*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade, it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut.If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Helo! I really liked your videos, especially the one where you make some adjustments to the GCM 8 SJL model (the one you use in this video and the previous one). I was thinking about buying this model of miter saw before and now, after your videos, I am a little more stimulated. Do you think it could be a good choice or do you recommend some other brand? To be honest, I would like a DeWALT, but it is more expensive. This model that you use makes a good cut at 45º in the vertical position and also beveled. Thank you so much for the videos and your help.
I bought my saw on offer for € 335 and at that price I think it's a really good buy. The weight was also important as I was constantly moving around on it. I would buy the same today but DeWalt also tends to make good machines.
Hello, I want to ask you, are you satisfied with it, it makes exact cuts, it is easily deregulated, you have to adjust it often, would you choose another model now after working with it for a while?
I chose this saw because of the price and because it weighs only 17 kg. The weight is important because I move all around with it. There are things I could wish for differently but there are also things that have surprised positively, so if I had to buy a new saw today it would be the same. It is quite accurate but in long cuts of 30 cm there is a deviation of about 1/10 mm it does not matter much but it annoys me. There is no need for much adjustment except for depth stops which need to be kept in mind, an extra nut helps with the problem.
Thank you for your comment. I mostly use the saw outdoors and here I have a hard time seeing the laser in sunlight, I have tested the laser inside the workshop and it works fine.
Hi there, I am trying to figure out whether this saw would fit my rather small workshop. Would you mind sharing with me the it's depth once the blade is fully retracted? I would say I care about the depth from the tip of the "legs" to the end of the rails, rather than the beginning of the cutting track.
