These trowels were put through years (arguably) of abuse in just a few minutes. Bricklayers don't treat their tools like this...at least the good bricklayers don't. Music: Bensound.com/royalty-free-music License code: AEHMSZB6M1XFBAQH
@@brickbybric I've never heard of that type of trowel. Just googled it. Interesting! I'll try one out if I can get my hands on one. Thanks for the comment!
I have a W Rose and the tip broke off. I also have my go to trowel a narrow London Bon tool and it works great used it for approximately 4 years no problems
11.5" or 12" narrow London limber Rose is all I ever used. (A 13" on block if you're feeling frisky.) You need to handle a few in person to find the right pitch, because they vary slightly. I always preferred a fairly flat angle.
i'm from England and have been using W Rose trowels from the States for years (wide London pattern) They are solid like the WHS trowels used to be, love them and the low lift.
W.Rose got their start about ten minutes from where I live. Guys used to return trowels there for whatever reason (broken, worn down, etc) and Rose would just give them another. I’ll be in your neck of the woods this coming August for the Super Trowel competition. I’ll be looking to pick up a WHS to bring back to the states! Thanks for the comment.
Cleaning a trowel......jam it into sand. Never slap it on a block or you crack it at the frog. Yes, the ring sound test is true. High singing ring is hardest forged steel. Rose probably wins, an old rose. Cutting bricks is for a hammer, too risky to cut your thumb off with a trowel. The angle of the handle means a lot. High angle handle is easier on the wrist, but slower on brick doing side top. Side toppers like a flatter angle on a London trowel, very fast trowel. You can take a Marshalltown handle off by boiling it upside down in a frying pan full of water, with a rag pull it off and put it on a Rose.
I agree 100%! Never beat the trowel against a block or wall! However, many of the guys I've worked with will just put their trowel in the bag at the end of the day, and cover their bag with a mortar pan, especially when working up high on scaffolding. Then a couple smacks against the wall in the morning. It's terrible, I know, but it gets done. Thanks for the tip about replacing the handle on a Marshalltown. Rose makes a "comfort grip" handle as well, but again, their name is felt by the hand on it. It's just something I don't like personally. I wish I could get a new "old stock" Marshalltown without their name on the handle! Thanks again for the comment!
Everyone I've ever worked with including myself smacks the trowel against the wall or a block to clean it when it's brand new you might clean it with water and a brush for the first few days but that comes to an end pretty fast
Ox trowels are made either in china or Taiwan , tyzack trowels are not made in the uk they are made in china or Taiwan . Marshalltown trowels carry a sticker made in the USA with global materials so the question would be are they made with Chinese manufactured steel . The w.rose trowels are manufactured in the u.s.a using American raw materials hence they do not carry the sticker made in the u.s.a with global materials.
@@brickbybric It seems that we are all in search of real forged carbon steel. Maybe the best trowel is the oldie but goodie you pick up up at a flea market and put a good handle on it, with the high pitched ring, has the true sound.
@@richardstetson8221 I cleaned my trowel everyday with a margin trowel at the end of the day for 40 years. Sometimes a wire brush. Shovel and wheelbarrow too. Only takes a few minutes. Mixed mortar with a mud box and a hoe for awhile. They got the same treatment. Be a professional. Keep your tools clean. And never beat on your level. A man that will beat on his level will beat on his wife.
Crikey! Where's your PPE? You could lose an eye doing that. Great drinking game though. 🎯 You should be payed stuntman rate not brickies rate for that. Loved the video and learned a lot. I will choose my next trowel wisely.
😂😂😂Thanks for the comment! I live about 5 miles from where Rose got their start. 12” is a big sucker. Every video is silly, and every video is confusing!
Just watched you in the bricklayer 500 2023 using the coke trowel and using the pick and dip method. Would you prefer to work from mortar tubs if you could ,the majority of the bricklayers in mainland Europe work from tubs when using the pick and dip method. I noticed riel voigt was in the competition again this year and seemed to be using a European pattern trowel may be a Belgian one he was using the pick and dip method as well I think .
Haha! No way would I want to work from a tub or mortar pan, at least not in a competition. Mortar boards all the way for the competitions. I do prefer a metal mortar pan when typically working, but I've never worked from one of those tubs I see in Europe. I'm not sure of the type of trowel Riel was using. I'll have to watch it again to check out his method. I'm bummed I don't get to compete this year. I have to take a year off because I won my regional (Pennsylvania) two years in a row. The regionals just started yesterday in Utah. I've gotta wait a whole year and it's gonna drive me crazy!
@@masonry201 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LJzE67-MJ3Q.html if you look at this video you will see the trowel he is using riel voigt and glen potter came 1st and derek melo and David potter came 3rd both using European trowels using pick and dip method .most likely Dutch Arnhem pattern trowels. There is , I believe a 3rd guy in the competition using the Dutch trowel and also using pick and dip . If you watch from 1.10 you see the 3rd guy briefly. Riel and derek are featured in it for a decent period of time that you’ll get a good look at the trowels . Yes that was mentioned in commentary if you win your regional competition 2 years running but don’t win the big one you have to drop out for a year . I’m not sure if that’s fair .
Great Demo. Looks like you got a pretty good workout hopping up and down on the boards -- no need for the stair stepper at the gym! Anyway, since I am just starting out, I started with a 10 inch London trowel by Marshalltown because I thought it would be easier to handle than a 12 inch. After about 2 weeks of practicing, however, I tried my luck with the 12 inch Philadelphia trowel, also by Marshalltown, and I have been using it exclusively for about the past 3 weeks. Since I have only used the Marshalltown, I don't have a frame of reference to compare to other makes. I do have 3 questions: 1.) Besides the shape, is there a functional difference between the London and the Philadelphia? Which one do you prefer? Why? 2.) Do you use a 12 inch or a 10 inch? 3.) Since I want something that doesn't set up too hard, I am using lime mortar with a 3 sand to 1 lime mix. Last night, however, I actually burned a few of my fingers in the lime mortar mix. I don't know how I did this. Maybe from mixing it by hand -- or at least with a garden, hand trowel. Anyway, I was wondering if you ever wear gloves or whether getting burned is just an occupational hazard. Thank You.
Great questions. There is a specific reason as to why the Philadelphia trowel was made, but for now, trying out different shapes and sizes of trowels is fine. I really don't have a preference, but I usually have a 10 1/2" narrow London trowel. An 11" or bigger will usually bottom out on the floor when I'm spreading on the first course of block work. But really, I don't have a preference. As for the lime mortar, two things. You can go to 4:1, sand to lime, should make it slightly less sticky and more easier to work with. Also, make sure the bag of lime says "hydrated lime". That means it has already been "slaked" (in contact with water) prior to it being dried out and pulverized and put into bags. Any mortar, in general, is "caustic". Sounds scary, but is just means it will absorb moisture from your skin, drying it out, feeling like it's burning you but it's not. It's just rapidly drying out your skin. Just double check that the lime you're buying is "hydrated". Good luck!
For anyone watching if the husky gets bent or brakes they will give you a new one at home depot I used one for 6 years to lay block and it bent so they let me get a new one i use a 9in rose for brick but I'll never have to buy a block trowel again unless they stop making them
Just built a structure tonight that was 4 bricks long by 4 bricks wide and 6 courses high. Not perfect and not pretty, but I am improving. I have run into a few problems that I'm not quite sure how to fix, but at least I know what the problems are. Just wanted to give you a shout out and say, THANK YOU for the tip on the 4 to 1 mix on the sand and mortar. It was much easier to take down after about 1 hr of set time than my previous 3 to 1 mix. As for the "hydrated" part on the lime, I can't see it on the package. It just says "Type S Lime-Cement." Is this the right mortar to be using? Again, I really appreciate the passion and the seriousness with which you approach brick laying. You are a great teacher, and I have learned a lot from you. I know it's a long shot, but do you possibly live in Colorado?
Okay, for PRACTICE mortar, you should be using a 4:1 mix of just sand and hydrated lime, NO CEMENT! This is another area where terms are confusing in masonry. Right now, you may be using Type S Masonry Cement and sand. This makes for Type S mortar when mixed 3:1 (MC to sand). Type "S" mortar has a minimum strength of 1800 psi and maximum 2500 psi. Mortar strengths are in this order from strongest to weakest -- M,S,N,O,K -- and can be remembered in order with the words MaSoN wOrK. 3 parts sand to 1 part Masonry Cement. That is used for "real" work, or permanent work. This is where it can get confusing....There is also Type S hydrated lime. This letter "S" for lime has NOTHING to do with the strength-type of mortar it can eventually make. Most bags of lime will say "Type S" or "Type SA". Don't even worry about what the S means on the bag of lime and the "A" just means it has Air-entrainment properties, but don't even mind that either. You want to be using, for practice, just lime and bar sand. Your mortar should be white or off white as in these videos. If it is gray or gray/green, you're using real mortar, and making it way more difficult on yourself. Lime/sand mortar will get about as strong as a piece of chalk for a chalkboard after a few days, and that's it. Otherwise, it acts just like "real" mortar. You can take projects apart a month from now and re-use the mortar, over and over, after crushing it back into a powder, then just add water. If you like practicing, you can go the lime and sand route, or there is a product made by Spec-Mix that is a similar practice mortar. Sold in 80 pound bags, and can be re-used over and over again. I wish I was in Colorado, I'm in PA.
When you drop your trowel a couple times off the scaffolding, and have to do the walk of shame while you get made fun of to go get it, you hold it a little tighter! :) Thanks for the comment!
Snh global holdings own the whs / tyzack brands . The also own spear and Jackson And Neill tools . Neill tools were the last company based in Sheffield England to make the whs / tyzack brands in the uk . All the tool making equipment was shipped off to the far east so none of the trowels are made in England any more . Look up the history off Neill tools for all the history
@@brickbybric Oh man! Thanks for the info! I will look into it, but that's a bummer that they're being made elsewhere now. Someone had mentioned that the Tyzack was made in China, but I didn't think that was accurate. Guess they were right! Thanks again.
