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Building a Flat Car from a Red Caboose Kit

HO Scale Rio Grande in the San Luis Valley

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Links to items mentioned in this video. (Note: I am NOT endorsing any particular product(s), nor am I compensated by or connected to any of the companies mentioned.) I do NOT guarantee that these links will give you the best available price! Consider these links to be a starting point for your search.
Historical note: KC brakes are K brakes with the cylinder and the air reservoir combined. The AAR approved the AB brake style in 1933 and required all new cars to be built using AB brakes. They also gave the railroads five years to convert their existing fleets, but with the depression, and World War II, and postwar shortages, that deadline was extended several times. All K brakes were finally barred from interchange service in 1953.
Crafter’s Pick Ultimate: www.crafterspic...
AB brake components: www.accurail.co... These cost $3 for two sets or $25 for twenty-five sets.
Rio Grande Modeling and Historical Society: rgmhs.org/ Their data on the Rio Grande flat car roster can be found here: rgmhs.org/reso...
Northeastern Scale Lumber: www.northeaste...
Vetero stains: www.besttrains... The video shows Aged Barn Wood and Shadow Gray. I didn’t like the final color, so I tried Murky Brown and Shadow Gray as explained in the narration. That’s the color I ended up using.
Northwest Short Line Chopper: nwsl.com/colle...
Distressing and weathering a plastic flat car deck: • Flatcar Deck Weatherin...
Realistic Flat Car Decks: • 3. Realistic flat car ...
Kadee 2-56 drill and tap set: www.kadee.com/s...
Alternately, A-Line makes a deluxe drill and tap jig set: ppw-aline.com/... This set includes the #50 drill and 2-56 tap, and includes brass jigs which allow you drill and tap holes for mounting coupler gear boxes with #2-56 screws.
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SPECIAL NOTE: Observant viewers will see cobwebs in the opening and closing scenes of this video, proving once again that the camera will show details that you won’t see when looking at your models. Clearly, I need to do some dusting!
This video was edited using Shotcut for Linux. Video footage and still images were recorded using a Galaxy A10e phone and a Nikon D7100 camera.

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26 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 30

@w.rustylane5650 Месяц назад

I love building the Tichy Train Group kits. So far I've built a 40' flatcar (I painted each individual board a different shade of brown), 2 ore cars and a 40' 40 ton wood side gondola. Those kits are fun to build and once you're through, you can say "I built that!" Cheers - eastern TN

@rwissbaum9849 Месяц назад

I agree completely. Early this year, I discussed plans for a video on building a fleet of nicely detailed freight cars at modest cost. Tichy's cars are an excellent - although labor intensive - option for this. It's a shame the selection of cars is so limited.

@w.rustylane5650 8 месяцев назад

I always paint both sides of the weight flat black for future corrosion control. If there is any rust I remove it first by sanding. Since it's just a weight I usually don't prime it first. I model a fallen flag railroad, the Central of Georgia. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN

@whiteknightcat 10 месяцев назад

I just thought of a way to stain your wood strips without having to resort to painting. If you anticipate using the 11 inch strips of wood, you could take an old piece of PVC pipe maybe an inch in diameter and 6 inches long and cement a cap on one end. This will be the bottom. You can now stand the tube upright in an empty jelly jar or similar and pour the stain in it with a funnel. You can then use the dip-and-flip method to stain your strips, then pour the stain back in its bottle with the funnel afterwards.

@w.rustylane5650 5 дней назад

I just recently discovered Red Caboose HO scale rolling stock. I've also discovered Silver Streak and McKean HO scale models and they all have almost the detail level of a Kadee car (I have 2 Kadee boxcars). Only thing missing is the coupler cut levers but one can add those. Almost all my models require K-brakes 'cause I model the early 1900's. Cheers from eastern TN

@rwissbaum9849 5 дней назад

I have about a dozen Red Caboose kits in my inventory. Sadly, the kits are no longer produced - Intermountain bought Red Caboose some years ago, and Intermountain has told me that their manufacturer actually charges them *more* for a kit than they do for a RTR model! Silver Streak and McKean are also no longer in production. The modeler today has fewer and fewer options when it comes to high quality kits. You can still get onesies and twosies on eBay and at swap meets, but good luck finding, say, ten identical kits.

@sedatedape315 9 месяцев назад

Beautiful.

@patrickwines9551 8 месяцев назад

There are many flatcars running around with pockets that are past the decking, as when damaged it's a small matter to weld on replacements, vs cutting the side sill apart for inset versions.

@johnbanicki7232 Год назад

Thanks for sharing.

@thecnwmondovilinepaulscota7304 Год назад

Very nice build. I love the wood deck.

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

Thanks! It turned out so nice that I'm using the same technique to add a wood deck inside a box car with opening doors for my upcoming video on adding details to an inexpensive freight car. Stay tuned...

@pdrrengineer1404 Год назад

Great job on the car build, the wood deck turned out beautifully. Also thanks for all the links.

@duanewhite3275 Год назад

Excellent. I enjoy your videos.

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

Thanks!

@whiteknightcat 6 месяцев назад

Not exactly related, but I just now discovered that the stake pockets on the classic Mantua / Tyco "50 foot flatcar" are exactly half an inch apart. I was thinking of how to extend the original car from its stock 49'8" length to a more prototypical 53'6" length. All I'll need to do is splice two bodies together with the extra half inch created in the splice, as half an inch is almost dead on the needed 3'8" needed to get the car to the right length. Bonus - it won't spoil any detail, as the body is surprisingly well detailed and cast. It even has towing stirrups. I can then replace the steel weight with a custom cut lead sheet (like on my spliced Athearn gondola project) and then either splice two of the plastic wood decks similarly, or just use a laser cut one from one of several manufacturers.

@rwissbaum9849 6 месяцев назад

Now that you're building a nice fleet of flat cars, what do you plan to do for loads?

@whiteknightcat 6 месяцев назад

@@rwissbaum9849 I haven't begun yet - I only took measurements last night. Was not planning on a fleet, just maybe one or two. The gondolas will be the "fleet". As I have no layout, I'll probably end up donating everything to a local club in future as I begin closing out my life.

@craiglowrey9550 Год назад

Great job! The "little" extras always make a BIG difference.

@DJE2025 Год назад

👍👍Very nice build! 🚂🚂

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

Thanks! My biggest complaint is the way the brake staff fits to the end of the car - the instructions were not at all clear, and the staff did not have mounting pins that mated to the car body casting. I had to wing it, and the staff ended up not quite vertical. Oh well, it gives me something to improve upon for next time!

@hirsutusi5536 Год назад

Nice build. I cut my wood strips to length first then dunk them in an India ink wash.

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

I've always worried the stain would cause the strips to get longer - any issues with that?

@hirsutusi5536 Год назад

@@rwissbaum9849 Not that I've seen. They might get fatter when they're wet but I let them dry thoroughly before using them.

@paullindell Год назад

I want to do the real wood on some bulkheads on bulkhead flat cars. I could break some of the planks to be more prototypical. I think that would look good.

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

Agreed. I keep thinking of additional places where this wood planking technique would add realism and interest. I'm currently adding detail to a cheap RTR box car - I'm planning to use the wood planks left over from this flat car project to the floor of the box car inside the open doors...

@CassidysWorkshop Год назад

Really clear video, and great tips and techniques. Good job on replacing the dates and the brake update. Do you use any soap in your brush wash to keep the water's surface tension down? I often run into that when thinning with water. I'll often cut my stripwood in half so both ends will stain up to the middle, as long as that doesn't cause me to use more in the long run. And don't get me started on cobwebs. I think they are invisible until a camera shows up. LOL

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

I've never had any particular issues with surface tension, but if I did, I'd be more inclined to thin with 70% IPA - I'd be worried about a soap scum forming as the paint dried - don't know why; that's just a knee-jerk reaction. Cutting the stripwood shorter is a great strategy until the stain bottle gets to half full - then your'e stuck no matter what you do. I almost always just brush the stain on. My biggest concern is tipping over a bottle of stain - I would GLADLY pay ten bucks for a base that cradled the stain bottle so it couldn't tip over! Pouring some stain into a flat dish is great - until you try to pour the leftover stain back in the bottle...

@CassidysWorkshop Год назад

I agree, sometimes I've used alcohol as well. I've been really careful and haven't knocked over a stain bottle… yet. Motrak Models makes a nice holder that holds both Vetero and Hunterline stains. I haven't got one but I've thought about it. It's $15, plus shipping.

@rwissbaum9849 Год назад

What a fantastic tip! Okay, more than $10, but worth it. You know how every once in while you find yourself doing something stupid, and you say, I really shouldn't be doing this, and then disaster strikes? Well, I've never tipped over a bottle of stain yet, but I KNOW the day is coming. I've just placed my order. This will save me a lot of stress when I'm applying stain. Thanks again.

@CassidysWorkshop Год назад

I do know that feeling. I'll probably pick one up from them at the Timonium show this weekend, just to be safe.