Breaking Down the Stick - Hori Real Arcade Pro N (PS4) 

Nice! It's a great stick! I suspect Hori created the stick for Japanese Tekken players because it has the same layout as the Namco Noir cabinet (Tekken 7 cabinet) and a similar color sceme than on the dedicated Tekken 7 cabinet and seems like most Japanese Tekken players are using this stick, like Nobi. But the Noir layout also works great for any kind of game of course, not just Tekken. It's also the closest modern layout to the most popular 90's Japanese arcade cabinets.

The wires for that panels ribbon cable are labeled so just label the wires on the end then cut the connector off and put those wires in the ufb screw terminals.

You can use an adapter from JLF to .187" QDC. Though, you will likely need to bend the tabs on the microswitches to fit within the confines of the plastic housing.

Interesting, I believe I have one of those already. You're talking about the harness that FocusAttack sells as an option with Korean levers right? It has the individual plugs that connect directly to the microswitches on one side and then the quick disconnect on the other? I assume I can plug that right into the board? What about the unused wires next to it that are already soldered? I apologize for all the questions btw I am just having a mental breakdown over here lol and I know you're the best in the business edit: I also have one that has a male end but it doesn't look like it would reach?

When you buy a Seimitsu stick you can most of the time choose an SS plate that is bent, to get the stick as close to the panel that it was designed for. LS-40 is a great general stick for any kind of game. LS-32 is the benchmark for a great joystick but a little getting used to because doesn't suit heavy handed gaming. LSX-Nobi-STD (buy a ball top for it) doesn't need an SS plate but you can buy an SS plate that is for LS-32 and LS-40 separately and it will fit. It's perfect for Tekken and other fighting games in my opinion and every kind of game except shmups because the heavier spring isn't so great for slower fine control movements.

Standard Hayabusa lever could also be upgraded with one of the OTTO DIY kits (V2 or V5) + an optional stainless steel pivot or pivot base. It should feel almost identical to an OTTO DIY-modded Sanwa JLF lever, as the kits work on both lever makes. FYI, I believe that the OTTO kits are NOT compatible with optical levers.

RodCU - patience. Lots of cool stuff coming from my lab soon :)

Use the SS mount. If you use a flat plate mount the ball top will sit pretty low. While I personally like this, many do not.

Thanks a lot for the quick reply and the info. Appreciated!

I'm new at this and wanted to know, is this a direct replacement as in no extra modding to make the stick work properly and how do I know which one is a SS mounting plate for when I shop around for it? Thank you.

I removed mine. But what is its purpose in the first place?

@@okakokakiev787 The purpose of the yellow triple gate is that it can be left installed on the stick when using the square gate, that way the arcade operator doesn't have to search for the restrictor when changing to 4 way and 2 way gates. But all triple restrictors have the same flaws because they share the shape with neighboring shapes and that leaves the other direction different to the other direction. There isn't a restrictor for the LS-40 that would have separate 2-way, 4-way and Square gates. I though there could be some idea/design on the yellow square restrictor if both sides were the same, so i cut two restrictors to make one complete one with both matching sides but it did not feel great because there are noticeable notches in all 4 corners when moving from touching the yellow restrictor to the white gate. So it makes the corners a bit more rounded but there are 8 annoying notches. And removing the yellow restrictor doesn't make it too square. It works perfectly with out it.

@@epicon6 ok got it

Bro I just broke down both my RAP Kai and RAP N to swap out my microswitches cause I had no frame of reference for your comment. (As to WHEN they stopped using Panasonic microswitches.) And both sticks have omron microswitches. I had installed the Otto diy v5 mod on my kai previously. So when I got my RAP N I just swapped the the entire assembly for both sticks. Since I read your comment...well I have both sticks entirely broken down in front of me and I'm just sitting here like "damn." Now gotta reassemble these mughs until I can play street fighter

Just from the part you want to change out.

Yup totally dissolves the bond.

@Jose Partida You mentioned you have a Hori RAP4, and I'm thinking about buying one. First I have a question I was hoping you could help me with, Is it possible to rewire the share button or touchpad to one of the front eight buttons (the ones used for normal play), like are the detachable cables interchangeable? Or are the share button/touch pad hardwired in place?

@Elias Turner from what I’ve found out I think it’s only possible to reprogram the options button to the turbo button on the side. That’s all I’ve seen.

@@josepartida1711 Okay thanks for the reply, I'm getting the feeling it was the PS3/360 era fight sticks that had a detachable wire you could easily reattach select/back buttonto the front eightbuttons. I know basically nothing about modding, but it seems most new sticks the share button /touchpad is hardwired in place to pcb. So you can't just switch its spot easy, darn it lol

Gar De focus attack

CaptainGiano mine sounds better than the stock DualShock 4 Audio Output

Jundem Arcade - cutting wires will be required.

Cuz the stick is floaty and sometimes overshoots instead of snapping back to neutral

@@ehvaandal i would just do it for the square gate

I like square Gates, I'm a scrub that likes to slam into my diagonals and the corners make them easier to find. Consequently my Korean backslashes are terrible but I don't know if a circle or octo gate would even help that.

SaviorGabriel do you know if it's an 8 way stick? I have the Razer panthera which is an 8 way stick with a square gate but idk about this one

I would assume it is, but I wouldn't know for certain. I'm just curious about what to do to switch out the gate.

Most fightsticks feature a restrictor plate with a interchangeable gate. Unfortunately the Hayabusa doesn’t feature the swapable gate because the gate and restrictior plate are one piece. I went to FocusAttack.com and searched for an octogonal gate and found they made a special one for the hayabusa stick for like only $4

Okay, that's good to know. I assume it's an easy switch to do, correct?

SaviorGabriel yes all you do is open up the case like he did and there will be a big mount for the joystick. Just simply unscrew the 4 screws and it should let you pop a plate right off and it’ll have a square in the center that’s the restrictor plate then pop in the new plate and just screw it back it and it’s simply as that

He recently dropped the business (temporarily?) to go back to school. I literally have one of the last ones off the website before it closed. If you look around there are some similar metal fightsticks.

I dont think there is one out yet. I would email arcade shock and ask them if they plan on making one. Let me know what they say. Also I jave the same stick, the xbox version, any idea why your cob would fail?

Just splice the wires, meaning: remove the wires from the installed lever and solder them to the harness included with the JLF so you can use the connector on the JLF and remove it whenever. Likely need to mark each wire and determine which is UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT and GND first of course.

It should fit fine, though the balltop of the lever may be shorter than expected unless you put a long shaft in it or the lever is specifically designed to fit the flat plate.

If the MS mounting plate still leaves your LS-56/-58 a bit low above the faceplate, you can buy an SS Mounting Plate P=40 now for the LS-56/-58. It installs just like the LS-32-01 does with with (also confusingly named) SS Mounting Plate. Those SS MP's shift the joystick stack upward a bit so that the shaft clears the hole with a better height between the handle and faceplate of the joystick. Those MS mounting plates are really only good with longer shaft joystick levers. For years, they sold the LS-40-01 with the straight rectangular RE Mounting Plate (called the SE Mounting Plate now) but it really needed the SS Mounting Plate (same part the LS-32-01 ships with) to install with adequate faceplate clearance. It's only been the last few years that Arcade Shock has been selling the SS MP with the LS-40-01 to people who request it without charging extra! Most vendors, still sell the LS-40-01 only with the rectangular/straight MP. You have to pay extra to them for the MP that works best 95% of the time! You really only use the straight/rectangular MP's with short-shaft joystick levers that can be installed flushed against the faceplate underside. The only time I've been able to do that is with Hori faceplates I modded. You have to do some drilling and use self-clinching M4 studs for this to work which ruins the faceplate art around the control lever! It also inevitably means getting rid of the stock (and useless for LS-32/LS-40 installations) mounting bracket. Thank goodness Hori started making ALL their joystick bases with universal mounting brackets after they introduced the HRAP V line!

This is the PS4 HRAP.N. Since it wasn't obvious, look here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H6KKDyscAbk.html you can see the touch pad.

They are entirely the same RAP N. The only differences are in the artwork and color of the case. That's about it.

no worries.. saw the store in the details.. Thanks..

KeoLiz - most likely yes with a small adapter pcb.

I think most people just lay something over the top of it and keep it protected by plexi. I'm sure there are a couple shops out there that offer a print/cut service for this.

Yes and it's supposedly very easy if you buy the Odin V2 drop-in or the T-spin drop-in. Both can be found on Etsy

You will need a hot air gun/hairdryer to remove the graphic. Very easy. Focus attack has options for custom screen prints, knobs, buttons etc...

Very easy with the EZ MOD releasing soon :)

I’d go with the Hori, all day.

@@JasenHicksFGC thk ;)

I don't think it was intentional, but I made it work to my advantage and there is now a hitbox panel available via my website!

No, it have sounds

Dude dont swap them buttons they're better than sanwa buttons

Stikma le'Gecko -not without a vinyl printed and adhesive lined wrap.

Jasen Hicks thanks bro now I know to wait for the new Mad catz or mayflash

Stikma le'Gecko - or get a Panzer Fight Stick and out perform them all ;)

Sounds like you damaged something if its not working. Are you sure you plugged it back in the correct way?

Jasen Hicks I did reconnect it the right way. I ensured that tab that secures 5 pin connector on the top. I Actually got it working after I posted that. I just disconnected the joystick and reconnected again and it started working for some reason. Thank you for the video! It did help me understand the stick more !

Syrnn 【ダラ】 My personal experience with this stick has had me wanting to switch the gate to an octagonal or to an entirely new lever altogether. Not sure if its just me but its giving me issues with my quarter circles more than a budget stick would (my qanba drone).

I went with the Madcatz TE2+. It's still a square gate too and I must say, it's a little bit akward. Do you know a site that has octagonal gates available?

Darkhearts www.focusattack.com

Look at the video from the channel Low Fierce There's a complete breakdown and rebuild. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions.

@@Eth3realwarrior thanks for the reply but i was able to figure out how to assemble it it was the clip i didnt snap it in the whole way lol but its been solid since. ty anyway though 👍

@@triiz8220 yeah those c-clips can be tricky especially if they fly across the room when snapping them in 😂

Yes, they have 6-pin connectors in the later Hori HRAP lines. The VLX and HRAP N both support optical joysticks. The Silent JLF and Silent Hayabusa are compatible with the base. That's for THIS generation. I can't speak to the PS3-era joysticks other than to say that if you wanted optical compatibility FOR SURE, then investing in a replacement or add-on PCB like an MC Cthulu or Brooks Fighting Board is probably a good idea. Those PCB boards have terminal positions (they're marked as VCC/5V; documentation will tell you which position to use for optical joysticks) that allow you to screw in power lines for optical joysticks. I have plans to perhaps install a Silent Hayabusa in one of the joystick cases I own that has an MC Cthulu.

@@TommyL514 yeah , a cheap one and hated it ...it's pad for me i hate sticks

TrojanSalesmen - I like this better than the Kai.

Allen - shouldn’t be. They are standard 30mm.

I'd like to do an episode for a lot of the major sticks out there! Need to get some sponsors/donors to help with the costs of doing these videos, unfortunately RU-vid hasn't let me monetize these videos to help offset the costs.