Set both at .004 and no need to go to top dead center ,,turn the engine over till 1 vale is all the way open and the other all the way closed ,,been doing it 20 + years that way ,,your right about looking for that little bump .
Thanks so much for sharing this. Initially I thought the starter was failing because it was barely turning over even with a jump from a good battery. I was ready to order a replacement when I poked around and found this video. After opening it up I found the valves in fact did need adjustment which was straightforward enough to fix. While I was at it I tightened that nut on the starter that you indicated could be loose. The battery and spark plug also had seen better days, so I went ahead and replaced them as well. Then I crossed my fingers, turned the key and it started right up. Yeah baby!!!! One more thing I can at least cross off the list this weekend. Again, I really appreciate your pointing me in the right direction and saving me time.
My mower only has 60 hrs on it and this just happened to me. Not battery, not starter or wiring. Adjusted valves to spec, and charged battery, started right up!! whooo f'n hoo!
Enjoy watching your videos! I recently adjusted the valve gap on a 19 HP Briggs Intek OHV and some instructions called for adjusting valves at 1/4" past TDC. So I did with good results. Anyway, thanks for posting videos!
@@peterhodgkins6985 you see other vids showing them doing it by hard rocking one valve and adjusting the other. I wonder if that would would be accurate and avoid the decompress issue. That small 6mm past TDC when adjusting isnt much but will stuff up a accurate adjustment? Also 4 thousanths is the min and thats COLD. So will expand when it all heats up. you dont want to lose any clearance and have the valve riding above the seat or barely touching it.
Wow, I had a major backfire issue through the carb. Watched a million RU-vid videos, changed the carb/magneto/spark plug, still no fix. Found this video, drained the oil, and popped off the valve cover: my exhaust valve was out about a full centimeter! Made the adjustment, filled it back up with oil: voila, all fixed! Thank you sir!
As usual, answered ALL my questions in one short video. I'm always impressed by Mustie's work and advice. My favorite youtube channel! Thank you for great information and entertainment. I have learned a LOT from your videos. Please keep it up. 😀😀
@@mustie1 You fixed 3 things, at least, with no testing between. If you had tested between each item fixed, we would know which one was the main problem.
Great video! I'm having the same issue with my mower and never thought to check that. Going to check the valve clearance and hopefully that fixes the problem. Thanks!!!
Good diagnosis Mustie. When you started the video I said check the valves and connections, it's usually the culprit. Good tip on the compression release valve on how to check to see if it's working.
Great Vid Mustie ! Last summer I had two Jd mowers . One I bought and one I repaired for a friend . The higher hour unit had the very same problem and like you I made the same repair and unfortunately ended up with the same outcome . Not a total fix ,but one at least that allowed it to start without getting out the boost pack every time . The one I repaired for a friend had a blown head gasket ( it had 45 hours on it ) The one with the hard start had about 250hrs. In general ,I've found the Jd units to be very poor quality untill you step up into the commercial lineup which of course comes at a high expense . Essentially anything you find at a lowes or Home Depot or big box store are going to have sacrifices made to get them in at a price point that consumers will accept . No or few grease points ,plastic bushings ,poor quality deck bearings,no steering linkage adjusters . About 10 years ago now I purchased a Husqvarna ,800 hours and no issues with normal maint.
THANKS! I had the exact same problem (slow crank) and was hours away from buying a new starter. I checked my valve adjustment, and both were about .005 out. I didn't think that little amount would make a difference ... but it did! I adjusted the valves and it started on the first crank - over and over.
My J Deere LA110 blew the head gasket and after I pulled the head, cleaned it up and replaced the gasket I of course had to adjust the valves. Your video was a big help with that process so thanks much. I've never done anything more involved than lube and oil change and replace filters and belts so this job was a huge jump for me. I even got it all back together with no left over hardware! I've been watching your videos for a long time and when I did a search for Briggs & Stratton valves this one popped up and I was like, "Oh it's Mustie1!" I just knew you'd be a help.
Thank you for this video - I work on both my Deeres, an LA115 & a D160. Also, my churches two Deeres... I’ll be sure to check these items now if issues arise. I made a Sheet of lessons learned about small engines from you. Thanks again from a friend in Iowa.
Very intuitive video. The problem with these valvetrains on the B&S engines is that, after normal engine wear, the valve clearances become excessive. This excessive clearance will not allow decompression.
Thank you very much for posting this :-) I noticed something on mine I didn't see in the video. I have a Briggs 20 HP (Model# 331777). When I pulled the valve cover off of it the intake rocker arm was definitely loose. To the point to where something else had to be going on. When the engine stopped running it started acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel and then it just shut off. It had been doing the hard to crank, stopping on the compression stroke thing for a while before it shut off. When I pulled the valve cover I noticed a small cap on top of the end of the exhaust valve stem (between the rocker and the stem.) Turns out there was supposed to be one on the intake valve too. No where to be found. Wasn't in the cover when I pulled it. Looks like the caps are there to take up tolerance and to keep the rockers square with the tops of the stems (wider surface area) and or to keep the tops of the stems from eating holes in the rocker arms. Briggs part number or the caps is 691843 for reference.
Very cool. I could have used this video last summer for my friends Sears that has the same motor. :) However while I got it fixed I did notice one of the push rods was bent, but I never checked the nut on the starter so I will go back and do that when I help them get it ready for the summer mowing season.
Exactly the same problem on my 18.5hp briggs intek engine on my craftsman mower. Verified the gap specs and about 10 min later, my mower was up and running better than it has ran in a long time. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the tip on the starter stud! My brother had a little 1816B Case skid steer that had a Tecumseh OHV 16 HP in it and it had a hand belt release for the hydros but not the boom and bucket hydraulics and that alone was almost enough to keep the starter from spinning it fast enough to start. Thanks for the tip on the belts. You kinda forget about all this stuff.
I’ve learned my lesson about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
Thank you man! I have this exact same mower with this problem. I put a new starter on because it was bad when i purchased it off of a gentleman and it worked for 2 starts then i realized that i only had the issue when its on the compression stroke. Im excited to tear into it tomorrow and hopefully fix it!
I'm having simular issues on a 14.5 hp. First off, thank you for all your tips& fixes. It has help me alot in my projects I've worked on.What is a good web site I can find specs for future small engine projects. I'm always called on from freinds and family, for fixing small engines. I'm like a magnet. Everyone's always turning to me for fixes.thank you again ,love your channel👍👍
Thank You!! I've been chasing this problem for some time thinking it was starter/battery related. After numerous searches and found your video. My valves were way out of adjustment, after adjustment the engine cranks over with no hesitation. Starts like a champ now.
I'm from the UK and have a Toro wheelhorse 12 32 and have had a problem of the starter not working off the battery. I've put up with it for 2 years by putting a jumper on the battery. having seen your video I took off the power lead to the starter and the nut underneath was loose like in your video. it now starts perfectly. many thanks for posting amazing fixes. good job.
Wow! I've been struggling with starting my Craftsman DYT 4000 Lawn Tractor for years! Swapped out batteries, tried higher CCA batteries with no success. Stumbled across this video and since my tractor has a 31xxxx series engine I decided to check the valve clearance. They were way off! Brought the intake to .003 and the exhaust to .005 and it now cranks/starts with ease! The only difference with my engine was the center "screw" required a T20 star bit and it seems it's only purpose is to lock down the 10mm nut. It was the nut that actually changed the valve clearance. Thanks Mustie1!
Thank you, been having a problem with my L100 not starting, adjusted the valves like you showed and like a new mower. Thanks for showing the details on adjusting the valves saved me from buying a new mower.
Best video yet on hard start. I got a new battery, New starter, adjusted Valves and no little bump that I could see when I turned the flywheel by hand. Damn, I think it is the compression release on the cam. Crap. Anyway I watched about 10 other videos and you are the champ. Thanks!
Nice informative video, Thanks ! I knew a guy who used to work in a Sears small engine repair shop. Their SOP was to convince the customers that the cost for repairs would exceed the cost to purchase new units. After selling new units to the customers, the mechanics would place the `defective` units outside the building in the `junk` pile, then would take the units home and fix them. 99.9% of the units could be fixed for WAY under the cost of new units. Moral of the story is that most people are unknowing and gullible.
Very nice video. Very helpful. I have an Intek on my old 2009 John Deere LA105 and for whatever reason, the valves have never gotten out of adjustment since new. I don't know why, but it's nice to see how easy it is if it ever does need it.
Mustie1!!! I would of never thought of intake valve adjustment and I tend to leave my valves loose.... Also tightening the back up nut on the + terminal of the starter, 2 excellent points and I thought I knew most everything about small engines!!!!
Ustie1 like your videos, most of the Briggs guys say Exhaust valve is mostly reason for hard start condition. But best to do both. The also say once at top dead center on compression stroke to roll after dead center so the gauge tool, screw driver or extension move back in 1/4" then adjust valves there. I am having a similar probl with a 17.5 HP ohv . Thanks and keep the vids coming.
Yup. Initially the decompresser worked on the exhaust valve. Mainly on the bigger hp horizontal shaft motors. First u got to determine if decompresser works on intake or exhaust. On some earlier motors decompresser assembly failed real easy, hence Mustie suggested u check first. Good point.
This definitely helped me understand what the hell is going in with my motor. Replaced the battery and starter and still can't get over the hill of the compression stroke. Thanks so much for helping me understand what my problem mist likely is.
I've been having this problem with a cub cadet. I'm headed out now to try all the stuff you talked about. Great videos. You should have your own TV show. Haha Musties Back Yard Mechanics. 👍👍
Thank you again Mustie. Thats the exact engine and set up in my craftsman Lt 1000. My engine is doing the same thing and it's only intermittent so hopefully not internal. My engine may have a little different valve lash it's the 17.5 intec engine. So that is my project for the morning. Have a good day. I remember you mentioned that compression release on an lt 1000 you worked on in another video so my mind isn't a feeble as some family members say it is. PS I just realized it is after all a Wednesday. So I hope to get over the hump.
Jack Allen if it’s a twin the push rod is probably bent. The valve guides often move out of place on those engines and they need to be pressed back in and notched for placement.
Have the same problem with my racing lawnmower we literally have a pull cord to help the starter turn it over one of my buddies reset the valves maybe he did them opposite? Really hoping it’s not the camshaft
Above all of the videos on this RU-vid you're the only guy who tells how to tell if the compression relief is broken. The best video yet thanks a bunch.
thank you for mentioning the double starter bolt that tightens up the contacts. After swearing at my tractor for several days and doing a major tune up, tightening that solved the starting problem! :)
Perfect fix for my Z225 with a 31XXXX! Thought I was gonna have to buy a new engine since I don't have enough experience to replace the crank. Cranked right up after adjusting the valves even after a year of sitting there. Thanks so much! My intake was at .012 and my exhaust was .022, reset to .004 and .005. Then I could see the "little bump" of de-compression relief.
I had this problem of hard-starting for 12 years on my Briggs engine. The valves were misadjusted from the factory to the tune of about .008 which would not allow the compression release mechanism to work properly. Finally, discovered this problem, adjusted the valves to the .004 spec. and it now starts like a dream.
Good stuff 😀 like your vids lot of info. I too go to the local dump and look for some possible projects. I'm in a small town so not much of a selection but I do find things to work on. Again I like your vids and info. Thanks
I had somewhat the same problem with my tractor last year, but also the crap gas ate up the carburetor and the cylinder filled up with gas. I had to put a shut off valve on the gas line and shut it off between using. Great video
+Edward Weber hydro lock will get ya too, make sure you change the oil if that happens as gas will go past the rings and fill the crank case thinning the oil
I have the same engine doing the same thing . I adjusted the valves but still nothing , tried a bigger Battery but no good. I checked the cam shaft but it’s not broke and valves are not bent or broke?
I had the same problem a few years ago and replaced the battery and solenoid. Then I found a video on the valve adjustment. That solved the problem. They seem to need adjusting every year now.
+Mustie1 Yea I deal with Briggs generators. They need adjustment every 100 hrs, I've found em tight prematurely if they are running warm from blocked fins. Lp fuel is the killer , ive had plenty of the 570,627,and the 992cc Briggs have no clearance if it's gone 150-170hrs without adjusting.
Great discovery video brother, the main problem with all the Intek engines with the same symptoms... You'll get a lot of friends commenting on this one, as you solved their problem !!
Thanks for the help, my John Deere is purring again. You probably saved me a couple hundred dollars and gave me the satisfaction of fixing my own stuff!
Hi,I have a Craftsman 4 years old Riding mower 21 hp Briggs & stratton engine . Motor hard to turn with starter ,new starter & battery--It make 3/4 turn & if if make 1 to 2 turn start right up. When starter can not turn it heat up ,without Spark plug engine move ok , I checked the valve clearance .004 & .006 -- Do you think it is a Compression release valve ,how I can be sure of that. Please help ,what other thing it could be?
Great video. Lots of knowledge. Question. I tipped my mower in its side to change the drive belt. That seems to have triggered alll kinds of problems. Oil leaked out of air filter intake while in its side. Could that have messed my mower up? Many thanks.
Question - if you are at top dead center (isn't it on the compression release), shouldn't you go just a tad past TDC.. to make sure you are not on the compression release.. Additionally - if the exhaust is completely open then the intake would be completely closed and not on the compression release - couldn't you set the intake that way?
Thank you much for your video here. If I could ask.... If I don't have the "bump" on intake... can I absorb that somehow in the adjustments so my mower will start easier? 95 sure this is the problem...just need to know this if you will? Thanks for your time!
Mustie - thank you for indicating which is the compression stroke to set at (when the valves don't move) .. I've watched plenty of vids on valve adjustments, first time someone has mentioned where exactly to set for the gauge adjustment. I am having the same issue. won't go over the hump unless my battery is freshly fully charged. Otherwise will not crank. thank you !