. I changed the lower ball joints with OEMs when I bought and lifted the truck as it had 180k on the original ball joints. Im running Fox 2.0 up front and Dobinsons in the rear, all brand new, set a 2". All my control arm bushings are good. Running Suspension Maxx extended sway bar links, Energy Suspension poly steering rack bushings. All that to say there's nothing loose in the suspension and Im pretty OCD about that stuff. Tires are fairly new Michellins and stock size. I know, I know . . . that makes no sense. Just havent decided which size ATs I want yet. But the tires are about as smooth riding as a tire can be. So the reverberation is definitely in the body. So I was looking at the frame and body and noticed theres like a 6 foot gap right in the middle of the body with no body mounts between the body and frame. So you have all that sheet metal just floating with nothing to support it there. My old 98 4runner, which is obviously much smaller and lighter that the Sequoia, had bushings there in the center of the body. So 10 bushings on the 4runner, and only 8 bushings on the Sequoia. I believe thats why there's so much reverb through the body. So is that just a normal unavoidable thing for the Sequoia? Have you noticed that same body reverberation/rattle with yours? Im pretty new so to the Sequoia world, so figured I should ask. Thanks
I've also wondered why Toyota would put less body mounts on a bigger vehicle. I have a long list of questions that I've come up with over the years just in case I ever get the chance to sit down with a Toyota engineer. That being said I've owned three Sequoias and never had a problem with the body mounts. How do yours look? Is there visible deterioration? Can you bend or deform them by hand? If I were faced with your issue I would mount a GoPro under the truck on a magnetic mount and just drive around. I've identified many problems this way, sounds or clunks I just couldn't figure out. Stick it under there and drive around the block. Move it around strategically to where you think the noise is coming from then review the footage. It sounds like you already addressed the usual suspects. You extended the rear sway bar links as well?
@treehouseoffroad yeah, the body mounts look good. The truck is in really good condition for 180k. I think I'm just feeling vibration in the sheet metal between the front and rear body mounts, and hearing all the vibrations in the interior. I've seen a couple of people mention the 1st gen sequoia has a lot of interior rattles. I'm running the SuspesionMaxx extended sway bar links. And I'm not crazy about them. Wish I had gone with SRQ fabrications links.
Since this video I made my own 2" body lift, it's super easy. Just pull out the bolt and add however many inches you want your pucks to be. I used 3" diam UMHW solid rod from Amazon, cut it into pucks, and drilled holes through it
Sequoia Fam is right! The cable system and actuator motor were completely gummed up and stuck. Somebody used the wrong type of grease and it turned into a nightmarish thick paste. The glass is fine, it's the internals that need to be replaced.
@@treehouseoffroad curious to see that video, mine is that way too. Last I researched I need a new track/cable assembly which is only available OEM and spendy. So I just pulled the fuse for now.
I included the email address of the owner of the company in the description. Just reach out to him and tell him what you need, he replies pretty quickly
We just had it smogged so we've got 23 months before we have to worry about it again. Everybody in my neighborhood was getting hit for their cats so it just seemed like the most cost effective move.
The light is on but she's fine with it. We don't have to pass smog again for 18 months or so, I plan on reinstalling them temporarily when that time comes. I might just get another Skid Row transmission skid/cat protector setup too.
@@treehouseoffroad Fortunately I dont have emissions tests where I live. Id really like to find a way to tune the post cats to just be off. My rig runs fine, but smells a tad rich.
@@treehouseoffroad these kids have the whole world at their finger tips and have no idea. Us old farts remember marbles, pogs, and slammers like it was yesterday.
