Nice comparison. Digitals shine with IR on. Pvs69s with different lens setup gets you nearly 1x view. But non ir performance is still much better on analogs
The newest version use the same camera (Night Eagle 3) and display (V780) but you need to cut out both the camera sensor and display and glue them in a 3D printed "Image intensifier Tube" putting them closer together. @@PitPwny
@@BB-bq1xd I have a full review coming very soon, but honestly the new nvg 30 are much better. I would personally save for the 500$ nvg 30 but if your really tight on cash I would do nvg10 if you are only going to use it for plinking and hiking
Can't wait to see your full video on your gen 2+. I got really lucky and got a good deal on a gen 3 pvs-14. Analog NV is freaking awesome, but I owe a lot of my interest in NV do to the PVS-69 project.
Have you considered using thermal sensors in the PVS69 housing? Ive been researching ways to overlay thermal input over digital NV input in a single display, but have had very little luck. I feel like this would be the best way to make digital NVGs competitive, or even better, than analog units.
@@extrudedshoots I figure if AGM can put out a thermal monocular for $500 with a true 1x and decent specs, we should be able to put one together slightly cheaper, and there has to be a relatively easy way to overlay two inputs onto one display.
@@BuckF0eJiden maybe. Decent thermal cores right now run for even 1k on the budget side so I’m not to hopeful. It would be pretty neat to see something around 500$ tho I agree
@extrudedshoots why not salvage the core out of one of the AGM Taipans? Already comes with the germanium lense. They have a very decent core from what I've seen out of my 10-256.
@@extrudedshoots like, if you could use the guts of one of the Taipans to overlay a thermal display onto your digital NV setup. Would give you a digital NV thermal hybrid bino setup for like $1500-ish. If you're anywhere near Oklahoma City, I'd be more than happy to let you take a look at my Taipan and see what you think?
I own a NVG10 and the illuminator is highly inconsistent with the on/off indication on the bottom of the screen. In extremely dark environments IR illuminator will automatically turn on while the screen will still show "IR off"
Glad that the NVG 10 does not require IR illumination to work. I'm trying to move away from the larger Nightfox products which require an IR emitter to work. Thank you!
So glad I found your channel! You make great content, and it’s well produced! Don’t give up! Keep holding your craft and you’ll absolutely become one of the big gun tubers. I love how you talk about in review products for the working class Of course we would all love a pair of GEN three L3 Katana NVG’s. But, it’s nice to watch videos comparing products within a reasonable budget. Keep up the good work, bro!
THANK GOD FOR ME CLICKING ON THIS VIDEO!! I have that exact same freaking Photonis “Bushnell XX-2015/P03” Fat Anvis tube in my Mono!! And I knew it was a Photonis tube when I got it from the XX, but I had no idea it was autogated and with the dozens of times I’ve tried googling it and showing it to folks and asking, they no one know it was what you said… wel I’ll be darned !! Thanks my friend!! Did your Monocular come with that Tube in it? Or did you or happen tk get it from a guy earlier last year on eBay ? I got mine there and he had like 3 of em I think. Fantastic tube! I was hard io and that guy helped me out and gave me a bit off, was very kind of him
no problem! im glad you commented and thanks! I bought my tube of some guy on discord who bought it from someone else. I think they said that person got it from a D300 mono. im glad you like yours too! just curious, how much did you get it for and what are you running it in? and if you could tell me who you got it from on ebay i would love that!
Great vid. I won both the NVG10 and the Opsin. Really for the money the NVG10 gives the Opsin a hell of a run for its money. Yes the Opsin wins but its not like gen1 vs gen 3 by any means.
keep up the good work, most people don't want to get into nitty gritty details about stuff, most are just "yeah looks good" and they don't actually have anything other than opinion. well done. liked and subbed, can't wait to see more
That 25mm F1.4 C-mount lens has surprising resolution and image circle for the price. The coatings seem ok too, as it doesn't struggle a lot with lens flare. I noticed that it's really just F2.8 at best though, compared to real F1.3 and F1.2 lenses.
Great video of the comparison of the 3. Also I bought the nvg10 gen2 version..there is a difference between gen 1 and gen 2. Cause mine can change between black and white then short press top right button and goes to green. Plus the screen resolution and image processor got a big upgrade which viewing in complete darkness under cloudy sky's doesn't really need for the IR. Also I have recently upgraded the mount to the wilcox g24 since that's what I run on my ballistic and fast bump helmets. Also got the wide angle lens for it as well, it brings the FOV from 32x24 to a nice wide 72x48. Reason I got the nvg10 was I heard lot of good things/reviews on it and plus rather use nvg10 for messing around and use my gen 3 pvs14 for when I really need it. But to be honest the nvg10 is really good for digital and the price. It's great for people just getting into NV plus couple upgrades..mainly the lens...it's actually very impressive. But this is my opinion on the nvg10 alot of people talk crap cause it's digital, but alot of people can't afford 1500-10k plus on NV I lucked out on my pvs14 gen3 couple yrs back. So for anyone wanting to get into NV the nvg10 gen2 make sure it's the gen2 is definitely a great bang for you dollar.
@extrudedshoots I agree the black and white is easier on the eyes and in my opinion a smig clearer/crisp picture. But the lens upgrade is what made it so much better and way better FOV. I also run a mini 940 flood IR on my helmets which I use when it's extremely overcast. Like I was saying the nvg10 are a great digital NV plus doesn't break the bank.
@mikeb0261 I got it for much of the same reasons. I play airsoft and go to Nighttime events maybe a total of three times a year and just can't afford to drop a grand or more on something that I'll use so infrequently. In the case of using it with airsoft, the NVG10 works great so long as there is even a sliver of moonlight. It can switch between white and green and I use both frequently. I'm told that it gives me away at distance since the ir illuminator is always technically on even when the setting is set to off, but since airsoft is fought almost exclusively in close quarters anyway, that argument doesn't hold a lot of water. I got mine for around $450, and for that price and how clear the picture is, I'm very happy with it.
@@SpencerBurkett The IR has 5 settings. Off, On, 1, 2 , 3. Setting 1, 2, 3 the IR is on, and the On setting is actually when the IR is Off. You can test with your phone camera, as it will pick up the IR as a pinkish light when the IR is on.
So one of my first NV devices was a gen 2+ Gp monocular with c mount ocular lens and a custom very nice aluminum housing but lacked any bayonet or mount to use hands free. The tube in it was obviously repotted but had no marking on it. It was one of those 42mm or 43mm diameter tubes. I believe your gen2 is of similar dimensions. You mind sharing what housing you have for your gen 2+ tube? My IIT IS fairly short in length and will probably fit anything I can get into it as long as it’s the right diameter.
Great video lots of good information and!! When are you going to do a Video on the 3d printed analog ! That build is really interesting. Looks like a project I want to try!!!! Especially for the price!!!!
I think the performance of analog NV is impossible to illustrate in a video. Sure it looks close, but in real life its so much better. I have some cheapo Gen 2+ PVS14s and the performance is amazing. Digital is cool in "low light" or just playing airsoft, but outside I can see for 100-200 yards with my 14s, something that digital simply would never be able to do since the illuminators generally dont reach further than 10-20 feet. If deciding whether you should get analog NVGs, ask why you need NVGs. Will you be hunting? Will yoi be doing milsim west style events? Will you be shooting? Are there events near you which require NVGs? Do you have a lot of property? Or are you just going to be playing around with them in your backyard. If its the last one, definitely do digital NVGs. Remember NVGs for shooting require about 1-2k in money to "use". A ballistic helmet, a good mount, a PEQ/Illuminator/laser. Etc.
@@extrudedshoots Oh I don't mean to come off as having anything negative to say about the video, the video is perfect and does demonstrate the pitfalls of digital vs analog, but I just wanted to point out to all the other viewers that night vision looks way clearer/better in real life, as camera footage sometimes makes it look not as detailed.
The naked eye camera shows enough light to tell cloud structure. Was there enough light to see things on the ground at the time? I wonder if the difference is between seeing a bit and seeing well, or between not seeing at all and seeing well?
From what I've pulled from this. If I want a passive system without the risk of being counter detected, I need to gun for the Analog Image intensifier night vision method. Digital works well but requires IR in 25% or less illumination? Whereas Image Intensifier takes full potential in low light conditions, only needing IR in near or total darkness?
What’s your top pic for a anolog pvs 14 on a relative budget?? Have you seen the pvs 14s thd guys that make the Jerry thermal units are putting out?? Small rugidized nice… relatively inexpensive compared to most
@@johndaviddoesmith4504 the jerry14 is not a bad pick at all. I think my go to rn would be a contract pvs14 used from Reddit. Gen 3 1800-2000 FOM for around 1700-1900$
So what’s your opinion on pvs 69 vs nvg10? I feel like recording a digital screen with a digital camera doesn’t convey the idea as well as the human eye
iff you can, i would go mono PVS69, if you cannot build one, the NVG10 is def more convenient. NVG10 out preforms in image quality, PVS69 is better in framerate.
Very good content, thanks for posting. Seems the gen2+ is definitely the clearest view. Price didn’t seem too bad either. Any information on where to get those?
This was a very nice video... brother, those Gen II are fenomela.. would you do a tutorial and the parts need it to create your own .. also, is your 3D printed housing on a file that we can download, or do you recommend something better.... that would mount to a wilcox. Mount.. or even a rhino mouth Gen I or II. Thanks in advance. 😊
Thank you! If I get enough requests, I would be happy to make a tutorial! This is not my file, I just bought and downloaded it. It is pretty nice for the tube type. You can mount it using the 1/4x20 threads, so you can use either Wilcox or rhino mounts. The PVS69 alpha is another good 3D printed analog mono, but I have not built one yet so I don’t know how good they are in practice. Thanks for the comment!
Where would you recommend sourcing the g2+ intensifier? I havent seen anything in a 10160 or 11769 format that comes within the $1400 range. I got a gen3 once on ebay that i had to return due to an emission, really trying to find a budget analog option.
Hey buddy. I need alittle help... im currently building a pvs 69 monocular for my tracer tactical head harness rig.... im making the counter weights right now. My 69 mono is not yet complete but..... can you tell me the weight of the pvs69 monocular with a cr123 loaded? So I can do my math for the weight. No weight info online. Thanks bro.
Hey dude! There are a lot of different versions of the PVS69 and I’m out of country right now. What version of the PVS69 mono are you making? I can ask around and try and get some info for you!
@@extrudedshootsthe camera recording of the screen does not at all accurately reproduce the display and image quality. less important is green mode boosts the visual contrast. A better representation is sharing recording from the wireless phone camera app for the device
Personally I have used eBay and discord discord, but I have heard that there are some good deals on tacswap. If you want good deals on complete units, it’s hard to beat gafs on reddit
@@GuillotineActual there is not one in mind but I would look into the r/nightvision discord. YT has been picky about links in comments recently so ima play it safe. Email me if u can’t find any info
We are NVG10 night vision device supplier and manufacturer in China , Currently we have latest developed night vision devbice NVG30 , Iif you are interestedi n it , please let me know .
Hello.. i am keen in getting one of the NVGs. I understand there is IR on most budget NVGs i.e. NVG10s. Are the IR visible to human eye? I noticed some are so bad its practically a purple torchlight which defeats the purpose of stealth when hunting for hogs and dears.
i think if you have 300-400 to use, and you cant save another grand soon. just build pvs69s for now, they are the best to have before going analog gen 2 or more. you can practice, learn how to use NVG cause no one talks about that, you cant just throw them on then go hunt a cartel member at 2 am, you actually gotta Get used to them!
@@extrudedshoots yes! so if you ever find a good deal just get the tube and them if you have mx69 you don't need a power supply if im not wrong. still learning lol
@@TruthPrevails24 tubes have the power supply built in so once you get a tube, just switch it out with the Mx69. The mx69 becomes useless once you have a analog tube unless you have another housing
Seeing this, I think the solution is to save up extra money and just get some really nice filmless Gen 3 WP. Fiddling with IR cameras is a fun project, but the performance is one-upped by a simple handheld flashlight.
i disagree. the price difference between these and L3 tubes is so insane they are not even remotely in the same region. there is no question that a good l3 tube will beat everything here, but it costs over 10x as much as these digital units. and still almost 3x as the gen 2+.
just like he said no! lol, 2k for a tube alone. and im not gonna put a 2k tube in a $100 housing... yes. it beats all of them. i can build a full ar and 69s and still work... while you build just NVG. were not navy seals remember that
@@TruthPrevails24 yes, build a full AR and 69's. And then when you're out to goon, you get killed because your NVGs constantly emit a beacon of "I AM HERE"
@@extrudedshoots if the argument is cost then I recommend a Nightcore MH12 pro. Sub $100. It's still required to have an active signal to see, but IR night vision is the same outside of ideal circumstances.
It depends on your use. If you are simply hunting coyotes or pest control, then the ir should be fine. If you are planning for home defense, then nvg is your only choice right now.
Yeah i think people have to chose for themselves if the price is worth it. One thing that I don’t think many people take into consideration is that analog holds its value way better than digital overtime, so resell is much easier and better
Yeah analog I think build quality is probably better… honestly I’ve had a chance to run in the same ten mins my dual pvs69 and then two separate gen2+ pvs 14s and honestly in a lot of ways preferred my pvs 69 that said I’m certain the pvs14s I was looking thru would take a bigger beating
How would you like to do a comparison video on my digital budget night vision monocular? Check my page for an idea of just how it looks so you can see it’s worth your time. They are even cheaper than the $300 digital ones you reviewed and much better In my opinion
I would love too! I have seen that system somewhere else and honestly it had me very curious. Hit me up on my business email in my about and we can work something out.
4:53 nvg10 what is that? It looks like the tiny screen you get from an old family camera recorder from the 80s. It's dark like I have cheap phone that claims it has night vision mode for pics and I tried to take a pic of deer in some guys yard and literally it was just dark . I hate this phone it doesn't even turn on the flash light during pics or does flash .
1:53 I don't understand what IR illuminators are. They say that when looking for laser sights too. I've always wanted night vision but it's like thousands of dollars and I don't understand their tube and housing and all that language. My brain is bad. I think night vision is important. A long time ago it wasn't a really standard and I was wandering around the base pretending to be a spooky cat with an aquired pair but then I saw a bunch of people get hurt but I was the only one who could see. I saved them and nobody could figure out who I was . I always wanted to play with some one more time. Here I'll draw a cat for you. ./l、 (@,.O７ l ~～ヽ じ し f_,)√
It’s basically a flashlight that shines light in the IR spectrum. That spectrum is not visible under the human eye it’s only visible using nightvision.
The easy way to understand is that vision is covered in the Electromagnetic spectrum which is categorized by the wavelength of radiation. Visible light is the section of the EM spectrum which our eye is capable of sensing, but IR is in the section (band) next to that which we can't see, but electronic cameras that are IR sensitive can see. Night vision collects this radiation (photons) and displays the image in the visible light spectrum so we can see the IR band. When an IR emitter says 980nm (nanometers), that's the wavelength of the photon that is being emitted which can't be seen by our eye since it is outside the visible light spectrum, but within the night vision's sensor wavelength range. A regular camera doesn't see IR light because they put an IR filter in front of the lens. If you remove this filter you can then see IR light. Difference between an actual night vision tube vs a IR sensitive camera is night vision has an IIT (image intensifier tube) which takes the photons it receives and then amplifies it by electronically adding to it to make it brighter. An IIT tube has much higher resolution than a digital camera which is why amplifying the photons results in a brighter image and not just a whited out image as would happen when there aren't enough "pixels" to retain contrast when brightness/gain is increased.
