Hell yeahhh! Turning out AWESOME! Make sure you put some heat shielding around the areas near the turbo manifold! Maybe even around the mani itself if you really want to keep engine bay temperatures down!
Loving this. I have ZERO interest in doing this with my 996 but I’m really enjoying watching you figure this stuff out and bend the metal to your will.
How has that held up. I've seen similar work on other channels, but they suggest that if you don't back purge, the world comes to an end. That looks really nice, especially for something done at home.
That manifold turned out really nice. It's going to be very capable and I suspect a lot of this work will pay dividends when tuning it since it will be fairly efficient. Definitely make sure to have your heat shields in the right spots and to keep cold air going into that filter, as that will help a bunch (Jeremy has shown this many times about keeping things cool). I've seen a 10% change in airflow going into my N/A E36 M3 when changing the intake air temperature by 30 degrees C.
That's a serious manifold, looks great. If you want to reduce the chance of it cracking at the engine flange, add a support from the turbo to the engine on the bottom, a single rod will do the job and prevent most of the stress the weight of the manifold, wastegates and turbo put on the engine side flange. You used nice thick piping which should hold just fine, but the support will add insurance/longetivity and is a simple solution.
Yes a nice mount is 100% the plan for sure. I forgot to mention it because I wanted to fab wastegate tubing before I committed to a mount for clearances.
It’s funny, I was watching your other vid of you building the exhaust for the Porsche engine and I saw a link of ‘someone putting a Honda engine in a 996’. I thought well that’s interesting/different but I also kinda rolled my eyes lol🤧. Then I see this vid. As I’m watching I recall seeing a classified for a 996 in need of engine for 14k. I’m not particularly familiar with Honda engines but I know they can make pretty good power for the size & cost. Definitely cheaper than putting a Porsche turbo engine in! Pretty cool, got me hooked and def opened my eyes/mind!! I love watching a welding project come to get her and lookin at nice welds🤤.
Looking great, just remember to have some time of flex joint between the gates and the exhaust. Will help with longevity of cracking also a lot easier to remove and install each time having that extra movement.
Hi, enjoying watching you build this monster. Is there any chance you could build an aluminum expansion tank to replace stock setup in a stock 996? Big market. Your thoughts on this would be insightful. Thank you so much.
Really enjoying the build. I'm thinking about swapping a K24 into my Porsche 951 so have been learning a lot from you. One question is I noticed you're not back purging the pipes when welding. I'm just learning tig but thought that was important for stainless. Keep the videos coming!
You will get sugaring on backside with thin walled stainless without purging. With schedule 10 and tight fitting beveled joints I never found it to be a problem. People will argue this but at the end of the day it’s going on a 23 year old car I’m building in my garage not the Mars rover.
All you need is some gold matting round the engine bay and wrap the headers with heatmatt, sick build ben ive been watching from the start when you built fasterproms smart"K"art. I was very impressed with your fab skills. Easy 500 bold Eagles. @pfi Brent needs to tune it for you when he's down at Kyle's or at cleetus shop.
Hey just a note. I would run the turbo with the inlet and filter facing the back of the car. It’s going to help with the heat of the dump pipe running into the Intercooler and the cold pipe from running over the hot down pipe. And looking at where you can run your exhaust pipe it then can be run around and out the left side away from the cold side. What do you think?
@@baysidefabrication ok cool. That’s a good idea. I didn’t realize you were going to that. I keep forgetting that over there you can do as you wish. Over here we have to be under 95 db. I can’t wait to see it. Kickass lad.
With the lack of space for the cam cover, I'm wondering why you couldn't have done a custom oil pan? The thing looks thick and it would lower the engine quite a lot.
Plumbing, weight, pumps etc. not to mention on a street car unless iced down it will run hotter than a air to air. If it were a drag car it would be a different story.
@@baysidefabrication although you do have that coolant line right next to that frame rail on the inside, that you were going to move to the other side anyway. You can run the pump up front with a different radiator (although there's already 1 on each side of the front bumper?)
@@baysidefabrication love the build man Since you built the intake manifold maybe you shouldve integrated an air to water in it or for simpliicty keep it air to air Anyway I would love to see a 4 inch center exhaust with 2 small wastegate pipes one left and one right, just beside it like a 458 ferrari but you know the center bigger than the wastegate
I am an absolute noob so you probably know better than me. Mostly mentioning it so that maybe I can learn something. 😁 But don't you want the wastegate to be mounted at a tear drop angle, I.e., less than 90 degrees? So the gas has an easier time being diverted into the waste gate?
Ideally you want it mounted as close to the exhaust housing as possible. Better yet on the exhaust housing. Yes, angling them would be better in theory.
Having the gate being in the priority of flow helps a lot with boost control. But like he mentioned in the video being a 46mm gate for only 2 cylinders each it should still have no issue. Log style manifolds sometimes aren’t in priority of the flow at all and can control boost up to around 500ish hp on single 44mm gates.
