Very nice, Stan. Back in 1969, when I was building my first N scale layout, available parts were hard to come by. Electrically-powered switches were costly for a kid whose railway was funded for by making deliveries for the local pharmacy. However, I had a bit of luck; my dad was a pilot, and so was acquainted with the wire-and-bell-crank setup used to move elevators, trim tabs, etc. on small aircraft. He was also an outfitter & guide, and had some heavy waxed thread (linen or flax used to sew canvas, I think), and a box of screw-in metal "rings" like one half of a gate latch. During WWII, while flying from airfields in England, he had seen British full-size practice where elevated trackside switch boxes containing rows of long levers, were linked to steel bars that ran beside the right-of-way to a distant switch. The Switchman would set the 'points' and the corresponding semaphore indicator with these big levers. There was not much variety available in N scale stuff at that time, but the only hobby shop in the district had Peco manual N scale switches. My dad and I worked out a somewhat similar setup to yours. At the switch, a vertical wire link came up next to the switch, and turned to move the manual throw. On the underside was a small plywood quadrant, set up like an aircraft bell-crank. 2 heavy threads attached to this could rotate it 90 degrees or so. Then the two cords ran back through screw-in eyes on the underside. The screw-eyes allowed a change of direction where needed. The cords were attached to a row of levers (clothespins?) set on one side of the layout. The levers were mounted side-by-side on a piece of a bicycle spoke, and springs or a rubber band kept the threads taut. The levers latched at either end of the throw, and the thread rotated the bell-crank when pulled, turning the wire that poked up and moved the switch. A little flag showed how the switch was lined. This worked quite well. By using the metal eyes to change the path of the thread, it could move a switch several feet away. It was not as tidy as what you've built, but the principle was the same. It was quite reliable and most importantly, didn't cost much. If the switches had not been Peco snap-action ones, things would not have worked as well. I'm now retired and living on a small fixed income, and I've been looking at building a small layout of some sort. I really like the method you have invented, with the push-pull dowels, so I may borrow it. Anyhow, many thanks for this "show and tell." I really enjoyed it.
Jim, what a great story! Thanks so much for sharing it. Tinkering around is one of the pleasures of model railroading for me, so I enjoy non-standard solutions. Hope you get a chance to fiddle around a bit with a model of your own!
Nicely done, the only thing I might add (other than the paper clips idea) would be to paint green and red 'calibration bands' at the point where the dowels go into the facia so you can immediately see which way the point is set without peering across the layout. Any recommendation with respect to the maximum lever length under the board? As on OO9 the point throw distance is not that great.
This was was absolutely FANTASTIC demonstration!!! I cannot say Thank you! enough. Your detailed, visual walk-through of the creation and assembly answered any question I might have had after you were done. Wonderful. I do have one question regarding the dowels underneath the layout. Your two shown are very short lengths. If the wood dowel has a length of 15" or longer, do you add some type of support to keep them from sagging? I was thinking, perhaps, a small piece of wood in their pathway with a hole drilled through it for the dowel to pass through.
Excellent observation! Yes, on some of my turnouts there is bench framing that I had to drill a hole in, providing the extra support. Interestingly, it's the really short dowels that are more fussy with a switch really close to the front edge of the layout. Thanks for your kind comments!
Perfect! Just what I needed. I tried the Wills kit with oo9 points, but the metal rod bends the sleeper when switching the points. I'll try a modified version of what you are doing here. Awesome, very professional video! Subscribed. 👍👍👍
why don't you just use your 'jig' to make another bend - just push a drill bit though a hole and bend wire to make a loop. Otherwise very nice and simple and thanks for sharing.
Thank you Stan! That is a fantastic idea. How would you suggest dealing with a switch that is about 7' away from the edge of the layout. It is only accessible by crawling under the layout and popping up through a work portal.
Most folks would probably say to electrify a switch that far away. However, you could also consider cable inside tube control, similar to a bicycle brake, or RC airplane control. A long flexible wire inside a tube could be curved around and still work. The manual brakes I fitted on my ride-on 5" gauge cars use those.
A good idea for operating peco points. I thought as you showed the workings and makings, you were going to have the wire come about an inch dead straight underneath and then put a 90 degree bend in it. Then put another 90 Degree bend facing upwards at the distance you want the push rod to travel. This means the push pull rod would be supported by the wire at one end and the frame at the other. Also the hole in the rod would only need to be round not elongated to allow for an angle change. As you made it, there is a possibility the rod will work its way along the wire and bind the rod in the sideframe or actually fall off.
Great comment! You certainly could make those extra bends. In my case, my facia panel is very thick (3/4" pine board plus the brown hardboard) and did support/guide the sticks well. With the single bend I felt there would be good pinching down pressure on the wire to keep the small hook on top secure in the tiny hole in the switch sleeper. In an addendum video I also showed how a piece of an aluminum rivet could be pinched onto the wire to support the stick end as well. Thanks for the suggestion! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YWOwgrxT7-4.html
@@StanFerris Very easy and cool idea. On my layout, I do something similar, but a bit different. I also use piano wire, but I encase it in a brass tube. The tube runs along the top of the layout to the control horn of the switch. I cut off the nib of the Peco switch control horn and drill a hole for the piano wire. The wire and brass tube run from the switch all the way to the fascia of the layout where I make a small handle. Then, scenery covers the tube to the point that unless you look really closely, you cannot tell it's even there. Then, just like yours, you push or pull the wire to actuate the switch from the edge of the layout.
@@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Sounds perfect Dave. If I had planned for remote control when I was laying track, I would have done something like you did, but unfortunately mine are an after thought. Great comment, thanks!
Hi, David! I've done a few videos on the system I use, which is S-Cab. Very happy with it. Here's the first install one I did: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ryinlRLmx9A.html then I did some others as well. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for a great question!
Hi Ray! I'm using the S-Cab system for battery power. Here's the first video I did on the conversion... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ryinlRLmx9A.html
Saludos cordiales amigo Stan Ferris desde Latinoamérica gracias por el aporte te comento que en Perú a través de la Editorial Salvat este año salió el coleccionable de 100 números Tren Eléctrico . Ahora estoy armando pieza a pieza y justo ahora estoy con los dobles rieles derecha e izquierda y este tutorial a tu ingenio y tenacidad lo aplicaré y se me hace más sencillo maniobrar remotamente , bendiciones .Sería mucho pedir si existe alguna forma en la locomotora hacer que funcione a control remoto y añadir en ese control las velocidades hacerlo más remoto , gracias totales.................................................
Just to add one of the simplest and best explanations I've seen. Thanks for the calm, evenly paced walkthrough. Some of the best 15mins of RU-vid video.
Excellent! This is giving me ideas for my layout. Remote switch machines would be nice, but when I can reach the switch to do it manually, it seems a bit excessive.
Just to follow up, I went even cheaper by using paper clips instead of piano wire! I notice your piano wire is 1.19mm. I think the paper clip is very similar in thickness. I'm working in N scale, but I think wire of half the thickness would be too bendy to provide the necessary action on the switch. Oh, and it works perfectly. Thank you again.
Thanks, Richard! I just wanted to make things as simple as possible since the layout and switches were already in place. Had I done remote controlling from the very beginning, I may have done something like cutting a tube into the surface to run a wire through and put a hand-throw near the edge. So far, I haven't broken off any of the stems! Ha!
Great idea for use with Peco switches. But Peco track uses European tie spacing, so the track doesnt have a North American look. For me that is important. So Peco cannot be used. Atlas is used instead, but Atlas does not have a flip spring to secure the points against the stock rails, so your method will not work very well. Do you have a fix for the problem of switches with no flip spring? Maybe small magnets that ride on the throw bar?
¡Hola buenas tardes Stan! Having watched the addendum video, before posting this comment, I can now add my own thanks for such a clever use of inexpensive materials. On the branch line board, of my garage layout, I have initially installed analogue Hornby surface-mounted point/switch motors. However, I am thinking of experimenting with some hidden, manual operated, lever systems. Your wire rod set up may just be what I’m looking for. Definitely food for thought Stan. I’ll post my experiments in due course. As ever, stay safe and well. Un saludo. Gary
Thank you for sharing this. Great ideas are often the simplest ideas. Like you, I now have 20 or so points to make remote controlled. Might even attempt a double slip, might being the key word.
Stan that was an awesome video. I will give this a try with my first layout. Appreciate you sharing this easy inexpensive rig. Here I am 1 year after many have commented on your video and learning a new idea. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Thank you, John, for the kind words! There are a number of simple ways to control the turnouts remotely, especially at the time you are first laying track. Unfortunately, I didn't think I needed remote action when I was setting up my railroad. Live and learn, I guess! 😁
Might I ask you for some very helpful information regarding the PECO switch you used (and in general). I do not own PECO, however after seeing this manual throw design I plan to buy PECO switches and duplicate your manual switch throw design. It's fabulous! Do all PECO insulated frog switches have the built-in, internal spring that holds the point snugly against the rail when thrown? I was looking at PECO #5 right (# SL-8351) and PECO #5 left (# SL-8352) insulated frog switches for a small switching layout that runs shorter cars and engines. Might you know if these PECO switches have that built-in spring? MANY THANKS!!!
My understanding is that all PECO switches have the built-in spring lock points. The ones you mention are code 83 which is a lower profile rail than code 100. Also, PECO has been offering powered or non-powered frog options as well.
Thanks Stan. Code 83 , a non-powered frog, and an internal spring and I am ready to go. I prefer to add extra feeders to all three switch routes versus a powered frog which puts a lot more emphasis on smooth rolling wheels. I do like that internal spring. That is a superb inclusion making rail contact firm and dependable.
@@Tnapvrvideo Exactly. Although perhaps not as prototypical a look as some others, the mechanical reliability of the PECO has been great for me. That said, you have to clean where the points touch the rails occasionally. I've converted my layout to batter power (dead rail) for my locos, so even that's not a real issue for me anymore.
this is also a great way of fitting remote switch motors without making big holes in the base board and if you have a thick board. I line the holes with fine brass tube as well. Was going to do them all with a square hook in the middle of the rails but love the idea of the indicator. Great vid.
Great video and idea utilizing Peco’s point holding snap spring , I did a similar thing on one of my layouts, The only down side I found is those push-pull rods will sometimes snag your clothing when walking by,🚂
@@StanFerris I did a similar thing.. I built my current layout in four ft modules..but, the flow of my track plan put some of my switches on a joint of two modules. I went with it figuring I would cross that bridge if and when that day comes.
@@StanFerris Ah. Good luck. I do not have so many points. My layout is OO gauge but in the past I had a Garden Railway (45mm track). This point operation mechanism would be very good for that scale also. A long story but my Garden Railway is in the Philippines, boxed up and awaiting funds to ship it back the here in England.
