A few tips: wrap the hose tightly with 2-3 wraps of masking tape, or 1-2 wraps of duct tape where you need to cut the hose. You can use a 32 TPI, bi-metal hack saw blade (use a new blade), or a thin grinder cut-off wheel to cut the hose. Needs to be perfectly square and straight. - the hose socket (red) is almost always reverse threads, so lefty-tighty when installing. -once the hose is installed in the socket, mark the steel braid directly below the socket with a thin sharpie, or wrap tape around the braid directly below the socket, to assure that the hose does not push out of the socket while installing the nut/nipple assembly. - when screwing in the nut/nipple assembly, use system fluid to lubricate the threads. Wrap your anodized fittings in masking/foil/duct tape to keep the vise from marring the finish. Use a Flare nut wrench or box end wrench for tightening the fitting
Thank you!! This has been very helpful. Looking to get into some custom stuff on my ‘77 trans am. Always great when those with experience share tips and tricks. Thanks brother.
If anyone wants to know the best way to cut the hose. It's using a cutting disc on a grinder. Quick and easy. Clean cut too. Dont use a hacksaw it will make a mess.
+1 even for - 4AN. Talk about pricks in the fingers. Best for that size is to wrap in duct tape, cut, remove tape, rewrap carefully in electrical tape, 2 wraps minimum leaving slack to pull it through the fitting, insert, twist, pull tape off thru fitting.
Great video I'm actually building a custom water loop for my computer (AMD Ryzen Threadripper) and wanted it to have a V8 engine theme so this video helped me out greatly when fitting my AN houses that I'll use! Greetings from Sweden!
Got any pictures? I am considering using braided steel tubing for an external solution (small form factor PC and put a big radiator, pump, and res under the desk out of sight). Quick disconnect fittings would make it convenient.
I have a auto meter phantom 5721 oil pressure gauge that I need to install. I don't want to use the packaged hose but I'm not sure wat size steel braided I need. can u help me out plz?
Gary, the nut portion of the fitting that was affixed to the hose first has heavy threads on the inside that twist down on the outside of the hose. The portion that was threaded in to the nut is... well, threaded also, and while it threads into the nut, it also threads into the interior of the hose. ...There is a lot to grip on to.
Everybody bent out of shape because of the scuffs on the swivel part of the hose end probably hasn't unscrewed the same hose end 25 times from doing maintenance. I'll let you in on a secret....THEY GET SCRATCHED UP, IT'S OK. The hose will still do it's job despite a few scratches in the anodized coating.
Helps to use motor oil or earls assembly lube on hose and fittings as well.just got done making some fuel lines for first time in my life with an fittings and it was literally a cake walk.i also used earls pro-lite 350 hose so didnt have the stainless braiding to deal with so sure that made it a lot easier for me.
This helped some thanks. But i bought PTFE hose and fittings, and i had no idea what the compression ring was for, how to use it, etc. And I didnt realize you had to have flared ends to use the compression rings anyways, so it didnt matter if you had a clean cut. Maybe an updated video or a link to something with ptfe would be nice
excellent explanation; i will be using that; like said below,a 1mm cutting disc on a grinder is *the* way to cut the line,that i know. edit»» psi for that setup,please?
These will block off the flow of fluid while you make your repairs. However in a pinch, you can use a set of locking pliers to hold the fitting nut while you press the barbed end of the fitting into the hose, but be sure to make a solid repair by completely removing the hose as soon as you make it back to your garage.
Project: 5.9 Cummins Coolant By-pass "The Right way" Doing this to keep my Automatic Transmission cooler in place when using the Fleece Performance Coolant By-pass. Racing applications don't need the cooler, but street trucks need it, so I have to find a way to keep the coolant path the stock truck comes with & not burn up my 48RE.
We would suggest removing the entire length of hose from the vehicle to assemble AN fittings. The reason for the removal is because you need to see that the fitting is not slipping out of the hose end when tightening the AN hose fitting. If you are worried about fluid leading out while you are working on your hose, pick up some AN Plug Fittings -
appreciated.. new to the an fitting world.. building a k series 91 civic hatch, very cut and no glass.. all lexan. this video definitely helped me understand an fittings better!
The vise isn't bolted down. Guy proceeds to hold vise still while tightening fitting. With my BMI of 15, I feel inadequate. AN and PTFE seems to be a really solid choice if you take your time. I'm gonna clamp a socket in the vise, and then tighten the fittings accordingly.
Ah! Thanks! Finally I understood what I need to cut these hoses. 😊 Thank you. I have to fix an hose AN3, this clamp to put on the bench vise can it works? Thank you.
Hello I'm in the process of upgrading my Yamaha XJR 1300 oil hoses (keeping the existing Yamaha oil cooler. So do you sell a complete kit to suit my project, I wish to use stainless steel braided hose and black or silver AN fittings. Your advice would be much appreciated. Regards Richard
+David Sanders It also shows the quality of the fittings. Russle's tend to mar up real easy, vs what I am use to using which is aviation grade MS part number fittings which you can find pretty decently priced on ebay.
I'm building a 653T detriot for my 53 international , would your fuel line be good enough for a Diesel engine that runs high psi?? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I am facing a problem of leak from between the socket and the olive, in spite of following all the instructions given in the video and on the site. Could someone help me?
What hose and fittings do I need to make a high pressure power steering hose? (one side is 11/16 -18 AN6 inverted flare the other side is -6 M16x1.5 male oring) and I need two 90° adapters.
He shows you the 8AN connectors on a 3/8 line easy money. Now show them the 6AN connector on a 3/8 line bet you don't do so well with it... Tip for 6AN connectors: make your cut were you leave the duck tape on and it gets covered when it is in the connector"helps let you know if it's moving also helps with keeping the braids from becoming a nightmare" use Vaseline jelly when inserting connector. Take your time you will get pissed doing a 6AN connector on 3/8 line but it is a good tight fit......
@@matthewcreel1929 it's slightly bigger, I have 2 npt in fron of me atm, and i can tell you that if you use something to lubricate your 3/8 line you can put it both on the 6an and 8an
how does the an fitting not pull out of the hose? in the design of the fitting something must grab onto or expand? to lock the hose in the female side of the fitting??
when the blue end of the fitting goes into the hose it pushes out on the hose expanding it making a compression fitting inside of the red fitting making the seal
I have a oil line that has the red fitting on the actual hose. That fitting came off today and i dont have time to order another hose, i want to repair this one. How can i reconnect the fitting to the hose so i can reuse it and not have leaks?
Hi Richard, We have some questions for you. Can you give our tech line a call? 1-330-630-0240. Also, be prepared to send a few pictures, this way we can really get a good look at the issue. We look forward to your call. Thanks for watching!
I am really surprised that the Summit guy does not know what the AN- number mean size wise AN-8 is not a 3/8 ID as he mentioned in a post in the comments.
my hoses do not screw on, they clamp on and have to be installed on the engine so the fittings with the hose clamps inside the chrome fitting have to be pushed on in tight fitting spaces in the engine bay . How do you do that? Showing a film working on a bench with proper tools is one thing but show me a film installing clamp on hoses in real life!
+TekMan05 No. No plumbers tape should be used anywhere when assembling AN hoses. The only place you'd ever use teflon tape would be on an NPT to AN adaptor, and you'd ONLY use it on the tapered NPT threads.
It really depends on the hose you decide to use. They could range from 250psi up to 1000psi. Keep in mind; that also depends on the proper hose ends and installation procedure. Always match the same hose and hose end manufacturers together!
The entire point of the AN system is to that is a universally adapted standard. It was originally a milspec. If one manufacturer doesn't another, They are trash and not compliant to the specification.
I must have some bad braided line. I make a nice clean cut and as soon as I take the tape off the line opens like a funnel. Used electrical tape, duct tape, and masking tape. Hope nice till I take the tape off and it opens right up..
I have clamp on fuel lines, not screw in, no instructions on how to get them friggin clamps to fit over the braid while still installed in the end fittings! With screw in fittings the hardest part is getting the braid into the end piece. With clamp ons, even if you get the end piece on, you still have to be able to get the tubing over the ends of your fuel filter and fuel rail lines in your tight fitting engine bay area!
Looks like you scarred up the red portion from the vice grip...you could have/should have taped that as well or wrapped it in s/thing to prevent it from getting all marred.
I’ve bought a oil catch can and they sent me that with 2 type of fitting 6an and 8an... i have no clue at all on what to do with it..they didn’t even provide the hose for it..
Are there any special compression tools for swapping the fitting when taking the line out of the engine bay is not an option making it impossible to use a table vise?
You'd think the instructional video from the fitting manufacturer would say the hose cap is reverse threaded... But he even screws the cap on the wrong way in the video.
my problem is at the 2:04 mark.. As I pull the tape off my braided end EXPLODES like a kernel of popcorn... Not kidding, you can hear an audible "POP!" like the braid is under pressure.. After cutting, if you simply leave the tape in place and don't do anything else to it.. after a minute of so, the end of the tape closest to the cut will begin to swell in size.. after 5 minutes the end of the tape is 1/4" larger than the rest of the line... Something is SERIOUSLY wrong with my braided line.. It's like the braid is under extreme outward pressure. I've resorted to putting a hose clamp over the line, and then using a cut off wheel I cut right up to the edge of the hose clamp... You know what happens when you start backing the worm screw off on the clamp? Yep.. The hose end expands in size inside the clamp.. There is something wrong with my line... I've done this a handful of times before but I've never seen braided line explode outward like it's under pressure just from cutting... This is an old piece of line... Is it possible that you can ONLY install ends on NEW line? I think that must be the case..
once you fish your hose the length of the car and its all strapped down, and going through part of the frame, then its time to trim the length and install the ends. It becomes a draw, pull the line back out to put the ends on at the comfort of a bench top?, or install the ends under the car with hand tools. I chose to do it under the car, it wasn't too bad. I didn't known about using cable cutters to cut with, great idea. Used to use cut-off wheel, which is hit and miss sometimes.
Hi gsrhatch14, Braided hose is sold in predetermined lengths such a 3,6,10 & 20 feet. You’ll have to buy the length longer than what you need and cut it down to the proper length. Also, always use the same manufacturer of the plumbing components. The fittings are cut to the correct size to properly seal when assembled together.
Hi Giuseppe, We’ll need you to identify thread sizes of the factory components that you are trying to re-use like the fuel rail and/or filter. Give us a call, we’ll try to help you find adapters and hose ends! 1-330-630-0240 or 1-800-230-3030. Thanks for watching!
I wanted to replace my existing clamp on fuel lines, purchased 6' of hose and 12 fittings, ruined half of them, Their is no way I can cut the lines without ruining and fraying them, then I can't push the 5/16 ends on, they simply push the braiding back. It would be much better if summit would allow a customer to give the lengths needed and then custom make them to your needs. I ruined $100.00 worth of fuel line, I would gladly pay that and more to have them made and installed!
