BOOT SIZING: High Volume vs Low Volume Last Discussion 

Dale…..mate…..it all does make sense…..but my head is swimming. 😂 There are so many variables to dial in. Luckily for me I have “average” feet. I have luckily fitted (with some exceptions) in 8D and adjust accordingly if need be, by varying sock thicknesses or, sometimes by inserting varying thickness removable insoles. This is probably one of the most important videos for a “boot newbie” to watch!

Regarding insole or sock liner test for getting your width, what about stretching? Leather stretches the more you wear it. So if it’s too narrow based on the insole test and I go wider, it may stretch too much and end up too wide after a lot of use.

what is your advice for a low volume, wide forefoot, which boots stand out to you?

Not going to lie, this one felt more like a lecture than a chat, but a very helpful lecture at that! 1. Is your Parkhurst boot on their old last, because the new (602) last is reportedly lower volume? 2. Allen Edmonds 1757 last is definitely a good one for low volume feet. 3. I want to watch more of that podiatrist's videos! I've been doing this insole test for years not realizing it's an actual thing - but most shoes squash my toes anyway and I figured that's just how things are supposed to be. As a low volume guy, wearing anything with the proper width has far too much volume, so I have to wear thick socks or add inserts. 4. I have been avoiding Alden because of the price but I think I must try the Trubalance again. You say that it's relatively low volume but I've long assumed the opposite since trying them on a half size down from Brannock: my feet were swimming in them. Never been to a proper Alden store though. 5. I struggle with those "combination" lasts which are tight in the front and loose in the heel (though that term typically refers to the opposite proportions). The White's MP is bad for me, and the Grant Stone Leo, but I have narrow heels and a low instep. The struggle is real! Thanks for your valuable input, Dale! Since I am low volume and you are the opposite, I probably need to just start avoiding all the boots that you say fit you well, haha.

Does the heel fit any different between the Truman 79 last and their 20 last? I’ve heard the 79 has a wide heel.

Yessss!! The video I've been waiting for.

I've always considered an unstructured toe to be a toe box without celastic or stiffener, just the leather, so it collapses easily. I think an Alden Indy or Grant Stone etc is still a structured toe because it has celastic stiffener keeping it from collapsing, it's just that the last is very low profile. A red wing moc is also structured with celastic, it just has a higher volume last that creates the higher volume bump toe structure. A Viberg 2030 with and without the toe box stiffener creates a whole different look and feel.

Ron’s advice of more room in the toes is great. I’ve had dress shoes that I thought fit until I realized they were causing my toes to squish. Starting to become a believer of shoes being comfortable right out of the box as opposed to “stretch to fit”, because when you think about it, a bespoke shoe will fit perfect immediately so that’s what you should be aiming. I’m surprised more brands don’t do the Munson based last. Tried some Lofgrens recently and they were the most comfortable boots I’ve ever put on but were a hair too short for my liking. Also re brannock, Ron said to add 2 widths which I never heard before, I’m thinking he’s right in terms of what the manufacturer brands the last as (i.e. 8.5EE ball width with narrow heel seems to be the best fit for me, 9.5C/D brannock). I say all this even tho I just got a pair of Viberg 2030 service boots in Maryam horsebutt that may or may not be half a size too small on my toe box (8E, 8.5E in wholecut was way too big) but I digress … in my limited experience so far, more volume in the toes is the way to go. Also side note, has anyone else noticed their feet get larger / wider over covid from not wearing shoes as much? Lol !!

I'm new to this world and have my eye on a pair of Viberg's Service Boots. On the Brannock device I'm an 11D right foot 10.5D left, instep not too high or low and pretty straight toes. I'm stuck between the 1035 and 2030 lasts. At this price point it's uncomfortable to pull the trigger without trying on the different choices first. Is there anyway around this? Thanks and very helpful video.

This topic is such a helpful thing to explore. Alas, I suspect that I am an odd case because I have flat feet with EEE width AND high volume insteps. Strangely enough, Alden TruBalance in 8.5 eee fits wonderfully but Alden Barrie last in the same size is quite uncomfortable right at my insteps!

Good one!

This is a video that all beginners should watch

Such a great video. I'm looking to branch out of mostly Red wings and looking at Grant Stone and Parkhurst. So very helpful.

Wow first time I hear of using insole as a gauge… I like that and explains why I finding myself using my Birkenstocks more often than any of my other shoes

If you go to a hockey store Bauer has a machine you stand in and does a 3d model of your foot. It's free. Gives you an exact measurement.

The problem is the we only had a single dimension of your shoe "size" when your feet are 3 dimensions. The Low and High volume together with "knowing your feet" has gave a great tool to buy my boots online. I am almost 10 1/2 E , Taking GrantStone as reference in Brass Boot (High Volume) my size is 9.5 E (going down 1 full in), but in Diesel (Low Volumen) my size 10 E (going down just 1/2 in ). Thanks Dale.

This was a master class in boot sizing. Thank you!

excellent analysis. i would like to buy my first pair of truman boots. i am 9.5E in GS brass boots what size/last would you recommend in truman lineup. thanks

Perfect timing Dale. I am assessing all my shoes, boots, and slippeds that have too narrow a shape last where my feet want to splay…and donating them! Well done.

Excellent video

Recently bought Thursday Captains. I wear an 11D shoe and they recommended going down 1/2 size. In spite of this I went with an 11. I'm glad I did. It is very slightly too big, but a 10 1/2 would have probably been a bit too tight. I learned the hard way, that a slightly bigger boot is better than slightly tight. With the former, you can always wear slightly thicker socks, but you will never be happy with an overly tight fit.

I forget now whether its Viberg or Nicks, but one of them has a sizing chart that factors in circumference ( volume ? ) when trying to determine best shoe size. Someone should be able to quantify the volume part of the equation and include that factor into size and last. For example, you are an 8.5 D , with a circumference at ball of XX inches. Maybe there should be a recommendation for each last , which could be sizing 1 width wider, or 1/2 length shorter, or whatever. Perhaps even to stay away from certain lasts altogether if they don't match up well with the measurements. If all else fails, maybe you could set up a hotline, 1-800- CALL DALE , and charge $10 to get a personalized recommendation.

i have a low volume and narrow foot, my brannock device measurement for the right foot is 9 and left is 9.5 with width in between B and C. I've always worn size 42 in european shoes and size 8.5 in US shoes. The only piece of correct information i was ever able to get from the brannock is the width of my foot; everything else is incorrect. go figure...

Great topic! Another thing that boot collectors don’t talk about often enough is how your boot size changes over time. As you break them in the arch settles and toe box curls up causing a slight variation in sizing over time.

Cool video. Allen Edmonds 65 last is too narrow for me. I have a pair of Carlyles that I wear sockless in summer, they look cool but my foot hates afterwards. Grant Stone Floyd is the most comfortable for me, even sizing down one half from my Brannock gives me an excellent roomy fit. Carmina Oscar last gives me a lot of arch support yet good width at the toe as well, it’s an excellent dress shoe last for guys with wider toes but that want arch support and a European look.

Another great video! 👍🏻 would love to see a video comparing the quality and comfort of the Grant Stone/Leo last vs Parkhurst/602 last

Thanks for the great video on boot volume. The Brannock device only measures in 2 dimensions. I have had difficulty finding boots and shoes that fit my feet. My feet are similar to yours. I am just under 9 to my great toe on Brannock but my 2nd toe is longer almost to 9.5. My 3rd and 4th toes are also long, I have a high instep and arch. I usually ordered longer shoes to fit my higher volume feet, but that causes the shoe flexion point to be too far back. I have watched some videos on Bespoke shoe measurements and it seems that putting in more foot measurements other than length and width would be helpful.

Very good info which helps to fill out my rudimentary shoe fit knowledge. Thanks.

Helpful! As always and interesting! Thank You

This is helpful, my foot is so wide I have to size up.

Been watching all your videos. I'm about to order my first Truman. Looking at the Java waxed flesh. I have a high volume foot. Brannock between 10E and EE. If I go with the 20 last I'm thinking 9.5 D. If I go with the 79 9.5 EE. What are your thoughts? Since the 20 last is a higher volume last. I'm thinking less width?

Great video! I have one question about last 20 in Truman boots. I have red wing moc toe in size 12D but i need to use insoles to get some volume because of my low instep. I just ordered Truman moc toe in last 20 in size 11,5D. How do last 20 i Truman boots fits in instep area compare to Red wing moc toe? Do they have lower volume in instep area? Thanks...

Did you get new redwing moc toes?

This is a must see video!

Interesting video on shoe sizing. What would be your preference for people with wide feet? Given the choice of 8.5D, 8E or even 7.5EE. Would you choose a wider shoe with shorter length, or a slimmer shoe with longer length. Thanks.

It is hard to find a boot company that sells any but one width usually “D”, Viberg only offers “E”, Thursdays “D” etc. Many many years ago Whites sold off the shelf boots from A through EE, I decided to order made to fit, sent in my measurements. A couple of months later Whites sent me a pair of 12 B, they indicated my measurements fell into size 12 B it was a perfect fit no made to fit charge, those days are long gone.

Man I love your channel but you have a problem brother, sooooo many boots.....a nice one but still a problem...hahahahha/all the best troutbumandsam

What is a "last"?

Until the shoe market gets their s$&t together and use lasts that are the same / in length l won’t be buying online.

Hey Dale, I have been looking into natural boot toe boxes the last few weeks and picked up a pair of Jim Green african rangers and they fit great around the toes. But I also picked up a set of boot stretchers which really help to widen the fore foot area at the vamp and toe box, you can widen that area significantly so that the toes fit in much better. www.amazon.com/dp/B077T897QY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B077T897QY&pd_rd_w=28HeD&content-id=amzn1.sym.dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_p=dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_r=JZFC4G82MWVFRGZ9XT67&pd_rd_wg=w9acm&pd_rd_r=ec4ecb1d-c49f-48f0-b9bb-f76e98f9e0fc&s=shoes&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVkFDWk1OWlIwUVNQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTEyMzAzU0RFRzVEWE43MzBZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNDc3NzAyWTAxVlg4RFVHVVMzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==