It a humbling exercise, the pursuit to sub . 25MOA. I'm with you on considering these aspects and taking them in with an open mind and a clean slate. Making sure we give all considerations a fair and accurate test.
I only use a Wilson trimmer I found out right quick what a Lyman was doing to the necks. Wilson makes case holders for unfired brass if you want to square up the case mouths on new brass. A tube micrometer is a handy tool to have if you are reloading to check neck thickness variations. I wouldn't mind having a trimmer set up like you use especially for high volume loading.
Wilson is a hell of a good trimmer. The only thing about it is that you have to make sure you do the exact same thing to each piece of brass because you CAN mess it up. Making sure it fits in the case holder the same every time and gets pushed toward the blade with the same pressure every time. The first 50 I ever did I goofed up and had to retrim most of them. But now I love the darn thing 😂
I have the LE Wilson trimmer. I am not following you what you mean by the advantages of having those “New” verus the “Fired” case holders. Oh also they don’t have “fired” case holders for all cartridges for some reason. But anyway was curious on what you were referring to. Cheers
@@freeandcriticalthinker4431 I got out the two case holders I have for .308 one is New Case and one is fired case and it is not marked only the box it came in. The fired holder is for just that a sized or new brass will insert too far. The New case holder is for sized or new brass I don't know how I ended up with the fired version I guess if you wanted to neck size only and trim to a certain length. The FIRED Case Holders are for Neck Sized Cases. From Wilson: If we DO NOT make a "New Case" holder for your caliber this will be all you need, we refer to these as Standard Fired Holders. I still don't understand the point of having both if one will do the job.
I just scanned some Alpha OCD and Lapua brass with a 10x Loop and you are right. They both look pretty good, but the Alpha OCD brass looks significantly better at the case mouth and neck. We pay a higher premium to get Lapua, so why don't they spend an extra buck and put the brass in a partitioned box like Alpha does? No doubt that Lapua is the gold standard and has a death hold on competitive shooting but why not just add this little feature? I am sure that would cure all the dents and dings that aren't seen on the Alpha brass. Also, the look of the inner chamfer that you presented showed thickness variation on the inner wall. Maybe it's better to neck turn and also ream to be sure the variation is properly removed. I am normally ecstatic with .25MOA but lately, I have set a goal to push the envelope and see if I can get to .1MOA and so I am incorporating the things that may matter the most, taking notes, and practicing my shooting more and more. Thanks, Greg for these great discussions.
What I have found is dry lubing has helped me, especially when reloading hunting rounds that will not be shot for months. Without it as you mentioned the bullet and case make a bonding effect, you can even hear it crack if you resize it say .001 deeper after being reloaded for months.
Yea, that seal crack noise, when I decide to change seating depth, has me worried. Can't trust that ammo. What's the vote. Unload and reload.? Will Neo lube 2 cure this or not?
I have good results using hand ID deburring tools BACKWARDS. This keeps the blades from biting into and gouging the mouth. It makes it less sensitive to how much pressure is used. It also keeps from ending up with a knife edge on the case mouth. I find I get a more consistent finish as the process becomes less sensitive to having to have the case absolutely perpendicular to the tool.
Great Video Greg. I would love to get some Alpha brass to try, but I shoot calibers that end with Weatherby and Ackley. I do consistently run my new Lapua and Peterson brass through my trimmer. I never considered using a loop to inspect it. Great idea!
I believe the Lee tool gives very similar results. Cuts the brass, trims the inside and outside. No pilot needed, just a dedicated die for each caliber.
My shooting is by no means "precision" shooting but I do like small groups...who doesn't. Still, I found the video very informative. Anyway, I use a FA Case trimmer and do an ID and OD chamfer, which works well for my kind of shooting, on a good day I can get 1/4 -1/2 MOA from my Ruger American 6.5 CM.
Not sure if you noticed the seating force change after using Giraud to chamfer the case compare to traditional VLD tools. F-Class John confirmed that the deeper angle the chamfer is, the more seating force you will get from a Hydro press or AMP Press due to the increased contact surface size after chamfer, so more friction between the brass neck and the bullet.
Great education, thanks. Questions 1. Case neck welding. Like so many of us crank out loads, and then they sit forever. As you mentioned when you finally shoot them. I would say your preasure and speed change. Will Neo lube used on the case mouth cure this welding problem. Or should I unload and then reload for my next day shoot?
Fantastic, just fantastic, I was speechless when I listened, this is the level of detail I'm looking for! But my choice is Henderson, any comments to that? BTW, I have your priming tool - there is no substitute! The best there is!
I know some people like star brass for Reloading pistol cartridges, is it possible to get decent accuracy with good preping of star brass with hard to find calibers like the .24 & .25 wssm calibers?
If cold welding is true does anybody know if companies like Hornady use anything in there necks for ammo like eldm match because they don't know when people are going to shoot um
@@conservativesniperhunter7439 am I gonna really see a difference is more of the question, not sure if myself or equipment would truly benefit. Maybe someday I'll just buy one.
