Point-of-use electric mini-tanks are available in three sizes which can be wall-hung or floor-mounted. Simply tap into the cold water line and install the water heater directly at the sink to provide hot water at point-of-use.
I just installed this unit in my travel trailer, but the pressure relief valve is engaging, I'm guessing because of the closed system. Your manual recommends a .5 gallon expansion tank, but I'm having trouble finding one that size. Any thoughts, recommendations, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I just bought the 4 gallon model. Love it! The thing I’m wondering about is this pressure release valve. Are we supposed to do anything with it? Are we supposed to put a pipe drain in it? Are we supposed to release pressure periodically? I have reviewed the manual and searched online and cannot find anything on it. Is it automatic and we don’t have to worry about it?
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ru-vid.comUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I want to use one of these in a PV solar application. Heat loss overnight is a major concern. Is this foam insulation and how thick is it so I can compare with my existing tank.
I bought the ECO 6 gallon which is similar to this and it works great on solar at the camp. I run it off the 60V PV with a controller I designed and it only uses excess power that DOESN'T go to the batteries. It uses the existing tank temperature controller and I can unplug it from my system and still connect it to a generator. That will produce 120F hot water in just15 minutes on bad solar days which are very few. I even run a dishwasher with heated dry. The insulation is only about an inch of foam and is acceptable.
What are the winterization recommendations? Coins you flush your rv with antifreeze and not damage this unit? What about blowing the unit out with air? Has anyone tried that?
Are you saying hot water can be fed into this unit - as a buffer until hot water "arrives" from main water heater? If so, is it "smart enough to limit water temp coming out of the faucet?
Without plumbing in a full system, Is there a way to set this up in a shed or such with just a gravity fed basin as a water supply and just a simple hose and shower head, then fill and heat water on an as needed basis? How long would it take to get 2.5 gallons of water from 40 or 50 degrees to shower temperatures? Could it then be drained and unplugged from power until the next use?
I used mine (7 gallon)with garden hose feed and output to a shower head, this worked just fine as a temporary soultion in a home needing complete re-piping, in the end i use it as the primary source of hot water but i live alone and demand is rather low. I do believe i ll be adding a expansion tank.
In principle, yes. Check your local codes, which typically require an air gap. If a drain pan is used the PRV can drop into the pan and the drain pan drain piped away.
Folks, the devil’s in the details. Before you buy this, check your local plumbing codes. When the plumber showed up to install the 4 gallon unit, he informed us that our city code requires hot water heaters have a drain pan with a pipe that leads to the exterior of your home. And for another $300, he’d be happy to make it happen.
Bosch - You should be ashamed of yourselves for CHOOSING to not supply installation information. "Connect the cold water inlet...." is NOT helpful. I love the product, but the support is horrible. The last time that I installed one, it took 3 trips to the home store to get the right fittings. What regular companies that care about their customers do is supply information on configurations and supplies needed.
@@wayne3340 That's ridiculous. There's nothing complicated about this. We paid $600 for a plumber to install one at our church and he did it wrong. I did it right when I installed it in my own home. The ONLY challenge was picking out the right fittings. Where do you draw the line at DIY? What can I do for myself and what do I need to pay a professional for?
@@bkf8166 I agree, we can all do ourselves a service by doing things ourselves. It usually saves us lots of money, and really gives a satisfaction when completed. I was talking more to the folks who don't know what they're doing.
@@wayne3340 LOL! Agreed. However, perhaps the only difference between that guy who has no idea and the one who does is some time spent with Google and RU-vid. The first time that I changed the brakes on my 1982 SAAB (in 1984), I failed miserably and spent about 4 hours doing it. (SAAB requires a special tool to change their brakes.) 10 years later and a bunch of SAAB specialty tools, I had swapped engines, transmissions, changed clutches, rebuilt heads, and pretty much done everything else that can be done to a SAAB. I have a tough time paying somebody else to do things that I THINK I'm capable of. Sometimes I'm wrong! BTW - On my last home improvement project, I FINALLY broke through the conceptual barrier I had regarding wiring. I had my wife sit down with me and watch a couple of videos. She explained them to me and helped me to do the first couple of new outlets, then I was off to the races. I've added lighting, switches, and new outlets on my own. I finally understand it. That was the one area of DIY that I hadn't conquered in my home. As you said. VERY satisfying.
