I love succinct tutorials; who needs 12 minutes of using scissors, explaining what Dyneema is, why you would use a splice etc, because if you know you want to watch the tutorial then you know why you are watching. Brilliant Mozzy.
I love this solve, except for this... I am using 1.75 mm Zing-It line and there is almost no way to thread the loop back through. Zing-It is too small in diameter to get the loop back through. Any solution you have would be appreciated.
Alternatively you can bring the tail through the hold BEFORE bringing the loop through the tail in order to remove the twist added when the loop goes through. But then you have to figure out which direction to put the tail through to begin with.
Great video. I have a question. Can you load up both ends of brummel splice? I ask, as it was noted that the load is held in the taper. My application is a fixed point of a cascading arrangement
Yes, although I would still bury the tail for 3/4 inches. Also, you want to make sure the end taking the greater load (i.e. the primary cascade) is the locked strand, not the tail, otherwise it will pull apart.
I'm currently replacing my dinghy dyneema kicker (vang) and I'm trying to figure out how it was previously spliced together. My problem is that when I splice one end of the line onto one of the blocks I can't splice the other end. The other end is eye spliced onto an eye at the end of a hook that hooks onto the mast. I can't use the trick to form a locking eye splice with only one end of a line as I can't pass the whole hook through the core of the 4mm dyneema line. It seems that the current kicker has some sort of splice that holds it without a stitching.
You can just do a plain bury but normally need stitching to stop it pulling out when not under load. Or another option is to cow hitch / luggage tag on with a larger loop
@@MozzySails I think I'll just have to go with a shackle as I can't luggage tag it as the block on the other end is fixed to another line. No idea how someone managed to do it the way it is before. Thanks!
Firstly, do the blocks need a locked splice? Locked splices are actually weaker than a standard brummel splice. I only lock for two reasons: 1) The splice is likely to be flogged. Or 2) I don't have a lot of tail. I am not really sure 2 is even a valid reason! An alternative to a locked splice, and probably good practice in almost all situation is to put a few stitched in the splice instead. Another option would be to do the lock splices, but leave the eyes large enough that you can cow-hitch them on to the block. This will depend on the block and it's type of fixing point though. Lastly, if teh blocked need to fastened close together, you could use a soft shackle, a continuous dyneema loop (stitched) or even a good lashing.
Good instruction but you should use some rope that is big enough for us to see. If one is not already familiar with the brummel lock they would not be able to understand because your rope is too small for a good video.
