Got the same reading on my ohm meter. But being the persistent soul that I am, I followed up and found corrosion between the end of the wire and the cap on the spark plugs. Took it apart, cleaned up the contact, put it back together, got good readings. Started on the first pull.
This vid makes me want to tackle a chipper I inherited with no spark, been putting it off. I used to work on the old school Briggs back in High school. It looks like the electrical is easier today than back then to work on. Thanks for sharing.
So I'm in the same situation as it's time to be splitting wood and my wood splitter is similar to yours with the 6.0 B&S . It started right up in May and worked fine for a couple of weeks. Then, one day, no spark. I get a new spark plug....still no spark. I order a new coil since I'm over a 100+ mile round trip and wait for it. It came today. I followed the whole process of installing it. Still no spark. I tested the old coil and the new coil with my meter....no resistance readings on either coil. Bottom line is I'm stuck in the Alaskan Bush with no wood splitter.....ugh. Anyway, thanks for sharing! Your engine and this video are the closest I've found to my problem and I failed to get that satisfying ROAR at the end.
I watch Nathan Rohrbough from West Virginia on RU-vid and he pronounces put as PUTT and radiator as RODIATOR, but he gives the best advice on fixing cars, so if you pronounce something a little funny Kevin, I'll over look it, as long as your advice stays good !!!
That was an excellent video. I learned a few things about troubleshooting lawn mower engines. That's always been a weakness of mine. Thanks for sharing.
I know about all the “cheating ways” to gap the coil, but you need to gap it per the spec and with a feeler gauge. The long bladed ones are nice for this job. If not you could end up wasting money on a coil when it was just out of adjustment. See way too many home brewed ways to do things and more times than not they are incorrect or adjusted incorrectly; folks get mad when I charge them for something they supposedly did already but it was wrong. Trying to help and save someone some $$$$$ Good job Kevin.
I had to stop the video at 3:55, to post, because you said it was the coil...could be, but the tests you did at this point, have not ruled out a bad spark plug. You can test the spark plug with your meter as well. I made my own spark tester. I soldered a wire to the body of a good plug and added a clip to the other end. I then broke off the tab at the end of my test plug, making a much wider gap. The idea is that a spark plug can look like it has a good spark when, testing using the old method of removing the plug, connecting it, and laying it against grounded metal. I heard that it is harder to make a good spark when installed in the piston chamber and under pressure, etc.. In any case, the wide gap of my tester rules these things out, since if I get a spark, it must be a good strong one. To use my tester, I do not have to, but usually remove the installed spark plug, so the engine will spin easily and fast, and has no chance of starting. I connect the coil lead to my tester spark plug, positioning it so I can see the spark. I hook the ground wire from my tester to bare metal on the mower, and pull. My tester rules out a bad plug and/or shows the plug is the issue. FYI Back to watching...have a mower with no spark, doing some homework before further testing ;-)
i have coil part number 593142 for my craftsman 5.00 lawnmower and everywhere i look this part number does not show up? have gas spark plug test which is low spark new spark plug and still low spark
Great video Kevin thanks. By the way one question please - I have a Mountfield with Sumec engine (RV40 - RV150 Series - and purchased an after market coil which is failing to produce a spark. I have tested it and the reading is 6.2K Ohms - is this reading too high for this machine please?
@@Robinson-Homestead ok no worries. I was worried that it did not fall into the 2.5k-5k ohm range for this engine. I have fitted it and it is sparking away so see what happens - thanks for swift reply and loved the video, keep em coming.
I'm having the same problem with the exact same machine as you have.where did you find the coil and do you have the part number for it. Great video just what I was needing to know. Thank you
When I could not find the correct mdel and part number, I just bought the closest Briggs & Stratton coil, but not the correct one. The arms on the coil do not make full contact with the magnet. Can I grind the part of the arms so it sits flush with the magnet?
This would be a great video if the word "test" were left out of the title, I just wasted 16 minutes and still don't know what to do with my ohmmeter on my coil🙄
All it needed was a little spark, that would have cost you a couple hundred if you didn't have the knowledge. Growing up we would ride our bikes to the dump when we needed parts for our go carts. It was a great way to learn. Great info Kevin, thanks for sharing, be well my friend.
Just replaced the coil on my splitter, same engine you have here. My splitter would run for about 10 mins, and cut off. After it cooled down for about 30 mins it would restart and run for about 10 mins and cut off. Well, after replacing the coil, the problem still persists. Any ideas?
.01 in, thanks a lot! I have a Briggs N Stratton shop manual, has EVERYTHING about rebuilding these motors - EXCEPT for IGNITION (WTF? Who left out this chapter it's just kind of important... just a little?)
Informative video, but way too long. I don't need to see you screwing and unscrewing umpteen bolts. Just show a before and after. Other extraneous video parts as well.
