100% nailed it. What gets me who ever ran new lines didn't stop and correct their mistake and let it ship like that. Any tech worth his salt is gonna inspect his work when bending up new lines to be replace old ones, so either the person literally CBA and said it'll ride 😅. Ppl like that gives us good techs a really bad image/wrap for their stupidity and negligence. Such a easy very preventable situation.
For anyone out there that sees a bunch of videos like this from different techs and you don’t know too much and maybe just trying to learn, take it from me, a technician, this guy is absolutely who you wanna be watching. There’s a reason he’s the first in 2 years to diagnose that. A number of his videos now has impressed me with his diag skills and nowadays that’s 90% of the skill you need is diagnosis, and 90% of techs don’t diag right.
The reason he's the first guy to look at it in 2 years isn't because he's a good mechanic. It's cuz the owner THOUGHT he was better than a mechanic lmao he learned a hard lesson that took two years.
Some times you have to have many failings for some one to realise there's more than meets the eye going on he,s not special, just in the right place in the right time ,but experience does go a long way
I wwnt through the same exact diagnosis with a 2005 Silverado. The customer had already had calipers, hoses, and pads on both sides. A new hard line from the drivers front block to the ABS module "without the kink in the line" and the left front was still continuously overheating. And finally a new master cylinder before getting to me. The passenger side was getting hotter than it should but nowhere near as hot as the drivers. I eventually diagnosed it as the old master cylinder had been dripping brake fluid into the booster causing the diaphragm to swell and not fully release when letting off the brake pedal. I replaced the booster and it fixed the issue. I got a normal temperature reading after my test drive and only a 4 degree difference in temperature between the front rotors. After that I preformed a complete fluid flush and exchange just for good measure as DOT 3 fluids boiling temperature is way lower the some of the readings I had recorded in my diagnosis drives. And at no extra charge to this customer. He was so grateful for this one job that he then began to bring all of his Express cargo vans to me when they needed anything fixed. I went from just me in a single bay in a literal storage facility. And third hand lift. To building a 8 bay garage with new bend pack lifts, hunter alignment rack and machine. Various hunter equipment. And my own Snap-On pitbox custom made for me all from doing a little extra and thoroughly for a huge carpet cleaning business. Take pride in your work no matter how insignificant the job and charge the customer fairly. You absolutely never know how it can change your life.
I had a truck that was wearing out the front pads way faster than he should have been every time he had got new calipers new lines pretty much a whole new braking system same problem, it turned out his Steering angle sensor was not properly calibrated causing the vehicle to slightly drag the front brakes, another shop had done all that other work without looking into why the stability control light was on
I allways assumed brake fluid couldn't hurt the diaphragm in the booster as it isnt a petroleum product (brake fluid mixes with water). Anytime I have had a booster full of brake fluid I just suck it dry and reuse. Now I HAVE seen (plenty of times) oil change places top off the brake fluid with ATF and that will very quickly destroy the master cylinder and if the fluid leaks back into the booster it will destroy it as well.
@@TechnicianRed damn really? I’ve only seen a customer do that themselves one time, They probably think because you can use atf as power steering I’n most cars that u can use it as brake fluid to
It would probably feel fine for a while, then due to overheating the rotors would warp and he'd have a vibration. I'm sure they stopped reasonably well, though likely a bit weak because they were already hot.
I was a career mechanic for 20 years before I got into facility management. I learned early on to troubleshoot a system, not a problem. I have a brake issue. Ok so I’m going to inspect the entire brake system starting at the wheels and ending at the pedal itself. Issues like this are easily prevented by the right technique.
On the one hand, no one else is gonna treat it like their own, but on the other hand, I’m now limited to my own expertise/tools/time. It’s a huge commitment, but it’s how I treat my motorcycle!
@@avwholesomegamer When I work on someone else's vehicle, I can't cut corners like I can when I work on mine. For instance, I rebuild my own caliper (using premium parts, most likely) but for theirs, the caliper more than likely gets replaced. My vehicles have the original oem calipers on them in most cases, along with chrome steel pistons in place of the original phenolic pistons.
@manual blinking trashy ones are what caused this. 😂 and I tell everyone, I ain't gonna be the fastest mechanic but I will be the most consistent & thoroughly 🤷 mainly because I've done this my whole life and don't care anymore and easy to weed out the scoundrels 😂 and I was raised to have pride in my work and always give it 100% because anything worth doing is worth doing right the first time, saves you time and headaches in the long run!
Not really. The brakes work just fine, but the piston return is delayed because of the restriction in the brake lines. This causes vibrations, but is not directly dangerous to drive with.
I don't use that steel shit any more, it's all nicopp baby! No problem with kinks. Flares easy. Makes you pay attention to how you flare. Nice to work with.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 only finding those for select pickups, mostly gm. I can re line a truck in about four hours with two spools of nicopp. It's about half again as long for a line kit. I gave up on line kits a long time ago.
@@metalsurgeon9196 Agree, locating an applicable kit is often a challenge. Then snaking the replacement lines through can be a challenge. So yes I agree, may as well go with the nicu to begin with.
I learned that the hard way replacing lines on my truck. I'm not a mechanic. It was a time suck but didn't cost too much financially. I spent one evening with steel lines and went nope. Gotta be something easier and find out there was. I learned a skill out of it so there's that. And the lines didn't leak.
I was thinking you withheld turning the camera on the car to show us a complete disaster. But, it was actually a well maintained car and the owner actually showed modest efforts to remedy the issue. No disaster here.
Grooves on brake rotors are NOT indicative of overheating. Discoloration is an indication of overheating. THis vehicle was not braking proportionally due to that bend on that brake line. Owner just needs to return to that original shop, talk to the owner/manager and then threaten to sue if they don't take corrective measures to correct their mistakes. A lazy technician can destroy the reputation of an excellent shop.
@@jeffberner3102 That’s right. I’ve been there with another shop that destroyed a customer’s entire braking system on his BMW 5 series. I helped prepare the case against the other shop and we did threatened and they settled for the repairs, about $4,500 plus reimbursement for the defective brake job that caused the damage. It helps when there’s a retired federal criminal agent with extensive court room experience as a shop manager.
The hoses usually get pinched when the hangers rust out and squeeze them really good. You can tell immediately when you try to presd the brake and no fluid comes out or very slow indicating a bloackage or restriction.
@@scientist100 That would also explain why when I flushed and replaced the brake fluid it took forever, I really should have thought more about that thanks I'll keep it in mind in the future.
Every brake job i do, i open up the clam that holds the rubber hose onto the control arm. Here in ND and MN the braket rusts and chokes down on the hose. Seen it many time where they lock up but either way, i release them on every brake job. No matter what.
Good to know!!! My jeep has had so many brake repairs the last 2 to 3 years....brakes keep constantly overheating!!! I've had many different mechanics work on the brakes. They can't figure it out. Will look into this
My 2006 Chevy truck has the exact same rubber hoses when you turn the wheels all the way to the left or to the right they tighten up like that for some reason
As a service adviser, I had a problem with a trail blazer. You would drive it for about 20 minutes. And after 20 minutes, the brakes would lock up. Had the technician take tools and loosen off the lines and it lost the brake pressure. He could drive it back to the shop. It might get hot enough it might not. What we found is the vehicle was in an accident. And it bent the firewall so that the relief port on the master's stolen door was almost closed. The hotter the engine department got, the more the firewall would bend. And it would close a relief port. Then the fluid heated up and applied the brakes.
Great video this guy is a Fantastic mechanic he knows his job and he explained everything very well. I am very careful were I bring my car for service it's hard to find a good and honest mechanic
I haven't bent a brake line in years. I purchase mine pre-bent from classic tube. Just converted my foxbody Mustang to stainless steel, for $275. They even do, fuel lines and, transmission lines. Offered in polyarmor, and stainless. They're currently working on some brake lines for a 1974 Ford f100 for me.
The one thing that sucks about brakes sometimes is that you gotta go back before you can isolate the problem. Like I had calipers that kept going out and I went through three of them before I found it was a hose. Once I fixed the hose, it was alright. In this case they had to go back one more section to the line.
whos driving around for 2 years with brake issues? now im honestly a cheap mtfker when it comes to my cars. I drive junkers but the one thing that needs to work properly is the brakes. and I learnt the hard way. next are lights than the engine. the restbu dont need is nice to have but extra.
One thing I learned as a mechanic is don't ever trust another mechanics work. Some mechanics are hacks, and some are decent people. Everyone can make a mistake. You have to check everything. And definitely don't trust the person that owns the car to work on it properly either. Most common failures are the "I did it myself" owners.
The sad part is it likely could have been passable had he used pliers on the sides of the kink to reopen the hose again so it wasn’t so restricted. nickel copper is much more pliable and less prone to kinks
I'm a full time welder and a back yard mechanic. I don't ask for the work but it sometimes lands in my lap. I've been pulling brake lines threw and you know when that soft copper kinks. I've ate the cost of figuring that shit out. I would never take payment and send a vehicle out knowing I kinked a brake line
Bad install on the lines, I've had to fix that kind of problem before. I've also had to replace the ABS modules on Fords and Dodges because they would apply the brakes without the pedal being pushed
It must be infuriating to be a hard working person who needs their car to work commute only to constantly have to fork out for breakfast maintenance. Great job lads
I had issues with my brakes for 3 years after i had a complete brake job done. Pedal would get soft after driving for a bit. Wonder if a kinked line was the issue. Never did solve the problem; totaled the car 😔
Even when the most experienced mechanic's do brake jobs they often forget to lube the caliper slides. They stick and will cause one pad to wear faster than the other. Since they are dragging of course they get hot and score the rotors.
Had a similar instance. I had a dent in the steel line before the hose. Replaced my front brake assembly just to find out my front drivers wheel was getting hot. Took a bit of headscratching to figure out.
And thats the difference between a mechanic and a parts changer. The parts changer just addresses the symptoms of the problem. The mechanic troubleshoots and tries to find the source of the problem.
