Grab some G54 merch here - www.en.garage54.ru/ Promo code 'garage54' In this episode we try something suggested by our Russian viewers that we thought was pretty funny. Hope you enjoy! For business inquiries: promotion@garage54.ru
That actually ended up being a good exercise in engineer's blue - a machinist technique for checking wear and tolerances by painting a surface and watching where it gets scratched.
@D Hristov Dykem steel dye, in red, green, blue and yellow brush on or spray type. Fun fact, the machinist will use it more then the engineer. Die and tool makers will use it more the the machinist. One wonders why people call it engineer blue?
I told my wife I am certain you guys all have a daily meeting, eat and laugh and pitch bad ideas in an open forum, write down those ideas, place them into a hat pick one at random and roll with it. Am I close in that assumption? If so please keep doing exactly that...I think you guys would be fun to hang out with. The car guy ex metal fabricator in me enjoys what you do.
I doubt I will ever paint a cylinder. Just over boar or hon the cylinders and use appropriate rings. Awesome video guys. I always enjoy seeing what Garage 54 is up to. You do some very interesting projects. They are great. I have been a mechanic for 30 years and a lot of what you guys do I have wondered but never had the time or drive. Awesome videos guys!!!!
Have you ever wanted to buy some piece of shit beater to do all these crazy ass things to? Like granted, I would never do shit like this to my actual car hahaha
this is for sure a mechanics fantasy channel lol. cant believe they have welded 2 separate motors together and made made their own cranks and cams and they all worked. crazy stuff.
i also noticed the one he said was down on compression numbers seemed to come out of the car with the rings with the openings lined up. probably explains the low numbers. rings were not put back in correctly possibly?
I have tried this methode. It's cause more damage in the engine. More scratch in cylinder liner/piston, ring piston jammed, oil dilluted, etc. Paint is not oil/fuel resistant. And it's not friction resistant. In first minute with light operatin is ok.
Heat resistant paint is the worst. It's become hard, but not strong enough to survive frome friction. It's causing more scratch in both cylinder liners and piston.
This reminds me of the time long ago when J.B. Weld made a big deal. People in parts shops were reporting that you can use it to repair an engine block. So, my dad thought, if it can fix a block it can fix a cylinder. Her used JB WELD to fill in a deep scratch a piston made when it came apart. (1978 Datsun/Nissan 280Z) He honed it out and it all looked good. We never reopened the engine to see if it held... something tells me no.
To get superior atomization (and finish), just use paint as a fuel additive, and let your injectors do the work. I usually shoot for about 40:1 - 50:1 depending on desired (re)compression ratio.
@@hamood1234fool I havnt tried this but I dont see how it wouldn't clog them. Granted the adhesive properties of the paint should be ruined by the gas especially at a low ratio like 50:1 but still. I cant see this having good results
Thats why I love this channel, even when its clear that it wont turn out well, yall do it anyway to find out what happens. Curiosity is a beautiful thing to behold
Nice experiment! Would love you to try kitchen scouring powder into the intake wilts the engine is running. Apparently the scouring powder will "hone" the cylinders, allowing the rings to bed in/seat again, and because the powder is a chemical, will burn off after doing its job leaving no residue. Would be awesome if you could try that one!
Yeah, or if you're really desperate, you could clean the cylinder with solvent, plug the bottom of the cylinder, fill it with nickel acetate tetrahydrate, basically nickel dissolved in acetic acid, easy to make at home. Dangle a nickel rod or plate in the centre of the cylinder, give the block a negative charge and the nickel a positive charge, then wait for a few days until it builds up a good amount on the cylinder walls. Then hone to the desired size. You could also dissolve silicone carbide into the nickel solution, but that adds to the complexity. However it would make the coating very hard. You could also chrome plate the cylinder, but you run the risk of killing yourself with the fumes (cyanide gas).
From my own opinion the heat resistent spray paints are absolutely useless thanks for the experiments you did for all. The viewers, thanks to your important experiments😎
perhaps a good follow-up test would be to coat the cylinders with the black paint, then lightly run a cylinder hone through each one after the paint as cured to leave only the scratches filled with paint. It would make the scratches show more obviously, and would avoid the rings being fouled by excess paint.
Try "Bon Ami" powder cleaner, old guys used to do this when the rings got bad on an old engine, you get the engine running and sprinkle some down the carb.
At first I thought you were doing the old trick of painting a head gasket to reuse. And of course that works well. As an engine builder I cringed this one! The silver stuffed into the rings closing up the ring to groove clearance. That attributed to the added compression. And moving the rings around while they were out likely had an effect as well. Interesting results but revving on a shop floor wont show the heat and EGTs that it would have under load. And that would roast any residual paint lol. Whats next?
I liked and I shared on Twitter I was laughing so hard I seen how you was trying to tell if this is a video coming off Tik Tok and trying to keep the smile off your face ear to ear I thought you was going to try and laughing any second
Well, it DID improve the compression of the three cylinders that were badly lacking it. Not by much, but hey. I guess you should only paint the ones that are very badly damaged and not the ones that are still good, or you make those worse.
Good video. A WAY to make guys think about the sealing of piston vs rings in a cylinder. I believe the PISTONS job is to hold the rings in place perpendicular to the cylinder and transfer power to the rod and crank.PISTONS should never contact the cylinder walls.The oil and clearance prevent contact.The rings job is to seal so THEY >DO
There's an aerospace version of this stuff, though it's heat-cured and cycled at least three times for proper application. Also of note, it's normally used on static surfaces without direct contact, normally as a heat barrier to melting things that are either in motion or in an exhaust housing/tube but not riding against another material. I've also seen a race shop use it on the top of pistons, though again, this is a heat barrier and not a contact surface. I've used a ton of it on turbine housings and for that purpose, it's quite excellent. Also not too shabby on firearms, where heat is momentary but contact surfaces are fairly minimal. Applied thinly, it's a wear item.
"But I saw it on the internet, it's gotta work and be true!" When Vlad starts laughing at even the concept of some moron's suggestion, you know it is doomed to fail in spectacular fashion.
I would love to see that and being a former residential HVAC tech. I couldn't really think of how you would do that. Just pressuring the system with straight refrigerant wouldn't work.
Might work to help hide defects for a quick sell but I wouldn't call it a long term fix, maybe look into plating or adding an Oxide layer to the head and pistons finishing with a halfway decent polish
I agree with most, on the craziness of this idea. And it worked as expected. However I wonder if cera-coat would work to fill in the cylinder scratches better and last? Also im curious, did you reused the old rings? Or new?
@@dimitar4y I disagree. I've use cera-coat on engine internals multiple times. On small engines though. And it works great on pistons, heads and the block to help with heat. Never put it in ring glands or on cylinder walls yet, but id like to see it tried.
@@dimitar4y not to sound rude but do you understand cera-coat is a ceramic coating? I believe, but not sure, it's applied like powder coating. It's a pretty strong bond.
Some high temp paints need to be heated to cure it wonder if they used the Oxyacetylene or something to cure it before assembly it would hold up better
Until a certain point - the higher viscosity oil will increase pressure but lower the overall flow. Tried it many times and with thicker oil, lifter tick was much worse...you can starve and destroy the entire engine if you go too far.
@@tadeashorak7584 if they're bad hydraulic lifters chances are a 5w oil will get them operate much better, however for increasing compression on an engine, an oil that leaves thicker film on the cylinders tends to fake the result of an increased compression as far as that oil is used. However an engine that takes advantage of a thicker oil compression wise, chances are would take a favor but then would be hit on a different spot which is lifter operation, oil starving, etc, to the point parts might suffer from extra wear, including the oil pump, not to mention it wont rotate as freely and would cause extra drag when revving. A compression so bad it needs thick oil to work, more or less means the engine needs an overhaul anyways.
The gas is inside of a cylinder go well above 2,000° Fahrenheit, the cooling system keeps your engine quite cool comparatively speaking, but the thing is the materials used are all typical metals you would expect, like iron and aluminum, whereas paint is not the same structure as a metal. Metals can transfer and absorb heat energy very fast, that's why metals feel cool to the touch. It is not because they are colder, they are typically the same temperature as room temperature. It is that it is absorbing the heat from your finger at a fast rate because it's conductive. Paint on the other hand isn't so conductive of heat, by the time the heat energy transfers through the paint and is absorbed into the metal and then absorbed into the water, there's already too much heat built up in the paint waiting to be absorbed by the cylinder wall. The paint then burns up very quickly, in some areas but oil and fuel contribute to the cooling process, as well as the influx of cool air. So only hotspots would burn off the paint, well hotter spots Every engine has a thrust side, when that crank arm comes up it comes up on an angle and pushes at the bottom of the piston on a slight angle, pushing one side of the piston against the cylinder wall a little harder than the other. This results in one side of the cylinder wall being chewed out a little bit faster than the other over a long period of time. The oil should create a nice thin layer to prevent too much metal on metal contact if any at all, but that oil is put under a lot of pressure and if the materials aren't capable of handling that pressure like the paint, it will give way and the oil will displace it. When it gives way it will lift up and get scraped away It would make no sense at all to use paint, but I am almost sure that 80% of the people here already knew that. instinctively when you see explosions and metal moving around at those rates you would never trust a thin film of paint to be able to withstand that environment. If you ever disassemble your engine, borrow some tools from your local auto store and measure your cylinders. Make sure they are within tolerance of manufacture specs, if they aren't you can bore it out, remember that you want to scratch up those cylinder walls with the proper tool. Back in the day they tried to use Chrome and other metals to make the cylinder wall as smooth as possible and they only found that the oil wouldn't stick and they would burn up their rings and pistons. By scratching the cylinder walls lightly with the proper tool, you make the walls very sticky for that oil making your engine live a very long life. Torque and torque patterns are extremely important, if you torque from one side to the other side and properly you may pinch the gasket and create a spot for the oil or gases to work their way out. And remember to always do your best to cover all holes with tape or clean rags, the last thing you want is a washer or cotter pin, or even an insect crawling into one of those holes and then you sealing up the engine and wondering why you have problems later. If you grease your bolts, your torque specs change. Always make sure it's specifies you lube the bolts and then torque, otherwise look for a torque chart displaying the lube torque as opposed to dry torque. I am high as s*** right now, I don't know why I'm doing this
I have seen folks use rear differential oil in a oil burning engine with blow back issues like this one meaning low compression causes oil & fuel to breech the piston sleeves going on both optional wrong directions. Also have seen folks use aircraft grade 50 weight oil
I think you have to take the edge off the rings so it wouldn't shave the paint on the bores and then it should work..............???lol. This is a true story. Dad and a relation did a rebore on a ford flat head V8. New piston fit was so close that, to see if it would work, they assembled without rings. Well the result was a lot of smoke filled the workshop very quick but, it ran. None the less they stripped it to see what was the damage if any. Apart from a bit of scuffing, cylinders and pistons, it was ok. Assembled correctly and away it went. Oh they did polish the bores out first. Late night and work next morning didn't help was the result.
Greetings from Canada! Hope your doing Well Vlad, i would like to see an engine test just using engine oil stabilizer as lubricant... No oil.... To see if the engine would run and last with just ( engine oil stabilizer or engine treatment " THICK STUFF?"
I think ProjectFarm did a similar test. It's basically like a thick-ish monograde mineral oil like SAE30 but it didn't provide adequate long-term protection alone.
@@Velktron yes...but leave it in the engine as lubricant not drain it out See if a low compression engine would build more using it , see if the engine would run smoother and quieter?
@@DarkLinkAD Well, it "looks" thick when cold if compared to a multograde oil, but somehow In.PF's testing it managed to offer almost no protection, if used by itself.
How high compression could a lada engine get with modified pistons and would you get huge power? F1 cars are stuck until hot oil and water is pumped into them to unstick the pistons
I dont know, if you allready need to disassemble the whole engine, it makes sense to do a normal repair. The paint isnt any good on such places where you need durable stuff, unless you have fun doing this daily 😃
@@superbikesavage9500 first off, that isnt a way to answer someone you got no clue about. Second, if you wish to teach something, then go on, explain yourself. What is the point of the video then?
@@ThePeca1988 to show what hapens in a engine when do replicate a dumb ticktok. They had no intention of rebuilding this engine. They just wanted to put that ticktok to the test. Are you dense ? Or are u playing because the intent here is pretty obvious
Interesting experiment and I really like your thought processes. I wonder if 2 things would have actually made it work better. 1) a very light hone on the cylinder walls to get any high spots or excess paint off. Just lightly to provide a nice, smooth, sealing surface; 2) some type of aluminum treatment of the pistons, like an etch or anodize, before painting and then a VERY slight wet sand with some 1000+ grit sandpaper to smooth out the skirts. Finally, maybe even new rings because let's be honest, who is going to tear down a motor and then not at least replace the rings and do a minimal honing on the cylinders?
Use Devcon steel (liquid steel) like machinists use when they mess up. The burnish the cylinders and polish the pistons so only the scratches and rubbed spots are filled.
Engine Restorer, works like a champ! There are some reviewers here on RU-vid who have tested it - check the one on Project Farm for an example. Shocked him how well it worked. I myself tried it decades ago, with great success, on several cars.
They didn't change the rings did they? I don't know... Painting the walls seems like a pretty stupid idea. But jb welding and honing them leaving only the jb weld on the deep grooves seems to work.
@@theshuff Ça fait des lustres, mais comme j'habitais en ville j'avais pas trop l'occasion de pratiquer ces derniers temps. Là ça fait dans les environs de 5/6 ans que j'ai repris.
