Matt, if your forks are bottoming out, is there no Pre-load adjustment? I am sure there is. Stiffen the sping a bit and put a tie wrap round the leg to make sure you are using as much of the travel at extreme braking ......do a stoppie. Then see if the compression and rebound damping needs adjusting, they may not. I always make a note of the origlnal settings as a base because you can tie yourself in knots trying sort out suspension so you can always go back to the beggining and start again. Also, bear in mind adjustment to the front will effect the rear to some extent so the whole area can become a mine field and it is a bit of a black art.
@@dirtygarageguy My Understanding is that Pre Load is the tension on the spring, if it set too soft it will bottom out. Your weight, the weight of your bike and/or your style of riding will effect the setting of your pre-load Damping controls the speed that the spring works whether it be on compression or rebound
Pre load is to offset the force of the rider due to weight. Spring rates are constant for linear springs, so bottoming out in because of rider weight * braking acceleration. More preload just means you have less compression because the spring total load is fixed
I love your reasoning for not putting new pads in straight away,it never would have accrued to me and I'd have put in the new set. See still learning cheers☺
Hi Matt, a very good mechanic told me that the difference between upper and lower level marks for brake fluid on master cylinder reservoir is the serviceable life of your brake pads, when it approaches lower mark its time to replace pads, if you top it up when you come to replace pads and push pistons back there is to much fluid for the reservoir to hold, over the years I have found this to be accurate for both cars and bikes, just a thought, luv the channel by the way.
Gonna have to do something similar tomorrow. I've begun to feel a slight, rythmic tapping through the bars, only while cruising in 6th gear. And of course I did tires, sprocket, chain and braided brake lines just a couple months ago. So, I'm left wondering if it was something I did or coincidentally a new issue. I'm anticipating hours of troubleshooting...
Probably unrelated, but I’m reminded of a recent Dave Moss Tuning video talking about how to remove and install a front wheel when you have twin discs. Specifically the order of bolting things up to make sure everything is aligned properly. Something to do with calipers not grabbing in funny angles etc.
I imagine you know the answer by now, however I would postulate that the caliper piston is near the end of the travel (worn pads / rotor). With the caliper pistons near the end of travel they are more likely to become ever so slightly miss-aligned in the bore making them 'stick' then drag the pad and cause the noise. Throw new pads on, the pistons go back to their start travel and the problem goes away (or not) /s
"I would postulate that the caliper piston is near the end of the travel " - LOL no where near - but it's probably hard to tell from the video. I've found what it is - video coming soon
I would have checked the disk first! I have had loose rivets on a disk before on an old bike I picked up. Sounded like a warped disk, needless to say I just replaced the disk immediately, I had only ridden it around the block fortunately. Pistons not returning correctly is a common problem. For me I like to sort brakes and servicing in mid autumn saves me from freezing my bit off in the bad weather. And hopefully get through till spring.
Well they're pretty much the same and they're getting replaced. To swap them over they really need to have the same 'lean' or taper to them - which isn't possible - unless you flip the pads - The 'bias' in these pads is fucking nothing - what do you want, perfection? LOL
I know you removed the calipers here to clean everything out, but are the windowed calipers designed that way so that you can change the pads without removing the calipers? That is, could you remove the pin and the spring; then pull the old pads out of the back "window"?
Mat is it good idea to use silicone grease / spray on the pistons / seals before fitting the pads ? To help protect the rubber seals so they last longer ?
Matt, nothing to do with the brakes but your comment about maxing out the rebound damping on the forks. A bit hard to tell but looking at the front tyre it doesn't look like a shortage of rebound damping, more like too much if anything, maybe you need more compression instead? A close up (Good focus) shot of the tyre tread would help.
@@dirtygarageguy Doesn't look like it me, the tyres always tell the story but if you're sure it's you that's riding it. I wasn't meaning the springs by the way, meant compression damping.
@@dirtygarageguy It's not the debris field on the tyre I was referring to it's the wear pattern on the tread that indicates rebound damping control (Or lack of it)
Without watching the full thing, it sounds like a hub bearing that has gone out of tolerance on one side. Had the same issue with disc brake rub on a bicycle.
@@dirtygarageguy Let me be more clear. A bearing going out of tolerance on one side doesn't present as if its failing. Rather what happens is that the tiniest bit of play becomes multiplied by the time you're a distance away from the centre of rotation. Alternatively, the hub may be starting to fail, giving rise to the play which presents as brake rub. Happy to be told I'm full of shit --- just guessing what may have happened based on a similar failure I had a on bicycle.
"Alternatively, the hub may be starting to fail, giving rise to the play which presents as brake rub." - after 6k miles? I get what you're saying but this happened all at once. No noise yesterday then suddenly the ringing started after medium braking. This is why I 'think' it's the scratching on the pad material. We'll find out when I replace the pads. After I did this, the noise has decreased by about 50%+ - so by removing the pads and cleaning/resetting their position something has happened
Hey Matt, so out of interest , how often are you going to change the oil on the z900 , twice a year ? every 5000miles? or just whenever you decide? I remember you did a video on it but dont think you mentioned how often you will change it on this. I chage my engine oil every 3-4k miles
We're told not to let the calipers hang, to suspend them by something. But no one seems to know WHY! What's up with that, please? Video and audio went out of sync about the time of the first use of the torque wrench. Not a big deal, just an FYI. Keep up the great work!
"We're told not to let the calipers hang, to suspend them by something. But no one seems to know WHY! What's up with that, please?" - additional stress on the hoses - they're not ment to take tensile stress - althought the weight of the caliper isn't near enough to do and permanent damage. It's more so you don't knock them about into the wheel etc
I was told not to leave them hanging as 99% of he time there in the way. People tend to put them up out the way by balancing them on something then accidentally knock them of and its the force on the pipe/unions that take a jerk and can cause damage that’s not seen and can fail at a later date. I know what I mean just hard to explain.
Hi Matt, Got a question that's in a way "somewhat" related to this issue. You've put a dial indicator on your disc to check for runout. On my bike {triumph bonneville } i noticed while doing routine brake Maintenance that my front brake also drags a bit{ normal drag} but on 1 place more. Also when i look sideways to the rim and spin the wheel i noticed that the rim{cast} isn't running true. On one spot its bend. Not much barely i can see it with the naked eye. I now the specs for run out are 0.6mm.but i don't have a dial indicator to check the run out off the rim. My question about this is how this affects in any way riding the bike? Is this safety issue would this create wheel hop? Do i need to buy a new wheel if I'm out off the 0.6mm run out? What's your take on this? Can this be just by hitting a serious puthole or could this be a bearing issue although i don't feel any play in the bearing. Thanks for your time. Regards Dieter
"On one spot its bend. Not much barely i can see it with the naked eye. I now the specs for run out are 0.6mm.but i don't have a dial indicator to check the run out off the rim." - due to the nature of casting the rim will never be perfect. Even if you had a DTI, you'd need a spec for the run out of the rim......... "Is this safety issue would this create wheel hop? Do i need to buy a new wheel if I'm out off the 0.6mm run out? What's your take on this?" - You'd have to ask and show it to Triumph. "Can this be just by hitting a serious puthole or could this be a bearing issue although i don't feel any play in the bearing" - it could have always been there unless you notice a recent change. Like I said - and I know this probably won't help that much but Triumph have to make that call.
Thanks for the quick reply, Although the rim is cast the sides are turned on a lathe so i don't think that only one spot could be turned more or less deep. So it's probably caused by myself. I wanted some Reassuring from someone that has knowledge off This stuff what the consequences could be.. But i understand that i should talk to Triumph or the triumph garage where i bought my bike. I'm no expert far from it but the shop manager and his mechanic are both dickheads. They would sell me a new rim {600€}for sure even if it's not needed
Well it depends how bad it is. If you give me an actual number then that's something - If you say you can hardly see it then I wouldn't worry. What you can do is rig up a pointer very close to the rim and then spin the wheel - if you can video it.
Hi Matt, I finally made a video with a dial indicator that shows the run out of my front rim. Around 0.3mm off run out { dial indicator is 0.01 scale}. The video Also points out that most of The runout is located at one spot. It's not 360 degrees equal { I mean the low spot aint 180 degrees away from the high spot}. Which means it more a damaged spot than axial runout? If you like I can send you the video, but to which email address can I send it? Can you give my your take on this please. Much appreciated. Thanks
Great video, learnt a lot! Do you use the tyre pressures recommended by the bike manufacturer, or the ones by the tyre manufacturer. I've noticed sometimes they don't match, sometimes by quite a bit.
Always the bike manufacturer. The tyre pressure is MAX for those tyres - they don't know what bke it's going to be fitted to. The bike manufacturers obviously do. Weight, weight distribution, frame geometry etc all matter and the tyres that are chosen require the tyre pressure to be 'x'
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I knew about the 'max' pressures on the tyre, I meant the tyre manufacturers pressures recommended for your particular bike, but you answered my question anyway! Good spot by Isacc I thought realizing that piece of the pad could have been trapped in the caliper.
I was always told not to fuck about with brake pads without gloves and preferably a mask because the dust is carcinogenic, is this just some old wives tale/not applicable to modern pads?
Them pads look nasty for 6000 miles. I just replaced my second set of fronts in my zx6r at 14000. Originals did 12000. Although they are different configuration and radial mount calipers , I’d be pretty concerned at the friction material wear rate on yours. Get some nice sintered EBC ones for fucks sake 👍
@surestick88 I’ve got the same bike as Matt and ride all year round. I’m currently on just under 11,500 miles on the stock pads and they’ve still got life in them. @The workshop it’s not riding like a pussy, brakes are for pussies lol.
Hey Matt,your wrong about the tire pressures. You said you take comments when you're wrong,so here's the thing. When you weigh alot and put weight back on the wheel,tire pressure goes down,you're not "squeezing" the tire. In fact,when you put excessive weight on a tire,the patch on the ground increases,therefore creating a larger volume,lowering the pressure. Just wanted you to know so Delbullocks doesnt get to you,lol
@@jediknight1294 you dont. You increase pressure with more weight. Max tire pressure is rated for max load. Fucking hell,its written on the tire,"max psi at max load of ?" The max pressure is higher at the max load. Sport bike tires are of course ment for other than carrying trailer loads,so you adjust accordingly to riders and riding style. But if you air a tire while on jacks,bring it down, with,for the sake of this discussion, a max load,the side wall flexes and the contact patch on the ground becomes greater(or wider) thus,increasing the the amount of volume inside,pressure goes down,so you need to add air to match the load you have put on it.
hi matt 2 things to ask 1 trying to become a patreon it just buffeting tried it on work pc now tried it on my home mac any idea and secondly what are the causes of one caliper on the front pistons drift back so get soft leaver cheers keep it going
Warped disk will push a pad back enough to cause a soft feel on the first pump. Happen all the time? Or only once in a while? Ive had it happen after a "light front" when I've been pressing on, and the front has raised, then shook its head when I've put it down. Thats normal. If it's all the time, more likely to be a miss alignment somewhere pushing the pistons back
"hi matt 2 things to ask 1 trying to become a patreon it just buffeting tried it on work pc now tried it on my home mac any idea" - nope as to any ideas - what is it doing/not doing?
Wait ..... the solution is not far off.... I hear the sound of a useless twat approaching on a highly tuned Grom ... stupid fast!! ..... and he's bringing his angle grinder ..... oh no!! ... he's crashed 😉
@@adivarso8175 Interesting, I've never had an ABS bike but on the car the bleeding procedure is no different and my mate's ABS bikes don't seem to need that. I will investigate!
@@raydavison2972 Depends on the work you're doing and the system, newer ones can be (surprise surprise) more complex than older ones, e.g after replacing master cylinder on a 2007 octavia vrs you have to plug in and tell the abs pump to cycle to purge any air out of it. The slightest bit of air in there and the brakes become utterly shit. It seems mental to need a computer to bleed system, but I will say the original master lasted well over 200,000 miles and brakes were still incredible, only replaced due to leak found on mot.
You sure your maths is right on the remaining life in those discs Matt? Two different ways of working it out that I can see. Method A; 0.14mm used in 6000 miles. Divide 0.14 by 6 and you get 0.02333333mm per thousand miles. Then the remaining 0.86mm of thickness divided by 0.02333333 gives you a remaining mileage of the best part of another 37,000 miles, based on current wear rate. Method B; 1mm of available thickness divided by the 0.14mm used goes 7.14285714 times. Times that by the 6000 miles done gives you just under 43,000 miles of life, minus the 6000 miles already done gives you the same (roughly) 37,000 miles of life left. I panicked when you said you only expected a maximum of 18,000 miles out of them, have you seen the cost of replacements!!!
LOL what? How is there 0.86mm left? The disc was 5mm, now its 4.68mm - that's 0.14mm or 140um removed - and as you said that divided by 6 = 0.020um per 1000 miles. I have 0.36mm or 360um left before I hit the 4.5mm minimum (5mm - 0.14 = 4.86mm) 360um / 20um = 18 therefore 18 LEFT on the disc - which is what I say here 17:56. I say "and this should last me another 18 thousand miles" Looking at your figures you seem to think the limit is 4.00mm - it's not, it's 4.5mm. The 6k I've done , plus the 18k possible gives me a total range of 24 - 25k miles before they die. "You sure your maths is right on the remaining life in those discs Matt?" - Yes
Lol, was the end of a long day for me and you’re right, I was working out based on a service limit of 4mm, not 4.5mm. Shit, that being the case, I better grab my micrometer later. I’m on just under 11,500 miles on my Z900, so it’ll be interesting to see how much meat is left on mine. That said, with the mileage I’m currently on I’m still on the stock front pads with life left in them, so perhaps mine haven’t worn as fast as yours. As before though, have you seen the price for a pair of OEM discs!
You obviously havent a clue what your doing .you never got the angle grinder out once,Let alone a hammer or an anvil.You coulda shaved your tyres down whilst you were at it too. seriously though I would have put new pads in and possibly ended up pulling my hair out over a silly mistake.
Fucking hilarious......"What the fuck is that ?" (spin) What IS that? (spin) "have I killed a bearing?"(spin) "The only thing I can think of..." (spin) '"Is my ABS sensor pushing against blah...that's bad" (spin) "You've gotta be kidding me (spin) (spin) "No fucking way' (spin)'"Oh, it's the dial indicator......it's so obviously not a bearing noise, it's obviously something contacting the disc SO STOP FUCKING SPINNING IT AND INVESTIGATE IT YA DICK!
@@dirtygarageguy Well it aint doing it any good is it?....and until you know what it is that's making the noise you don't know what damage it's causing.....so as soon as you hear the noise maybe just move the wheel forward and back slightly and have a good look then.....fuck me you would have seen the DTI......
"Well it aint doing it any good is it?....and until you know what it is that's making the noise you don't know what damage it's causing....." - Seen as though I've been riding around like this for 2 days - it ain't gonna suddenly explode.
@@dirtygarageguy That noise was nothing to do with the problem you had been experiencing. You were spinning the wheel up at the beginning of the video with nothing but a bit of dragging on the pads so this 'new' noise was most likely to be something you had introduced......For someone who likes to expound best practice you don't like being picked up on stuff do ya Matt? I know someone else like that.......
Pull that tampon out of your arse - LOL Look, I was half way through a conversation, and I spun the wheel and expected there to be no sound at all, and there was. I was like 'what the fuck' - from where I was I couldn't see the indicator at all, and it was stuck to the stand. So I turned the wheel to try and work out what it was. I even put the convo into the video with Isaac about how dumb it was. But of course you've never been dumbfounded by anything before - because you're perfect. Was it something major - no. Does it matter? No. Are you a prick? Maybe? Who knows........
