PSA - on some Briggs engines the aluminum push rods are for exhaust. At some point they switched - make sure you look up a BOM for your specific engine to make sure you have them correct.
I think the idea for aluminum pushrod use was driving cost down weight reduction and damage mitigation. Cheaper lighter and If a rod was thrown the block wouldn't pay the price. If there was a notification to customers to get their valve lash checked every couple years, think of all the engine teardowns could be avoided but then again bent rods in the pan make me money
I use your vid as a reference when building a V-Twin. One thing to your subscribers, once your build is complete, pull you sparkplug wires off and use your starter, turning it over for 30 secs, to build oil pressure in the engine to make sure everything is lubed before firing. The assembly lube will keep things lubed until the oil takes over. It will still smoke, as said, but the engine will have the lubrication that's needed. I've done 7 of these without any issues. Happy rebuilding!
This was covered but i figured it might help for someone.. Great video by the way !! Single Cylinder OHV - Model Series 260700, 261700 upper push rod (exhaust) is hollow. Model Series 28N700, 28Q700, 28U700, 28W700, 287707, 310700, 312700, 313700 exhaust push rod has a red band of paint for identification and is steel. Intek V-Twin OHV - Intake push rods are aluminum. Vanguard V-Twin - All models (except 540000, 610000) exhaust valve push rods are aluminum. Model Series 540000 and 610000, all push rods aluminum.
Thanks a bunch. I picked up a riding mower with almost the same engine and figured out I need to replace the piston rings. I've never worked on an engine and your video helps out so much. Thanks.
I'm only 3 minutes into this and am already so damn grateful. Thanks mate. very well done for sure. I'll attempt my first rings replacement soon and this was great.
my old mower www.google.com/search?q=1999+yard+machine+17+hp+42+in&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiCn_PFt6DqAhUzGTQIHbGeB3sQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=1999+yard+machine+17+hp+42+in&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1CbrgJYicYCYKLSAmgAcAB4AIABiQGIAZEGkgEDMC42mAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWc&sclient=img&ei=22n2XsLFC7Oy0PEPsb2e2Ac&bih=613&biw=1271&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS881US881#imgrc=DVbSFhVbRzqMIM
0:06 Thank you for this video! I know it is an older one but it was so very interesting and helpful. I have just finished rebuilding a 20hp B&S Vanguard. It turned out that it failed due to the cooling fins filling up with dirt, cuttings and detritus, and the exhaust valve seat moved and the valve wouldn’t close, so it was only running on one cylinder. The fix was to put a new seat in, lap all of the valves, replace one exhaust pushrod, and set the valve clearances before reassembling. It fired up first time and runs very smoothly. Thank you again!
As an inside tip, B&S assembly techs turn the crank to the bottom and push the piston down while turning. This insures that the connecting rod caps are at the bottom and easy to install and torque.
The original owner sounded like a “Hold my Beer I can do that “ kind of guy . This process is very intricate . I would educate myself thoroughly before going into this . And having a good clean dry place . Have 4 of these 35 v twins on boats and lawn engines . I know soon or later it will be my time . This is a great video . Thank you
Great video! I have a Snapper Z1404K ZTR that has had a 16hp Vanguard swapped on a few years back by my uncle. Spring mowing season is here, so I changed the oil and filter (both B&S spec as I have done for the 10 yrs I have owned the mower) and after a half hour of mowing "BAM! CRUNCH!" , so I shut her down quick. Checked the oil, level fine, let her cool off, starts up fine, but no power under load. I believe I have experienced the governor failure that seems common to these engines. I found another video detailing the specifics on that, but wanted more info on the actual tear down, which I got here! I think my uncle paid nearly $5k for the mower in the mid 90's, and my aunt had trouble with the original 14hp engine after he passed away and she had the new 16hp installed (around $2k after install (!)). It has been a great, trouble free mower (and was free to me), so I want to keep it going! Thanks again!
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I fear your problem is much more serious than a bad governor. Sounds like you broke a rod and are now running on one cylinder. Take out the plugs and put a straw or piece of plastic down until it touches the piston. Turn the engine over slowly by hand. Both straws should move. If one doesn't, you've got a broken rod
Thanks a bunch for the video. Yours was by far the best I found. BTW, as pointed out below, my Vanguard engine uses aluminum rods on the exhaust. Also, Briggs publishes a service manual (PN 272144 for Vanguard V-twin series) for each engine series that lists torque specs, service procedures, engine tear down & rebuild. The manual leaves out a lot of details (I guess it assumes the manual will only be used by service techs); but works well in conjunction with this video. I reached out to Briggs with my engine number and they sent me a full parts list (and the part number for the service manual). The manual is $23, but it was a good investment for me. Also, Briggs has changed the way they mark piston rings. My instruction sheet stated a 'T' would be stamped on the top side of the ring. The rings actually have an 'R' ('R' is placed to the right of the ring gap). The top ring is supposed to have one paint dot and middle ring two paint dots (but mine only had one dot on each set). The shinny ring is top most on my 16HP Vanguard.
Cool video. Never seen the inside of the crankcase on a small engine. Replacing my head gasket this coming week and was surfing for tips when I ran up on your video. Good job explaining the ins and outs
Best, most thorough and helpful presentation I've seen yet on the B&S, et al, twins. I have a 26 & 18 Vanguard, and a 21 Intel that I have to fix & this is invaluable! B&S manual falls waaaay short.
Thank you for helping out a "youtube mechanic" like myself. I'd be like the guy you bought that engine from without videos like this. Much appreciation
The head gaskets tend to fail some, I have used spray copper coat on the head gaskets, and it tends to work great. It's important to keep the cooling fans and cooling fins clean also. If the fins are blocked, engine will overheat and can cause the valve seat to move in the head which can lead to a bent pushrod.
Great video! Suggestion, put thread sealant on the intake and exhaust rocker bolts to prevent oil leaking past the threads. Yes, they are thru-holes to the outside.
You can replace the alum rod with a steel. It won't hurt. I have made many sump gaskets with frozen pizza boxes over many years. Never had a problem. And have made gaskets of cereal boxes for cars and trucks.have been a motor head for 60 years. Never had one leak on anything. Use grease as gasket sealer. Good to see young people working with their hands.
Ive made many gaskets the same way, but I prefer the generic felpro gasket rolls you can buy at the auto parts stores now. Theyre more more resistant to moisture during the cutting process and they come in a variety of thicknesses. I can usually get several gaskets out of one $5 roll
The manual for my Briggs Intek engine is specific on setting the valve clearances. Adjust cylinder one for compression tdc like you did and then using a pencil or gauge as a measure continue turning the engine until the piston goes past tdc and down by 1/4 inch. Set the cylinder 1 valve clearances here.This way you will be clear of any decompression lever valve lift. Now turn the flywheel through 270 degrees and you will be at Cylinder 2 compression stroke and 1/4 inch past TDC. Adjust cylinder 2 valve clearances at this position.
your manual is wrong because this is exactly what the briggs and Stratton manual for these engines say! 1.Set No. 1 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke. a.Adjust valves and check, Fig. 17. Valve Clearance (cold) IN and EX .005" (0.13 mm) b.Torque adjusting screws and jam nuts to 60 in. Ibs. (6.6 Nm). 2.Set No. 2 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke. a.Repeat for No. 2 cylinder.
Incredible video man... I just bought a zero turn mower with a seized engine (I believe it may have threw a rod) that has a B&S V-Twin Intek in it (22hp). I would like to try to rebuild it myself and your steps gave me much more confidence about it. Thank you!
Thanks for the video and especially the PSA. My v-twin 18 vangaurd list the aluminum push rod as exhaust and the steel one as intake. Great video and explanation.
Request for advice: I have this same engine (B&S Intek V Twin 22hp) on my zero turn mower, 13 years old. I apparently hadn't kept the exterior, especially under the shroud, properly cleaned of build up and debris over the years, although I've always blown all the visible grass and dust off the exterior after every mowing. Anyway, it recently failed - backfiring and knocking. I tried replacing the spark plugs - no change. Upon removing the rocker covers, I discovered two bent push rods on one of the cylinders, the other side appeared fine. These engines apparently are susceptible to the valve guides sliding out if they overheat (not enough ventilation, low oil, Texas heat, etc.). This was my situation. The steel push rod was completely dislodged and the aluminum push rod was bent but still in place. I replaced them both but first tapped the guides back down to where the needed to be (I believe), so it wouldn't happen again. After closing it back up and giving the exterior a thorough cleaning (looks almost like new now), the engine starts but has some issues: 1. It accelerates slowly, meaning that when I move the throttle to full, it takes a little longer to get up to that speed than it used to. Doesn't seem to be a big deal, but may be symptomatic of a problem. 2. When I engage the PTO, it bogs down considerably. I'm afraid that the bent push rods were just one of potential multiple problems. Can you suggest some diagnosis steps I should take to rule things out? It's probably obvious that I'm not a mechanic and don't have lots of specialized tools but I'm definitely willing to give it a shot rather than shell out $100s or $1000s if not absolutely necessary. Thank you for your time and for this detailed video!
Donald Smith there are 3 things you should check for. First, take the plugs out and carefully put a screwdriver in the hole until you touch the piston. Turn the engine over by hand and confirm the pistons are moving. Do this on both sides. Next check to make sure that the valves are adjusted properly. I set everything to .005" clearance. Finally, make sure you don't have blown head gaskets. You can remove the heads and do a visual check or you can do a leak down test. You can usually borrow a gauge from a auto shop.
Well, it either fixed itself overnight or (more likely) it was the rocker clearance. I first confirmed the pistons were moving (whew!). Then I checked the compression with a kit from a local auto shop - looked good and little to no leakage at rest. Lastly, I checked the valve rocker clearance. They were too tight so I adjusted them using the feeler gauge. Sewed it all back up and started it. Runs much better and the PTO engages nicely. Hopefully it will stay that way... Thanks for the tips!
Hey mbakken, what if you shined a torch down the spark plug hole turned the motor over and the piston doesn’t move? Have I got a broken con rod? One piston moves, one does not......
Hope you will take the oil pump cover off and install a small part, oil pump shaft, before you go into the rest of this rebuild. Good video and thanks a bunch.
great video one point missed when putting on the sump cover must pay close attention to the crank seal when going over the step on crank the id will roll out and take the inner spring out of the seal that seal must be tucked in when installed leak in the near future for sure
side info: valves stay within temp range by the heat transfer that occurs to the head via the valve seat when the valve is closed, it require sufficient closed time, that's another reason why proper valve clearance is important.
I absolutely loved this video! I really want to get some practice working on engines and I was thinking of getting one of these to rebuild. Eventually, I want to see if I can build a go-kart and might try and use this engine when I rebuild it in the go-kart build. do you think that this engine would be good for a go-kart? If not would you have any recommendations on engines? I was looking on Facebook market and I found a "lawn tractor" with one of these engines in it. I love engines and I can't wait to get my hands on one! thank you so much for this video I love watching people build engines, and building anything to be honest! So thank you!
When relapping the valves, if you have a drill adapter with a 1/4" square drive attachment. Pull the suction cup off the stick, put it on the adapter and use the drill too lap it. The fire starter method is proven to work, and proven to be a son of a gun as well. 30 secs or so with the drill is easy as can be
Just be cautious when lapping with a drill because it can be too aggressive with course lapping compound! I ended up having to reface my valves and cut new seats because I accidentally cut small circular grooves in the seat and valve by lapping too much with a drill when trying to fix a small leak. I feel a lot better now having new three-angle seats anyway.
@@thomaswood647 certainly in the fact of working on order Automobiles and stuff definitely run a big risk worst case scenario on small engine no it's not that expensive of a lesson to learn. But it's rare to find coarse and fine compound anymore I just recently found a pack somewhere. Now everything is course in the beginning and then gets finer which is stupid because when you go to do it again you're starting all over every single time I've literally found myself grinding the compound in the mortar and pestle from the kitchen so I can do a final pass on it LOL
The part about the crankcase gasket is 100% correct in all scenarios except the 23hp Briggs. The 23hp requires the red fiber gasket Briggs & Stratton part# 846487. If you don't use that gasket it'll leak and you won't create enough vacuum to drive the fuel pump properly.
Your video is great. Thank you! Do you have a video about governor assambly adjustment and throttle adjustment. I have Husqvarna YTH 22v46 (twin Briggs). I tried to adjust governor but when I try to started engine would go in to overspeed. Most likely there is something wrong with governor assembly device. Looking forward to hear from you. Thank you in advance!
Hey brah! Good vid. I have rebuilt many v twins some w newer blocks some w new sump n pan. Briggs refers to" to flywheel" not out.. pto or flywheel side
If you don't have piston ring clamp you can get away with large hose clamps just adjust them so the rings are compressed enough to slide in the cylinder and the clamp will still slide off the end of the piston.
I'm just watching this video in 2020 because I'm about to rebuild my first v twin Briggs and I just wanted to say everything was helpful except for 1 piece of information. There's another RU-vid channel I watch by a man named Taryl and he said and I can also confirm that you can absolutely run all steel push rods and no aluminum rods without harming anything in the engine and again I know this to be a fact because I've done it.
it's a good Idea o align your inake manifold to the cylinders before you torque them down. the slight play in each cylinder head can cause intake leaks if not aligned. Great video. I'mTrying to brush up on Briggs Engines. I want to run a Vertical Crank Briggs V-twin engine horizontally, want to avoi oil feed problems,Thanks, enjoyed video.
Isn’t that what the alignment dowels are for. If you was missing those I could see putting the intake on. I don’t think that’s gonna align the heads any better. Plus there’s intake gaskets that should seal it if it’s off a couple thousands.
Thanks for the video. I'm rebuilding an 18.5 right now . Ready for re assembly. I need a new piston and connecting rod #1 and gaskets . If you have a good parts source please let me know. Thanks again for your time
Hey this is very good video because everything about your engine is the same as the Briggs engine I have for my craftsman riding mower. Just curious how come you did not continue the series up to the point of first start up after rebuilding it. Very good video.
Thanks for tips and tricks from Hungary! I have a Stiga Park Royal, it has assembled with Intek v2 twin engine and it can't start because someone demagged on the timing shaft. At the start too high the pressure in the cilinders, the starter cant rotate the crankshaft. Maybe i have to change the camshaft.
try adjusting the valves correctly. There is no separate compression release mechanism on this engine.It relys on a very small 'bump' on the intake cams.If your valve clearance is over 5 thou ,it won't work.
Hi, thank you for the video. I’ve been a DIYer since I bought my 1979 Z-28 over 40 years ago (still have it). This would be a something I would attempt if it wasn’t mowing season. My mower is a Craftsman PGT9000. Date code on the engine is 2010. It has just under 400 hrs. Model number is 49M77, Type 0791 C1, 28 HP, 810cc I started the mower on Sunday and immediately heard a loud noise from the right cylinder. My guess is a broken connecting rod. I cannot find a 28 HP replacement online after 2 days of searching. The B&S website is no help. You mentioned in the video that engines are available in the $800/900 price range. Can you point to a website or source for available engines? I understand the video is a few years old. Would you know if all the 25-28 HP V-twins have the same mounting bolt patterns? Is there a way to find out the output (crank) shaft length and diameter without disassembly? Sorry for so many questions.
I do know that the valve guides are bad about riding up and causing the push rods to bend. It happened to mine. You can fix this by removing the head. Then remove the valve. Then push the guide down low enough so you can take a chisel and make an X on the hole where the guide goes. Then push the valve guide back up and it should be tight then. That was my fix.
Ring compressor is still easier and safer than trying to walk the ring and risk gouging the ring surface with a screwdriver. Just a couple taps to get it into the bore. Not trying to be nit picky, I know your method works, but takes more time and risks more potential damage, Not looking to get flamed on the comment like you mentioned, but for those that may not be as gentle with the screwdriver method, it may save some heartache so they dont't scuff the rings and have premature failure.. ;) Nice video nonetheless, :)
Excellent video! However, I would like to point out that on all Vanguard V-Twin OHV models except 540000 and 610000 models, the EXHAUST valve push rods ARE ALUMINUM. On models 540000 and 610000, all push rods are aluminum.
The thing is, when you have the hole thing broken down for rebuild, is there anything that can be done to give the engine more performance for light racing?
This was a HUGE help Sir,,, thanks for taking the time to do this video. I want to resurface (take a bit off) of both of my heads. Where do I take the measurement with my calipers Before I hand sand the heads? and how much should I take off for a bit more compression?
Is the head mating surface not square/true? I'm betting it's more a problem with your valve seats than with the head seal. Simply sanding the head probably won't improve compression. With new head gaskets, it's more likely its either improperly seated valves or piston ring blow by that's causing low compression.
My experience and research tells me Steel push rod for inlet and aluminium for exhaust. My logic is aluminium draws heat from exhaust valve in order to dissipate that heat quicker. Maybe wrong but thanks heaps for helpful videos
I missed the internal part of oil pump install, and governor position before you bolted sump on. Those are details i would like to see in video. You are very thorough.
The aluminium rod shouldn't go to the exhaust side and steel one to the inlet ? just because i though the exhaust would be hotter and thus use the aluminium .
If i had a customer come in id fix it no matter the issue and if i had to rebuild it i wouldnt charge a ridiculous price id only charge the cost of the only parts it actually needed and a good fair price thats cheap enough for the customer but still enough to make money and good quality work
Do you by chance have a video explaining the governor and what symptoms a broke one would do? I believe mine is damaged. It wont adjust and will only go full throttle.
It's possible, but usually not worth it unless you happen to have all the parts around. Youll need to modify the oil pump/pickup inside the crankcase, and source or fab intake pieces to rotate your carb 90deg. You would also need a new crankcase that has mounting holes on the bottom unless you want to make some beefy 90deg bracket that utilizes the mounting holes on the vertical sump cover.
Hello. I just rebuilt a Kawasaki FH680D with the help of your videos. The motor started after the build and runs smooth. However it will only idle down if I apply choke. I’m sure I’m missing something simple. The throttle rod and governor are working as they should. With the throttle bottomed out the idle it still way high. Please help
If it needs choke to idle down it means it's running lean. If you don't have the air filter assembly on, try installing that and running again. Otherwise, look for an air leak. Try spraying carb cleaner around the carb boots and gaskets while it's running.
I want to fully overhaul my vanguard briggs & stratton 18 hp on Lucas Mill, please need help on what bearings or parts needed so I can place an order on dealers here in PNG... Thanks!!!!
Great video man. One question, when sliding the oil sump pan back on does the governor arm need to be up toward the base of the pan or forward toward the crank ?