Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 3: Frame Reinforcement and 3 Point Hitch install 

You continue to show that you are so much of a better engineer than anyone concerned with the original design of the tractor. However it seems that the original engineers were going for the minimum strength that was needed for the attachments that they designed . That being said there were still weak points showing up years after the useful life was expected to have ended. Really great videos.

Great commentary

YOUR VIDEOS PRESENTED ON BUILDING TRACTORS HAVE BEEN THE BEST VIDEOS I HAVE CAME ACROSS SO FAR. YOU EXPLAIN TO DETAIL REASONS WHY EACH PART SHOULD BE AS IT IS AND WHAT PRECAUTIONS SHOULD BE TAKEN WHILE UNDERGOING SIMILAR PROJECT. GOD BLESS YOU SIR.

that parking brake mod is genius .

Looking good. Very strong is the way to go and you nailed it. I can't believe the engineers couldn't come up with a better way to go around the brake drum. Actually I do believe. They want it to break so you have to buy a new machine. Well done Bob

Looking forward to the next installment, Thanks

Cant wait to see more on it nice job adding strength to to frame

Coming along nicely. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)

I like your pin spanner.

Those blind nuts are called "rivnuts" seeing as it is a cross between a rivet and a nut.

Alan here those holes are referred to as for plug welding.

I watched all these vids and liked them. I went to you site and tried to find something on your 3 point hitch but nothing have you a vid on that would really like to see one thanks.

I'm curious about the capacity of that diverter valve ... I've been rebuilding these garden tractors in the same class as what you're working on for some time , and each one that I have tested for relief pressure on the lift circuit have tested between 900 and 1050 psi ... Do the Case / Ingersalls run lower system pressure than the others ?? Thanks ... Good vid series btw ...

When you say the frame stock is 80 thousandths, that equates to about 5/64 approx...I was under that assumption that case and Ingersoll frames were thicker than that, although just going from memory.

I was thinking of making my own loader but the cost to build one where I live is quite high and to buy even a mini loader is hard to find and very expensive

Hey looking good. Google "coltcaseingersoll" looks like you would make a great member to the site. It is an older site with lots of archives, and pretty active. I saw you on the other new site ;-) One thing CCI has 3 trusted dealers, and you really need to get the seal for around the oil filter to the tin, it is important for proper cooling air flow over the valve area on that side of the engine,to avoid valve problems. With the mower back on you may want to look at adding some more stiffener support from the main frame to the rear axle. There are ears on the bottom of the axle for a sleeve hitch to mount to, you should be able to mount a brace to those ears and up to where the frame is full height. This will arrest the axles tendency to want to roll (top) to the rear when pushing forward and roll forward when backing up. The busted frames I have seen were using either the front push blade, or rear one bottom plows and cultivators. Of course popping wheelies will stress it to ;-) So your loader when digging will definitely stress that part of the frame. Cheers, Gordy

I have the same tractorit's not necessary to do all the upgrades to that I have a loader on mine been on there for a couple years come on now it a ingersoll