Clean and oil the Damn thing every time it is fired.And even if it sits in your closet clean and oil it at least once a year.It is not that difficult just take care of it.
Clean mine, im in a cold climate and take my ar15 out shooting occasionally. But the free floated handguard i have is a pain to take on an off so the surface of my barrel gets a little rust once an a while.
My wife took our Mossberg 500 18" barrel to Alaska loaded with slugs this past September for bear protection while I was hunting moose. It rained on us for days and I treated our firearms with Renaissance wax but in the end there was dark orange rust I was unable to remove with an oiled patch. A patch with Hoppes solvent and 0000 steel wool with Hoppes has the shotgun looking like new. Thank you so much for this video!
Glad I came across this, I noticed surface rust on my guns and shotgun shells on the brass today. The only thing I can contribute it to, is humidity. I keep it in my gun safe, but not a very good gun safe, more like a glorified taller metal filing cabinet:) All I could afford a while back:) Anyway, I do keep Silica Gel Packets Desiccant Dehumidifiers packs scattered around inside the gun safe. I used 0000 fine steel wool, then wiped everything down with some Remington gun oil. Guess there's no stopping it.
I've heard men from Long Island who have vowels that end their last names swear up and down that olive oil is all you need for firearm lubrication and cleaning.
I have used Flitz and can attest to it's ability to remove rust. It also will shine up a blued surface beautifully. Do not, however, use it on any anodized surface.
MrZacfisher, Birchwood Casey’s Barricade is an excellent all-weather rust preventative. The part number is 167-016-800 and is available at bit.ly/1msx3r2. Thanks for writing!
I had some light rust on the imprint of my firearm where the manufacture stamps their name. I had to use the 0000 steel wool cloth and hoppe's gun cleaner to remove it. Shout out to the man in this video for the assistance.
Sorry but steel wool will get the rust off only to have it some back worse a couple months later. The steel gets into micro pores and fists quicker then gun steel. Been there, done that. Solution: artificial steel wool scotch bright pads from hardware store
If you have bad rust and want to give it a shot use a real copper penny and gun oil. Lightly swipe the face of the penny back an forth with the grain of the metal an watch it come off. Go easy and slow and you will should like your results. Iv done this on a few like this and one old PPK was rusted so bad the action was locked up. The blueing on that 1929 PPK was amazing, it held up under the rust only loosing its sheen towards the tip of the slide. Its pretty amazing
Thanks a lot I stored my mossberg for acouple months in a plastic gun case took it out and saw that light rust I saw in this video I will try to remove it on my day off :)
Great Information and I forgot about using Flitz.Had my Stainless Ruger in a Uncle Mikes gun holster and had not taken it out for a while.When I removed it from the Holster light Rust only on the Barrel where the Holster contacted it.I believe the Holster absorbed all the Oil from the porosity of the Stainless barrel where it made contact.The rest of the gun looks brand new.Got a lot off just with Oil on a Paper Towel.So I will use the Flitz first and if not will use the Steel Wool with Oil on it.After its off will apply Corrosion X Gun Oil and let it stay on it for a week before wiping it off.Had been using Breakfree CRP but I think Corrosion X is a better Oil now after watching a lot of Videos comparing the Top Oils and Corrosion X always did awesome on stopping Rust.Wont be putting my Ruger back in the Holster unless I carry it in the Woods Hunting.Thanks a Lot really good Video!!
Agreed. I have an 870 from 1980 that I used in the field all the time, took it him wipe it down, did a basic cleaning job then lite oil. No issues with that gun. Now I have a few 870s from post 2005 or so and they all start rusting at least a little if the whole gun isn't field stripped after every use.
I just bought a police trade in M&P 40 that has some minor corrosion on the slide and all three mags. Used Hoppes solvent and oil with 0000 steel wool and gun now looks good as new. Thanks Brownells!
Left my guns in hard cases for only a week and they all got pitted rust on the barrels.... 4000 dollars down the fucking drain. No one said cases are bad and I dont have a safe or money to get a safe at the moment. Basically domt buy guns if u cant get a safe. Or just wait till ur 30 or 40 and dont get 5 guns when your 19 because apparently I'm a dumbass
I have finally been able to get my first .22 back from my brother and it has got some fairly serious pits on the surface of the barrel, not enough to compromise it but such that it would be visible if blued and it is not really worth having it professionally done just sentimental. Can you take something like JB weld metal compound and use this to fill the small pit so when I paint it or finish it it will look somewhat smooth? Thanks
I have a benneli supernova tactical barrel that insists on flash rusting. I found the wife's old school yellow and green sponge she keeps under the sink has a very light steel wool side that removes the rust quickly and easily with some no.9 oil without scratching the barrel at all. (Use a new sponge obviously.)
Heard old timer say 0000 steel wool and motor oil like fie car. Have to keep the steel wool oiled really good, using light strokes and it won't damage the finish. Wipe dry, reblue if need.
During the off season I keep my guns in rust proof treated bags. The company I use is Zerust. This technology is used in the machine tool trade to keep machine tools like milling machine heads from rusting when sitting on the shelf. Does anyone else use this method?
Will Vinegar aid in minimizing oxidation for Guns? I use it on rusted Amplifier chasis that oxidized. Works great 4-000 steel wool with Vinegar. Buff, dry and lightly oil. Thoughts? Maybe a light polishing cloth and vinegar on the gun? Dry & Oil ?
always check on your guns frequently - and oil them - I went awhile without checking them in the safe and several developed some pitting including my first deer rifle I had for years. I was heartbroken. I cleaned the guns up with hopes 9 but the pit marks remain.
Try Clenzoil I have found it breaks down light rust.And for christ sake keep it oiled up with something better than Remoil!A gun sock is a good protector as well as a dissacant pack (Preferably a large one) in your gun safe is a good idea.
so dont worry about rust quite so much, do you best to keep it at bay but its going to happen pretty much? and keep it well oiled? ive been oiling mine like crazy, i live in louisiana and worry about the humidity
I have a kimber campguard in 10mm and when I saw the small bits of rust on the right side of the frame and in the mag well I about pooped my shorts considering the fact that it’s a $1400 gun😂
I just use 0000 steel wool dry, it works fine, doesn’t mess with the finish that I can see, just be gentle, eats rust. Not for pitting, but everything else is fine. Even pitting cleans up, but obviously it is still pitted.
Tyler Rager just a thought here...but maybe take a toothbrush and wrap the 0000 steel wool around it and secure it with a rubber band? Thats what came to mind
I realize this is years later but, if you don't mind, a question. Would 4/0 bronze wool work? Reason. Steel wool fragments caught in the metal pores and tiny machinings will rust again. Bronze wool won't rust or corrode readily. Thanks for your help!
What grease or oil is best for protecting the bore of a rifle or shotgun for long term storage? Cosmoline, perhaps? And how to apply it uniformly and thick enough? (I will clean it out before firing again.)
Do NOT use Flitz on Blued surfaces!, It WILL polish right through the bluing, Bluing is nothing more than a controlled rust, I ruined the finish on a 1957 4 digit Colt Python doing what he said with Flitz, You Don't want to use ANY polish!
Thanks your video, it was very helpful in taking light rust that just as described did not disappear with an oil rubbing. I live in South Florida and sweat profusely. Knowing this I will wipe my EDC regularly, but sometimes you... well you know. I used the Flitz product I already had but only used on bare stainless steel. Light, gentle rubbing achieved great results. I wish I had taken pictures. Again, thank you.
I just bought a brand new Remington wingmaster and I was taking it apart to do an initial cleaning and oiling and I noticed there is light rust where the magazine tube connects into the receiver. After researching I hear this is an ongoing problem with Remington as their quality is declining, does anybody know if I can take the magazine tube out of the receiver to clean the rust off? If not how do I fix this? Any ideas would be great, thanks
Dalroy, we suggest reaching out to our Gun Tech team to discuss your issue. This will allow them to assist you to the fullest extent! They can be reached by calling 800-7410-0015! Thank you so much!
John Doe Yeah I don't let it sit too long, just a short little while in the barrel then get them patches pulled though. Being a solvent, as you say it will damage the metal, gotta be careful.
Nothing beats the shiny side of baking foil ( the thin type used to wrap a Turkey ). Cut a small piece fold it & rub the rust gently with a top brand drop of coke, then rub with a soft cloth & a little gun oil for protection . I've used it on my guns for over 40 years & there still mint condition. May seem crazy but it works & sure beets using the finest wire wool to rid rust.
The thought of taking anything abrasive to my pre 64 winchester model 70 is terrifying. There's only a couple extremely tiny spots of very light surface rust near the scope mounts. So small and light i think I'll just let my rifle be. Far too valuable to risk any damage whatsoever
Recoil Junkie1981 soak it in clp so to speak and rub lightly a lot. You cant be afraid to moderately work on any of your guns if you intend to use them man.
If you allow rust to take hold your Pre 64 will become post-functional quickly. folow the steps outlined in the video and you will keep that baby looking and running great for a lifetime and then some.
what about in the barrel? I just bought a s and w shield and it has rust in the barrel but don't want to go trough the hassle of sending it back. I think I can just shoot it out. it is just light surface rust.
We would suggest cleaning the bore first with Hoppes as sometimes what appears to be rust is actually a rust preventative that has dried. If the pistol is new and does have actual rust in the barrel, contact S&W for a replacement barrel.
DO NOT try to "shoot it out".Use a good cleaner like Clenzoil and a phosphor bronze brush.After running patches through soaked with that cleaner you do not see anymore rust wipe it dry with a patch and apply a GOOD oil such as SAFARILAND BREAKFREE COLLECTORS OIL.I have found that oil if properly applied is the best long term storage protection you can use!
