Very sorry about the audio, everyone! Something broke and we had to use Garageband to do... something, I didn't understand what my video guy was doing but it won't happen again
You know when you started there weren't many dedicated boot channels and many manufacturers were hiding their construction, so the lack of clear information was, in hindsight, mind boggling. Your channel has been one of the leaders in informing the public about quality boots. You should be proud of yourself! A few errors among 300 videos is pretty darn good I'd say~
It takes a big man to admit his mistakes. It takes an even bigger man to laugh at that man! Jk brother, kudos to you for continuing to learn and get better- it's inspiring!
How refreshing to see someone flat out admit that they have LEARNED something. I'm still a dilettante in the boot world, but you have helped me to have a better understanding and appreciation of the materials and craftsmanship. Many thanks.
This is absolutely great! It shows humility and honesty. Real men display both. Thank you very much for all your reviews and deep research you do! Keep it up!
CF Stead's suede is a full grain leather, so it's essentially a rough-out leather with a very nicely finished flesh side. Suede can also be a hide where the grain side is almost completely split off, which means is has no structural integrity and has to be held together with a liner. CF Stead's suede is reverse hide, where the finished flesh side is used as the grain side. Also, norvegese construction is the best.
CF Stead make over 30 kinds of suede, some thin some super thick! Many many kinds of suede I learned when I visited them - look out for the video next month!
Nick, don’t be so hard on yourself! We’ve all made mistakes, but keep learning! Hey, you gave us a peek of your Iron Rangers and they’ve lightened quite a bit! They look fantastic!
Great video. I've lived my whole life in the PNW and of course owned several PNW boots (still do). When I heard you say stitch down construction was less water resistant than a goodyear welt I thought "you can tell he doesn't live in the Northwest". But you cleared that up today. The fact that we didn't seem to agree on basic boot construction, didn't stop me from enjoying your content because you know a hell of a lot more about men's fashion than I do and I need as much help as I can get. So, I look forward to more great content to come.
I NEED a shank in my boots, even wedge soles. I was born with just about the flattest feet I've ever encountered, fallen arches, easily rolled ankles etc. Im in my early 40s now, but have been wearing orthotics since I was a teenager, and they were life changing!! I could finally play sports! A couple of years ago I needed new boots for work and jumped on RU-vid and found your videos and several other great boot centric channels. It led to my first purchase of Goodyear welted boots, just some cheap Rockroosters, but I was hooked. The additional stability in goodyear welted and stitchdown boots combined with a shank helps me tremendously. I can wear them all day comfortably, no arch pain, and the stability is huge. I have even been able to move away from the crazy expensive orthotics in favor of Superfeet or Powersteps with zero issues No more rolled ankles either. I now have a half dozen pairs of boots, mostly Jim Green. I actually just received the wedge soled Razorbacks this afternoon. The wide toe box and stitchdown construction, as well as just generally being a fan of their company has been gamechanging for me. Ill go upmarket eventually, but don't feel the need just yet. Great content Nick, and THANK YOU for doing what you do, it is appreciated.
Another tannery to rep is Tennessee Tanning in my hometown of Tullahoma. Their main business is as the official leather supplier of Major League Baseball (all the balls and a good many of the gloves), but they sell modified versions of their glove lace to the public as shoe/boot laces. From what I understand, these are especially hard wearing laces.
I deeply appreciate this type of vid but the audio peaking makes it a bit tough to watch. But I still made it through the end so as to never be considered a hater 😉
Hi Nick How great to see you update some facts. It speaks to the integrity of what you do. And why I always look to you for info on boots and the other stuff you review. Keep up the awesomely researched work!
Well done. Also not all of these are “mistakes”, but some are just clarifications or giving additional context around previous statements. I mention that just to say you didn’t necessarily have all of this “wrong” before. In any case, great video and it’s cool to see how much you’ve grown in the footwear hobby. We’re all learning as we go.
Great video! Regarding shanks, I do think shanks help quite a lot with arch support. The shank is like a bridge between the heel and ball. It doesn’t provide arch support on its own, but it’s a foundation for any arch support that the boot has. And while shanks aren’t strictly necessary on wedge sole boots, they do help a lot for things like standing on a ladder or digging with a shovel.
I’m really glad you did this video. I believed many of these because you said them in previous videos and this was very helpful. That said, the good you have done far outweighs the mistakes. Clearing up your mistakes is even more helpful. Also, a narcissist typically doesn’t admit mistakes.
Sometimes all you need to do with CXL is hit it with a pig bristle brush to get rid of superficial scratches. Great video, especially enjoyed the stitch down clarification. I wondered if it was inferior in terms of resolving ability, and you confirmed it. I don’t see the advantage to it.
Nice video, Nick. Crazy how quickly time can pass. But I still think you have an "I 💘Thursdays" tattoo somewhere 😁. And nice to see you're using a different pair of Rangers for your vids. Try to keep em away from the Obenauf's this time.
An interesting boot band that use Wickett and Craig is Clinch boots out of Tokyo. I've got a pair of their Yaeger boots in Wickett and Craig Latigo roughout. I see a few Indonesian makers use Wickett and Craig as well. I might be a little too biased since I live pretty close to their tannery but it's a really solid veg tan.
Thank you for this video. Ive watch your videos and while i did enjoy them, i thought to myself.... thats not true, thats false. I commend you for admitting you were wrong. Something most people dont do nowadays. I believe you are much more knowledgeable now. THANK YOU!
Laces are for people with subconscious suicidal tendencies Heels are for Lost Wages hookers and horse saddles. Steel toes are for people who have a die grinder handy...in case Vibrams are for them thar mud rastlin folk and jaunts up McKinley---or down Ranier Birkenstocks are only for San Fran and Key West Speed hooks are for hangin' hogs and fishin' Gore-tex is what Al Gore uses to make sure his diapers stay tight. Thinsulate is for keeping beer 1/2 cold. Lastly. Moc toes were for injuns 250 years back because carving a last ,from a stump ,with a rock is tough.
I don't think stitchdown is cheaper than GYW. While it's true that high end brands like Viberg do it, I would suspect it's actually the cheapest means of construction for stitched footwear as it's also used in the most budget brands like Jim Green and Clark's Desert Boots. It doesn't get much simpler than flanging out the upper and then rapid stitching that directly to the midsole. It's water resistant, but will likely get fewer resoles than GYW because a) you've got to stitch through the upper every time you resole (unless we're talking just pulling a unit sole off the midsole and gluing on a new one, not touching the stitching at all), and b) if you wear your boots hard and kick a lot of stuff at that edge, you're damaging the area of the upper that needs to be in decent shape for that resole.
Uses less material because there is no nylon gemming and no welt but requires more skill. That’s where the cost is in brands like Viberg, Nicks and Whites. That’s why the majority of less expensive leather footwear are Goodyear welted. Keep in mind if you mess up the upper while rapid stitching the stitchdown boot the whole pair of boots is scrapped. If it’s a Goodyear welt and you mess up the welt in construction you can redo the welt and the boot is saved. There are also machines that do a lot of the Goodyear welt process but less so for stitchdown.
Nick what the heck did you do to your iron rangers they look so much different from the last time I've seen them. We need an update video to that, they look great!
Great video Nick !! Hey man we all have to eat a crow every once in a while 🤙. We forgive you !! Keep up the great work and are those still the same rangers that you unintentionally made super dark ? If so, man they are looking awesome !
Labeling on W&C leather tannery samples from White's and Nick's are wrong: first one seems to be White's and second image is Nick's winner prototype of the Dome.
You should collaborate with Rose Anvil on reviews. You'll be the guy who walks around in the boots and review the comfort and Rose Anvil will cut them in half and show us what's inside.
I really think this video is necessary for you, I mean you needed to make this video. Mostly to debunk myths that you yourself have been perpetuating. Because when I started getting into mens boots, etc, your word was like the word of God for me. Example, if you say leather soles are bad, then I 100% believed you and so on. so kudos for making this specific video.
I had some Wolverine chukkas that had an internal toe cap. The extra layer of leather meant the boots couldn't be stretched where they pinched, so I gave them to my dad. He has narrower feet. I never trust the manufacturer's description. I can't count the times someone advertised the quality of their "derby oxfords".
I think your section on chrome versus vegetable tanning needs further qualification. Chrome tanning produces a more supple leather, which is ideal for leather uppers. Some of the more refined dress shoes would be much more difficult to make without chrome tanned leather. It’s the main reason why some 96% of leather used in shoemaking is chrome tanned. Vegetable tanned leather is more stiff and rigid. That makes it much more suitable for use as insoles and outsoles and is why it tends only to be used in uppers for work boots. If one were to go to a nigh-end bespoke shoemaker like John Lobb, they’d use chrome tanned uppers and veg tanned insoles and outsoles.
Boys, boys…lol I actually respect both opinions. All due respect to Stridewise, most HARD users of boots aren’t looking at YT for recommendations. They get them from word of mouth, then trial and error when it comes to fit. These vids are for beginner to intermediate boot buyer. And that’s me. So thank you for them, and the information, along with this vids transparency. THAT is exceedingly rare.
Leather soles still suck. Even in the city or town. Where I live there’s a lot of tiled flooring indoors, which is slippy as hell. I’ve not fallen, but I have overstretched tendons/ligaments when slipping on leather soles, and ripped a pair of suit pants. You also have to take great care on anything with a metal grate, which is a lot of things like stairs in the U.K. where it rains a lot.
How can a shoe be too wide? Most are too narrow and some so called wide are still not wide enough. The wider the better in my opinion. Like Jim Green which are perfect in width and are a stitch down. The only issue with Jim green in the convex sole.
@@franky3fingers337 he meant that since the welt goes all the way around that basically provides the support and doesn’t need a shank, which doesn’t make any sense at all, he didn’t mention a leather shank, also Allen Edmonds don’t use leather shanks
@@yifanzheng1999 yeah your right. Looks like they use a wooden shank. From gentleman’s gazette : “The shank of an Allen Edmonds shoe would often be made of wood to maintain durability while increasing comfort.”
I mean, I knew all this stuff...or, more correctly, I know all this stuff *now* from watching channels like yours, so....😅 You've probably forgotten more than some of us know. Although you just made another mistake. A stitch-down boot *can* *also* have a welt. 😉
I forgive you #StrideGuy; live and learn is not just an aphorism! Keep up the good work and evolve your opinions and guidance as you accrue more boot wisdom.
Stitch down is not less flexible. Look at all the most known boots for flexibility like Clark’s desert boots. It’s funny that he is still getting backwards.
@@justsomeguy5470 The boots he used as examples are work boots. He said wedge soles don't need shanks and while he is talking primarily to people posing as people who work for a living his statement, if taken at face value, could cost a working person some injury time.
@@Stridewise yeah I mean, I can see that store sales guy said it, but still makes no sense, the 360 degreeness of the shoe has nothing to do with the shank, just sayin
