@@FixedUntilBroken Yea, It's hard to find them nowadays where they haven't all desoldered themselves from the board. Would be nice if they gave us some color bands right? And not that it makes any difference, but if you're curious, the stock configuration from top down or bottom up is 120, 150, 150, 120. Some of the Impala's us the same 4 resistors, just spread out a bit differently.
@@mike7958 I suspect they originally did have color bands and that they are just gone from heat. the resistors are in parallel so it does matter the order. They add up 33.33 ohms run like that so you might be better off using all 140 ohm resistors it gets you closer at 35 ohms while all 150 is 37.5 so it is a little darker.
Can you provide some info on how to hooked up some juice to test this? Which pins did you put the +/- wires to and what kind of battery did you hook it up to? Thanks
Is there a video you have or that you could make that could show me how to get access to this circuit board? My LED gear position indicator and odometer/trip display was cutting in and out, and now it just doesn't work at all. I'm great at mechanics and electronics, and I could fix this stupid quick, but tearing apart the dashboard, console and everything else behind .... I need blueprints LOL! HELP!!!!!! 😭
@@FixedUntilBroken absolutely, I understand. not to be a hassle, can you link it in a reply? I've got 2 short days off after my last shift and if I can tackle this, well ... my mom would be forever grateful! xD I appreciate you!
@@crackerjack4833 Too late, but here's a video on the same topic with a good dashboard take apart description. He points out where all the fasteners are. The video by FixedUntilBroken has a better soldering description. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5HRpIumibyE.html I would add to the dash take apart, that once you have all the screws out, you're still pulling friction fittings apart. I find that starting at the driver side and gently pulling the slips/fasteners loose working my way to the glove box works pretty well.
i did this several years ago on our 1st buick no problem, still working. just did it on my 2nd buick and still not working. pretty sure im using the same leftover resistors from the 1st try- didn't work. went to ax man surplus and bought different resistors and still no go. anyone got any other fixes before i go buy a junkyard one? as referenced in other comments i tried some other resistors 2 120 2 150s still nothing. maybe i messed something up, my reading glasses help but im getting old. also 2 of my original resistors were missing so i assume that's the problem or at least a problem. just went out, car only has 100k miles.
Great video! Is there a link where I can find these resistors? I’m trying to source some with a Google search, but I’m falling short on results at the moment.
Do you think this would apply to other GM cars such as Oldsmobile 88 from around the same year with the same issue of the odometer and gearshift display going out?
Back in the good old days people "repaired" high-mileage cars with a reversible drill hooked up to the speedo cable. In 10 minutes you now had a low-mileage creampuff...
Also back in the day they called them creampuffs. I only know that term because I saw this 60 mins report from the early 90s about this fat Texas dealer rolling back odometers
"Also" (back in the good ole days), you just reached under the dash, popped out the socket and bulb, and replaced it. Didn't have-ta pull the entire dash apart. These new plastic cars suck.
