This is a step by step instructional video on building barn doors with construction grade materials. I hope you find it helpful. Previous barn door build • Barn Door Build DIY
Fantastic job on the door and detail on the route & build process. Best barn door video, everyone else is just choppin and nailin and more concerned about cutesy music and artsy camera shots rather than woodworking, you seem to be the only real craftsman.
Awesome build. I’ve done some barn doors on my own and have had my last couple bow/warp. Any suggestions? Also, on your slats-is there glue running vertically in between or is it just tongue and groove allowing for potential movement? Seems like on my doors the horizontal pieces like to bow
Thank you. The slats are free floating for movement. Just the tounge n groove and dowels are glued. I let my wood sit in my shop for a couple weeks to acclimate to my shop before milling. If there is any problem boards such as bowing, warping or cupping I discard them prior to putting it together. I have made several and have never had any issues. I have 4 in my own home I have made and they are all just fine and have been up for about 3 yrs. Hope this helps
Just came across your channel and enjoying every minute of it. Subscribing and saving for one of my wife's honey do list tasks. If I may ask, are you prior service? Carry yourself like you are. Take care and keep up the hood work.
Thank you. 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 in thickness is standard for most door knobs to work. If your barn door style hanging it you can make it whatever thickness your hardware will work. Thicker is heavier too so keep that in mind
Excellent video. Can you provide a list of router bits you used? I heres what I got: 1/4", 1/2", & 3/8" slot bit 1/4" Toung bit 3/16 roundover bit BTW, you should do some detailed instructions and sell them while barn doors are so popular. You'd make a killing.
Thank you. I would do some detailed plans but those doors are ordered in so many different sizes it wouldn't help much. Everyone would still have to sit down and do the math for the size door they wanted. Some want different widths of slats and sliding doors, some want more or less of an overhang. I used a 1/4 inch tounge and groove bit set to tounge and groove the slats together. I used a 3/8 slot cutting bit to cut the slot all the way around the inside of the door frame. 1/2 slot bit to cut 7/16 off each side of the frame rails to make the 3/8 inch tounge. And I used a 3/16 inch round over bit to round over the outside edges of the door. All the slots, tounge and grooves joinery could all be made on the table saw. Just takes longer to set up.
Great video! Can you explain the 1/16" per board for wood movement? Are you leaving a gap between each board and if so, do you use pennies as spacers when you're assembling?
Thank you. Glad you liked the video. I put a 1/4 tounge n groove joint and the is a 3/8 tounge around the whole inside panel. When milled (I am referring to the cross grain) each board is 1/16 narrower than the final detentions needed to make the panel. This gives 1/16 inch per board. When assembling just use a 1/16 in shim to speard the spacing out. Hope that makes sense. The panel is not glued and is free floating and this allows 1/16th of an inch per board for movement
Finally finished mine. I’ve been wanting a door to partition off my basement workshop for awhile. Had to bring the wall out a bit as the original opening is on a slight diagonal. Definitely not perfect but did the best I could with the tools I have and proud of my first attempt at something like this. Thanks again for the video! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Cfh5NMKARHpBwna_jZJIdy5uGma8bI6g
Thank you.. That is very wide. I would consider making two smaller doors that will cover the area. Then you can open one side just to travel through and can open both if needed. You can even make them look like one door when they are together
This was a very informative video. I am about to build a set of barn doors and was wondering if the dowels are necessary. I can see they might be if the groove is fairly shallow on the rails and stiles. What if I cut a deeper groove? Would the surface area of the tenon be enough to create a strong joint once it's glued?
I have made a few barn doors without the dowels. I am going to release a barn panel door video soon that has no dowels. If you hang the hardware on the styles it should be ok. I think so. But if it is going to be hinged I would feel better to have dowels or some type of tenons. Hope this helps
Yes, thank you very much. The door will be a hanging barn door. I'm a novice and learning as I go by watching lots of videos before embarking on a new project. This video was the one I watched that sold me on the idea that I could build one with tongue and groove panels. I even purchased a set of dado blades. Thanks for the informative video!
Finished building a set of doors for a 61" cased opening in our hunting cabin in south Texas. They have a few flaws, but I learned a lot building them and am happy with the results. Now all I need to do is hang them. Thanks for the video. I'd send a picture if I could figure out how to add it to the reply; a simple copy-paste doesn't seem to work.
@kleonard-zm7nq I am glad the video was helpful and you finished your project. Yeah I don't know how you would send a pic in the comment section either. Never tried it but I have never seen it done either so I'm assuming it can't be done. Thanks for letting ne know you finished your doors
What about the router! 😂 Im very handy and I think I can do it. But for sure Ill make mistakes and wont come out as perfect as yours! I actually need 4 doors like these… Where are you located?
Thank you , very good video. I have customer that wants chevron pattern , and I've never done chevron. How do I do chevron with chevron on bothe sides and keep thickness to no more than 1.5 " Thank you
I’m building doubles. 33”w 83” tall but wasn’t sure how much to charge. I’m also finishing them as well as fabricating the metal sliders instead of buying two $170 kits to save probably over $150 on materials to profit more from this project. I actually built them similar almost to a T compared to yours. I’m about 100% positive I undercharged for my time but it’s just a side gig and also my hobby. I charged $800 for all so far and wondered ball park price on your one non finished and no hardware??? I would like to feel better about charging more but not sure on prices.
The door in this video was all made out of construction grade pine 2X6X8 and pine slats. My prices vary due to the cost of materials used at the time. Hardwoods, such as maple, oak, etc will cost more. So whatever cost you have in your materials plus whatever you value your labor at. I guesstimate the amount of hours it will take to make a project and then multiply that by your hourly rate. To give you some kind of idea on a cost per hour, most will try to make around $30 an hour over all. So as a hobbyist some may only charge $30 per hour for the project. As a business you have to account for your overhead. Such as wear and tear on your tools, electric power used, glue, sandpaper, etc. In cases such as this you may need to charge $60 an hour. Remembering that as a business you will be paging taxes on what you make also. As a hobbyist you can do odd jobs for people and probably not have to pay any taxes in. You have to make so much in a year before taxes are payable. Check your state law on the amount and any other laws or restrictions that your state may have. Hope this helps. I have thought about doing a video on the complete process of wood working as a business. The do's and dont's. How to cover yourself and what all to consider when charging a customer. Would this be a video of interest to you? I have watched so many videos on RU-vid about how to make money Woodworking and make these cheap projects and make big money and none of them cover those finer details.
Hi After I build my barn doors, they do not lay flat, they are slightly lifted on both sides Can you explain why this happens? I use kreg to join the styles and rails
I don't know why the door would be bowing on you. I haven't had any issue with mine and I have made a lot of doors. I would suggest making sure your wood has acclimated to your shop prior to milling it. And do a dry assembly making sure it going together flat. And make sure you keep it flat when clamping. Leave the clamps on it until the glue dries. Other than that I wouldn't know
Thanks Mason. Sorry about the cringe. Sometimes things look deceiving in video. More often than not there is more distance than it appears. Although some cuts are close. But I won't make many that I am not comfortable with but when I do I try to stay focused on what I am doing.
A crossbuck to my understanding is an X on the door and a / is a halfbuck. In most cases it's also called a cross brace when there is only the one / instead of an X but the brace is decorative and not supporting anything structural with this piece. But I guess you can call it either if you want.
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 ok, thanks. i usually see these on sliding barn doors or dutch doors, and i think it adds a nice touch to a home to make it feel more "homey."
@@paulshaw6125 If your materials are flat and your joinery is cut straight and correctly, the only thing I can think of is clamping pressure pulling a bow in your door and the glue is drying it that way. Are you applying clamps over and under to oppose the pressure and hold the door flat?
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I clamp the first board, then attatch the rest1 at a time and clamp with a pipe clamp til I put in Brad's, then take off the pipe clamp and go to the next board.
@@paulshaw6125 I don't know why the door would be bowing on you. I haven't had any issue with mine and I have made a lot of doors. I would suggest making sure your wood has acclimated to your shop prior to milling it. And do a dry assembly making sure it going together flat. And make sure you keep it flat when clamping. Leave the clamps on it until the glue dries. Other than that I wouldn't know
Hi Tracy, this is a question not a criticism, wouldn't it be better to have a longer mortice and tenon on the top, middle and bottom Stiles with it being such a big door? Regards Jim UK.
Hi Jim. Yeah you can do a mortise and tenon joint. I have use tounge n groove joints with dowels in several of these doors. I have 4 in my home. 2 on a rail and 2 on hinges and have never had any issues. There is enough long to long grain glue joints to hold it even without the dowels.i use dowels just as a little insurance. But you could definitely use mortise and tenon.
