Just one more thing !! A five finger knuckle shuffle did not make me go blind.It was a virus that ate my retinas away,They're, I said it , now everyone get chooching again.......LOL !!
Don't forget that all husband's shops are protected by spell from their wives. Everytime they look inside, nothing is comprehensible, he's safe for now
For those commenters who are having trouble understanding the linguistics of AvE, it really helps to make deductions of the meanings of words through the context of the rest of the phrase. Fortunately, I spent several formative years in western Canada, so I understand the lingo, even speak it under the correct circumstances. It must be said that this guys mastery of the language is bar non superior to ANYONE I have ever encountered. Just poetry. This has become my absolute favorite RU-vid channel.
I spent a better part of a year listening to the EEV Blog feller, AvE has just added a few new words to my lexicon. I don't know who Bob is, but he is a lot of guy's Uncle.
I grew up in the south Appalachians and slang often varies by the hollers so you start to get good at quickly interpreting what people mean till you fully learn their words.
Those 'cracks' you saw look a lot like knit lines (also called weld lines). It happens where two 'fronts' of molten plastic meet after flowing around an obstruction, which is why it often occurs around holes in injection moulded stuff.
I like it that you explain WHY a machine is good or bad by taking it apart and showing us what is going on inside. This is much more interesting and useful than the usual product demo/evaluation videos. Also, I learned a new word: skookum. What a great word!
4:00 The cracks are actually "knit lines" where plastic flowed around parts of the mold and met back together. It's a normal thing for injection molded parts.
I can't lie, he went down a notch or two not knowing what knit lines are. He speaks with a pretty high authority in a lot of areas and knit lines are very basic.
Those "cracks" in the base are most likely weld lines in the part. Weld lines are where the material flows around an island in the mold (grill hole for example) and meets back up on the other side. Most parts have them somewhere but they are not usually that visible. They can be weak spots particularly with fiber reinforced material because the fibers are not cross linked very well at the weld line and the material may not have fuse back together properly. Severe weld lines can be a result of a poorly designed part, incorrect gating (injection points)in the mold, the molding process (temperatures, pressures, time) incorrect material for the application or poor venting of gases that get trapped inside the mold. Most of the time its from the molder running the process too cool and fast so the cycle time is short as possible which means more $$. I once designed a 40% carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic polyurethane part and the weld line was so weak you could snap it with your fingers but the rest of it wouldn't break with a hammer.
I grew up in a small farm town surrounded by idiots who called me gay for being "smart" and wanting to learn, which made me stop paying attention in school and really drop off the wagon. I've never been excited about learning new things since then... But watching your videos(this one in particular) has actually sparked that back up in me. Thanks man. You rock.
Yo, you'd probably like a channel I just recently found called ZNA Productions, the dude makes stuff that even the farm town idiots would find cool. He kind of reminds me of AvE a bit too although he's younger.
Get yourself into trade school as an electromechanic and get to think like him. Except he has a touch of chemistry and electronics knowledge that's beyond tradesmen level. But still, very attainable.
+AvE Those "Cracks" are not "cracks". They are weld lines/ flow lines where the plastic flows around the features in the mold and meets together again. Doesn't mean the mold has cracks.
Ben Wallace but if the manufacturer but in some extra effort by vibration on the mold and keeping the molten plastic hot just a little longer, then the weld lines would not form like that unless it was taking the shape of imperfections in the mold.
Also, regarding the anodized aluminum heat sinks... if there was forced air, then yes bare Al would be more efficient by taking advantage of convection. But since there is no forced air, radiation is the primary transfer method, and the anodized surface has emissivity 45% greater than bare metal.
Exactly, this is why almost all of these small board level heatsinks are black anodized aluminum. You actually have to try hard to find ones which are NOT!
+Dirtyharry70585 I think it's more like, "Hey Honey, you know what'd be fun? Me, tearing through that there doohickey!" "The Blendtec? Mister, if you're getting it, then it's mine. If you even scratch it, you're sleeping outside."
"Cracks" in the bottom ventilation slots is a moulding fault called Weld Lines or Knit lines ....Weld lines occur in plastic injection molded parts in the area or plane where two or more streams of material fuse together as the mold cavity fills with material. Injection temperature and pressure not optimised..Or mould too cold ..Thanks GOOGLE..
We called those flow lines. The wiped booger looking crap is called splay which can be from oil. The plastic is toted in gaylords as small pellets coated in oil to keep them from sticking.
But weld lines would show on both sides of the part. Also the gate location seems like it wouldn't cause that (obviously I could be wrong on that, I've only seen the part in a video).
Christopher Parsons I'm still not buying it. It is possible, but based on what I saw I'd expect weld lines in a different place, if at all. I'm an unemployment grocery bagger
+Owen Williams there's more than just pouring plastic into a mould. It's done by a press that shoots 500 to 800 degree F plastic into a tool that's probably the size of your car. The press actually presses the two halves of the tool and one side of the tool is heated while the other half is cooked with water. The valves in the stationary side of the tool open up on timed increments to fill the cavity properly and to keep flow lines in certain areas on the visible surface along with other things. It is a very interesting and complex process.
+Christopher Parsons I understand injection molding, I just would expect any weld lines to be about 2/3rds down those vanes or even pushed into the open space past the vanes based on the gate location. 5 years dog park sanitation worker.
30:00 Yea the company probably saved 5 cents by omitting it last minute for the 50/50 chance you want the buttons to beep when you push em. I'd be willing to bet that if you went and found one of those 10mm piezoelectric, soldered it in there, your blender buttons now beep at you.
I've been in IT (networking, computers), for over 15 years, fancy myself pretty knowledgeable, but I am absolutely *humbled* by your videos. It really puts into perspective that for all I think I know, I know *nothing*, John Snow. Thank you so much for making these, and for your genuine enthusiasm in "nerding out" over cool components, and being rightfully indignant over bad ones. I plan on going through the backlog of every one of your videos. Such great stuff. Thank you so much.
AvE, I just wanted to tell you that regardless of what you tear down, it is always entertaining and educational. I work on large electrical / mechanical devices for a living that are fairly expensive. My QC background had me inspecting them as I worked on them a decade ago. Short story long, I lost the curiosity of checking things out. Watching your vids has brought that passion back. Now I find myself rattling off design flaws non-stop to girls half my age at work while getting the fucking dumbest looks when I explain the basics of thermal expansion and contraction on PMMA. Just wanted to say thanks!
Hi there !! Fantastic first part and as always a right giggle,especially when your inner hacking demon noticed a potential for mischief. This episode even had a shout out to a certain blind tree carcass molester. ( Namely , me !! ) Seriously..Thanks for my shout out.All being well we might just have inspired a couple more people who suffer from certain life issues to get chooching in whatever way floats their boat. As we say in these here parts.... " You are a top bloke !! " Ciao for now !! Chris.
For those that didn't know... the reason the heatsink is anodized black isn't for durability reasons (durability is immaterial in this context). It's because matte black is the best at radiating heat. So in addition to the heatsink cooling by conduction (direct contact with air) and convection (heating the air which rises and pulls new colder air next to it), it also radiates heat (like a lightbulb or the sun). The purpose of a heatsink is of course to remove heat, so every little bit helps. Except, as AvE pointed out, when conduction is the only thing of concern (between two surfaces), then it would be better clear.
+MattsAwesomeStuff This case it's for volatile acids in the kitchen and the skin oil/dirt of the assembler. You can end up with a half mm crust of bad aluminum after four or five years on these things.
It's a thyristor that's doing the work. You can tell that it's not being rectified because those tiny little puny diodes would never survive the turn-on current (or even the operating current) of the motor. So they HAVE to be switching AC. This also explains why there is an RPM sensor: without that, it's impossible to know well enough what the motor is doing because just plain old phase-cut dimming (which is what a thyristor does) is highly nonlinear and the voltage on your mains is not generally a clean sinewave. Investigative electronics!
That guy is not COMPLETELY blind. He is "legally blind", meaning that his vision is bad enough to get that status, but he's not entirely blind, he can still see a little bit.
Man am I glad I stumbled across this. I know nothing of what you were really talking about or why, but the delivery was awesome. I'll be subscribing just because of your vernacular.
+Paul Frederick Meh, doesn't really matter. I am a programmer and internally, there are lots of spelling errors in comments and commit messages. You just stop caring, takes too much work to fix.
Met Chris the blind wood turner at the Uk&I Woodturning Symposium (Sorry AvE) and he is a great guy! He asked one of the exhibitors if they had used a wet brick to sand a piece he was feeling! Had me in stitches, great to see him on my favourite RU-vid channel!
Could that "SP1" missing part in the board possibly be for an optional beeper or speaker that beeps when a button is pressed, or when the blender gets jammed, etc?
Hey AvE, i just wanted to give a shout out and thanks for the little intermission but about "'Cant' versus WILL". It's guys like you and Chris that inspire other "Do-ers" around the world. When I was still in school for my automotive mechnic schooling, i had met a gentleman by the name of Jay Blake and he is a Pit Crew chief for his own NHRA drag racing team and he is completely blind. Before his accident he used to race as well aa do all the mechanical stuff. Even after his accident, he still is very very hands on with the cars and all the rebuilds and tear-downs. He didnt stop doing what he loved. Sorry i rambled there for a bit, just thought i would share. Love what you're doing and I got my coworkers hooked. Keep wrenching and wrecking
if you have any questions about infection holding er injection molding, feel free to ask. I have done some time in the old squeeze and squirt factories. looks like the surface imperfections are due to moisture in the material and the "cracks" in tbe louvresrezar (
I actually work at the Blendtec factory in Orem Utah, and handle all these parts that go in to these blenders every day. We now make the entire motor assembly in house and it is much better. It was way cool watching you take this blender apart knowing I've stood in the exact spot where that blender was assembled. You should get a new one from off the shelves today and have a peak, if you get the chance😉.
I mean they are better than say a shark or hoover bagless by a long shot. But they fall short in their price point. Simplicity, miele, and used Kirby all work far better and can be found in the 500 to 700 price range. Honestly I was a huge Dyson fan until I got my simplicity. Way better on all fronts. Better filtration, more durable, better suction, kevlar belt, easy to change the bag, the bag also closes to keep dust contained. I've also not had nearly the issues with clogs I had with my Dyson. I have a dog and wife that both shed year fucking round and endlessly I had to have the Dyson taken apart to clear the clog of hair.
Just a note on you first plastic part, that mold is in most cases perfectly fine. It's the setup for the plastic injection that is most likely off (by a lot). Those marks coming from the bosses look like splay, and the stress marks in the vent holes can be caused by improper cooling, bad knitting, and or bad venting of built up gasses, also mold release not enough or to much.
+intagliode Exactly.. AKA knit lines.Did a google and posted before seeing this..Weld Lines or Knit lines ....Weld lines occur in plastic injection molded parts in the area or plane where two or more streams of material fuse together as the mold cavity fills with material. Injection temperature and pressure not optimised..Or mould too cold ..Thanks GOOGLE..
SP1 is most likely a speaker- it's perfectly sized for a Piezo Buzzer. Aluminum oxide is an excellent thermal conductor. Black anodized heat sinks always work better than metallic colored ones (anodized or non anodized) because a significant amount of heat is lost through radiation.
It's like stand-up comedy for nerds. You have me laughing most of the way through your episodes with your euphemisms and whatnots. Keep up the great vids!
_"Of tools and workshop stuff... It's like a gas, it just expands to fill any volume."_ Truer words! Converted one of my apartment bedrooms into a workshop type dealy... ya know, hoping to contain the spread, as it were. Even gotst myself a couple fancy dollarstore baskets as distinctly dedicated piles of stuff. And still every now and then tools and accoutrements just decide to tour the rest of my house.
This might be old news now but it looks like that bearing ground also grounds the armature shaft. I'd expect that. Any motor core that is being driven by PWM, including VFD driven 3 phase induction motors, can develop an inductive kick in the armature when the current changes rapidly (PWM turn on/off and brush disconnect). If you don't ground the armature, it may develop a static charge which will eventually arc through the bearings, killing them quickly. Also, I think the unpotted field windings are easier to cool than if they are encapsulated. Since the machine sits on the counter, there isn't as much need for potting that part of the motor. Thanks for all your shows!
MAN!!! 400 Bucks, and a chep arse plasticy owd jug. I'd have expected a Pyrex one for that kinda loot. And that moulded base/bottom part was shocking, what about QC?
yep - better off with the Polycarbonate. indestructible as far as this purpose is concerned. Pyrex is great, but the Poly has more than 0 give, meaning it'll survive a hell of a lot better in the long run. gimme a Pyrex bowl over a plastic one any day, but for this purpose, definitely go with the Polycarbonate.
Always amazed at how much I have yet to learn about engineering. I build and sell guns for a living and thought I knew my stuff, not anymore. You know more about plastics and engineering than I ever will.
Plastic injection molding process tech here. Those arent cracks in the ABS plastic- those are weld lines. Happens every time plastic is forced around an obstacle (in this case the vent holes) and then meets itself on the other side. The mold is not cracked. This is normal.
I love the frankness of the video's. As a tool lovin' person it's really cool to see some of these things torn down with actual knowledge about the parts and materials used. Thank you so much for making these, and the laughs along the way! :D
I look forward to a world where knowledgeable reviewers like this are subscribed to by tens of millions, and companies have to care about quality, develop great tools through and through, and send these channels their products to begin with when released.
i need to get a good sleep tonight. me at 2am: i do wonder if the cracks on the bottom of this blender go all the way through or not, better keep watching.
Perhaps worth mentioning that with regard the "heat transfer film" (silpad) between the power device and heatsink [edit: can in some cases not necessarily this] be for electrical isolation - if it didn't need to be electrically isolated then thermal grease and a direct connection [edit: may] be used. Remove the silpad and you're more than likely going to in the best case short the thing out and she go bang [edit: on this device that depends if the rivet is also isolated by way of a plastic or other sleeve/washer, if it's not then it is naturally electrically connected anyway and they used a silpad because maybe it was easier than paste or something, I can't see in the video because I only watch in potato quality]. Also, the heatsink is black because it actually has a considerable effect on the ability of a heatsink to radiate the heat, so you wouldn't want to be stripping all the black off, just at the interface. [edits to stop people who don't read threads before replying ]
I don't think they cared too much for isolating the heatsink on this design because it looks like the MOSFET is riveted directly to the heatsink with an aluminum rivet. And I think the main reason it's anodized is to control corrosion because you don't want crap forming between the block and your part or corrosion forming and falling off into your board.
I've read the comments on injection molding, and they make sense to me. I don't have any experience in injection molding, but I have some in extrusion. The product we produced had an embossed pattern, and used heated wheels to produce it. The after effect of this was that material would accumulate on the embossing wheel after so many hours, regardless of the application of inhibitives like silicone spray or WD-40. The only reason I can come up with is the temperature differential between the temperature required to emboss an acceptable pattern and the melting point of the plastic we were using caused a sort of oxidation that was then deposited on the embossing wheel. Seems to me that, in injection molding, the mold temperature would have to be kept in a goldilocks zone that allowed good flow while also allowing some cooling for release and still be ready for the next part. That may result in a build up of oxidated material on the mold that is not cleaned between maintenance.
I LOVE your videos! By the way, the input choke isn't "for things to not get fried". It is to prevent high frequency switching noise from the FET chopper circuit from feeding back into the power lines of the house. It's called "RF conducted emissions". It's regulated by, in the US, the FCC. Not sure about Canada. But you can't just plug in a high frequency switching device to the house wiring without protecting the rest of the stuff in the house from the noise produced.
31:00 - I've actually tested precisely this back when I was a wee bugger. The anodizing makes very little difference. I could not measure it. Probably ~0.05degK/W. That nice thermal pad they have there would be ~0.5degK/W
A note about the black anodization on the heatsink. Since it is aluminum, it is naturally going to form an oxide layer, so having it anodized only slightly decreases the thermal conduction. This loss is more than made up for by having it black, which makes a much more significant improvement to the thermal conduction.
Great to see a genuine, for the love of it, human being being INTERESTING! No click bait, just chooching. Thanks for the content - I'm content with the chooch factor
Samuel Ellis bought a refurb 3.5 years ago. She's still chooching along. Went through a few warranty jars, but the design changed each time, and so far, the current one has lasted. Seems like the bearing problem is much better.
You owe me a new coffee, I spit mine across the room with the line you used to exit. I'm gonna collect all those and do a "AvE does public service announcements" video. Because, you know, hot coffee is hot, and common sense, ain't.
OH, you're talking about a blender brand from right here in Orem, Utah! I shot a video for the owner, Tom Dixon, at a grocery store a few years ago! Tom let 280-pound me jump onto one of his jars several times and it would NOT break! Then he chopped up a broom handle and gave me the jar with that whole handle in it and a chunk sticking out of the top, haha! "As long as I don't see it on ebay." -- "No, of course not!" And yes, I still do have it, of course! Great memorabilia.
