I'm a NRA Certified Pistol Instructor and former NACFI Instructor and this video is one of the finest, no-nonsense presentations on gun care I have seen in a long time. Most RU-vid video jockeys will have you over lubricating your firearm and this gentlemen puts that silliness to rest quickly. I always worry that I have put "too" much lubrication on my 1911's (the rails and slide) and usually end up going through a dis-assembly prior to a range session. I use a standard white men's handkerchief and am always surprised by how MUCH lubrication I have left in the gun. As the man says, a light "sheen" is all you need. Great video! A must watch for any new gun owner or even old farts like me. Thank you for your service Sir.
Peter Pherfinion Thank You For Your Information. I let several of my handguns set for over a year and had a sticky residue. I used Break Free CLP which I used in the Military. I cleaned all my weapons. So many oils out there. I used a synthetic lube called Liquid Bearing. I learned Previously I “over lubed’ my weapons which protected them for long term storage (I thought) but I learned I was wrong. The gun is dry from the factory. Only lube needed is just a light drop at friction points!
I have found that sometimes in freezing weather, the use of traditional gun oils on the slide and rails of the 1911 can have a tendency to get thick and slow down the slide. Years ago, Hoppes had a dry white teflon powder lubricant (not the spray) that I started using in that area. It was great. Sadly, Hoppes no longer makes it, but you can find it on-line from model railroad dealers.
As another "old fart", now 82, I have to make an unpopular comment here. In 1969 I joined a major (but not identified here) police department, and won the marksmanship trophy in the Academy, (after an intense tie- shoot-off) which then caused me to be INVITED to join the Department Pistol Team, as a rookie cop. Fantastic, unexpected, huge honor! But on this 10-man team, I was #10 because I qualified last. When I went to my first (department-paid) practice day, I discovered that I might NEVER, EVER be #9. They were that good. It was a hot day, and I saw the guys (no females I know of ever on the team) shooting away on the initial NRA three-gun stage, 22 rimfire, using semi-autos. I watched them dousing their slides with oil, and inquired how much to lube MY gun, a department-issued S&W. Response: "Until it drips off"! Oooo-Kay...IF you say so. It was because the oil is expected to disappear after a full day in the hot sun, banging away through two full courses of fire. And so it went for 3 years, when I suddenly was also invited to join an entirely new section just started by the city, called the Aviation Operations Section, and I was about to be trained as a helicopter pilot by recently-serving (in Viet Nam) US Army Warrant Officer Instructor-Pilots. My new Commanding Officer first told me to STOP the shooting! The flight training schedule (copied from the US Army) was very intense, and I was needed to fully participate, EVERY work day. So, I quit the Pistol Team, and never "practiced" again for 25 years, at the top of the Department, but NOT the team. But I still retired (from Aviation) with a box of 9 trophies, 8 first-place Individual, and one Second-place Team trophy) in the three standard shooting stages, and I was happy as a clam. And my guns stayed wet. Nowadays I shoot in a cool basement. Saves money on oil. Never had a stoppage in any caliber. Except for my issued Glock 22 at retirement, where I had the FIRST Department Glock to fail.
I grew up with the attitude that if a little was good, a lot was better. I learned over and over again throughout my life that I was wrong, but just like the guy finding out after putting change in his left packet with an unknown hole for thirty years continues to put the change in that same pocket, because, well, that's how he's always done it, that was me. At 66, I've finally come to understand and completely agree with your video. Thanks. Good job sir. Kudos to you.
I've been overhauling clock movements for many years and have found the same info you stated. If you can see the oil, you put too much on. In clocks, the lube only helps break in the wearing parts. After that they run without lube for 20 years. If it was lubed, then it needs repairs every 4 years.
Thanks for your insight. As a locksmith I can assure you many people think more oil is better... or even trying to combine graphite with WD40 making sludge to an even worse effect
Yup. The lube basically allows the parts to seat properly and then the oil molecules act like ball bearings between the metal. That's how car engines can last billions of revolutions.
This is the best video on oiling a gun on youtube. Thanks for taking the time and effort to fully explain why . I thank you, and my brand new CZ 75 thanks you as well.
Very well done sir! Years ago my father taught me similarly, and even cited examples of rust occurring under the glopped on grease and sticky coating ( I forget exactly what it's called) not only on guns, but other equipment in his military years. With all this "you gotta run the AR wet" talk out there, it's good to hear a voice of sanity and reason.
@@alanmeyers3957 I agree with our host who was a qualified military armorer and has many years experience with all types of auto and semi-auto weaponry. Spot oiling friction points is fine. We've proven it. I guess if I was stuck in a salt water spray environment and had to go days between maintenance, I *may* consider running my ARs wet, but doing it otherwise is just a waste of lube and attracts more dirt.
Gunblue490 I agree with You completely. I am a USMC Veteran, and since My time in Service have worked many Years as an Industrial Mechanical Maintenance Millwright and a Lubrication Specialist. You gave good sound advice.
I just bought my first pistol, a Walther PPQ, and am glad I watched this video. Everything you said makes a lot of sense. I've been a mechanic for years, and I know how oil, moving parts, atmosphere, and debris can interact, but I never took it into account for my pistol. I live pretty high in the Rockies (over 9k ft), and will definitely take this all into account! Thank you sir.
Sorry but i don't really get the point. If you want to use the lubricant for protection from corrosion and you Just use a couple drops how can you protect the surfaces you can't reach by hand? For example of you wanna protect a winchester 94, how can you get access to the surfaces between the barrel and the tubular magazine? Wiping with a cloth every single surfaces would take hours..
It's been said that you learn something new every day. I sure did after watching this video. The past 25+ years I've been over oiling all of my guns. I was one of those guys that thought "if one or two drops is what's needed then three or four will be better". It almost pains me to admit it because I'm a career machinist/toolmaker and should've known better years ago. I have, however, been doing something right, and that's the silicon rag. It's been a constant fixture of my gun cleaning kit(s) since around 1989 or so. Thank you, sir, for the quality video. I'm subscribing to your channel right now. Above all though, thank you for your service to our country.
Thanks for this! It's great to hear some good, solid, practical advice for a change, as opposed to what we see from everyone merely concerned with selling us the latest and greatest space-age miracle lube.
This reminds me of my BMX days. I would oil a new chain once lightly and wipe it off with a t shirt then clean and re oil about every 500 miles. guys that were obsessed with oiling every day or sometimes every 5 minutes had the most chain/sprocket issues mostly from collecting dirt
Thanks for the sound advice. It made me realize I might be leaving my guns a little too wet. I mainly use Hoppe's stuff & G96. I think I'll get my guns & give them a wipe down with a clean rag. I subbed. God bless you, Long Live the Republic.
Loved the video! Especially liked the "needle-point-application". Been carrying needles in the field forever and never thought of using the point to reduce the amount of oil applied to a tight spot. One too-big drop of oil in the wrong place can cost you some valuable time to correct the error. And the cold climate advice was not lost on this klutz. Good job, Captain!
I forgot to ask in my question below. Do you like the "Bore-Snake"; it seems to be a "Love it or Hate it" type of product. My two questions surround my .308 Weatherby Rifle Stainless Barrel.
No need to hate or love it. It will clean a bore of a limited amount of fouling for field cleaning. It will not replace regular cleaning. It's far better than nothing.
I recently subscribed to your channel because of your no nonsense approach to firearms,I learned most of what I know about shooting from folks like you,this particular show caught my attention,thank you so much for for such a high quality show!!
This content will surly survive the ages because it is the absolute truth. In his book: The M1911 COMPLETE OWNER’S GUIDE by Walt Kuleck, he states, “Its lubrication needs, are surprisingly minimal.” Thank you for your military service and a very educational video.
Thank you, Marcelino. I practice what I preach, as I never oil any of my guns, most particularly the ones I compete with, other than perhaps a wipe-down of blued guns to protect the finish during storage. My SR1911, and all my other handguns and rifles, shoot dry as a bone, as they have for thousands of rounds.
Other than the attraction of dust or dirt oil will not do anything to destroy a firearm. You can pour oil over the entire gun and fire it all day with no harm. It's the contaminants that cause the wear.
He had it right. Back in the day, everyone understood that oil ruined stocks, froze bolts in the cold, contaminated chambers, obstructed bores, and collected debris. The problem now is that many folks aren't getting their advice from their inheritance down through the family, so they're getting it on line from guys that often have no clue.
Anyone who can emphatically use the word 'bunk' in a sentence is trustworthy in my book! I've always learned something new (and that makes sense) in all your videos. Thank you.
I'm an old Marine and I really identify with your advice. The drier you keep the weapon, the better off. Do you remember that hideous "lubriplate" that was given the Marine Corps and Army in the 50's ? What a joke; it resulted in more jams that anything else I know. Great advice; thanks.
When I was deployed I had almost stopped oiling my m249 saw and I stopped having malfunctions. Our armors wanted use to literly squirt oil in our machine guns and we kept a bottle handy. Our .50 would always jam every couple shots because we had always just drenched it and I assume it attracted the dust sand. This makes a lot of sense. We're not cutting or drilling so we should not be drenching our contact surfaces.
Another great video. I live in the west and shoot either in the high desert or the Sierras; an overall elevation range of 2000-9000 feet. Both these environments seem to fit into you category of situations where lubrication can do more harm than good. Two factors I never took into consideration regarding to lubrication were the detrimental effects of temperature and sand; certainly not the potential for lubrication to freeze. You’re videos are extraordinarily educational and the presentation is equally remarkable. It reminds me of the days of my youth as a student in high school, AIT, and college; like being back in the classroom with one of my favorite teachers.
I just think keeing your gun clean is essential, I do oil my rails just a bit but you have to clean your tools and if they been in storage take them out a clean them , oil can protect but it can break down. Good video Sir🙏
I thank u sir! I was just talking to a friend of mine about the same thing about what u said not to much oil!! and I thank u also for your military service
Boot camp wow this brings back memories we had a guy leave his cleaning rod in his barrel. Lucky for him the next day the round would not fully feed so the drill sergeant peeked at it and seen the rod in the barrel. Lucky sucker could have blown his m-16
I just purchased my first rifle ever. Its a savage 99 .308. You are dropping a lot of knowledge I was shocked to see all the videos you have up you're the man. Did I miss it what was nylon brush for? There is pretty orange rust starting the corners of the inside of the action of the 99 how should I tackle this??I'm from MI and I'm going to use this for whitetail I definitely don't want to over oil it like you say . Hope u see this thanks!
I agree and disagree to a extent.. for anything other than a semi automatic rifle I agree a small light film works wonders.. however for when I was in the marines I cant tell you how many dry rifles would malfunction and then the the RSO would come by with a spray bottle of clp and rack it a few times get it wet and it would run... on the other hand I saw many M2's in Afghanistan fail because guys would lube them up and on convoys get dust all over the gun and cause malfunctions... the trick to that was to cover the moving parts with lsa then cover the gun with trash bags and duck tape and remove when you knew you were in the area where small arms fire would be probable .. so I personally keep a wet bolt on my personal ar with 10w-30 motor oil and close the dust cover ... after I shoot I wipe the dirty oil off give the chamber area a once over then re apply oil and store
You are the only gun channel I watch now. I’m 41 I’ve been hunting for 30 years. I’ve killed many deer and everything else. Your just down to earth very gun smart person. Thank you.
i am going to clean my guns again and make sure they are not oily. I just cleaned my new Kel-Tec Sub 2000 and sparingly put some oil on the bolt, but I'm going to make sure it's dry, and clean it every use. Hickok45 doesn't even recommend using oil as GunBlue490 said, so my Glock is dry but clean.
Great advise. I don't understand all these guys out there talking about all these fancy oils and greases. Some of them even have multiple steps to apply them. I'm a 30 year retired state investigator and now am a part time licensed PI and own two handguns, Walther PPK (.380) and Ruger LC9. After every range visit I use a decent gun cleaner, like Hoppes or Hoppes Elite,and then a few drops of Rem Oil on a cloth and wipe em down. Not a big project. I usually carry the PPK and, God-forbid, if I ever had to use it I'm sure it will get the job done.
thank you for your advice, I will use gun oil very lightly like you said, I trust your advice more than everyone else trying to market there so called best lubricant, thank you again :)
Thank you! I think most over-lubrication comes from the childlike desire to handle and manipulate the gun, to play with it, take it apart and put it back together again, shine it up and look at it and buy products for it that you then have to use. Kind of what we do with our kids!
Great video, there is one environment I wonder if you could address - hot, humid, coastal areas. I've seen the salt air of coastal environments wreak havoc on metal items, even inside houses. While it seems the normal wiping down of the firearm as you describe in the video would take care of outside, I wonder about the interior which of course will have that salt air seeping in. I also hear a lot about gun oil evaporating over time, sometimes a very short time, which seems like it could expose the gun to corrosion, esp in a hot, humid, salt air environment. Thanks, I'll be checking out more of your vids!
Gene, Thank you for asking. I'll give you the bad news first, and then the worse news. My cautionary concerning over-lubrication is not intended to be a dismissal of protective oiling for interior, as well as exterior surfaces. Having said that, you are entirely correct about the destructive effects of coastal salt-air on firearms. The unfortunate truth is that, traditional steel firearms cannot be protected from direct contact with salt water spray, and still be functional, especially in cold conditions. I grew up on the New England coast. In my more adventurous youth, I was an avid coastal duck hunter, and I can tell you from personal experience how exasperating it was to have a beautiful shotgun suffer pitting and ruination before I could even get home at the end of the day, despite my most strenuous efforts to preserve it. In that day, prior to the relatively new era of phosphated treatments for non-military guns, stainless steel, and plastic coatings, one simply understood this and reserved a tired and pitted "beater" for taking along with a Lab and bag of decoys to the marsh. At the end of the day, you took a hose to dog, decoys, boots, and gun, and did what you could to somehow minimize the utter destruction that literally took place before your eyes. The only thing that came out better looking at the end of the day was the dog. Everything else aged twenty years in eight hours of marsh exposure. Of course, while the effects of living in coastal salt-air environments do not necessarily involve direct salt water contact, such as I described, any coastal resident understands that there is an unseen and very real saltiness to the air itself that accelerates corrosion to all metal surfaces. There are several approaches to this problem, which are limited, at best... Preferably, the metal itself should be rust resistant to the best degree possible. Even the best stainless steel alloys are not rust proof. Gun alloys must retain sufficient ferrous steel for strength and for machining, and are not -- contrary to many beliefs -- rust proof. However, they can take a very serious exposure to salt water and come out looking good, so long as they are frequently cleaned, and, ALWAYS, immediately after direct contact. Phosphated gun steel finishes, while not particularly attractive, (Parkerizing, black phosphates, etc.) can be extremely effective, and in its various forms, have been the military spec alternative for decades. Plasticized coatings are perhaps the most durable finishes, which have been tested under extreme salt cabinet tests to be the most capable of resisting salt corrosion, and they can be applied to un-coated firearms by responsible contractors (for a price). The operative verb is to RESIST. In salt cabinet tests, one material outlasts another over a measured, timed, exposure, but they all eventually succumb. If there's anything more destructive to metal than salt water, it's the concentrated salt of marsh mud. One shake of that stuff on your gun by Rex or Roxy, and your gun will look like it encountered crystal Drain-o before you can get home. I don't want to sound like a pessimist, but the best thing for a gun is to keep it away from the wonderful smell of the coast, which is the angel of death to steel. Anything after that is an uphill battle, which involves isolation from salt air (a gun safe equipped with a golden rod de-humidifier), regular inspection and cleaning, and a wipe-down of all metal, inside and out, with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Don't oil any more than a microscopic film, as you normally would under other conditions, as oil only protects at the contact with metal, and anything more than that runs into wood and destroys it, or drools off uselessly. Always use protective GUN oil, and never so-called penetrating oils, that have extremely thin, volatile carriers designed to work into rusted threads, but have no staying power. Protective grease such as RIG can be useful for storage in passive salt environments, but must be cleaned off before taking afield. Don't believe that greases will protect from salt exposure. They won't, and will only mix with salt and complicate the flushing process.
GunBlue490 Wow, thanks for the reply! Wasn't expecting so much I must say. So it seems to keep guns protected at the coast, you need some kind of climate controlled gun case. Of course not everyone could afford one but maybe a couple larger sized bags of desiccants thrown in with the case may help keep moisture at bay on the cheap. But what happens to the oil, does the thin coat just evaporate and do some oils evaporate slower than others? Thanks again very much
I'll trust the word of an older more experienced gentleman like this over anyone else. You can read on the internet as much as you want, but there is no replacement for real world experience and wisdom.
This is exactly what I was taught in the Marine Corps. Thin, light coat is all you need. Good info, and glad I watched. I'll be breaking in 3 new rifles very soon, and I'll be making sure a thin, light coat is all I have.
Thank you Sir for the sound advice on RU-vid. I live in Canada and love shooting in the winter. Your advice on oiling the gun in a cold climate is invaluable. God bless!
Excellent video for sure. I am guilty of over oiling and storing of my revolver. (high humidity) You have shown me my error and this has saddened me deeply. the gun has been stored for years and not been fired. I once again decided to bring my S&W revolver back to action. No rust but too much oil has become honey. How do I get rid of this junk so I can have my well operating gun back. it has not been fired in this condition nor will it be. You have said that degreasers will clean the gun but which one so I can maintain the beauty of this work of art. Thanks for your shearing of your knowledge.
Thank you. The first thing to do is watch my video "Care and Maintenance of the S&W Revolver", which will guide you through the process of stock (S&W term for grips) removal and how to open the frame to access the interior, and how to safely remove the cylinder. Oil saturated wood stocks may be degreased by alternately soaking them in acetone and scrubbing with a gentle soft nylon brush. Be careful, as it's highly volatile. It's generally unnecessary to do a complete strip-down once it's open and the cylinder is removed. Soak the gun in plain mineral spirits from the hardware store, which will dissolve the thickened oil with the help of some time and perhaps some brushing. After the gun is clean, you may apply a very light mineral oil as I demonstrated in the video. If the stocks are dry in appearance, you may hand rub in a very light amount of boiled linseed oil to restore their luster, using a toothbrush in the checkering.
@@GunBlue490 yes I have watched this video but I am now amazed that it is that simple. Thank you for your expertise and you willingness to share your skills with the unknowing! I thought I have harmed my beautiful collection of rolling guns. Thank you again. Captwaypoint
Glad I viewed this video!! I have been over oiling my Ruger 22/45. I will be cleaning it today to remove the excess lubricant. Too many stove pipes last night ( one is too many). Previous trips to the range the Ruger functioned without any problems. Different ammo (CCI, Remington, Federal) all fire without any problems. This is the last time I will over lubricate any of my firearms. Thanks for this video!!!
+Fred Stafford You're welcome. Be sure to keep the interior of the magazine dry, which is a common cause of stovepipes, as the cartridges are thrust out by the magazine spring, rather than being stripped out by the bolt/slide.
Bought my 1st rifle recently; & was overenthusiastic with oil thinking, "I'm gonna pass this gun to my Grandnephews in mint condition years from now"!! Next time I cleaned it I immediately saw that black paste he's describing! A real wake up call, so here I am. That oil-paste of-death lol, was exactly where I tried to LUBE to prevent wear! So it was obvious the harm that it's doing. Thanks for the information!
I've been shooting guns since i was a 12 and my Pops always told me to use very little oil because like you said Oil attracts dust and particals in the air. I see alot of my friends that has same guns as me, such as my Ruger 10/22 Never had Not 1 jam or fail to feed problem, They always as me why my Guns Never have a problem and i tell them STOP Over Oiling. Shit when they bring there guns out each time they shoot thats all you see fly outa the reciver is Oil LOL ....So yes Mr. Gun Blue you are very correct..thanks
Yeah I think keeping it clean is key. If you bought it and then shot 20 rounds right away, and it jammed up on you, that could have been the packing grease they put into the firearm to protect against the elements when it’s sitting in the stock rooms. So that needs to be cleaned out after purchase. But it could have been jamming up from bad ammo too.
Glad I watched your video before cleaning my H&K for the first time. Some of these cleaning videos show people spraying oil in the internals of the frame like it's going out of style. It didn't seem right. The disadvantages of attracting dust and carbon mixed with the excess oil just makes so much sense. Thanks!
Your advice is very good. When I was a kid (early teen) I failed to wipe off the excess oil from my muzzleloader and went rat hunting in the barn. Had a squib load due to oil soaked powder and the primer cap went off but not the load so I thought it was a total failure to fire and lowered the firearm instead of raising it. But it was not a true "incomplete discharge" only a slow/delayed burning down the tube and then the load exploded and I accidentally shot some pig in the ears and noses. So my experience is that too much oil and not wiping it off can be a hazard, also lack of gun safety and not enough adult supervision. I spent some time that night playing vet, but my dad was still ticked off. Purple spray all over pig's heads was a give away. Also had to use a knife to pry out the bird shot, the pigs squealed a lot. Not fun for any of us.
I believe you are spot on. I see these RU-vid guys using bearing grease on 1911s and AR15s and just cringe. I doubt any of them ever had a bad breath drill sergeant barking at them about over use of oils!
I like learning from ole' farts like you! You been there n' done that. Experience teaches best so if I can learn from yours well hells yeah sounds good to me!
Rick Shaw, he was just joking I read into it as a respectful gesture, its translated throught a younger mind, its l Iike these young men that call me an OG, and I was offended at first a learn from them that its a word of endearment, in life we learn that we can't take things personal...you're cool to me.. thx for the video...
Wow. Brilliant. I just listened to this entire message. I am sitting at soccer practice with the phone on my chest watching my son play. It’s like a audio book. Thank you. P
so in a nutshell, don't oil your guns? I don't get it... I have kept my guns liberally oiled for decades.. they look as good as new. Must work pretty good.
He didn't say "don't oil your guns..." He said "Keep it clean, and lightly oiled with a wipe of a soft oiled cloth" Just a "whiff" of oil-- no visible residue!
SJ there's a difference between outside of a gun and inside a gun/rifle...... on outside I do use 10w40 on a rag sometimes to wipe a gun down after somebody handled it.....never use thick oil like that on a small bore high pressure rifle on the inside..... very bad Karma
Thank you for another very helpful video. I have an Anschutz Model 164 Sporter in .22 lr.. I haven't shot it in some years and took it down to check. I found that the magazine release slide was very hard to press. It feels very viscus and I must have gotten oil in it. What is the best way to clean it out? Also, I have a number of rifles all with wood stocks. Although I don't remove the stocks often, when I do would it be better if I torqued them back to a set limit or is hand tightening OK/
Herb, that's a fine rifle. The most important thing is to protect the stock from any oils or solvents. Simply remove the stock, and then clean the entire gun with Hoppe's #9, using a toothbrush where necessary. If you do have caked on oil residue, it may be somewhat stubborn, and will require some elbow grease and time to allow the solvent to penetrate. There's no particular torque setting required. The action must rest firmly to the rear-most position in the stock, with the recoil lug tightly against the wood bedding block, so that the action does not slam against the wood on the first shot, thereby cracking the stock. The method used at factories is to tighten the front and rear bedding screws moderately with a high grade hollow ground screwdriver that fits the slot snugly to the bottom, and then GENTLY (gently!!), "bump" the muzzle of the barrel into the side of a wooden workbench, or onto a wooden block, which will take up any looseness to the rear. If your barrel is free-floated, align the barrel channel with paper shims, so that it maintains "center". Then, tighten down the front screw firmly by hand, followed by the tang screw. If you have a center action screw, tighten it very lightly, so as not to place stress on the action. I prefer, in fact, to place a drop of blue (medium) Loc-Tite on the center screw, and just run it in until it bottoms, at little more than 0 pounds torque. As to oiling, I don't lubricate any of my firearms, except to apply a protective film to the metal with a few drops wiped in with flannel cloth. Oil and solvents are extremely destructive to wood, and will make it spongy and brittle in short order. Tell-tale splits and checks at the tang are always indicators of oil being used on a firearm. People don't consider that when oil is placed in a gun, it obeys gravity and comes to rest at the lowest point, which is invariably the stock. Lubrication oil is not needed for firearms, and has caused endless damage to wood stocks and service problems with the mechanisms. No gun will ever wear out, no matter how hard it's used. Protective film is the only requirement. When I'm presented with a gun that "doesn't work", it's typically because of a problem associated with oil, and it returns to full function with a good cleaning and degreasing.
I can attest to the fact that too much oil really is too much! When I was a kid, I put a little too much oil on my Model 94 action. The weather turned cold and I had a problem opening that action after a day in the woods. When I got home and it warmed up, the problem became obvious.
GunBlue490 I was lucky because when it warmed up I could work the action. Then I took it all apart while looking at a breakdown sketch in the owner's manual (no internet help in those days). The firing pin was a little stiff too, so I cleaned the oil off everything with some solvent, probably #9, not sure, and I never used oil in the action again even though some people told me to!
I recently purchased my first 1911 a Rock Island Armory A1-FS. I found your channel and I'm very happy with your no nonsense approach. Thank you for your time and effort bringing this information to all of us.
Enjoyed the video. I'm 63 and I was taught how to clean my rifle and shotgun by my Dad and he used very little oil if any. We lived in Ohio and I would clean my guns when I got back from hunting especially if it had been raining. I would just wipe them down. I still have both of them and they still function as when I got them. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome. Our Dads came from a generation that understood that oil destroys wood very soon, and that the least drop wiped on the steel was all that was needed to protect the gun for generations. They put good oil in their cars, but left the oil can in the garage! A $10.00 desk stapler gets a harder workout than any gun, and I've yet to see an oil can on a secretary's desk.
I been using "3 in 1 oil" for over 60 years! Couple drops is all it takes on moving parts.. a little "3 in 1 oil" on an old clean t-shirt and wipe the complete firearm down... Do it twice a year if needed. Check your firearms twice a year for rust and dust. You're good to go. Keep it simple!
The name game. Sure it works. It's mostly mineral oil. Oil is a natural cleaner, lubricant, and protector. "3 in 1" is a very simple mixture of spindle oil, citronella, and "corrosion inhibitor" (LOL, all oil inhibits corrosion). It was concocted by a bicycle repair man in the 1800s who had the smarts to charge folks for a wee tin can what it cost him for a gallon, and I bet he quit his day job. Spindle oil also works by itself, which has been used to keep things working in fabric mill factories and sewing machines for generations. And, guess what spindle oil is? It's simple low viscosity mineral oil, just like I recommend for guns, that you can buy at the drug store by the quart. All these various name all come down to various viscosities of mineral oil. The citronella (mosquito deterrent) is there to give odorless mineral oil an odor, so that the buyer thinks he has something special. Not that that's a bad thing, but just so you know. It probably helps keep mosquitos away when you're peddling down the lane... Light mineral oil is all any gun, bike, mill, sewing machine, pin or hinge requires. The oil game is as old as snake oil salesmen. Add a bit of simple mineral spirits and you have CLP. According to the FAA, Marvel's Mystery Oil is 25% mineral spirits, 74% mineral oil, and 1% lard (LOL), which amounts to CLP, if you want to make your own of that, too.
I'm an old USAF aircraft mechanic, the "over oiling" issue was talked about in training, it became a paste and wore out engine parts. In some hot places we used graphite spray. Thanks for your videos!
Thank you for your Service! Likewise, my factory training at S&W, Ruger, and Remington were consistent in teaching us to not "lubricate" guns for the reason you mentioned, as well as two other significant issues. Oil migration into the chamber prevents case adhesion and thwarts the required breech sealing that allows destructive hot gasses rearward, coupled with bolt thrust caused by case slippage that will fracture bolt lugs, or multiply breech force on auto pistols. The second problem is contamination and rotting of wood and even some plastics. Our Smith and Wesson instructor informed us that graphite was found to be abrasive to the case hardened parts, so he warned us against dry lubricants too.
Once again, sound advice from an expert. I usually clean my weapons after running 200 rounds through them (no more than 2 range sessions) but upon viewing your video I will now clean after each session. I have a question...what is your opinion of Slipstream Weapon Grease? Is there a valid need for this product? Thank you. I look forward to viewing your other videos.
There's no valid need for any grease, oil, or anything, other than regular cleaning. Clean guns need no lubrication, and they are easier to clean after firing. I would never use any grease, under any circumstances, under any climates, nor in any shooting extremes. I shoot my guns often, and give them EXCEPTIONALLY hard use, and never use any lubes whatsoever. Good guns have hard steel, and they are made to shoot dry. Greases attract abrasives, which are always detrimental, except to the purveyor who makes money off you at the expense of your gun!
GunBlue490 In your opinion, does your advice against using grease also apply to the M1 Garand? All sources including military manuals stress that grease should be used for most parts that they say need lubrication. For example, the operating rod where it slides in the receiver slot and the top of the barrel when the operating rod rubs against it.. Everything I have ever read about the Garand says that the only time you should NOT grease critical parts is when the rifle will be used in freezing temperatures or in hot dusty environments, which makes sense but it also makes sense that it was most important that the rifle functioned in those conditions and wear would take a back seat to functionality in those situations. I can't imagine running the operating rod as mentioned above dry unless I was in those conditions.
Bob Miller The M1 Garand does indeed have special considerations, as does its descendants with similar functioning, namely the M14, it's civilian version the M1A, the M1 US Carbine, and indeed the Mini-14. Before I go further, recall that the Garand was designed for sustained combat conditions, whereby the operating rod -- particularly at the bolt cam and receiver slide -- can get quite a workout under those potentially grueling conditions, where a soldier may fire several bandoliers before he can clean his weapon. In such extreme conditions, these are camming forces that convert linear motion to rotational motion on the bolt, which occurs in a very short stroke of less than 1/2", and places unusual stress on the interacting surfaces. Remember, these particular parts are fully external from the inner workings of the gun, where grease has no chance of getting involved with the chamber, ammo, magazine, or other sensitive places, which is quite dissimilar from most firearms, where all activity is within the guns' internal mechanism. I have a Garand and a Mini-14, and shoot them regularly, and have shot them both dry and greased, and with no differences in either functioning reliability or wear. When I do use grease, it's just a small wipe of standard EP (extreme pressure) grease at receiver slide and cam junctures, but only there. For the number of shots that I can afford to shoot at any given session, it makes no difference. In any case, I wouldn't put any if I were going afield, where unanticipated conditions might even possibly cause a stoppage (no, I don't hunt with either). The military manuals are fully consistent with my caveat of avoiding grease in freezing or dusty environs, but that's a HUGE caveat. There's a hidden message therein: The guns work fine without grease when cold or dust dictates. That means that they work fine without grease in fair weather, too. Consider this... The winter of 1944 in Europe, where countless thousands of Garands (and US Carbines) saw the brunt of the worse possible conditions in WWII, fighting at the Bulge and elsewhere, was the coldest winter in decades. We can presume that the supply sergeants and front line leaders were well aware of the Garand PM caveat to avoid grease, and kept their soldiers away from the grease can that would get their guns jammed and them killed, because we won, which testifies that they kept shooting. ...As they did in the dust of Sicily and Africa, where they were doubtless kept dry of grease. All that can be said about the cold of that European winter can be said in spades about Korea, in near arctic conditions and freezing rain. For me, that says that the guns were over-engineered and can take a lot more abuse than might be implied in the pages of the Preventative Maintenance pubs. A mechanic looks at two colliding parts and puts an arrow "grease here". But obviously, Mr. Garand's intuition about building the finest combat gun the world had ever seen included an understanding about real world combat, and engineered over the heads of traditional thinking, and provided a gun that really didn't need grease, when all was said and done. The next time you're at the range with your Garand, pretend you're in a frozen foxhole with a grease-less gun, shooting endlessly, or lying down behind a tank with dust swirling around you, and your dry gun, in hot Sicily, and don't worry. Your gun will be fine.
GunBlue490 Thank you very much for your detailed response. It all makes sense but I would point one thing out for consideration: In freezing or dry dusty combat conditions, it makes perfect sense to me to run an M1 dry and that's what the military recommended, of course. After all, your life depends on it and you can't afford to have grease freeze up or dust mix with grease as you pointed out. Preventing wear on parts isn't a high priority in that situation. But that doesn't mean that the firearm wouldn't last longer for "normal" shooting if greased. (I don't shoot it in freezing or dusty conditions and cIean my rifle after each shootign session.) In other words, for me and probably most M1 Garand owners, reducing wear is a priority, not freezing or having grease get all loaded with dust and acting like grinding paste. That said, I think I'll skip greasing some of the recommended areas after watching your very good video. I'm going to at least lube all my guns now less in the future. Based on what you say, which makes good sense, I've probaby been over-lubing my firearms a bit.
Bob Miller That's a very appropriate way of looking at it, and I fully concur. But don't think that your gun will deteriorate if you don't grease it. In fact, I'd recommend doing what I do with these same guns when new. I first "marry" the parts together dry, until they become mechanically slick, for say, the first 50 rounds, fired casually. Then I can grease. Greasing beforehand tends to make the break-in process take much longer.
