Grab some G54 merch here - www.en.garage5... Promocode "garage54" In this episode we test another popular myth and see whether there's something to it. For business inquiries: promotion@garage54.ru
We have an additive in the USA called "Restore" that works on a simular principle. Every time ive seen it reviewed it did add compression. "Project Farm" is a youtube channel that has a video on it.
Added a bottle of that stuff to my old 97 Volvo S70 T5 with 370k miles. Significantly reduced boost lag and gave me a fairly good boost in overall power, I could actually get it to spin tires in first gear lol. Seemed to last past the following oil change, as well.
@@jd7896 my 98 T5 is approaching 350k. She's definitely not as strong as she used to be. Might have to try Restore. Still roasts tires in first, second in the wet.
@@johndeerekid167 My 1999 Volvo V70R has 331K miles/534K kilometers on the clock. On dry tarmac 225 Michelin tires are BARELY holding it in check. With a high tendency to set traction control on ;-) . Yet I'm still assembling a brand new engine under the stairs. As a reserve, since they don't make them any longer.
I watched some videos on it and I'm eager to try that stuff. Unfortunately there is no way to buy it in Europe. I tried looking at these package forwarders but they are super expensive to ship a couple bottles to Austria. I also want to try out seafoam on some of my cars and tractors but I can't get that either.. What a shame
@@SteveEh That and most likely fault for the low oil pressure is from a worn oil pump which I did not see them copper coat. Regardless this method is half assed patchwork at best that I could only even remotely understand being used on certain parts in situations where there is literally NO parts availability anymore or is extremely cost prohibitive.
@@LKN117 Vlad did mention the oil pump was coated, but that doesn't really matter. For all the good that did, they would have been better off with a couple of coats of copper spray paint.
You misunderstand the 107%, its a racing term that comes from the old 107% rule in Formula 1among others. It simply mean that youre within the acceptable bracket with a qualifying time that is max 107% of the fastest time. 105% is better, 108% is failure, 101% is awesome. Also Vlad uses the term incorrectly some times.
Dont put new oil, compression and oil pressure will be affected. Either change oil before establishing a baseline, or reuse the old oil for testing. I understand that Bardahl want them to show their product but back when Bardahl sponsored Emerson Fittipaldi in Formula 1 Emerson didnt have to show that he topped up his F1 car from a Bardahl oil can, a small sticker on his helmet was enough. By the way, Ole Bardahl was a Norwegian immigrant to USA and was active in sponsoring small motorsport teams, Fittipaldi is famous as an F1 driver but the Fittipaldi Copasucar F1 team was small and not great.
Paused @7:25. I think it will result in some little bbs and flakes in the lower part of the engine, (oil pan) after running it a short time. It should help the oil pressure until it clogs up the filter. Compression could go up but not for long. Worst case it locks up shortly after starting up.
My assumption (based on the product applied being some sort of goop containing finely-powdered copper, and not an electroless plating solution - methinks the label said something about "antiseptic", which to me hints at colloidal copper) was likewise that it would mainly end up in the filter. A filter dissection would have been informative.
I use a product called " RESTORE " in my old 4.0 inline 6 cylinder Jeep every oil change. It raised the Compression back to normal & I can feel the difference but you have too use it every or every other oil change, It does wear off.
I believe the pressure gauge is showing wrong numbers. 0 PSI of oil pressure at idle can´t be right, even in an old worn out engine. I should make a lot more noise at 0 PSI
I really wish that you would have used a pour in treatment method, since about anyone who is going to remove their engine and completely disassemble it is going to use New parts to rebuild it since using a method such as this has no guarantee to work. Only New Parts can give you that promise........... In other words I would never use this method, nor could I ever talk Any of my customers into paying all the labor to have the same old parts as before....... Not a chance........ I was soooooo excited about the vid when I thought you was testing a pour in product....... This 1 happened to be useless in my situation........
Chemist here, what you guys did was not adding copper, you swapped the Iron or aluminum metal with the copper, the copper sulfate, which I assume you used here, reacts to form Aluminum/Iron Sulfate which goes out in the water, while the copper metal deposits itself. Copper is denser which means you'd actually be losing width technically, and it wouldn't plate evenly, I bet you'd have a lot of copper dust falling off since it doesn't bond on quite well. The correct/better way to do the plating is to get a different ionic salt, like Iron Sulfate, something that is sturdy and wouldn't react with the metal, and use electrolysis, by putting a positive electrode in the solution, and connect the negative electrode to the engine block. I bet you'd get significantly better results that way. An efficient way to do this is to seal up the bottom of each bore and put a positive electrode suspended in the middle, preferably graphite, like found in a pencil, and connect the negative terminal of the power source to the block, then fill the bore with the Iron sulfate, this will allow the iron in the iron sulfate solution to move towards the surface and deposit itself due to the electric charge, you can use a full car battery as a power source here. Immediately after being done, Id say its safe to do so when the battery is low or after an hour, you can pour out the solution quickly and test the new cylinder. If you want a better visual you can use a sulfate of a different metal with a nicer color so long that it doesn't react with the iron without electricity. I really hope to see this method in a future video as it makes a lot of sense chemistry wise on paper. I hope the translator can pass this message onto you!
@@mikeyprice7663 expensive and you won't get much thickness, also chrome is resistant to wearing out from weather and water, not friction unfortunately. What we saw in this video wasn't plating, it was more like replacing the top layer. I think any sort of plating will make a good difference but it'll depend on thickness and durability of the material. Cost is definitely a big factor so iron was my best thought for cost effectiveness and to prove a point :)
In steam engines, its quite common for folks to "brass" off worn parts to stave off failure, if done right brassed off parts could gain several microns and have heard the term used by Lambretta owners who brassed stuff off to prevent heatseizing as the brassing would respond well to 2t oiling. Brassing is done today by intense heat rubbed over with a brass wire brush but back in the day a simple bar stock of good brass rubbed over a heated area produced a decent "plating" whether it worked or not is another debate lol
No i think youre thinking of leading a car.. they used to do that stuff for body work. Heat up the metal panals and rub lead, let it melt and drip then shave it down.. before bondo i guess.. only treating ive heard of old motors was electro plating, like on old steamers, locomotives n such.. if you just heat steel or aluminum and rub brass on it the stuff wont stick. Just like trying to solder aluminum. The lead content in the solder has to be high in order to stick and brass has just a little tin in it.. dunno.. i say nay but ill believe ya i guess.. theres just certain temps and thin ranges where certain stuff will adhere to other certain stuff.. if youve ever tried to braze aluminum with the special rods then youd know that you got a window before the aluminum will just melt and that window is short and right at that point..
@@Z-Ack damn near everything you said was correct to my knowledge. But you can absolutely heat steal and rub brass off on it. It’s a very common trick for black smiths and knife makers.
Nickel plated pistons do exist. The plating helps against microwelding on the rings that causes ring sticking and also reduce the chance of "smelting" on the crown by actually rendering the surface harder than the base aluminum to an extent
I think the removal of the rings did more for the compression than anything, I have had lawnmower engines, that smoked, the compression was low, I removed the rings cleaned everything with scotch bright pads, including the bore! It ran like new, even with the old rings, it got it's compression back, stopped smoking, I think I de glazed the bore with 220 or 400 grit sand paper, I just remember using a lot of that grit paper, and that is what I had them. 👍 Not too bad, I don't know how long it lasted!
@@daniesalex7073 electro plating works on anything that can conduct electricity man.. Is it appropriate? thats a better question. Nikasil plating for engine cylinders works, but is very touchy and requires multiple steps in a clean-room setting. it improves wear characteristics of the cylinder wall, by leaving a hard plate deposit through electroplate. You could electroplate any metal onto another, but you would have to prepare the surface thoroughly.
They would need to find a way to make it cold air. The turbo would eventually get hot and just push hot air through. They would need an inter cooler they could load with ice
You don't want high oil pressure. If the pressure is to high the oil coming out of the oiling holes will push the crankshaft into the other bearing. You want the oil to go all the way around the part needed to be lubricated.
Probably the increased compression and the slightly better oil pressure in the start was due to the fresh engine oil😅. Nice job thou you guy's,keep it up!
But wont the oil filter crab them, specially if its used filter since more crap there is on the filter smaller and smaller stuff is will catch but this comes with expense of flow?
By now these guys must've become an official Lada partner, theres no way an opportunity like that would slip the company by. Hell, if the russian government is serious and really does want to make a new Moskwich car, they should ask Garage 54 to come up with something!
@@kingdom_lights Well no, the factory lines for tanks are frozen by a lack of parts from abroad, all they can do is cannibalize other tanks for spares. Though a recent interview with someone from the industry said that "Its impossible to build a Moskwich from scratch, we need foreign help with that" hence my comment.
@@DarkestVampire92 pretty sure they get the parts from China,middle East or India only the western countries blocked Russia you still have 60% of the world population
@@DarkestVampire92 "the factory lines for tanks are frozen by a lack of parts from abroad" Which was already a propaganda lie two Months ago. Same with, "they will run out of missiles soon". That aged well, they are still happily calibrating targets, they also did not starve, freeze to death or lose. Who exactly is "someone from the industry"?
😁 me too man I never have 90% of the problems people complain about on engines... I also perform all scheduled maintenance before the last minute (I do mean all, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant, differentials, transfer cases, everything) and I replace parts when they just start looking worn - before they catastrophically fail. 248k miles on my 28 year old car, runs flawlessly, doesn't consume oil or leak it. Funny how that works.
@@uberschnilthegreat22 it's not the first one they've had on this channel running but with 0psi at idle because yeah I agree it makes no sense at all. Even if it view out an internal seal somewhere there would still be SOMETHING above 0 youd think
You're using a 500 PSI gauge for measuring oil pressure. You've got no way to tell what the actual oil pressure is at idle. You'll never be able to tell the difference between 0 and 30 PSI. I don't even know what you'd have a 500 PSI gauge in the shop for.
@@nicostenfors5690 I guess, but when's the last time you had to test the relief valve pressure on a power steering system? On the old Saginaw pumps you either just throw the whole pump away or take relief valve apart clean it and stick it back in. Never once have I had to measure or adjust it. In a more modern pump there's nothing serviceable on it.
I just remember my Uncle Melvin had a 47-52 GMC in-line 6, 226 or 228 cu.in. This was the era that nothing was thrown away, you repaired it. They would take the rods out and pour a babbit alloy for the new bearing. It seems to be about the same as you have done, just a different procedure. The babbitt was lead, tin, and copper!
I heard about those babbit bearings from an old school mechanic years ago. Now days everyone just blows em up and buy another car from dealer, same with their phones and everything else.
Would be a good test to put it in a car and drive it round a track for several miles or kilometres, see how long the copper layer lasts and keeps the compression up, or not...
Man I haven't seen anybody try this trick in 30 years at least. It does sort of work. It's no cure-all but it can stretch the life of an old engine out. Then again, if you are doing a full teardown you might as well do a full rebuild. Why go through all the trouble to pull the engine just to leave the job half finished?
@@MetalY2KMusic Broke and with lots of time. Always been easier for me to by a new engine. Also by "new" I mean used from the scrap yard. Gotta love the interchangeability of American engines in the mid 20th century. I'm especially a fond of the four cylinder longitudinal configuration from the period. Front Wheel Drive is cool and all, but a pain to work on. Separating the engine and transaxle requires a delicacy I don't really possess.
I think it'll help,temporarily but as copper is so soft the effect will be short lived. I thought it was going to be an engine additive as if u take it apart to copper treat it u might as well rebuild it
There's a product in the USA that's called "Restore", it have micro particles of brass in a base stock oil mix that you add to the engine crank case... I've used in with great long lasting success (Over 150k miles)in engines to bring up the compression and oil psi..
Maybe try RVS, it's a Finnish product that's designed to do what the copper coating here is supposed to do. Don't even need to disassemble the engine, just add it into the oil as per the instructions. Seen it revive some worn engines, smoothing out compression across cylinder and in my previous car it completely muffled lifter tick when cold.
In America they have a product called "Engine Restore & Lubricant". You can buy it at Walmart or any typical automotive store. It has a superfine copper in it. I have used it with good results! Project Farm tried it on his old tractor. He was very impressed with its results. Now he uses it once a year now as a preventive maintenance to keep his cylinder compression up.
I would not trust that oil pressure gauge. I would test it on a good running engine and see what it says. Having zero oil pressure, that engine would have been knocking.
No I don't think it's going to work. But after saying that I notice this is a Tik Tok hack so I change my mind it's going to work 3000% You can always trust Tik Tok for accurate information.
At time stamp 7:23 I am going to say that it should work. After coating with copper, it looked really good. I'm no mechanical genius but I think it will work. Atleast for a little while, maybe 15 to 20 minutes before it returns to it's worn state.
Didn't Volvo get 1 million miles on their engines for a reason? My point is, find a good Lada engine. You can big miles out if those tin box cars. I WISH I was there. Cause I could show you guys so much!
There are piston coatings from a company cslled Top Line Coatings that was on Steve Morris channel and he had it applied to his pistons and those pistons showed no wear making 3 runs without realizing his oil pump belt came off. 4500 hp engine.
Do any of you know if a 78 000 kilometre lada engine 1500 needs a rebuild or it should be fine. It has a loose timing chain but I don't know how the kilometres affect the other parts of the engine
Couple not-too-bright con artists who know nothing about engines. Copper is too soft a metal to use in engines. Even the copper tubes that were once used on early aircraft to carry engine oil from tank to engine had to be removed and re-tempered regularly because they would work harden and crack. Bardahl, STP, Seafoam, whatever, it is all hogwash. The only thing you need to put in an engine is oil that meets the engine manufacturer's specifications.
Change the oil pump.. and stick the engine in you daily driver, but follow the car with a tow truck..for a few days, before sticking it on the used car lot.. LoL
this wouldn't last. as the copper work hardens it'll become brittle, and flake off and now you got copper shards floating about your engine. still a cool experiment.
Honest. I didn’t see you guys do anything to the camshaft and journal bearings. I’d imagine the cam/journal bearings would be what you’d want to coat to raise oil pressure.
It looks like copper sulfate which doesn't Bond very well but maybe it will friction weld a layer of copper and work a little bit for a while. That's my guess for looking at the comments or watching the rest of the video
I wonder if the copper could just be poured into the cylinders thru the plug hole. Bottom stroke the cylinder, fill it up, let it sit a bit, the rotate to top stroke. IDK I don't think this is worth trying if you have to tear into the engine. Bore scope the cylinders to see what they look like!
Something called engine restor have a lot of copper and zink in it. It's supposed to help worn-out engines and it helps with compression it really does actually work but not on engines that are too worn out
Of course that is not worth doing with the copper all that effort tearing the engine down and rebuilding it you could’ve done a real rebuild with cylinder piston rings bearings and oil pump and everything else
That gage used for the oil pressure is not correct. It’s too high of a pressure rated gage so it’s not accurate at low pressure when you psi is going to be 100 you should only be using a 100psi gage.
sawdust in the oil was a true fact did it in our old wheel horse lawn mower but it didn't have a oil filter so maybe try this and bypass the oil filter.
If it feels The voice you should see an increase in compression and oil pressure will work to the wise tick tock is a doorway for the Chinese government to listen in on your conversations exercise caution
