I came across very similar problem, working on a 23 hp vanguard , Briggs and Stratton , not the same thing however same principles I did not have the same dramas as you however watching your video gave me the confidence and some insight to remove a pulley with a keyway !! So Thankyou from Adelaide in south Australia
You are welcome, I hope the removal went well. I have to resort to a zip disc cutter on a grinder sometimes, it destroys the pulley, but at least it is off the motor. We had a -17 Celcius morning here this week Brrrrrrr! I bet it is nice and warm down under!
Talking about the sheet metal stack pulleys on thee engine on a riding mower, I made a U shaped plate out of 3/8" metal, then I drilled a hole on each top leg of the U and bolted a 3/8"X2 flat strap across the top of the U. The U is about 1 1/2" across and that lets it slide onto the pulley right above the bottom pulley. Then bolt the strap across the open end of the U. I then have two holes drilled and tapped 3/8" centered on the bottom diameter of the U and about 8" apart. I have a puller frame that has two slots that is about 1' long. I run two bolts down through the slots and down into the tapped holes. It puts an even pull all around on the flimsy pulleys and works great usually.
lol :) You may have something there! I bet a person could do that, especially getting input from some farmers, since they can practically fix anything with baling wire!
Liquid wrench and torch heat and taping with a small hammer and a little pressure with a pry bar while taping it takes time for the liquid wrench to work but it does work with heat to get it to flow.
ChargerMiles007 I only have one (i.imgur.com/DZ0XBbh.jpg) So sometimes I get _really_ creative with clamps and stack-ups and all sorts of funky stuff. Haven't /needed/ to buy a bigger one yet :P
I had a similar feat with a lawnmower self-propel pulley, essentially had to grind it down to nothing and use the impact on the puller tool to get the remaining bit off. The flimsy materials the pulley was made of bent and broke using the puller tool.
Yes, those sheet metal pulleys are a true pain! I have only managed to remove 2 or 3 of them intact so far! Most have ended up a mangled mess on the shop floor! Plus trying to buy a replacement (not from the original maker) is usually a real pain, I have to do that as a teenager when they pulleys were squashed at a repair place, and the mower was out of production.
there is a key that goes between the pulley and shaft that snugs it up. do you put the key in first then the pulley or put the pulley on first then the key?
Heat! and lot's of it. An acetylene torch with A rosebud tip will expand those cast iron pulleys fast enough so the crank stays relatively cool. That will break the rust bond. An impact gun (air or electric ) on the puller will also give A fast yank before the pulley has A chance to cool. Wear those safety goggles! Heat won't work on aluminum or pot metal as it will melt them but an impact used cold gets them moving pretty good. They don't rust on like cast iron or stamped steel. There are puller's made that have A cage built on to them. Can't think of the name right now but A google search should find them. Problem is there not cheap and I am, so I never bought any, and at my age I wouldn't make the extra cost back from the amount of work I do. Heck, I don't buy green bananas anymore! Good luck!
Yup! Most people use A small propane torch and all they do is spread the heat into the crank shaft. This does nothing to expand the pulley. A LP torch should work but I have never tried one. When I was young acetylene torches were common and reasonably cheap. Unfortunately this is no longer the case but if you can find A deal at an auction or A swap meet grab it! It will become the handiest tool in the shop.
I actually already have an acetylene torch, though I haven't used it in years, due to the tank rental costs. I have a brazing torch I use MAPP gas in, it puts out some decent heat, though maybe not enough for this job. I also have a brazing torch that uses the small oxygen cylinders that only last about 10 minutes and cost $10 :( Lately I have started using a zip disc on a grinder to cut the pulleys apart, then split them with a chisel, seems to work OK, but of course the pulley is scrap afterwards!
Yup. And good cast iron pulleys are getting hard to find. Hardware store's only seem to carry aluminium or pot metal these days. I own my tanks but I need to watch inspection dates so I can trade them before the hydro test date comes around or I get charged A mint.
This is good info but one thing that comes to mind is- when putting the pulley back on, how do you know how far to put up the shaft again. Is it as simple as measuring the gap before removing?
Yes, I think measuring the gap before doing anything to it would be a great idea. Some times I take a few pictures of things before I attempt to tear something apart, like an engine governor linkage. That way it doesn't matter how bad my memory is!!! : )
ChargerMiles007 Have have a video showing me un-boxing it but haven't had time to get it up yet. Been having major problems with my truck finally figured it out and the throttle pedal position sensor was acting nuts, I got it changed last night in the dark. Getting ready for firearms deer season here it starts Sat. and we are leaving for a week long camping trip in the morning. Hows your week going?
Yes, some of them are real Bears to get off! Penetrating and or heat usually do the job, along with a puller, though sometimes I swear I was going to break the puller!
Don't know where your comment is "zzdog" It was listed as spam!!! Hint, this new commenting reply system is making me pull my freekin hair out!!!!! It sucks with a capital S >:(( RU-vid, give us back the old RU-vid!!!!!!! Grrrrrrr! I feel another "Zontaar Zaps Google+ with his massive Ray Gun"{ vid coming on!!! lol :)
