Keep in mind that this water heater under our sink is on 24/7. So say 24 hrs X 90 days is 2,160 hours. So keep track the hours your water heater is on and do this maintenance before you use up 2,160 hrs or when you notice the water turning yellow/light orange (rust color) to prevent damage to the system. The anode rod that came with the system was the size of a small marker. The ones I replaced is twice as thick and 1/3 longer. Thank you for the comment!
Thanks for sharing the problem on the anode. The manual states to check anode yearly. My heater is installed in the wall of my master bath which is the farthest distance from the water heater. It is a bit of a pain to remove. I was not inspecting it once a year and it developed a small leak. On inspection, there was a small rust spot in the seam of the tank. My next water heater, I did the second yearly inspection and anode replacement, I notice a small rust spot in the seam at the back of the tank, no leak yet. I will inspect at eight month intervals. I also put the heater on a plastic sheet to direct water. I have two battery leak detectors near the heater. I also have a wifi remote feed line shutoff. One other problem, passing the heater, I smelled burnt rubber. The left power wire clip on was not making proper contact and I had to replace the clip. After the hassle of installation, i am reluctant to install a different type of heater, maybe. Overkill, I have two new backup heaters and spare parts. Good luck to all.
The Bosch anodes are Magnesium versus the cheaper less fun tional aluminum anodes. If rigging with a larger size such as for RV heater, make sure it is magnesium. The company has a PDF manual for this water heater that has a diagram of all parts inside. And a maintenance section with great info on cleaning and maintenance.
Thanks for the post. I just purchased one of these off Amazon to replace a cheap China brand unit from eBay. Thanks for the information about the anode rod issue. I think I might try installing a in-line water filter before this water heater I wonder if that would help the situation now. Have you had this idea before by chance? Good luck.
I do have a 20 micron filter before the water softener and a 10 micron filter after water softener. No matter how soft or pure the water is has little effect to the anode rod as the electrolysis is occurring while it’s on.
We are getting a lot of rotten egg smell and would like to go with an all zinc or aluminum-zinc rod to get rid of the stink. Anyone know a source. Was thinking I might be able to bond a bunch of boat zincs together.
Ebay sells em for cheap or Amazon but it needs to be modified to fit… they also sell the OEM anode rod but that thing’s $17 bucks that’ll last you 2 months…
Sorry, I just saw your comment. It is on 24/7 as it takes about 30 mins to warm up the water in the tank. If you use this in an RV/TT or backyard sink and only use it a few days a month then it will extend the life of the anode rod significantly. Say 24 hrs X 90 days is 2,160 hours. Just keep track of the hours it is used and your anode rod will last for a few years...
Yeah I know… that’s why I mentioned it on the video that it was suggested online about adding a ground to extend the anode rod’s life… it don’t hurt none, so it’s there…🤷♂️
You skip right past the part I'm having trouble with, which is removing the connectors. I don't think they should be this hard to pull off. but you go straight from taking it out of the cabinet to removing the anode with these already removed. If there's a trick or if it's supposed to be easy I have no idea because your video skips right past it.. disappointed
Sorry about that... the trick is to wiggle the connector as you pulling it out... It has this nipple on the female end of it to prevent it from coming loose. I have disassembled this multiple times and it is more loose than when it was new that's why I can remove it with ease... I hope this explains it, GL...
@@mikedoingmikethings702 i tried that first but didn't really help. The trick was to first push the nipple in to start the move then place two fingers on either side of the top of it and gently wiggle it while.pushing down. I'm a big fan of *never force anything* and this was the least force method. The other initial removal step missing is getting the ground screw off. I wound up having to use a pair of pliers to unscrew it and will need to replace this screw. It was so tight that it stripped and I just couldn't get it off any other way.
