BUILDING A MILLER TABLE 

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@Henry Caspian instablaster =)

@Jordy Harlem i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

@Jordy Harlem it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thanks so much you saved my ass !

@Henry Caspian happy to help :)

+Prospector Ruby Thank you and thanks for watching. Building these are almost as much fun as finding the gold :-)

Thank you, and thanks for watching. It's a lot of fun to make your own equipment and it's easy to do. I have a new design I'm working on for a new miller table that really looks good. Stay tuned.

Thank you Eric and Thanks for watching. I'm afraid that I'm not much of a movie maker but I find that these are one of my all time most favorite tools. I find there are some tables out there that that have been made by people who don't understand how they work and I have hoped that this will clarify some things. I have made about 30 tables now over the past 4 years, testing different materials and ways to build them and this one is a fairly simple and very functional design. I made the side boards on this one a little fancier than they need to be but I have liked this design as it gives better access to the working part of the table and is easy to do with a jig saw or coping saw.

Hi Sergio. Thanks for watching and your very kind comments. Yes, your refinement would certainly make the water flow a lot smoother and make for easier recovery of the gold. That Nome beach sand is what got me working with Miller Tables. I built this model and then used it entirely for a season for processing all my dirt. I then spent years building and trying different designs until I developed the Deep Well series. It is my favorite so far. I now use what I call the Miller Sluice which is just like yours and has an 8 inch long deck and 1-1/2 feet of Silicone mat. I can run the water faster like in a sluice to process the dirt faster. The chalkboard paint will slow the gold down so it will be caught in the top of the mat. Then I can run the mat material again at a slower water flow to recover the gold. Thanks again for your comment . Larry

+dean castello Yippers, it takes pretty much a full can to do one of these. I used to use the brush on but even though I do a project each week I found that it got too thick on me before I could get through the whole can. But the Helmsman is good stuff and it dries very hard after about a week and is a tough finish. The Chalkboard paint dries to a very thin layer. I usually put 3 heavy coats of the chalkboard paint on and let it dry for 24 hours, sand the high spots down and then put on 3 more. Sand one more time and then put the final coat on. It takes the Chalkboard paint 3 days to cure to its final hardness. If you want to put a Hobbico mat on you can glue it on after the paint has cured. You can also just set the Hobbico mat in and try it if you want to see which you like best and then glue the mat in if you decide to go that route. Once you get your table going I'd like to hear how you like it. Good luck with it.

DozerRoyale Hi Dozer and thanks for watching. Aluminum is sure the best way to go if you can. I use solid pine on these and my new Deep Well design now which helps to cut down on the water wood problems. Home Depot carries a really good gas valve you can put in the water line to reduce the flow for that super fine gold. They also carry the hose barbs so you can connect water hose to it.

I have a screw-type (like a hose bib but inline) valve in my feed line and run a pump similar to yours in a tub system so I can use JetDry, works great. I saw your deep well video right after I left my comment. Brilliant! Heavy pans.

@@FreakyMalo Great! Sounds like you are all set to go. I think you will really love one of these as they make separating gold from the rest of the material very easy. Very best of luck on your build.

Hi Rainer and thank you for watching. Sorry to have taken so long to answer but I just got out of the hospital. If I may make a suggestion, my Deep well Miller Table is my latest design and would work much better for you. It’s very easy to make. You can find the video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ktDZzlkm0H8.html The very best of luck with your build.

Lol, thanks Wayne. I think if I was lucky enough to be that guy, I'd be off making cool RU-vid videos or something. :-) I live in such a noise polluted area that I have to get up at 4:00 AM to try to put on the sound track and try to get what little voice I have left to work at that time of day. :-)

Thank you.

+PasadenaDigger My pleasure. Thanks for watching.

+Anthony Bradley Thank you Anthony and thanks for watching. I'm not a great video maker but I'm trying :-)

+dean castello Thank you. if you build one one of these I think you will find it's one of the handiest tools you have. I have found gold in the most unlikely places with this. If you screen dirt down to -30 or -40 mesh and run on this I think you will be surprised at how much micron gold is in the dirt that is all around us. Small yes, but gold is gold.

Chuck Gentles Hi Chuck and thanks for watching. The main problem with using the shelving for this table was that if the gold vial hole didn't get waterproofed enough, water would soak in and cause the wood to swell so make sure to seal the inside of the hole and especially on the top and bottom where the water can seep under that thin layer of plastic very well. Alternatively you can use a piece of pine board for this or a plastic cutting board if you saw my video on that. Best of luck on your build.

Thank you Diane for watching. I think you will really enjoy one of these tables. If you use the melamine shelf like in this video, be sure to really seal with paint or Titebond III glue any places where there is a crack or seam in the plastic on the board so that water doesn't get under it. Or you can use a cutting board like in my other video.

+Corky H Hi Corky, thanks for watching. Yes the chalk board paint works very well. Almost as well as the Hobbico mat. Yes, the spar varnish is really tough. My sluices look brand new even after a year of heavy use with all the sand running through them.

Hi Stephen, thanks for watching. You're right, it really is quite easy to build. If you want, you can just buy a 1x3 to make the end board and sides and a melamine shelf for the base. One thing to note, the Melamine has a thin layer of plastic on it and the edges are glued together at the corners and water can leak in through those edges. Be sure to coat the whole board with 4 coats of the Rustoleum Bonding Primer and then coat the whole board with at least 6 coats of Rustoleum Chalkboard paint. Also if you make a gold vial hole, I use Titebond 3 waterproof glue on a Qtip to paint on all the exposed wood surfaces where you drill holes and particularly where the raw wood and plastic meet. My cutting board miller table doesn't have the waterproofing problems if that's easier. I am also going to be releasing another type of Miller Table build here in a few weeks. Give it a try and good luck. If any questions, just ask.

Tony Nagel Hi Tony. Thank you for watching and I hope if you build one that it will work well for you.

soap on a rope Congratulations and I hope it works well for you. Thanks for watching.

Thank you. Years ago I used the marine plywood for one of my first ones but after awhile I had problems with it warping slightly which doesn't work well for these. I try to keep the costs down on these for folks who are on a limited budget and the marine plywood here is quite expensive. I have recently been trying regular plywood on some of my sluice bottoms and even though they are well waterproofed they have all cracked and buckled. Just unlucky I guess. :-) I have built about 30 of these trying different materials and I keep coming back to the melamine board because it is so stable if you don't get it wet. With the waterproofing I do now on them I haven't had any problems and they have been holding up well. Thanks for stopping by.

Hi Oaks Trails. Thanks for stopping by. I think it will. If you saw my video on the Deep Well Miller Table, It is basically the same as this one except with a much smoother water flow for that very fine gold. I am currently running sand from the Washington Black sand beaches, Lake Michigan black sand and Nome Beach Black sand. This material has been screened through a 100 mesh screen and some will go through a 125 mesh. With my 10x magnifier glasses, I can see some that is smaller that I can also collect. You will need a small pump for this, I use a Harbor Freight 264 GPH pump which is way overkill but it has a better dirt filter than the smaller ones. Plus it has reducers so you can use different size tubing. Home Depot has a very good gas line valve and hose connectors that you can put in the middle of the hose to reduce the water flow to the bare trickle it needs. If you put the valve up on the input of the Miller Table it will pressurize the water like when you put your thumb over the end of a garden hose to make a spray to water the lawn and cause turbulence that is bad for the very fine gold. By putting the valve in the middle of the hose or at the pump, the turbulence is settled down before it gets to the table and you have a very nice even flow. Best of luck if you build. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

@@utahavalanch Thanks for your comments & advice. Your craftsmanship is impeccable. I have almost finished mine. Just need to install the vile lid in the table. I have put two drop fiddles in mine. I william that in muy video. Not a good videographer. But here is my link... Thanks again!!!👊😎👊😎 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7aWY4dUZ_nk.html

Thank you Robert for watching and your comment. The lid is glued tightly to the bottom of the bottle hole and a hole is drilled through the top of it so the gold can drop straight into the bottle. There is no possible way for the gold to get into the threads as the lid completely covers the threads.

Sounds good. Thank you.

Thank you James and thanks for taking the time to watch.

Thanks for watching.👍

Hi Jt. No I haven't as that material is not available around here but it should work well if you can get the chalkboard paint to stick. The Bonding primer I show in the video should work for that. It's the only paint I have found that will bond well to plastics . I have tried thin plastics and cutting boards that work well for awhile but they will warp slightly over time so you need to mount them to a solid surface. I have tried to find materials to build these out of that is inexpensive and readily available to the majority of people and the melamine board seems to fit the bill. Thanks for watching.

tribulationcoming Thank you and thanks for watching.

1000 Hi 1000 and thanks for watching. I usually set the table to about 1-1/2 degrees. Then I sprinkle some black sand on the table and raise the back elevation knob slowly until the black sand starts moving down the table. This usually turns out to be about 3.5 degrees. The Deep Well Miller Table is really a sweet machine. You should build one and give it a try. They really aren't that hard as there is only about 5 parts to it. You can make a small one with a piece of 1x8 pine and a piece of 1x3 pine for the header board and side rail's. I'm putting another video together showing people how to build them.

@@utahavalanch Thank you for your valueable reply! And yes, i am building one of the tables. My only delay is to find a reasonable source for the paint you use over here in Europe. 'Also im pondering to make a second one with silicone paint. Amongst other material i have to deal with what basically looks like that obnoxious beach sand you showed in your videos. Loads of super heavy black sands with true flour gold hidden within. And i must say your deep well miller table definatly looks like *the* solution to all my clean up problems. And for the field im building a sluice with silicone mats (yes, we both watch the same channel ;o)) just to reduce the material but not clean it. This will be my winter prospecting work untill i can enter the mountains again come spring. Where we have coarse gold up to hazelnut sized nuggets. Thank you again for your videos and please give a hello to your grandkid. Its a grande kid indeed!

1000 I don't know if you have any Walmart, Home Depot or Lowe's stores where you live but they all carry the paint as well as most paint stores. You can also buy it on EBay. It's Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint. I have found that some mat finish paints work a bit although not quite as well. I spent 10 years trying to find something that would work well on that black beach sand and the Deep Well is the best I have come up with so far. It does a great job. The combination sluice, is nice as the mat catches any runaway pieces so you don't have to run all the tailings again. I think you will really like the Silicone mats. The deeper drop Riffle design works very well on the bigger sluices. I will certainly tell my grandson high for you and the best of luck on your build and Prospecting. I'd like to hear how it all works out for you.

@@utahavalanch Thank you again for your input! Regarding the paint i can order it on amazon but only in blue. So thats the hold up. The one in the videos was green and i dont want to get different results due to some other kind of pigment or something. And yes, im very much looking forward to give the silicone mats a first run. I also very much like the idea of the combination sluice. I like how thought trhough all your designs are yet so easily to replicate. You realy need next to nothing and once you got one all set up as a system (pump, tubs etc) you can very cheaply and easily replace the table itself with various designs/materials you would like to give a try. *AND* they look gergeous too! So thanks for all the encourengment and i try to keep you in the loop how it all worked out in the end.

@@1000-r3g The gold catching properties is the same on all the colors. If you can find the Chalkboard paint in the pint can, that you brush on, that is the best. This is a can of green on Ebay that is pre-mixed. www.ebay.com/itm/Chalkboard-Paint-Green-Rust-Oleum-Specialty-Writable-Erasable-Latex-Paints/312834294297?hash=item48d6608219:g:AgMAAOSwCd9dwqvp What you get in the paint store is a can of white base and then they add the color that you want. The spray will work also. Be sure to put about 6 coats on. My system has evolved down from a large recirculating system with a 4 foot 10" wide sluice to the 10 gallon tote size I'm using now. I like it because I can switch out several different sluices with a Miller Table and it is portable to take out exploring on the road. I set it up on the stream bank to run rather than in the stream as I have the pump calibrated to just the right flow to catch all the gold. For Urban prospecting it is ideal because I can run the material on the spot and dump the dirt right back where I got it and only take home the gold.

+Dean Woolman Hi Dean and thanks for watching. Angle and flow are very important with a miller table. You need just a very thin layer of water only about 1/16" - 1/8"deep and a slow adjustable flow of water. I use a 200 GPH pump with a valve down near the pump. I usually start out at an angle of about 2 - 3 degrees. and reduce the flow of my pump to about 100 GPH. I then sprinkle a little black sand on the table and if it doesn't move down the table, I increase the water flow until it just starts moving down. At this point any gold that is the same size or larger will stick to the table. If you are expecting larger gold you can increase the flow and recover that rather quickly. I then screen the tailings to -30 mesh and run again at a much reduced water level again using the black sand as a flow meter. Then I screen the tailings again to -100 mesh and reduce the table to almost flat and drop the water flow back some more. You may be surprised at how much gold you get from the 2 additional runs. If you run your black sands at this level you may be quite surprised to see how much very small gold will drop out of the black sands. Hope this is of some help.

Thank you Lou. Much appreciated. I don't know if you saw my video on the Deep Well Miller Table, but if you have the capability that is the one to build. That one works better than anything I have ever used. It's really quite easy to make and if you don't have a saw to cut the angle on the top board you can still make it by using a wood rasp. little more work but I think it's worth it.

thank you so mutch and i will check that vid..and am off prospecting today,,good day to you

Lou Simoneau The very best of luck to you.

Hi Eric. I wasn't real crazy about the texture either. It won't make a lot of difference to leave it that way but I like it a little smoother myself. I usually put 3 coats of the chalkboard paint on, let it dry and then lightly sand the tops of the high spots off with some 150 grit sandpaper. I then put on 3 more coats and sand again. On the final coat I thin the paint down a little with a little water so it will spread without leaving a texture and let it dry. Be sure you seal all the edged where there are cracks in the plastic very well with multiple coats of paint and if you put in a gold vial hole, that is where most people are having problems. You really have to seal that very well. I spread Titebond III glue down inside it and then spray it with the bonding primer and then give it a good coat of spar varnish. It seems that folks who don't put in the gold vial hole have better luck with the water not seeping into the wood. Enjoy your table.

I thank you kindly sir. Have a Merry Christmas

Yippers, you sure can. Good stuff.

+MrLodak Thank you J and thanks for watching. I think these are my favorite prospecting tool.

Hi Rzlto and thank you for watching. I cut grooves in the side rails so that the water bar could slide out. The easiest thing would be to put 2 quarters stacked on top of each other and put them where you want the water bar to sit on either side of the sluice. Then you can glue the water bar in with Superglue. You can also cut the water bar so it fits tightly so you can slide it up and down. I also have glued matchsticks to the side rails as guides so the water bar can slide up and down and then put a screw in the bottom of the water bar on both ends so they hold it up off the deck. That way you can adjust the screws to adjust the space underneath the water bar.

Mountain Views Thank you for watching.

You are welcome and thank you for watching.

@@utahavalanch Thank you too

@@utahavalanch Many people come for panning in my river bank.. I have my late father's land and river

@@tuanzul7626 I hope you are able to get some equipment and get some of it. I have several videos of easy to build equipment that can get you started.

Les smith Hi Les and thanks for watching. If you haven't already, you may want to check out my Deep Well series of Miller Tables and sluice combinations. The Deep Well Tables work much better than this series of Table and it's not very hard to build. But this table will work very well for you. It will catch down to -100 gold easily. I have been running my Deep Well Miller/Sluice for about 6 months now and so far I haven't found a piece of gold in the tailings.

shaun schollaert Hi Shaun, yes I do. Chalkboard paint has a texture that gold likes to stick too for some reason Helmsman spar varnish is another one that works well but the gold is hard to see unless There is a darker color painted underneath it. Thanks for watching.

Hi Albert, Thank you and thanks for stopping by. You can certainly give it a try and see how it works for you. My initial thoughts are that it may be a little rough and that the material won't slide down it easily. But the idea with these projects is to try your ideas out and see how they work. Usually a smoother surface helps the sand and the black sand slide on down the table and the gold being heavier will just stay in place. I tried a shelf mat material a couple of years back that didn't work quite like I would have liked and so I ended up painting it with chalkboard paint and it worked very well after that. So give it a try and see how it works. If not, then you can always paint it.

Well thanks and thanks for watching Gold Hunter. Yippers just send me a gram from every ounce you find after the first one and we'll be good LOL. I think you will find one of these will be a very handy item in your prospecting. I used my first one for 6 months after a surgery when I couldn't get out and sluice and I think I found more gold with just the miller table.

+dean castello Hi Dean, I don't see why not. From my experience with it, you can use the primer to waterproof the whole table. It dries pretty thin so I usually put down about 4 - 6 coats to make sure it is sealed well. This is about the only paint I have found that sticks well to the melamine surface. The only drawback I can see for the base would be seeing the very fine gold against the white background. That's why I like the Chalkboard paint. Plus the Chalkboard paint has a little better surface that the gold likes to stick to. The most important thing with these tables is controlling the water flow and angle so you don't wash the very fine gold away. One of the small Harbor Freight 200 or 264 GPH pumps with a valve on the hose works very well for a water supply. If I can help further just let me know.

Dean Mayer Hi Dean. Thank you and thanks for watching. I usually put a thin later of epoxy putty in the bottom of the hole and then set the lid into it. Then I clean the epoxy from the hole in the lid. You could probably use super glue as well.

@@utahavalanch I am working with material I have at home so I am using a tin tray that went in a chicken coop but was never used. So, I can't fasten my gold collector top like you did. The metal is thin so I guess I will have to glue the top to the bottom of the tin. I painted the top of rhe tin with gray primer which seems to be the same texture as chalk board paint. It's probably 24 inches wide and 30 inches long. Not sure if it will work or not. I haven't tried it yet. My pump is too strong for it. I wish I could attach a picture of it to show you.

Dean Mayer Hi Dean, medical problems slowing me down. You can just paint your metal with the Rustoleum Chalkboard paint and that will work fine. To slow the water flow, you can put a small valve in your water line to reduce the water flow. If you have a 1/2" or 3/4" hose, you can use a garden hose valve that's cheap.

@@utahavalanch thanks so much. Right now I have it painted with rustoleum primer. Everything is ready to go but I haven't tried it yet due to medical problems from cancer. If it doesn't work I will get the chalkboard paint.

Dean Mayer Very sorry to hear about your illness. Kind of puts us in the same boat. I'm running on 1/2 a heart and trying to keep it going a little longer and having no a hard time of it. Yep, you can try the primer. If it's a matt finish that will help. The Chalkboard paint is one that gold especially likes to stick to. I'm currently making a sluice that has 2 matts separated by a board with Chalkboard paint on it to slow any gold that makes it out of the 1st mat so that it will be sure to drop in the second mat. An unusual design.

Yippers, beats out a Bud Light anytime.😁

Hi Ralf, greetings and welcome from America and thanks for stopping by. The green is Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint. Gold seems to like to stick to it and so it makes a great topping for Miller Tables. Myself and another RU-vidr have run tests on a number of different materials to try to find what gold sticks to the best and this is it. I have a new sluice I'm currently working on that uses it in a little different way. You might want to check back and check it out.

Thank you so much. I‘ll try it. Best regards and pans full of gold for you.

Hi Jucier. Thank you and thank you for watching.

@@utahavalanchpra vc ver o quando teu video veio para longe, sou do Brasil de juazeiro do norte ceará. valeu pelo video obrigado

@@jucierpereira3216 I thank you very much my friend for taking the time to watch.👍

Hi Christine. Are you referring to the boards on the tote that adjust the tilt on the table or the board on the table that adjusts the elevation?

frederick bierweiler Thank you and thanks for watching.

XplaneZ A good question. These work much better, faster and are fairly inexpensive to build. Thank you for watching.

Hi Steven. I’ll see if I can find a picture of it. It’s the middle of winter here and I have all my sluicing equipment put away. The bottom of the bilge pump where the screen is, has to be under water. The easy thing to do is to put the whole pump under water. They are designed to be run under water.

I sent you an Email.

Thank you and thanks for watching.

Hi and thanks for watching. No, I use a small roller that leaves a slightly textured surface that is the same no matter which way you roll. Some folks like to use a brush and brush lines across the flow to catch the gold in the slight ridges but I find that they also catch the black sands you are trying to eliminate. I usually apply 3 coats of paint letting each coat dry in between and then lightly sand it to eliminate some of the texture and then apply 3 more coats. You want the surface to be quite smooth so that the black sands just slide right off leaving the gold. If your material is all screened to the same size, you just adjust the water flow until the black sands start moving down the table and the gold being heavier will stay where it's dropped.

Great video. This will be my next project when I get my new job...ty for the advice.

Thank you. I think you will really like one of these. It has become one of my most used tools.

btw, after you applied the green coats, did you use a fine fine fine sand paper to smooth it flat?

I normally don't sand the final coat as it removes the slight tooth that the Chalkboard paint has that makes it hold the gold so well. However you can try it and if it doesn't work as well you can always give it another coat and not sand it. I generally give mine a maintenance coat about once a year at the end of the season as the sand will wear it down after awhile. You can just mask off the side boards and water bar board with painters tape and give it another coat.

Thank you Don. I appreciate your stopping by.

Hi and thanks for watching. I’m afraid I don’t have the resources to do that so I make videos to show folks who are interested in these how they can build them. I developed a newer version that has much smoother water flow and I also made a video on how to make it. Here is the introduction video if you are interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-btG2CFtePrw.html

Deviant Purv Hi and thanks for watching. It's hard to tell without seeing the size of the material. However much of the material I work with all the time is in the 100 to -150 mesh and it captures it quite well. For reference, 200 mesh is the smallest visible with the naked eye. If you watch my latest video on the Deep Well Sluice with Silicone Mat, toward the end of the video I run some Cape Disappointment beach sand that is in the -150 mesh range. That is the smallest gold that I have been able to find so far. If I remember right, I also run it on my Deep Well Miller Table video. This table has the same Chalkboard paint on the deck that they do and it will catch that very fine gold. Hope this helps.

@@utahavalanch if you have gold bond foot powder at home or baby powder, pour some into your hand. That is the size particle im working with. "Baby powder fine particles"

@@deviant_purv I think that you may have to resort to chemical means in order to capture that. I don't get into that myself due to it can be hazardous to the health and I have too many health problems now. :-D Mercury is the main one that comes to mind if you get a retort to recapture the mercury. Melting may work as well if you can get enough of it to try. That is something I'm starting to experiment with.

+dean castello On my tables I dado the sides so that the water bar can slide up and down to adjust the height. I usually make it a fairly tight fit so it stays where I put it. Some folks just cut a board so it's a tight fit and wedge it in. For course gold, (+20 and larger) I set the height at 1/8". I put a stack of 2 quarters underneath both ends and push the bar down till it rests on the 2 stacks to get the 1/8" height. With a 200 GPH pump reduce the water flow to about 80%. With gold on the table, you can adjust the water flow until it just starts to move and then reduce the flow a little bit.Table angle at 3 degrees. For minus 30 mesh and smaller material I set the space under the water bar to 1/16" or 1 quarter. Reduce the water flow to about 50% with the table angle at about 2 degrees. In both cases I reduce the water flow way back and then put some black sand on the table that has been screened to the size material that I am running. Then slowly increase the water flow until the black sand starts moving down the table. That should give you a good starting point. If your gold starts moving down he table then reduce the water flow until it stays where you drop it. I usually screen to 3 different sizes and run each separately. 1 run for the -8 mesh. 1 run for the -20 and 1 run for the -30. You can screen down to even finer if you want. They say 80% of the gold is in the -100 range. I know there is a lot more down at those sizes than there is in the larger sizes. In all cases, spread the sand out across the table and take a nylon basting brush and spread the sand out so the gold makes contact with the table. The gold can ride down the table on top of the lighter sands. If it makes contact with the table it will stay. Hope this helps.

Hi Michael. Typically I find that 3 degrees is a good starting point if you are working with about 20 mesh gold and smaller. Yes, I strongly suggest you put a valve on it so that you can adjust the water flow for the different sizes of gold. If you are working with 30 mesh and smaller gold, you will really need it. I see people on RU-vid all the time losing half their gold due to the water flow being too fast. If you saw my video "New Miller Table Introduction" I show a little better close up of my pump, valve and hose set up. Home Depot has a really good gas valve that is very smooth in it's operation and it's a 1/4 turn to full off and on. They also sell nylon 1/2" and 3/4" hose barb to MIP connectors depending on the size hose you use for connecting the hose to the valve. The cheap garden hose valves only last a short time till they start leaking. Also it's best to put the valve so there is about 6" to a foot of hose after the valve as the valve will pressurize the water when you turn it down like when you put your thumb over a garden hose to make it spray. This will cause turbulence which isn't good for fine gold. The hose length after the valve will smooth this turbulence out. I hope this helps.

@@utahavalanchThanks again for your advice on this, I have a nice pile of black sand to do.

@@utahavalanchWhat color is best used green, blue or?

@@MichaelJohnson-ux7pe You're welcome. Glad to help if I can. I think that next to the gold pan, these are by far the best when it comes to separating black sand from gold. But with the gold pan you need a lot of practice. :-D

@@MichaelJohnson-ux7pe I used to like the green but after trying the Teal color I have since changed to it. It is a very relaxing color and you can spend hours on the table without eye strain. The Teal color is a combination of green and blue so with it you get the best of both colors. I used it on my Silicone Mat Sluice video if you want to see what it looks like.

Thank you and thanks for watching.

Hi David and thanks for stopping by. You can use a 2" paint brush if you would like but I like to use a 3 inch paint roller.You can buy a 3 in roller and pan in a kit at any Home Depot or lowes. I think the roller gives a smoother more even coat of paint.

+Fais Fadhilla Hi Fais, yes. Sand the wood sides and back plate and spray them with Spar Varnish. Then Give the Table part about 5 or 6 coats of Chalk Board paint. Good Luck and thanks for watching.

Thank you and thanks for watching.

J.R.Bulli -Goldwasch und DIY Channel Thank you J.R. and thanks for watching. Wait till you see my new one.

Thank you Braden. Thanks for watching. I have a video coming out on a new one here in the next day or so if you are interested.

I've been looking into buying royals table but after seeing this I'm going to build my own and save hundreds

You might as well give it a try. It's not that hard to build your own and it's certainly a lot cheaper even if it takes you a couple of tries. You might check out my cutting board miller table as well. It's very easy to build and works as well as any of the commercial tables. The main thing on these is to really waterproof the base board well. Especially the gold vial hole. That's where the water gets in on this model and will cause the wood to swell. The cutting board version doesn't have that problem. Best of luck.

Ive been a carpenter by trade for close to 30 yrs so after seeing your video looks like a piece of cake I've thought about building one for some time just never knew what to use to make the gold stick to the table

If you are a carpenter, then you will really love my new one and you would be able to make it easily. It beats anything currently on the market by far. It's a whole new design unlike anything I've seen so far. My grandson and I have been using this and the sluices with the same design for a year now and I don't think I'll ever go back to the traditional style. I'm hoping to get the introduction video out later tonight and the build video in a day or two.

Hi 0

Oops. Hi powder and thanks for watching. Yes, I find that about3-4 degrees works best. Then follow the directions in your other comment. These are great tools for catching gold.

Hi and thanks for watching. I usually make mine about 10” in width and 20” in length.

@@utahavalanch Thanks for the information I have recently purchased a plastic chilling board like the one in your video I'm hoping somthing good will come if it I usually find small specks on the beach in the Black sands and I think this will be more helpful than a sluice thanks for your help in the video 👍

@@PatringtonPirateProductions Yes, a Miller Table works by far the best for the fine gold. Especially the beach sand gold.

Daniel Clarke Thanks Daniel. Boy do I wish. I'd love to sound like that. Thanks for watching.

danke und danke fürs zuschauen

Thank you and thanks for watching.

JOHN PETRELLA Hi John, yep, that works good. All you can buy in my area in the Chalkboard spray is black and it's too hard for me to see the black sand with that. With the canned version, you have about 12 colors they can mix it in.

William Coley If you will notice, i have a video using a cutting board. I still much prefer the solid wood boards like my Deep Well Miller Table. The hanks for watching.

I hope you will be able to get some of it.

@@utahavalanch Thank you so much sir

+Dave Larson Hi Dave, Thanks for watching. Sorry, I don't. There are several commercial versions that you can buy just like it. The Martin miller table is one I like best. You can easily build one of these tables using off the shelf materials, a handsaw and a drill with 2 bits, 4 if you put in a gold bottle but it's not necessary. Some folks find it's easier to leave out the gold bottle and just use a snuffer bottle to suck up the gold. A cheap shelf a 1x3 and some 1/2" PVC tubing and fittings and the waterproofing materials in the video and you are good to go. You can buy all the materials at your local Home Depot or Lowes. If you have any questions I can answer for you, just let me know.

ok thanks for the info

Hi Russ, thank you and I hope you like these tables. Be sure to coat the whole baseboard in 2 or 3 coats of the Bonding primer and then give the whole board about 4 or 5 good coats of the Chalkboard paint as there are fine joints in the plastic that is on top of the board that will let the water seep into the core of the board and cause it to swell. Also coat the inside of the gold vial tube and the hole you drill for the cap for the gold vial with Titebond III waterproof glue applied with a Q tip. Then give it a coat of the primer like in the video. it will give a nice hard waterproof surface to the wood.The vial hole is the weak point of the table and needs to be well waterproofed. I have a new Miller Table design that you may be interested in as well that is a lot more robust and has a smoother water flow and I'm trying to get a video out on it as soon as I can. We are using it in my Urban Prospecting video and you can get a look at it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zCgae59GNZQ.html I have tried just about everything on the market for recovering fine gold over the years and the Miller Table is what I have found to be the best tool for the job. if you have any questions just let me know. Very best of luck.

Now you know where to come when you can't sleep :-) Thanks for coming by for a snooze