A couple of points to help you. I make knives and have a jig close to yours. First, use a marker on the edge to see where the high and low spots are for a 100% uniform edge. Second, get a good leather strap to strop the edge after sharpening. It will remove the micro burrs from the edge. Third, get you an assortment of chain saw files from 1/32 to 1/4 and make a second arm for the jig to hold the files to sharpen the serrated edges. Just keep in mind that the serrated blade edge is shaped on a slighter angle than the regular blade. Only a couple of degrees difference between the two but it is a difference. Other than those notes you are an inspiration to all outdoors people. I love watching your videos.
Use a permanent marker on the edge before using the stones. It will show you where you have removed material and where you need more work. You can wipe it off with isopropyl alcohol
Another great project, Lilly. I have been wondering about something like this for a while, and here you are with one! You have lovely hair ... please tie it back when using tools.
Rotating caster bearings are amazing. I made a bike trailer hitch from one and it's still going strong five years later. It's impressive how much they can take.
Very clever, very nice! You do fine, beautiful work Lilly! I wish I could have watched your videos with my father before he died. I think he would have liked them very much. He was very clever and inventive also. We could have done these projects together. Thank you.
great video, lilly! something i thought of while watching you sharpening your knives is, since you have only 2 stones, maybe mount the other stone on the opposite side. that way, when you are ready to switch stones, you just have to rotate the arm around to the other stone.
Hi Lilly. You did a remarkable job in this video. A lot of work no doubt. Thanks for the video. Nice workshop too. It is very important to keep all our survival knives sharp and ready. Thanks a lot.
I like it, very ingenious. I use a Lansky for my pocket knives, which is similar to what you made. As some other people have suggested, I use a sharpie on the edge to see exactly what I am taking off and where. Also always run your stone against/towards the edge, lift up and repeat, instead of going back and forth, or at least that’s the way I have always done it. Mineral oil, or something similar helps to.
Wonderful workshop! Great tool you’ve made there. I have one myself that was gifted to me. It’s awesome to put the exact edge you want on a knife consistently! Nothing like a fresh edge. My son brings all his when he visits so they’re always perfect. Hunting, kitchen, pocket knifes we do them all at once. Thanks for sharing!
Hello, Lilly; Good video, & good design. Use a phone app, ( I have Rotating Sphere Inclinometer ) to check the angle of the blade. Then check the angle of the stone-holder, subtract the blade angle from the holder angle. The difference is the angle your knife is sharpened at. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Old school do it by hand. I enjoy sharpening knives, found that I enjoy it more holding knife and stone. Bought one of those sharpening systems always went back old school. Takes practice go slow stick with it.
Great video thanks! I never realized that you are such a handy girl! And you have a well equipped workshop! Also it's the first time I noticed your beautiful hands! 👍🖐️
Hello, don't be bored, sorry, you have to calculate the angle precisely for sharpening, for example, a 20 degree angle is good for a knife blade, you have to use trigonometric functions to adjust this angle to calculate the size of the side of the base, the size of the height and the size of the arm that is the sanding stone. and build the system according to those sizes The second point is to use water when sharpening so that both the blade and the sanding stone are not damaged (of course, there are two types of sanding stones, water sanding stones and oil sanding stones). Good luck
Nice jig. With a little more work I imagine you could come up with a mount that holds 2 or 4 stones (so you just rotate the rod to use a different one).
Good job. And maybe mounting a handle onto the detail, to which the whetstone is attached, could make the job more convenient and could protect your fingers from getting cut.
counterbore first then drill hole. use a countersink for flat head screws, not counterbore. for flat head screws you drill first then countersink. you’re getting a burr when sharpening because you’re dragging the stone away from the edge. push the stone towards the edge, and you will not get any burrs.
a couple of tips if you don't mind: - cut on the left side of the vise, that way you can hold the cutoff piece much more easily - don't move the sharpening stone sideways, it will wear a groove making it unusable for normal sharpening - that handle has 4 sides, you can mount more than 1 stone on it and just rotate it to use a different stone, i also just watched a different video on this subject and the guy made a spring loaded mount for the stone. 3 screws and 30 seconds is way too much when you have 10 knives to sharpen and have to change 3-4 stones for each. Otherwise nice job.
You might try a linear bearing for the rod guide. This will work well, but mine used to squeal if the metal got rough. I had the bearing in my 3d printer stuff, and popped it in. Nice and smooth. I always grind toward the blade, and alternate forward and backwards at an angle. The stone makes grooves, and changing the angle rips those off. Good for removing a lot of metal when you need to. Leather or canvas, and polishing compound and strop the shit out of the blade.
If you were to attach a piece of 1/4" plywood with a series of jig- zagging holes the same size as your guide rod, you would be able to change the angle of your cutting edge, by using the next highest, or lowest hole in the 1/4" plywood. You may have to remove the top half of your castor-stand, in order to sharpen finer edges. Use a candle, rubbed around the inside of each hole, to stop chatter, and sticking. If you make the hole board tall enough to get 30%, it will work on chisels, and planer blades. Hope this helps.
Good video and very clear. I have a suggestion: When drilling smal and larger holes at the same point: first drill the large holes, it is much more easy.
WELL DONE LILLY! A LOT of good thought went into the planning and THEN...the making of your new jig = TALENT! I would add to your title; 'Special guest appearance; AMY!' (LOL) Health and God's blessing upon you n' yours!
if you want to see where the stone is filling on the edge,color the edge with a dark marker and while you file you will be able to see exactly where the stone is rubbing against the edge and/or if the angle is correct as well...just a little tip that I learned .
As someone who utterly sucks at sharpening his swords, that might come in handy. Unfortunately, I also suck at crafting stuff. Time to ask someone about it!
