Sam, I gotta say this is just about my favorite content on RU-vid at the moment. You are clearly smart and motivated as hell, and you are enabling aspiring makers and musicians to deepen their craft. You are helping remove financial and mental barriers for people with this channel, and the world needs as much of that as it can get. I can't wait to see what's next.
“ A NOTE”A quick note I possibly didn’t make clear! The power jack isn’t 240 volts! That would be crazy. It’s wired to a 12v ac wall wart. There’s a link in the description to it!
As an electrician if you hooked up 240v or even 115v US to those power supply boards, you would get a capacitor fireworks display you would NEVER forget 😯 DON'T PLAY AROUND WITH POWER OUT THE WALL KIDS IT WILL!!! KILL YOU
Are AC wall - warts or transformers a whole lot harder to come by than DC? I have seen maybe two schematics online for making a bi-polar supply from a D.C. Wall wart, because they're more common out in this here New World. AC are much less likely to be found. So your voltage regulators on your Freq. Central PCBs, they're rated for a good 1 - 1&1/2 Amperes per regulator, no? So maybe a good idea to take note your regulators' current capacities in Amperes when matching the AC wall warts for them. If your wall wart is able to provide 5.5 Amperes of current, then you should probably make allowances by wiring two of the regulator PCBs to the single wall wart (so to use its current capabilities efficiently). By using different values of fuses for both rails, I've learned a whole lot about power consumption. If you're modules need a total of 450 milliAmperes of current, I'll put a 600 mAmp fuse on it, so it won't allow too high of a current spike. More modules, I put bigger fuse. So I've learned that my fuse should reflect my power consumption needs and not just to put the largest fuse that my wall wart would allow! Since maybe I only need 1/2 of my wall wart's power capability. Any thoughts / feelings about the donut shaped Toroidal transformers vs the cube shaped varieties? You are really doing great, Thank You!
You are going to freaking bust your equipment Sam we have a gig coming up remember? FANS PLZ DONT GO :'rjfjrhfjdkcmdnjjhhejfnfhjfje OK ITS ANNOYING PLS DONT SAY HI DONT BURST MY FUSE U 3 YR OLDS PLZ NO ATTACK PLEEEEEEEEEEEZ XD
Let me convert the measurements to US: Depth: 1/3 of a foot Height: 3/8 of an arm holding a budweiser Length: the wingspan of a young american eagle. You are welcome...
For the three remaining backwards countries on the planet that still us the Imperial measurement system (Liberia, Myanmar and the US) the conversion factor is 1 inch = 2.54 cm
'Tools are made to be used not to be pretty, even though they do look pretty in their own kind of brutal way' 'No need for measurements because, measurements, we all know, are for crazy people and mathematicians' Nowhere else can I find such peculiar maxims, keeps me coming back here.
If anyone makes similar make sure those PSUs are wired all in phase! It doesnt matter which you connect if you have one psu board but if you have multiple connected to 12v AC they must be connected in phase
I still can't understand how this circuit works without a transformer... Reactifying bridges, caps and volt. regulators? So is it a rough version of a linear DC supply?
MoolahNasreddin I think it probably is a charge pump. These invert a DC voltage by periodically charging a capacitor with the input voltage and then connecting the positively charged electrode of the capacitor to ground. Then another capacitor is charged from the negatively charged electrode, which now is below ground by the input voltage. I don’t know if this explanation is good, maybe you should look up a circuit diagram.
This video brings up great memories of when I first got into synth DIY and I watched an MFOS video on building a case. Thanks Sam for continuing to push synth DIY to the masses! i'm sure Ray would be proud!
I was waiting for this series since ever!!!! I want to build a DIY-Mudular by myself and now I'm getting 'help' by the Master of DIY-Modular... I love your content!!!!!!
Dude, you're a fucking national treasure. I don't know jackshit about this stuff, but you make it interesting to watch and your passion is contagious. You seem like a down-to-earth and chill dude... had me totally cracking up at your simple "AC current, you know, the wavey one?" Keep it up man! You rock!
Hey Sam! So I'm building my first case. 40 cm x 20 cm sides but only 80 cm wide, due to what wood I already had. Thinking about rail placement now. Can you say why you offset your rails so far back? Most other cases I've seen look to be flush or just very slight recessed. Is it so you can transport your cases with cables plugged in and not damage them? Thanks and keep up the amazing work!
You can use screen window framing pieces for the rails as well. It's very inexpensive (about $4 US for a 7ft length), doesn't splinter when you screw your modules in, and is almost the exact same size as a legit pre-drilled Eurorack rail. Once you get your rails into your case just slap the module into the rail space, mark the holes with a permanent marker, use a 2mm bit to drill holes, then screw your modules right on it. It'll be sung the first go, but the screw will tap your hole as you screw it in since aluminum is soft. Hope you enjoy this tip!
Just made an OSB-version of this for only 20 bucks worth of material and it's huge. Expected it to be less easy / way more prone to critical errors. Thank you for yor content. It can be pretty encouraging.
So can you do a little more about the power supply? This is the most informative video I've seen so far and all your videos are inspiring stuff but it sounds like, when I see +12 and -12 volts, maybe you can use an old desktop PC PSU. God knows I have a ton of those around. BUT what is the pinout like? etc. GREAT WORK! keep on preaching!
Pin out? Anything asling as the wires are wired up right. If you want to use the same connectors as in the vid search up eurorack power connector pinout
Johnny Cogs yep! It was always intended to be a video! But I didn’t really know how to achieve a video like this last year. Without it dragging way too much. So hence it being a zine! But now it’s a vid 🙃
Disagree on the wood rails. I tried that for a minute. But they get chewed up pretty fast if you occasionally move modules around. Also it helps to reduce EMI noise by tying all the faceplates of your modules together electronically. Personally I prefer to buy/scavenge toolboxes and first aid kit boxes for modular cases. They have the benefit of handles, latches and covers. Also plastic and sheet metal construction ends up lighter than heavy ass wood!
I have a bench power supply(fairly cheap one from Amazon), I’m wondering if it works in the same way. I’ve had several failed attempts at making the ms-20 filter and the 1v/octave cem3340 oscillator, after troubleshooting, I’m beginning to suspect the bench power supply I’m using is the culprit. It has a +, - and ground so I assumed it would be fine but after poking my cem3340 oscillator I noticed that when set to 12v, the positive was putting out 3.8v and the negative was -8v. The power supply works fine on projects that don’t use bipolar power.
LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER do you know any DIY power supplies that can handle up to 1.5A? I didn't find any on Google, maybe you know some good DIY websites?
I have a problem with my power supply. If I measure from -12 to +12 I get 48V and from -12 to GND I get 26V. At the start I have 12V but from the first diodes on it is 40V and also at the big capacitors. Can you maybe help me? :D
5 лет назад
Quick question: why choosing 8 pins for the modules and bus board, when you've only got +12, GND, -12 (and the optional +5V) wouldn't it be easier to use 4 pins? ^^
-12v. Ground. Ground. Ground. +12v. Pitch. Gate. +5v. 3 ground lanes to minimise the chance of the +12/-12 coming into direct contact, and the magic smoke that ensues if they do. +5v is typically used to power a microcontroller, so you do need voltage regulators in digital modules. The other 2 lanes are simply for module communication. These are rarely used, and rarely used for their intended purpose. EG malekko use them to sync their sequencer modules, whereas tiptop use them as a mix bus for their drum modules. It's just the eurorack standard (which is actually 16pin not 8, I'm assuming the reason he's using 8 here is just for cost cutting reasons, or just what was at hand). Most eurorack modules use a 16pin to 10pin cable, and simply ignore the +5v and comm rails. It's a common standard, and so it's cheaper and easier to just use what already exists.
Lol, the number of fucks not given makes it cool and slightly disturbing. Like, what's going on in your life where you're all "fuck it, nothing matters"? I appreciate this amateur attitude because you're making it work and you're making it so that anyone can follow you. You've taken a hobby, at hobbyist-level skills, and made something professional in function, yet casual as fuck in style. No offense, but do you ever want to (or do you) make things at a more professional or on a precision level? For example: you could have measured everything out and made something that fits perfectly, is more optimal for traveling, is made out of a lighter/sturdier material, or contains modular brackets to modularly adjust to differently sized modules. Why do you do what you do, how you do it?
I want a t-shirt that says "Mesurements are for mathematicians and crazy people" I was looking for inspiration to build my modular synth. Thanks for you awesome drive !
I accidentally tinkled when it tingled. Ummmm... Perhaps trying it at home was not a great idea after all. Really don't like being wet in the britches :P 6:26
Awesome video Sam! I would add some little metal latches on the sides of the cabinets so they lock in together when they're set up. It'll cost you practically nothing, too. Keep it up 👍🏽
Great video!, I literally uploaded a video putting together my first case last week (someone gave me the wooden frame section). Used the Frequency Central power which was my first attempt at soldering and it has been great so far!
N00b here... just soldered up the microbus and it seems to be working... Is there a diagram that shows how the power out is laid out? seems like 2 dead pins, +5v, +12v, gnd, gnd, gnd, -12v. Can anyone confirm? Thanks.
Look MuM No ComPutEr Much LUV & thank you for the tip/link on the case power via Frequency Central had to order the Routemaster for our entry into the diy modular world.
I have a question about the whole +/-12V DC. So, I came across and article that had shown that use of dual 12vAC/DC adapters wired together creating a +12V/GND/-12V and is the method I decided to go with because of the simplicity of it. Now my main question is...what in the heck gets connected to the -12V? lol The modules I have right now are basic 555, Hex, and Phase locked loops which can be powered by either 5V/GND or +12V/GND. What part of any of diy modules will be using the -12V? I've already blown six 555 chips with experimenting (wasn't the smartest thing but fun fire works in my studio!) lol Answers are greatly appreciated :) thanks
Hey Sam, did you take inspiration from Keith Emerson's Moog Modular setup for your stage shows? Your "Cosmo" synth has got an impressive presence onstage! Love it!!
You cheeky bugger. I just got myself a power supply yesterday with some eurorack rails. It is my first modular and can;t wait to begin making my own modules. Let the building begin 🤘
sending out a whackton of stickers tomorrow (also Neon-Paper-Stickers)... 3 to five days till delivery (it's international)... Are you open for glow in the dark stickers? - Maybe I'll send a second one...
Man, will be cool if you'll be explaining oscillator circuits in details! I know some things but this is basically in the range of just one type of oscillator: saw core Jupiter8 design (made in AdamskiA videos). Very good oscillator (in terms of cheapness) but highly depends on DC stability.
I'm going to have to plug the smoke alarms back in. ATX standards look like they might be more complicated to track than I remember but I really want to reuse and recycle. I deliver papers at night and pick up a lot of roadside goodies but my house is filling up with half finished arcade machines made from desktops and vintage stereos.
Awesome video! I'm finally getting to the point of being comfortable DIY'ing a modular :) Where do you find those nice extra long stripboards for the power bus!? :-o
I always build my Kosmo cases with backs that can flip open. Held closed with magnets. But I guess for touring that would be too fragile. I mount the power bus system on the floor of the case instead of on the back. I love the way you put these cases together Sam. It's so simple and yet so practical.
Just curious: why would you use that kind of power supply? If you go somewhere with anything else than 230VAC, you would need another "transformer", right?
The cases seem quite wide. I can see the benefit of the front space from the batons to leave cables plugged in, but was thinking of making a picture frame type wall mounting to hold my Kosmo's. Is the recommended width just for stacking the cases or are there cooling or other considerations that I haven't thought of? Cheers.
Next time you build a box my man, use a square block of wood, or a T-square to check your center when you drill the pilot holes with a hand drill, it'll help a ton. Love the videos, keep it up.
