Every one of the videos of you building frames shows the process becoming more efficient. Reminds me of the story of the king who told the painter to paint him a perfect rooster. 20 years later he comes back with the painting. The king is so impressed he tells him to paint another one for his wife. The painter takes out his supplies and in two minutes paints another perfect rooster. The king, angry now, asks why it took him so long to paint the first one. The painter replies “Your Highness, it takes me two minutes to paint the perfect rooster. It took me 20 years to learn to paint the perfect rooster.” Thanks for making these videos so it won’t take the rest of us quite so long.
Another good insight into your build process, Dan. As part of the comparison of the time taken to fair a frame by CNC vs traditional methods, I guess you have to include time spent writing the electronic files for the machine to use. However, even if the total man hours turn out to be similar, the fact that you can have the machine fair a frame while you get on with other stuff makes it a winner. The accuracy of the bevelling is also a bonus!
That’s very true, the benefit of the CAD work of course is that it doesn’t have to be done again if you repeat the build. I might try and do a more accurate break down of time estimates actually for both manual and CNC methods. It would be interesting to cover the two angles and see everything involved in each method.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Repeating the build is obviously a possibility for you as a professional builder. With the machinery and processes you are developing, you could produce almost identical hulls, something previously almost impossible with conventional timber construction.
@@DanLeeBoatbuildinga tricky but fun and beautiful part of trying to calculate how much time all the CAD/CAM files took you to create, vs. how much time it saves, is that a big part of the value you’re generating with those files is not the time it will save you, but the time it will save all of _us_ who now hope we might one day be able to build our own Temptress, because of how much you’ve proactively, preemptively helped us by building those resources in advance. Which then means s second order time-saving calculation has to estimate how many people will now be willing to try a Temptress build, who never would have had the courage otherwise. I’m one of those, who now hopes I might have a shot at building a Temptress iteration with my brother, as a “retirement” project. If you hadn’t created those files, I wouldn’t have been able to seriously contemplate that, and I’m sure I’m not the only one! So there’s something seed-like-generative and fertile-in storing up part of your knowledge, expertise, and handiwork as digital files that people may still be able to access and work with, in a way that will keep bearing gorgeous iterations of Temptress “fruit,” long after we’re all gone. I’m very grateful for your vision and foresight!
Those frames are so pretty I would hang them on my workshop walls as artwork, I used to love seeing all the templates that my dad had when he built boats left hanging on the wall collecting dust
Great Job Dan I am finishing my boat and have picked up many tips from watching your fantastic and informative videos. Can't wait to see how you plank the boat. Keep up the great work.
Great progress, awesome video as always Dan! Was great to include these wider shots where we saw all of the action ! Your enthusiasm is « contagious by video » :)
Amazing job Dan, you are pushing the boundaries again 😄 I'm sooo curious if the 3d model will reflect the real world on bevels. This boat will be extremely pretty inside. Also have you ever thought of using wood color epoxy pigments? White looks horrible if somehow it leaks or used as a fillet. I also thought about using wood sand as a filler but I doubt the strength.
Yes that will be interesting. I don’t know how accurately 3D loftings replicate the way a physical timber will land. Time will tell I guess but the initial setup indicated it will work well. I’m looking forward to trying it all out. For areas that I know are to be bright finished and on display I thicken epoxy with the wood filleting blend and add in some mahogany dust for additional colour. I haven’t tried pigments yet though.
We just got a 5 axis CNC bridge saw for cutting stone at my job. You can also put router bits on the spindle and cock the cutter head 90 degrees. So of course, after watching some of your videos, I'm naturally conspiring to see if I can use the saw to cut out sawn parts (such as the bulwark stanchions) for my boat... Somehow I don't think corporate would like it though.
That sounds like an interesting machine and also similar to how I got started on all of this. Working with my machine on other projects and constantly thinking of how it could be utilised in the boat building world 👍
hey Dan, great to see your videos, as for parts placement in Fusion, I take a picture of my board from above, then import this in Fusion as a Canvas, size it and then you can see exactly what grain and deffects you have on the board.. you can use a decal as well and place that on your stock..
Thanks for this. I asked a question about time usage and you really made a good point that the CNC machine really is the 'second person' saving a lot of time. It is interesting how your techniques have become refined over the series. Jonnyb364 gives a good illustration.
Do you plan to have water pass-through drainage at the bottom of your frames? I saw a cool idea where holes were drilled and then the owner fitted a copper sleeve through the holes. Not sure there was any reason but it looked cool. Awesome project and great video's good luck.
Nice job Dan. It is amazing how much junk ends up inside the spindle when you wiped it out. Very pleasing to see how you are constantly improving the process. Nice to see the CNC running while you do another job. I notice when the final bevelling is done, are you cleaning the ridges left by the cutter to get to the theoretical face or does it matter?
Yes, someone mentioned it on a previous video. I had never wiped it out before and was surprised to see what was hiding in there. The finishing pass on bevelling gets rid of a lot of the ridges, especially now I’m doing more straight frames from the mid sections of the boat. A ridged finish won’t actually hurt as it will leave a good surface to glue to 👍
I have been enjoying watching your videos Dan, although I am not using CNC. I’m a hobbyist building a 14 ft clinker day boat called Skylark from plans that I got from Paul Gartside in Canada. This is all very manual, and I’m discovering techniques and skills which are all very new to me. Something I wondered about with your CNC cutting is whether you have considered producing a kit of the frame parts that someone wanting to build a Temptress could buy from you. So I’m thinking that you would ship the boards with the parts cut down to the onion skin so that the buyer could then finish cutting them out with a router profiling bit. Obviously this wouldn’t give the buyer the nicely bevelled frames, but it would provide very accurately cut frames which the buyer would assemble. Just a thought, wondering if it could provide you with some revenue from what would otherwise be down time for your CNC equipment. Although this is obviously also going to require a considerable input from you.
Paul Gartside designed some lovely boats, many of the students at the Boat Building Academy choose to build his designs. I can cut kits however most of the interest in the plans and in building seems to be from overseas, I haven't yet had any serious enquiries regarding a kit supply within the UK. Of course once you factor in shipping of large items like that overseas the cost goes crazy! In most instances I find builders are better off getting a kit cut locally to them.
I haven’t yet… a fix would depend on where the break is but due to the fact it’s only at a dry fitting stage, I’d hope to be able to remove the gusset and pull out the bit with the pincers I use for removing the pins. If it broke off right inside the wood then I’d probably have to use a plug cutter to cut away the wood surrounding the drill bit and plug it afterwards. Let’s hope that doesn’t happen!
I don’t know if I’ve got the brain power to tackle a new design right now 😆 we have a few more possible models to work up. They are likely to be smaller though not larger I think.
Instead of having a layer of plywood around all of your unfinished parts on the CNC, why not leave a few small tabs to hold each piece. Would that not be a lot less finishing work? I see you already have a spoil board underneath your workpiece.
Dan explained this in a previous ep. Being solid timber not ply, it would require dozens of tabs to firmly hold the pieces, which would dramatically increase the work.
As @mrbarrymills said, I did talk about this in a previous video. The issue with tabs is that I’d need a huge amount of them per part in order to retain the integrity of the board and there is much more risk of a tab breaking than the complete onion skin due to the fact this is solid wood. Tabs also interrupt the cutting pass as the spindle has to stop, lift up and go over the tab, the can, but not always cause little burn marks in the vicinity of the tabs. It also interrupts a smooth, high feed rate finishing pass which is what gives that great final finish. There are also a few other reasons regarding dimensioning of the board and stock efficiency. If you take a look at the CNC cutting episode I explain my method and reasoning in detail there 👍
