Stage 1 of making this Nissan Micra / March into a fun budget race/track car. Support the channel: ejoautovideos.... Enter code EJO10 for 10% discount. Find your coilovers at: www.j-spec.se/
If you can get Nissan Cube Alpha "TA-AZ10" parts, better get cams, pistons and gaskets.The Nissan Cube is a Japanese-only model based on the K11 Micra. The standard CGA3DE type engine is also 85ps, but, Cube Alpha has a horsepower of 101ps with standard specifications. It was our standard to use Cube Alpha cams, gaskets, pistons, and exhaust manifolds to increase output when playing with K11 Micra modified in Japan.
Refreshing to see a non-typical car build! Really stands out from the crowd, and youve got this micra looking gorgeous especially compared to its condition when you found it 👍
Thank you so much for your comment, I really appreciate that. 🙏 Yes, I totally agree! I think it's fun to do a bit of a different project that is also relatable to a big audience. 👍
Watching this, I really get melancholic. Because it reminds me on my MB W124 200D with the OM601 engine. I put a lot of work in the car and also emotions. There is nothing more satisfying than replace old parts with brand new ones, give the car a full detailing and then cruise around in the evening when the streets are empty. I sold the old MB three years ago. Keep going man, I love watching your videos and also the way you are learning and trying new things. This is what all the fascination is about! Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 to Sverige 🇸🇪
This just came up in my recommendations. And wow. This is exactly the stuff I want to watch. It's different.. its custom.. its achievable.. definitely looking forward to your future work👍🏻 subscribed
Thank you! I really think you should, these cars are easy to work on, parts are for the most part cheap and there is pleanty of information on these cars on the internet. So they are the perfect cars to learn on. 👍
Love this 3door k11. Such nice little car. Strong engine and transmission. If your model have AC that would be awesome. Hope to see you on the road soon in Stockholm. 👍 Great video.
Watched all the episodes in the last few days. Well done, this is a great series. Love the transformation from something that could have been scrapped so easily. It’s getting a new life now. And this is something anyone with an interest in cars can attempt, my favourite kind of videos. Looking forward to more of these 👍
I adore 3 ring coilovers, a bit of blue loctite and they never loosen the adjustment ring. I'd love to see you buy a camber gauge and do a string method alignment z maybe even corner weight. Don't forget that add your weight in the driver seat, perfect alignment every time.
This will probably be controversial, but here goes. You're actually supposed to set the ride height using the spring pre-load as well. The adjustment using the threads on the coilover body itself is for setting the bump travel of the shock absorber in the coilover. Basically, you need to have the plunger for the shock-absorber centred in the coilover when the car is at rest, so it has equal amounts of room to move up and down as the suspension compresses and droops. You won't affect the stiffness of the springs by pre-loading them, because they have a linear spring rate, meaning, they require the same force to compress them further whether they have a lot of pre-load, or only a very little bit. Obviously you have to leave enough room for the coils to compress together without the spring locking up, but other than that you should be fine. Setting the ride height is a balancing act between the two adjustments. If you look at reaaaally expensive coilovers like KW or Ohlins, they actually don't have adjustable bottom mounts because they don't want you messing up their carefully calculated bump travel.
Being that your Coilovers are brand new and quite expensive, it would be a good idea to install some winter boots over the struts to keep them from seizing and rusting in the winter. Will also keep them from being constantly covered in brake dust.
I do like your video-choices - everybody can relate to your work, because the cars are cheap and the videos super informative, which means that everybody can participate. Thank you very much for that. My favourite channel.
Now might be a bit late, but instead of buying race pads and normal discs, i would highly recommend doing a brake upgrade, using Sunny N14, Almera N15 or 100NX calipers. You gain a bit of surface area, and most importantly, vented discs. And parts are still plentiful and cheap!
This Little pretty car is perfect now! In my opinion, you should really paint the rocker panels black, it matches the bottom of the front bumper and it really highlights the side of the car.
Needs some more low in the rear, and maybe a little camber in the front. Looks absolutely stellar. Would love to see you pick up another RWD Volvo to turn into a drift car!
You don’t have to have the ride height the same on each side of the car. Especially if you end up corner weighting the car. If so you would adjust the ride height to balance the car across the axles. And there could be a few mms difference.
Preload is a perfectly fine way of adjusting ride height and usually the only way on most low-mid tier struts. It only affects performance when you have a progressive multi-adjustable damper. The spring rate is set, it doesn't care if it's preloaded. What you're looking for with preload is to use the stroke of the damper as efficiently as possible. IE the manufacture, if a good one, has probably considered this, and thus the best preload is to simply fully seat the spring at full sag.
Äntligen en äkta Pizza-Racer. Bästa bilen att bygga en tålig bil av, om de har klarat att leverera pizzor sen de var nya så är de i stort sett oförstörbara.
You adjust the height from the spring and your bump stop height from the base of the coilover. You only need pre load to stop the spring from bouncing around.
PU still hard enough to crack the subframe. I would suggest a harder grade of rubber, but still allowing some movement and vibration dampening characteristics, that the PU doesn't have. Also, a TIP: Use wd40 on the rusted bolts "before" attempting to remove them. Spray it some 5 minutes before removing them, to let it penetrate the metal. With that level or rust, you are looking to torch, solder and do some crazy stuff to remove stuck bits without attempting it first.
Riktigt läcker! Har kollat dina rekondfilmer tidigare och snubblade över micran nu. Kul serie! Köpte NÄSTAN en likadan för något år sedan. Vill minnas att en billig uppgradering är att byta till en större luftburk från Nissan Almera (N15kr). Skall bli kul att se resten!
Kul o se fler svenskar som uppskattar micra! Vi har kört 24h skrotbilsrace med en k11 och 2 uppsättningar såna belägg! Ä nog den bästa bilen man kan köpa för inga pengar alls!
Kul att höra att någon annan också har testat att racea en Micra. Har hört andra som också sagt att de är väldigt driftsäkra, en av anledningarna till att jag valde den. 👍
Kan inte annat än hålla med, fanns att köpa färdigt från England men nu vart det ca halva priset. Men som du säger är det framför allt coolast att kunna känna att man har gjort det själv! 👍😎
Tillfredställande! Det tycker jag sammanfattar dina videos. Jag skulle kunna se när du skottar snö och ändå tycka det var intressant. En fröjd att se på! Micran har attityd nu! :)
Really like the video, love how the Micra is looking now, have a K10 myself but I have to say bcracing is definitely not a budget option so I'm calling that a clockbait 😃. Keep up the good work, gonna be subscribing and following the progress
High end coils are twice or thrice the price of BC so it definitely is a budget option. Stuff like maxpeeedingrods is just throwing money away, so while they're cheap that still makes them an horrible budget option as eventually you're gonna want to replace them after your disappointed, or be forced to replace them after the shocks leak all their oil, and end up spending the money twice. There are cheaper good options like if it's a Euro car, AP suspension is less than 700€. There also is mts technik. So there are exceptions but in general if you're gonna spend less than 600-700€, forget about coilovers. Anything you'll find for less is gonna be disappointing and won't last. At those price point a good set of shocks and lowering/sport springs will actually handle and ride better. Overall much better unless you're just a stance guy wanting to get low.
the bolts on the shock absorber that are holding the brake disk assebly should be mounted the other way around so that if the nut unscrews itself the bolt stays in place thanks to the g force, even though it never happens expecially if the bolts and nuts are rusty and well stuck together you never know if you race this thing what could happen
Ser riktigt bra ut! Ska bli kul att följa! Du skulle satt den andra bussningen med en vänstergäng också bara på ditt panhardstag så behöver du inte lossa bulten för att justera axelns förskjutning :)
Cheap turbo build next? xD, you have to get a good interior in one of those aswell, maybe some period correct Nissan bucket seats would be cool, but keep up the good work I really like how it turned out :)
Haven't decided on a turbo yet. If I fit one then it's bye bye with reliability and also it's not so budget anymore. The plan with it was to make it about the handling and to keep it relatively budget and reliable. So I'll probably do some light NA tuning first, I've heard from other Micra owners that some breathing mods can make a big difference. 👍 Also I will fit a short-ratio gearbox, I think that will make a huge difference. 👌
@@ejoautovideos yes calipers and carriers. Also i suggest some strutbraces because the micra is made of tincan material and strut braces will tighten it up :)
widzę że masz sprzet ) jest sprzęt to jest czym / coś zacząć robić, a propo micry miałem taką i powiem że ta Micra to jeszcze w pełni japońska mysl techniczna , czyli długa sprężyna z dużą iloscią zwojów i można cos cięższego przewieść bo ma się na czym uginać i bardzo dobrze wpływa na prowadzenie, myślę że po założeniu gwintu jest super Pozdrawiam
Brings back lots of memories for me as the K11 was the first car I had and the first one I modified! I used Leda coilovers which were expensive but totally worth it. Mine was a Silver K11 too! Is yours a Celebration model? Best of luck with the build, I'll be following along from Scotland.
Nice! Yes it's the perfect first car. I don't know if it's a celebration model or anything special. I just wanted a K11 Micra with the 1.4 👍 Thank you so much for stopping by and leaving a comment. 🙂
Tjenare! Vart får man bäst tag på följande till en nissan micra k11 c 5 dörrars från -98 : Stötfångare fram/bak Isofix (viktigast). Bösta sidan för oss svenskar med micra ?
love things like this. But even if its a budget build I would definitly go with a small car that has more than 100hp atleast. You dont need alot of hp like you said but you for sure need atleast some power ahaha. Bet the suspension alone cost double what the car cost.
Never paint brake discs or the mounting face underneath. The paint will get lose over time, pressure and heat and will compress and or go out at some point. Then there is a slight gap between the mounting faces cause of the missing layer of paint which might lead to you losing a wheel. Just not worth it really, get the mounting faces nice and flat and you're all good
@@ejoautovideos Jaha, där ser man. Då fick man lära sig något nytt även idag 👍 Vår Micra hade inte abs, den var väldigt simpel, så då måste någon ägare innan oss bytt trumbromsarna till skivbromsar. Detta måste jag börja forska lite i 😂
Inte varje dag man ser någon som lägger tid och pengar på att modda gamla Micror. Kanske inte skulle vara mitt eget val, men kul att se något mer udda! :)
Awesome work! Video is pure pleasure to watch. But about brake job, you did almost everything wrong. Surface that meets with brake disk can only be lubed by thin coat of dry lube or motor oil. With grease like you used it will be matter of time when your brake disc start to rotate and hit against bolts in wheel hub. Second thing, pins in brake calipers should always by dry!!! With lube applied there is no return drag. ATE systems are arround for at least 30 years maybe its time to figure out how it should work :d
Kul val av bil. Den kommer ligga bra i kurvorna. Nu längtar man redan till nästa uppgradering. Skall du sätta på några snygga dekaler också? Det kan ju bli asball
