I’m not sure I’d send my boots to a cobbler who is upselling a new welt when the whole purpose of a GYW is to make it easier to resole. I wonder what he says to customers who are not on camera. His sales pitch wasn’t that good and to me it seemed like it was the first time he actually told a customer that he didn’t need it but that aesthetically it might turn out better. I bet he often says it’s needed and doesn’t make the aesthetic argument. Watch Trenton and Heath from Potter and sons. You never see them selling new GYW, especially not on shoes that haven’t been recrafted yet.
Does it cost as much as a new pair? Yeah. Worth it? I’d argue yes. It seems counterintuitive but think. You’re getting new soles, new welts, a real danite sole, leather heel, and the uppers are already broken in and it fit to your foot. They have the “stories” with them. $200 sure you get a new pair but you’re back to square one. Why is a new pair of captains better than an upgraded pair that’s broken in? From my outside perspective, someone just getting into the game, that’s how I see it.
To do a full resole like that, it prob costs $180 - $200. It's worth it when you have an expensive pair of shoes / boots. Also you eliminate waste. But it's hard to justify a resole on $200 Thursday boots.
Hand welted footwear is constructed differently from Goodyear welted footwear. Because the welt was hand sewn to this Thursday boot does not mean it is the same as hand welted footwear which usually has channel called a holdfast and a much thicker insole.
This is an awesome video; one of the best RU-vid videos out there. Not only interesting but so educational. I watched the whole video carefully and it really made me appreciate the Thursday boot and even more so, the handiwork that Wyatt and Dad Cobbler provide. Having personally seen the end result, I gotta say the boots look better than new. Great job BootSpy!
Dope video! love Wyatt & Dad. Gonna be a little pedantic here, but these boots are not being handwelted, it's just getting a handstitched welt. Thursdays has canvas gemming that the welt is attached to, so it is a good year welted boot. For a boot to be "handwelted" it would mean that it has a thick leather insole, that then gets a channel carved into it where the welt is attached to. Basically, as long as the welt is attached through canvas, it's a goodyear welt. This boot is just getting the welt handstitched to the gemming. For the boot to be handwelted, the insole would have to be replaced with some very thick leather
Goodyear welting is named after Charles Goodyear Jr, the guy who invented the machine that does it. Gemming is often a part of Goodyear welting, but not always. For example, Viberg's Goodyear welted line has the welt sewn into a leather channel on the insole. That doesn't mean Viberg boots are 'hand welted', because the stitching is still performed by a Goodyear welt machine; it just means they're Goodyear welted boots with a leather holdfast. Similarly, a welt stitched by hand onto canvas gemming is still 'hand-welted', because the welting wasn't done with a Goodyear welt machine; and it's the machine the construction method is named for.
@@JimKiralfy Yes, it was named after that, but goodyear welt and hand welt are different construction methods. You cannot turn a Goodyear welt into a handwelt without replacing the insole. Now a days, there are two types of Goodyear welts. Vibergs are produced with a channeled insole Goodyear welt, which is how Goodyear welted shoes were made decades ago. Nowadays, most GYW shoes are made with a canvas gemming that the welt is attached to. Hand welting is a superior construction that is much harder to do. From first world countries, you will only find handwelts in the most expensive, highest quality shoes. Even Gaziano & Girling or Edward Green RTW is canvas ribbed GYW. You have to go bespoke with them to get a handwelt. Hand welt requires tons of hand work that is way to innefficient for most factories, where a craftsman carves out a hold fast out of a thick insole completely by hand. Once the hold fast is made; the welt is then attached to it. For any of the 3 described construction methods, the way the welt is sewn makes no difference. A hand welt can have the welt machine sewn, it is still a hand welt. A GYW can have the welt hand sewn, it is still a GYW. The distinction between the constructions is what the welt is getting attached to. Because the welt in this video is still getting attached to a canvas rib, it remains a goodyearwelt construction
This is interesting. Kinda imagine most people with these boots don't end up resoling them or go through a far less extensive (and I imagine expensive) resole. Wouldn't be surprised if this resole would have cost close to the same as the boot. That being said it's basically improved now from the original.
I don't usually sub to anyone I watch on YT but I had to sub with you today. Your content is fire! Thanks for sharing! This video is awesome because I'm in the process of getting a pair of Thursday President boots so this video is awesome!
This was an amazing video. Not only helped me know detail on how Thursday Boots are made and I’ve decide to get a pair, but also knowing I will have a quality shop to send my boots in the future for restoration down the road. Thanks for making this video
This will be the debate I’ll have when mine are due for resoling. Resole or new boots? If the leather looks better and more comfortable than when they were new, it may be worth paying top dollar to resole and get even better soles than buying new Thursdays. I’ll see when I get there. If nothing else, it’s nice knowing I will have that option.
The look of those Captains boots after is way better. But I wonder how much such a resole cost. Hand stitching is hard work, and those Captains boots aren't that expensive.
I’ve got these Thursday Boots. Captains in Brown. I love the fact that we can get then resoled. This is one of the many reasons I went with Thursday Boots. The selection, the craftsmanship, the re-crafting , and the quality for the price. Cheers
Needed this video, I’ve abused my Thursday boots like hell. It’s definitely informative to see how the construction/process of the year welts work. Will be taking these boots to a cobbler soon! 🤘🏼👣
Crazy cool!!! I learned so much from this presentation. Tips to help me with future purchases. Tips for when it comes time for a resole. Just an all around informative, and fantastic presentation. Folks....support your local craftsmen. These trades and techniques are time-tested, and proven methods of quality construction, that deserve our respect, implementation, and support. Support your local cobbler. Support your local watchmaker. Support your local tailor or seamstress. To quote Carl Murawski, "buy less, and buy better." BootSpy, please keep up the great work. All the best....cheers🥃
Love the insight into cobbler work! I'm just dipping my feet, quite literally, into these resolable boots and find myself just carried away by the cool shit here. I'm a tinkerer so this stuff excites me!
Very good video. Watching a novice along side a pro really highlights the craftsmanship, efficiency ,and experience of a cobbler. I also have an even greater respect for Thursday Boot Company. No ugly surprises hiding inside the boots construction. Actually, the opposite, with discovering it’s reinforced shank area. I just wish they didn’t build their boots so darn narrow. Even in Wide I have to size up, which becomes an awkward length with it’s pointed toe. Love the work and videos of Wyatt and Dad. My Iron Rangers will be traveling there within the next few months.
My Captains after 1 year of wear looked way worse than those and I took good care of them. The undersole started coming off after a month, the stiching broke after 6-7 months and the uppers started coming apart. Thursday said that this is usual wear and tear and it's normal. I dont really understand why people still fall for that marketing scam and get those shitty boots.
The younger guy sold him on a new welt bc of the holes. But the old guy hand welted for the same reason. Couldn't the old guy "reuse" the holes on the old welt?
@@davidcoleman2796 Probably equal to or more than buying a new pair. The outsoles on those Thursdays did not look worn out to me. Clean and condition the uppers and boots and shoes will look great and last a long time. When the outsoles wear out on moderate priced footwear, money is better spent on a new pair. By that time, the interiors will have significant wear as well.
That looks very nice with the natural colored midsole and the leather heel stack. Contrast is very nice with a darker leather upper and a black sole. 10/10, if I had a pair of Thursdays, I would do that when they need new soles.
Hello! I really enjoy your content. I live in India and don’t have any cobbler who can resole my boots and shoes. I have over 15 pairs of boots including redwing and Thursday. Can these guys offer their services if I would ship my boots to their location? That will be a great help
Look up Blk Bird Shoemaker, based out of Agra. They may be willing to resole your boots. I'm sure Wyatt & Dad would do a great job, but the shipping cost would be crazy
Had a cobbler tell me he had no room to re-stitch because not enough material from goodyear welt to stitch on sides from being too narrow than the rest of the welt surface area. This should never be the case since you have to be able to get the machine on the stitching area to stay in place;and also I didn't get enough wear from the sole before it cracked on the middle corner.
I know you are a boot channel, would love to see a video of your thoughts on belts to pair with a variety of boots. I'm thinking I'm not the only one that would be interested, upvote if you agree! As always, enjoy the content, this one was very cool.
Two cool brands worth checking out for belts are Pigeon Tree Crafting and Nobleman's Apothecary, beautiful, handmade and of a variety of constantly rotating leathers.
This was a great video, other than the upsell on replacing the welt. Maybe there was something I didn't see on the video, but I didn't see any issues with the welt yet that would warrant changing them. You should be able to get a few resoles on a welt.
You are correct, the welts were reusable. He wanted to go to a natural colored welt for a different look is why we changed it. Another deciding factor was that it gave him a deeper experience doing his first recraft.
@@WyattDadCobblerCompanythe upsell on camera was that it might lead to cleaner stitching. I know he went along with it for the video but I’d hate to see normal customers getting upsold on new welts when they aren’t necessary. The whole purpose of the welt is so that the shoe can be recrafted numerous times before needing to replace the welt.
@@malverdetx8582 I guess we could have recorded the entire conversation we had about welts prior to starting the project with the customer, and played it out for you. That would have been real interesting to watch and still wouldn’t cover every scenario and question that gets discussed when we are dealing with each individual customer that we work with. So, you guys enjoy hating online regardless of what is put out. Believe it or not, to produce these videos cost us considerably more than the customers pay for the job. The short videos you watch typically takes 4-6 hours to film. No, we don’t actually just turn on a camera and do the job, then post it. There is editing involved. There was no upsell. We present our customers with facts and let them decide what they want their boots or shoes to look like when they are finished.
@@WyattDadCobblerCompany I’m not hating on the content of the video, nor am I hating on the quality of the work. I’m merely pointing out something that I as a customer would be concerned about. I go into your shop because you are professionals, skilled in YOUR trade, and your opinion matters. When a skilled tradesman begins to recommend something, a customer’s first reaction is going to be to go along with it, even if it isn’t necessary because you know best. Again, I’ve seen y’all’s work, it’s great. I have no doubt that the stitching on the old welt that had never been resoled would have come out just as good as the stitching on the new welt. Maybe my problem is with the language used - “I always like to push new welts.” I’m not sure why you decided to go into the editing process and the cost and time associated with it, but since you did, I would have done some better editing around the 3:47 mark.
This was cool. One thing as I’m new to boots. The Thursday captains are $200, but I checked out the recrafting service and it starts at $140. One you add a welt and midsole it was more than $200. Why not just buy new ones?
Well the sole job on these are way higher quality finished than on original Thursdays. But i agree. I wouldn’t choose this shop to do Thursdays. That’s more of a local job.
Many people live their broken in leather uppers and they have traveled many miles with them. Yes it can be expensive to resolve your shoes and boots, but if you love them, you take care of them and they will last many, many decades. Cheers
Awesome thanks. I have presidents in tobacco there pretty rugged. I love them I put them through the ringer I use them at work every day at home Depot I wore them in winter even though I definitely abuse them more than I should but no cracks or anything thing in sole .and I haven't really taken care of them with conditioning or anything . But they are definitely great quality. I'm gonna get a the pair you have. One thing with mine though it discolors my socks bluish you had that problem? I called the company and said they would replace them and I said I wanted captains so there going to send a pair for free! The customer service is also great .
