this is what it s allllll about right here !!!!!! Before i sold my house, i'd be chilling. Next thing you know I was changing clothes and out back within minutes building some shit !!!! I didn't give a dam what time it was. My whole neighborhood knew my favorite hobby and i had zeroooo complaints, only compliments when it got turned on. I had ad an asian dude who lived next door who was like 100 years old who barely spoke english and couldn't hear shit for shit, but when i cooked up something with some serious bass, he'd stick his head over the gate, smile and throw me a thumbs up !!! LOL. hahah
A lot more work goes into a box like this than many people think. Building a good box is way more effective than spending tons of money of subs. A great box can make even crappy subs bump. Hell, I bet if you put Pyle subs in that box, they would sound okay. Although, putting Pyle subs in that box would be like putting vienna wieners on sourdough hotdog bun.
Sure, then they blow because you sneezed at the some time the coil was going out of the gap! “Effective” is subjective, what is the goal? More expensive (there is a threshold) subs give you many benefits and the same goes true for them as well, “expensive” subs also thrive in a well built proper sized and properly tuned enclosure! In SPL, cone area and watts are king!
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 Yeah, a good box won't make a cheap sub handle more power. But a crappy sub in a good box will sound better in a lot of cases than a good sub in a crappy box. But yeah, in SPL power is king and cheap subs and lots of power don't mix, at least not for more than a few seconds before the magic smoke pays a visit.
@@BlenderRookie there's a balance, there's also the fact someone who spends $1,000 on a sub isn't going to spend only $20 on a box...... HOWEVER, someone who spends $50 on a sub will ONLY spend $20 on a box 😂 Cone area is just as equal as power; You double the cone area, +3db........ You double the power, +3db! I'm practice for me, that has held true..... It's a good rule of thumb but it's not THEE rule!
What is this installed into? A truck? Can we see that part of the build? I am wanting to do a blow through but not sure on what to expect as far as spl levels compared to a SUV or other non blow through. Like how much is actually lost from them seam between bed and cab?
I’m not sure that box is strong enough for them subs! What’s the tuning? (You might have said but I couldn’t hear well because I turned it way down because all the router SCREAM scenes!!)
Great job just a word of advice from experience. Try using a flush cut bit with a bigger drum on that quarter inch collar. It cuts a lot faster and cleaner I started using a fatter flush bit and so much easier. Keep up the good work.
I love building boxes and run a 6th order with 2 dtx dreamsicles and your do a great job and have skills but if you step up too the x z or nightshade serie you should double up all your wood so all walls are 1.5” and make your baffle 3 layers 2.25 . I still brace but you can brace a little bit less having 1.5” walls. I buy titebond bungee galllons and Might need a couple homies loading it though. lol
@@clittle1559 also going to want to port that closed off section 😂 ESPECIALLY with that small of a chamber! Going to either blow the box or the cones, given how much he braced that box, my money is on cones! (Dust caps will for sure blow off first dig!)
I think my baffle is currently 5 layers…… (started with double baffle with 2 15”s, to 1 15” which I double baffled on top, then cut it for 1 18” , then another baffle back to 1 15” 😂)
Nice build man. You stay in Florida? I’m down south in Homestead. I have a Silverado as well with a custom 6 cu ported box, tuned to 32Hz. Love me some baaaaassssss. lol. Enjoyed watching your video. Keep it up.
Steal?? Also an all steel body will sound like a rattling tin can with the amount of bass not to mention become a literal death trap due to the lack of crumple zones, it’s a proven fact older cars are more dangerous due to the lack of crumple zones!
I was curious was it fourth or sixth order. I have the same design in my car, and they told me it was a sixth order, but i felt it was a fourth order. Either way, it bumps harddddddd. I get thumbs up all the time when i crank it up. Buttt at the same time, if you a stereo shop, you suppose to know your shit. LOL
you just killed the value of that truck by thousands for a speaker box wtf love my system but I will give up a seat before I cut the truck apart just like a lift kit where you have to cut the crossmember if you ever plan to sell DON'T cut anything unless you have enough money to burn because a $40,000 truck with bed cut or crossmember is now worth $20k I will never give away 20k for speakers or lift but nice job should use screws though just my pref.
I cant believe you spent that much time on plywood, with it's inconsistent rigidiositty. Why didn't you just use MDF (medim density fiber)? Rookie mistake. Pay more for noticeably better results. You have created "good", when it could have been "great" for a few dollars more.
If he used a high grade plywood, there should be very few to almost no gaps or voids. Baltic birch plywood is a void free 13 layer ply. I believe weight wise, its very comparable to MDF while being more durable. That said, i dont think he used baltic birch but it didn't look like it wasnt a bad quality.
Tell us you don’t know what you’re talking about without telling us you don’t know what you’re talking about! (Granted THAT plywood, I don’t like to use)
100%! Not “birch” from Home Depot (like he used in this) the hardwoods plywood at HD (and the like) is MDF core, can’t remember the other 4 layers and the thinnest veneer of whatever wood it says on the tag! Baltic birch 3/4 plywood is all birch and is 13 layers (maybe 11, too lazy to look) and is also significantly lighter!
