Wrapping up the series, an overview of the loader's final details: Hydraulic hoses, detachable bucket, detachable forks, and footage of the loader in use.
Pretty cool to see the finished product at work. I love the additional modifications as well. A happy ending that had some pretty significant obstacles to overcome for you.
Great perseverance!! Great outcome!! And im completely positive that the Satisfaction you must of felt when it was finally done initially must have been great! And this particular series you put out made me a subscriber as i too hav something similar in the very beginning stages too! I recently aquired whats called a Toro sand pro 5040,its a 3 wheel hydraulic driven tractor that was originally put out by Toro for sand traps at golf course's with both front and rear hydraulic attachment options, basically looks like a 80's era honda 3 wheeler but looks like it was built by the same company that builds the armored presidential limo,"the beast"!!! Im talking alot of areas where 1/2" plate was used,buy its a perfect platform for a yard tractor/3 wheeled skid steer! Anyways ,very good job sir!
This build is almost exactly what I have been dreaming of building in a garden tractor based platform. having a mini SSQA style front bucket change, 3rd function, etc design. Well done good sir!
Don’t know if I’ll ever build a loader but I learned a lot of fabricating tips and tricks from you, so thanks for that. It seems you enjoy researching and solving problems and issues. I’m like that too. There is no lack of information on line these days so its much easier to expand your skills and make some cool stuff. Looking forward to more content.
This is the best engineered loader and tractor that I have seen. You have corrected shortcomings that the original engineers of the tractor missed out on. I agree that hard lines would be a better change however that would be way too much work. I wouldn't say it is over-engineered because it is something that I hope to do myself. I am in a quandary though. I am either going to use my Allis Chalmers B10 or my John Deere 110 or possibly a Case that I would have to find. After all your work what would your suggestion be? Thank you so much for sharing the build with us. Cutting your lawn is good. Cutting your phone is not so good.
Thanks for your nice compliment. I'm afraid I don't know enough about either of those machines to give you very good advice. My basic approach is to look for a strong enough front axle and frame, or one that can be easily upgraded/reinforced. And at least a factory option for a hydraulic pump. Even if the factory pump needed to be upgraded to a higher volume, you'd still at least have a predetermined location and mounting bracket and drive pulley for a hydro pump.
Great Build! I've enjoyed the journey and I hope that you get many useful years service out of it, just don't add AC, a drink cooler and a radio or else you'll never want to go back into the house, but seriously it's an amazing build, congratulations.
I would still put a rubber piece around the aluminum to protect the hoses any vibration will cause the hoses to wear through where ever it touch metal , an once of prevention is better than a pound of repairs.
You had better fill those rear tires with some heavy fluid ballast ... and be careful driving at an angle anywhere at all .Been a licensed hoisting engineer for 45 years .
Good point. I ended up with 125 lbs in each rear tire. And a 350 lb concrete counter weight hanging from the three-point hitch. Even so I carry the load as low as possible and exercise extra caution on any slope at all.
@@TheBuildist I am glad that your interpreted my previous comment as friendly suggestions and not a lecturing as well I hope you will regard this next one .🙂.I only saw the 3 point hitch at the end of the video , by them my comment was posted , so the axles are rated for the hitch weight carrying capacity and that is good. However ...on small machines like yours, or my 1997 Kubota B2100 loader backhoe which is a bit bigger than your tractor there is a greater benefit that comes from tire ballast more than it does from counterweight. The latter is not gentle at all on the hitch components either on rough terrains. As far as carrying the load in the front bucket , what applies to larger machines like a Case 780 for example, also applies to small machines when carrying a full bucket load . The bottom of the bucket should be no more an inch or two above the center of the front wheels axles. That prevents the tractor from broaching too steeply if it bounces forward for any reason at all , that keeps the frame from experiencing a center flex point not dissimilar from the Titanic mid ship break up ...could not resist the temptation of using that analogy🙂. Large loaders like the 780 mentioned are over built to prevent that from happening in the hands of a cowboy type operator , the smaller tractors are not , if enough force is applied they will snap, some dealers keep them visible for customers to ask how it happened 🤔. There is a new type of ballast fluid that is advertised as totally non corrosive, it is called Rim Guard, based on beet juice of all things 😀what is costs I have not yet found out . I am thinking about replacing my own concoction of automotive antifreeze ballast with it ...but it only weighs 1/2 pound per gallon more than antifreeze which also does not corrode rubber or steel unless turned acidic, so other than Toxicity if leaking the advantage is not much . Never used calcium unless using an inner tube it rots the rims but tubes have issues of their own .I have never had a problem with mine, 198 lbs in each rear tire , if I need to change it after my next acidity inspection I may likely use the totally non toxic glycol and call it a day , glycol usually does not turn acidic unless over heated in engine cooling systems but it is a good idea to sample it every few years. Kudos on your build ...you have excellent engineering and welding skills ...the end result are the evidence of it 👏👏 a mini loader that does not take up as much space, less in fact than a subcompact from any brand ...well done 👏! Good luck and have fun with your mighty 👍 mini 👍👍
@@jd70HJ19 Excellent points again. I went with glycol ("RV Antifreeze".) It may not be perfect, but it's safe and fast and cheap, and I think dense enough to do the trick. I think driving around with the concrete counterweight all the time wouldn't be great for the rear axle or bearings, (bushings) but I only mount it up when the front bucket is in use. So I think it's a decent approach. I'm actually working (slowly) right now on adding reinforcement to the rear axle. Because I've bought a little D100 backhoe and I intend to mount it in a quick-detach configuration. And while nothing is asked of the rear axle once the outriggers are down, driving around with that extra 1100 lbs cantilevered back there I think would be more than the axles are ready for. So I'm fabricating a heavy steel crossmember that will run underneath the rear diff and clamp to the outward-most collar/boss of the axles. The hoe will fork onto that crossmember, again as far outboard as possible. So the weight should transfer fairly directly down/out into the rear wheels without stressing the axle tubes themselves. I'm filming as I go, and I'll post it by and by. Thanks again for sharing your advice and expertise. Bob
