"Model Railroading is not an outcome - it is a journey."
In early 2021, I discovered a video on RU-vid which helped me achieve a great look for the shingled roof on the station at the town of Del Norte, Colorado on my layout. That video was by Jason Jensen (search for him!) Since then, I have benefited from hundreds of videos by dozens of RU-vid contributors. So I decided to begin sharing some of my work, some of my methods, and some of my experience. I hope these videos will inspire other modelers.
My philosophy is easily expressed: (1) Model railroading should be fun. If it isn't fun, it's not a hobby - it's a job. (2) Model railroading need not cost an arm and a leg. Use the least expensive materials and tools to achieve the results you want. (3) Models do not need to be faithful to a prototype, but they should look as though they could be.
Very nice work. I’ve done a number of these. One thing I do is use coffee stirrers for the deck. Slightly out of scale, but I generally put a load on them and tends to make it less noticeable. Honestly I don’t even swap out the trucks, I just cut off the horn hook and put in metal wheel sets.
Boss, your the reason why i have so many "cheap" cars in my roster. i plan on remaking most of them with your tips and methods so im not spending $90 per car. nothing against the newer cars or manufactures, but hot dam, id be broke after only a few. Would you by chance do a video on a Ore Jenny if you come across one? i have quite a bunch of those president choice red ore cars that could use the makeover Cheers, from Canada
The only ore cars I own are the Tichy kits - $16.50 for a two pack. If you'd like to email me a few photos and a copy of the instructions, I can tell you what I'd do.
Nice work as always. I have a bunch of those Tyco bulkhead flat cars. I plan to keep them as bulkheads. I will do the truck and couplers, but I'll not do the super detailing. I'm a cluts, so those nice little parts would wind up on the layout or the train room floor. I will paint and number them for my freelance railroad NESX.
When I'm working with wood or mat board (as on this project) I use yellow PVA glue such as Elmer's Carpenter's Glue or Titebond. I use Aileen's Tacky Glue to attach plastic or metal parts to wood. I use yellow PVA because once cured, it will not loosen if it gets wet. We use a lot of water and water-based materials in model railroading, and I want to be sure that I can safely apply scenery materials around my structures.
Almost forgot: *Never* squeeze glue (not even Elmer's white glue) straight from the bottle onto your model! Instead, buy yourself a box of *flat* wooden toothpicks. Then squeeze a dollop of glue onto a piece of scrap paper (I use 1.5" square Post-It notes) and use a toothpick to pick up a drop of glue and spread it in position on your model. This gives you much better control of how much glue you apply and where you apply it.
Those are nice signals. I downloaded on Thingaverse all the parts except the 1 mm brass tube (expensive little bugger) and LEDs. I do N scale, but they have both. For the cost of 6 retail signals you can buy a nice 3D printer.
I hadn't even thought of 3D printed parts! I guess my age is showing... and 3/64" brass tube is $6 for two 12 inch pieces. In N scale, you'll almost have to use magnet wire. *Resist* the urge to use the brass tube as the common conductor - I think that's why my first two signals developed shorts.
@@rwissbaum9849 I'm an old guy myself. The print calls for 1mm tube and if I remember right it was like $12.00 for 1 piece and 3/64 comes in at 1.19mm. You can bet I'll try the 3/64 next time. That's like an extra coat of paint. Yes, the magnet wire is fragile so I sometimes throw a coat of clear nail polish to help. Thanks for the tip.
You always come up with good subject matter. I have a bunch of older signals that was thinking of retro fitting with LEDs. This is model railroading in the 21st century.
I hate to mess with your economic justification, but the N scale signals range in price from $3 to $8 each (plus $2.49 shipping). They are not as nicely detailed as the HO scale signals I have shown, but for the price, I would certainly check out one or two before I bought that 3D printer.
Could you please identify the era for both of the signals you described? I’m new to model railroading and I have watched many videos trying to figure out what signals belong to what era but have not been able to really pinpoint them yet. I know that in some cases it varies by road. I’m modeling the transition era somewhere between 1955 and 1957. And modeling western roads such as ATSF, UP and D&RGW. My layout is a freelance for a fictitious location in a southwestern desert where these roads go through. I enjoy your videos and find them very helpful. Thank you
First, a disclaimer: I am *not* an expert on signals; I have picked up a little bit here and there, but please do some research on your own to confirm - or correct! - what I'm about to say. The searchlight signal was patented in, I think, about 1910. It consists of a light source, a lens, three colored filters on a solenoid-actuated armature, and a second lens. The two lens system meant that for the first time, the lights were visible for distances of a mile or more. There is a great video showing how the searchlight signal works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HfxSJgGltuw.html The invention of the searchlight signal marked the beginning of the end of semaphore signals. The Type D signal uses the same two-lens system, but without the solenoid-controlled armature; instead, each light has a fixed color filter. A D-type signal head can have 1, 2, or 3 lamps, each of a different color. In the western states, a "snow hood" was commonly used on type D signal heads (and in fact, snow hoods are increasingly common throughout the US.) Both the searchlight SA signals and the type D signals have seen heavy use throughout the 20th century. The D&RGW adopted the type D signal as early as 1920, but it wouldn't surprise me at all to see searchlight signals in use on the D&RGW even in the 1950s. I model the Rio Grande in the late 1950s and I have both type D and searchlight signals on my layout (but that doesn't necessarily make it prototypical!) In the modern era, type D signal heads are slowly replacing the searchlight signals - in my opinion, because of fewer moving parts. Signal *aspects* (that is, the combination of lights displayed) can control train speed only, or they can control train speed and route (to a limited extent). If you want to control just train speed, you need - at most - five aspects: Clear (continue at normal speed), Approach Medium (continue through the signal but reduce to medium speed), Approach (proceed through the signal reducing to medium speed and prepare to stop at the next signal), Restricting (Proceed at restricted speed), and Stop (do not continue past the signal). (I do not model the Restricting aspect because the D&RGW used a lunar aspect (a dim white light) to indicate Restricting - this is quite hard to model with LEDs.) These aspects (except for Restricting) can be modeled using a single SA head, a dual SA head, or a single or dual type D head. If you want to indicate route as well as speed, you need to distinguish between the straight and the diverging routes, and will add three aspects: Diverging Clear, Diverging Approach, and Diverging Approach Medium. These three aspects all require a dual head signal, because the upper light is red and the lower light is green, yellow, or flashing yellow (at least, they are on the D&RGW). In these cases, the aspects mean the same as regards speed, but warn the engineer that the diverging route through the turnout has been selected. JMRI has a great web page illustrating signal aspects: www.jmri.org/xml/signals/RG-1965/aspects.xml These aspects were taken from the D&RGW Rules of the Operating Department. This is an incredibly complex subject, and I expect there are very few people left who could speak knowledgeably about signalling practices in the 1950s. For the modern era, you might reach out to some actual engineers.
Richard, you are indeed a brave man. I have scratchbuilt a couple signals for my small dioramas using Tomar parts which they sell (or sold?) separately. But they were semaphore, needed because no one made lower quadrant ones like the WM used. I would be terrified trying to make lit signals, I know somehow I'd set the layout on fire! Nicely done my friend, they look great.
As far as I know, WeHonest does not build semaphore-type signals at this time, but I'd drop them a line - it seems like they are always adding new products. In the meantime, Tomar makes a very nice lower quadrant semaphore signal, but like all Tomar signals they are a little pricey: tomarindustries.com/products/semaphore-h-840?_pos=12&_sid=7877ecad9&_ss=r I would never attempt to build my own semaphore signal, nor my own crossing gates!
@@rwissbaum9849 You're right, those are beautiful. But I just needed static signals for my unpowered diorama. I think I may have considered paying for them even though I didn't need the motion or lights, until I found they sold all their parts ala carte. Still have lots of parts if I ever need to build a couple more someday.
I suspect that someone somewhere is able to scratch build HO signals but a video on it would probably not be useful to most modelers with limited resources. I appreciate the suggestion to buy low cost quality instead. Thanks.
I built my first two signals almost 18 years ago - those were the two that developed shorts in less than a month. I did not pluck up the courage to try again for almost 10 years - I let a whole drawer full of parts languish the entire time. Then I built the next three signals and was incredibly pleased with myself - even today they look quite nice and they perform beautifully. Then, about a year ago, someone (Mike of Main Track Trains) posted a video showing some grade crossing signals made by a company called WeHonest in China - here is the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AOPQMWP7HEU.html I was impressed enough to order a pair, and for $13.50 (shipping included) they were a great deal: not as good as my crossing flashers from Tomar, but also one-tenth the price! Then last February, Jimmy of the DIY/Digital posted a video of his N scale block signals from the same company. That prompted me to check out their current list of offerings, and I was blown away. I've bought three different styles from them so far; my favorites are the two styles I've shown in the video. If only I'd known then what I know now... ...which is what prompted me to make and post this video.
Another thought: Central Valley makes freight car underframes... I think they come in a 4 pack. I simply measure carefully then cut the underframe to fit.
Great tip! I have built a CVMW stock car kit and I liked the ease of construction and the appearance. The underframe kit looks great - I'll check it out. Accurail also sells a variety of underframe kits.
This always bothered me too! I use small straight pins. I drill a hole and fit the pin end where I want it. A dab of CA and it is cemented for life! Your method is a good one too!
That's a simple question which requires a complex response - too complex to provide here. Instead, I have posted a short video which - hopefully! - answers your question. You can view it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FWKAQhuundg.html
These are Bachmann Square Corner Magnetic Clamps. They're pretty pricey - Amazon has them for about $48 for a set of four - but they are the best corner clamps I've found. Here is the link, but shop around: www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Industries-Magnetic-Clamps-Magnets/dp/B014X3MVRO They may be disappearing - MicroMark used to sell them, but they are out of stock. Kalmbach Hobby Store has them for 49.99.
Thanks for a very interesting and informative video. To me, painting is one of my favorite aspects of model (re)building. Any excuse to get out the airbrush. On many occasions I have used handmade stencils to simulate renumber cars. One question I hope you can answer concerns tank cars that have platforms/safety cages around the top hatch. I've seen lines of tank cars where all have them and lines of cars without. Do you know what determines when a tank car has one? Any information you can share will be greatly appreciated.
I have never found any authoritative explanation as to why some tank cars have platforms and some don’t. However, I worked as a chemical engineer for 45 years, so I can make some pretty good guesses. Here goes: 1. Platforms are only provided in locations where operators have routine tasks to fulfill. This provides a safe working space for the operator. For tank cars, this means that platforms are provided on tank cars which require vapor recovery during loading and unloading. Tank cars are loaded and unloaded from the bottom. Hoses are connected to a valve at the bottom of the tank, and liquid is pumped into or out of tank. If the vapor in the tank can be allowed to escape to the atmosphere, no vapor recovery system is required. 2. Historically, this meant that tank cars in services such as petroleum products, corn syrup, ethanol, sulfuric acid, and caustic (to name a few) would not require platforms. 3. However, tank cars which contain very toxic chemicals - for example, liquid chlorine, anhydrous ammonia, or vinyl chloride monomer - require recovery of the toxic fumes during loading and unloading. In these cases, hoses are connected to a valve on the dome, and those hoses are connected to either supply or recover vapors from the tank during the loading and unloading process. Since an operator is required to be present to connect and disconnect these hoses, platforms are provided. 4. In recent years - that is, since 1963 when the Clean Air Act was passed - more and more fluids conveyed in tank cars have required fugitive emissions controls. This means that more and more services require vapor recovery systems. This is why most - but not all - modern era tank cars are equipped with platforms. (If you have ever filled your gas tank in California, you probably noticed that there is no gasoline odor in California gas stations. This is because the mandated vapor recovery systems in California have nearly eliminated fugitive emissions in gas stations.) 5. Notice I said “most but not all” tank cars have platforms. This is because a few services by their very nature do not require vapor recovery. The two services that come to mind are LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas, or propane) and LNG (Liquefied Natural Gas); there may be others. I hope this helps. I also hope that anyone reading this who has better information will correct and expand on what I have said.
@@rwissbaum9849Thank you for your insights. I also had difficulty finding info and thought maybe manufacturers/purchasers preference but that just didn't make much sense. Your explanations seem logical.
Three reasons - no, four: First, although the shell looks like other locomotives sold as Athearn GP7s, there are a lot of different GP7 models out there, and they are not dimensionally identical. Second, Athearn retooled its GP7s at least once, so it could be difficult to identify which underframe fits. Third, there's no guarantee that I could even buy the part. And fourth, I had all the materials and parts on hand (except for the snowplow pilot), so there was no need to buy even more parts!
@ocalicreek and @Greatdome99 have both made the same point. It's great that there is a large group of knowledgeable modelers out there who come to my rescue - maybe not so great that I make the mistakes in the first place!
A few years ago, I bought this digital caliper: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUC6XQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 This device has saved me a *huge* amount of time and guesswork over the years. It'll cost you about $20, but if you do much scratchbuilding or kitbashing, it will pay for itself many times over.
You never fail to amaze me. In fact you've been quite a source of inspiration to me and a project I'm currently undertaking - the rebuild of an old English Blue Pullman train. The task looked almost impossible but seeing you rebuild many of the models (such as the car that looked like it fell out of the ugly tree) made me realise that such a rebuild was not so impossible for me either. Thank you for your videos, they're so much appreciated.
I use Evergreen canopy cement, but I expect any brand would work. I actually got this idea from Boomer - see his "Boomer Diorama" channel. He used GAC 500 by Golden for a similar application. I didn't have any GAC 500, so I tried canopy glue and worked just fine.
Wow, what a transformation ! I wish I knew you had this projcet in mind. In my junk pile I have a couple of chassis that would have fit that shell, I would have donated them to the project. keep the videos coming, it is a pleasure to what your projects.
Brilliant conversion from junk to jewel. I open out the headlight holes slightly with a number 47 drill and use the longer 1.8mm LED's for headlights. Then use Tulip matte dimensional fabric paint to stop light bleed inside the shell when I'm adding lighting. Tony.
Looks great! You have given me inspiration to do some of my own cars. All I buy is the used ones from my local shop. I replace the knuckles and wheels, and now I'm going to try pain and decals. Thank you for such detailed videos.
Comments like yours let me know that I am achieving my goal of helping other modelers by providing solutions to simple problems. Thanks for the feedback and goo luck.
I would get in on this if I had any more room on my layout. I would think that Design Preservation Models, (DPM) would have a kit or parts that could be used as a launch pad for the project.Looking forward to seeing your build as you do great work.
Thanks for the introduction to Sanborn maps, I had often wondered where to look for such items. In such a touristy street, how was the meal? I might give the build a go but puzzle how to do the cornice without a 3D printer. I see that the Sanborn key shows those two adjacent buildings as having a metal cornice, not sure what that refers to.
As I recall, I ordered the Flight of the Benedicts - three different styles of eggs Benedict (you choose from about 10 different varieties). They were amazing...and amazingly decadent! I've been thinking about this build since last September. As Motortown Curiousities mentioned, it might be possible to use some cornice detail from one or more DPM kits. Walthers Modulars might be a possibility. I also thought about layering sheets of 0.010" styrene. The hardest part will be creating that row of triangular recesses just below the cornice - it looks to be three bricks high. I do not have a 3D printer either, but I know that Shapeways will let you upload a design and print it for you. At the moment, I'm leaning toward printing the brick portion of the facade and building up the frame portion from styrene. I'll keep you posted.
As soon as I saw the building, I said to myself, I have a kit that looks very much like that building. I think it is Suydam kit. I don't know if I will do the build, but I will definitely follow along.
I had watched part of this a while ago but never finished it, and just noticed that, so I did now. Great job on the truck, I've got some vehicles on my layout that could benefit from this. I should plop them on my workbench right now so I can't put it off. But I was amazed that you have the same burnishing tool that I do. I didn't know it was still available. I had gotten mine at work back in the 80s when I was doing type layout and pre-press work at a printing company. When I retired, I still had it even though I had moved to doing my work on computers for many years. So it naturally went in my workbench toolbox, where it's often come in handy. Very cool. Great video as usual. 👍
This is the only video I have found that shows how to update the trucks with this kind of mount. Filling the plug hole is the answer I've been looking for. Thank you
