Briggs Carb repair step by step 

Cali Pagerbeek 👍😁thanks

I agree!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it helped.. Thanks for watching and sharing!

Sebastian Ferman 👍😁

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:-)

Great video.

Melvin Darst thank you.. And thanks for watching!

Ryan Courts awesome! 👍

Mclane is a good, if not best, edger!!!! good luck!

Marcus Schroeder Awesome! Hopes it all works out 😀

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Mark K 👍😁

All that kill switch does is ground the wire that's going to the coil so just find a way to ground The Wire under a partial momentary switch or a switch that you'll have to remember to turn on to start it up

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Thanks, the model number can be found on the blower housing. The majority of them can be found where the blower housing is closest to the spark plug. However on the earlier models the model number is stamped usually on the rounded part where it's covering the flywheel. It will be stamped in the metal and either one of those locations.

Wow.. I would not believe your spark plug would have been the issue.. Good fix!

This is a four-stroke old school edger. You do not mix the gas with oil

@@Foxboss9 I have no problem telling between 2&4 cycle and I am 80 plus . Good video.

Needle and seat need replaced or possibly the float..... At minimum the float may need adjusted

tudo cervera thanks!

If its a new blade it needs adjusted...If it's an old blade it may just be wore down...

awesomesocks444 sure thing :-)

There must be a break in the wire or one of its connections... Or it became unplugged from the coil.... It's just a grouding wire

I checked the wire going to the coil and all was good. I even unplugged it and plugged it back in. Would it have anything to do with the throttle cable?

Check with Small engine parts business, local or online a lot of kits cover quite a few models use the same number and can be looked up based on just the series number of engine...

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Most likely a valve adjustment. You might have to real lap the valves

Sorry I don't there's many variables.

If it's my mine or if the customer is complaining of additional running issues I would pull it all off too, but for expediency I try not to dig too far. Especially if rust is involved. Always a chance of an exhaust bolt breaking off at the step down where the threads start.

Foxboss9 I forgot about the rust factor up north, sorry.

I wish I could forget about it.. I hate the cold and rust arrghh!!

Sure...

So maybe I should just purchase a new rubber diafram? An a can of carb cleaner with compress air! What you think?

You'll find on most of these small engines you can't buy just a single gasket you have to buy a kit. It's not economical for them to make individual gaskets available for sale so they put them in a kit that you have to buy. Even the automotive manufacturers do that in the aftermarket

+steve h if you have not done so already make sure the air cleaner is not restricted the fuel is fresh with no water and the choke is fully opening when not in choke position then "try" adjusting the mixture screw to get rid of the surge a lean mixture (mixture screw turned in to much) will make governor surge ,, "if that's no help "then" clean carb and rebuild the pulse pump in it..

Sorry, I don't have any engines here that I can show you...

Some need pried a little harder.. Just be careful not to break mounting flange.. Double check that yours isn't a 4 bolt carb..

On this one it has linkage that pulls the cylinder choke that is connected to the throttle linkage

Foxboss9 Do you think I can put my choke by the throttle lever. Your 3.0 looks exactly like mine 2.0 set up, but with different type of choke. Do you have the butterfly choke ?

You need to rebuild the carb and clean the fuel supply... From the tank all the way to the carb inlet..

@@Foxboss9 Actually, what I did was to take a close look at the setup. Instead of having the throttle/choke cable in the middle hole, i had it in the top one. And the blade spring was in the bottom hole. I loosened the throttle clamp screw and moved the little hook to the middle position and moved the cable so that the choke was all the way out when the control handle showed to be in the choke position. Then I tightened the screw. I moved the blade spring to the top hole on the cam lever. Finally I screwed the fuel adjustment screw all the way in and 1 ½ turns out. Evidently there is only one fuel adjustment on this carb rather than two like so many have (bottom of the fuel bowl). One crank and started and ran rough. With my hand on the throttle, I eased it to the slow position while adjusting the carburetor until the rpm came up. I continued to do this until it ran smoothly in the lowest speed setting. The I slowly moved the throttle to fast position, listening to be sure it was still running smoothly and the rpm were coming up. That was my final adjustment. To note, I am running non-ethanol gasoline in all of my engines, my weedeater, my leaf-blower, my edger and my mower. I expect that my carburetor replacing days are over. With regard to your comment, I replaced the carburetor,, cleaned out the tank and the entire system. That was my starting point. I would like to see you Post a video on the various issues related to a BP-42 Ryobi leaf blower, i.e. replacement carb model or rebuild and setting up the unit. with carb settings etc. Thanks for your quick reply.

All those pieces should move pretty freely. Other than bad gas buildup or rust the throttle blade should move pretty easily along with the governor that controls it

Yes. Pour it out. A lot of shops will do it that way to save the risk of stripping the oil drain bolt threads in the block. Or use an oil extractor like in my other video. Make sure when you tip the mower to do so with the Carb side up or spark plug side/front up or oil will fill the carb or cylinder first before it stars to pour out.

Should be identical.. 👍

99 percent chance of it NOT being the spark plug But, it's easy to change. If it didn't backfire or run on starting fluid you may have a ignition coil issue.

If it's been sitting awhile it's probably a fuel issue... If it runs when you lightly spray carb cleaner directly in the carbs air intake Then, it is definitely a fuel issue..

If all the bolts are loose it Sounds like there is not enough clearance between the engine and the framework on the handle. The only thing you really can do is loosen the engine mounting bolts or remove parts of the frame to allow it come off

The two kits that are necessary are linked in the description

Most likely a fuel delivery issue.. It's easier to buy a replacement carburetor than to rebuild your old one.. Good luck.. ✌️

Carlos if your mower runs fine for about 5 minutes then dies out and starts back up after it cools down it is more than likely you coil is bad and overheating. Seen that many many times. Hope this helps ~!~!

Definitely check with your local mower repair shops. You'd be surprised what kind of resources they have still as they are repairing the stuff too

@@Foxboss9 thanks, great idea!

zr1sparky1 👍😁

Hey! I have a question....I have a Huskee with a547cc powermore, the mtd engine. Apparently a Honda clone. Well.. It runs until hot them stutters and stalls... After it cools it starts right back up.. It's NOT VAPOR lock. Any ideas?

zr1sparky1 90% of the time when I hear that a mower stops running after it gets warm it's because of a fuel delivery problem. Check to make sure that your gas tank is venting correctly through the gas cap. The way to check if it's a fuel delivery issue is whenever it stops running take the air cleaner off and see if it will start running again on carb cleaner as you spray it in. That power more is a Chinese engine but has making a pretty good reputation for itself. A lot of the Chinese engines have problems with the spark plugs if you use the factory ones. So if it's some cheap Chinese spark plug in there replace it. Other than that I have rarely had a coil that would get hot and then shut off. Again, that can be checked by looking for spark once it shuts off and you try cranking to start it again. Of course, the easiest way to check for spark is just spray carb cleaner directly in the carburetor as you're cranking it. If there is Spark it will definitely ignite that carb cleaner.

zr1sparky1 oh, I forgot to mention, one other weird thing that occasionally happens is safety switches once they get warm and expand, May disengage to the point where the mower gets shut off. Of course whenever the Plastics get hard again the contact will be made again so it'll run for a while until it gets hot and expands. That is a long shot that's only happened on a couple of mowers that I've worked on in the past.

I did verify the gas tank is venting by running it with the cap loose but it seems shutters and stalls after about 10 minutes... Quicker when ambient is warmer. You don't think it's a carb issue? I can find nothing on this engine! I appreciate your insights. Pulled the spark plug and it looked perfect but I'll check to see if it's a good one.. The mower is barely a couple of years old... So you're thinking a weird ignition problem?

:-)

Dan O'Connor the tubes that go into the tank won't clear so that the cables and linkage can be disconnected... Plus the tank should always be cleaned and flushed when cleaning carb..

Benjamin Oscarlece fuel delivery is insufficient... there are so many things to look at. The gas cap not venting correctly, debris in the gas tank, old gas, plugged fuel filter, float not adjusted correctly, debris in the main jet, fuel pump diaphragm not working correctly, but it's definitely something with the fuel delivery.

Jacks small engine..

john palma 👍😁