There is an adjustment screw on the mitresaw with which you can adjust the laser. This allows you to adjust the laser very precisely so that the laser exactly matches the saw cut
I like to watch reviews on products I've already bought LOL , that saw and the table was definitely a good buy, the portability is very nice with these
I too am happy with the purchase of that saw, it’s still going strong although it’s not quite as precise as when it was new for some reason (I’m talking about a millimetre over the 300 mm cut width). I have a few Bosch tools and they are all quite good but most of my tools are Makita or Dewalt Thanks for watching
Tips. Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Very useful review. I gonna buy this one. Seems good value for money, and I have read tests where this one wins (norwegian DIY magazine). Greetings from Norway :-)
great walk around, thanks for that. One thing I'd like to ask that's not covered. What is the head side to side play like, if any, over the slide travel? I have a cheap Evolution non slide saw and I can probably alter the cut length on 0° cuts by ±2mm just by flexing the head left or right unintentionally as I cut. That is the main reason (other than greater cutting capactity) I'm looking at a new saw.
I think it’s pretty good. If you really push on it you can probably move it one or two millimetres from side to side but if you let the tool do the work it’s fine.
I bought one and it comes different that yours, mine has stickers not engraved numbers for the angles, also the red stop levers are faulty they do not stop the sliding arms. I’m disappointed tbh, I haven’t even connected the piece of crap..
That would depend on how far out from the wall your bench is. The saw is 60 cm (2 feet) from the back of the rails to the front of the table and 90cm (3 feet) from the back of the rails to the very front. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
