Recommend staining or painting the 3/8” plywood pieces to reduce bowing out due to moisture in the air. They’re too thin. Also anchor down all the corners of the big and smaller boxes and have a lock for all the hinged openings. This is to avoid stuff flying and injuring you in a rollover accident or if you slam on your brakes at highway speed to avoid accidents.
I am glad to see he anchored down the rear corners of the box. I noticed there is a floor anchor point (the ones that anchored the seats) in the center of the box. That would be a good point for a third anchor, at the least. Also, I think a few wraps of heavy wire would be superior to nylon ratchet straps. The straps will stretch and weaken with age.
Nice build, Tristan! You could put 2 L-brackets facing away from each other on each side of the long boards, to create a 'slot' that you can place a removable horizontal support board. Just take it out for the e-bike! Also, finger holes are always a good option for opening hatches. 🤙
have any height extra? you could use some aluminum Ls across the doors as supports for the thin plywood, should help with the warping without much weight, notch on both sides so when its closed the aluminum is well supported by the 1x8s.
To help support the long run, a center board same height has the frame, but hinge one side (the center side) and cut the board 2 to 4 inches shorter than the span. Fold out when needed, fold back flat when a long item is placed.
Everybody is contributing with advice and I couldn't refrain from doing it too! LOL take it from someone who worked in the mattress industry for years: you want to add some sort of air ventilation between the mattress and the plywood, mattresses on plywood develope mold. Also, use a waterproof mattress protector on the mattress (some are very thin and have some sort of terri cloth on surface so they don't make you sweat). Before you can even see the mold, you will be breathing in the spores. Too dangerous if you ask me. Other than that: AMAZING PLATFORM!!!!!!! you are right, you came up with a very creative solution, revolutionazing van builds! Way to go Tristan, Adriana :)
I've heard of that happening in many videos I've watched. When I was a kid we had chest beds. Just plywood and no ventilation. I'm curious why we didn't have a mold problem, especially because we lived in a high humidity/foggy area near the ocean. I wonder if drilling vent holes in the 1"x8" frame boards would be enough to prevent mold and mildew.
@@robertbehan9186 I'm not sure... maybe the new foams develop mold if there is no air circulation? Not sure. And you know what they say: better safe than sorry 🥺
@@robertbehan9186 Lots of variables in condensation inside of dwellings. One of the biggest changes in homes regarding condensation is that modern homes incorporate the "envelope" concept, which strives to hermetically seal the inside of the house from the outside in order to maximize energy efficiency. Of course once you do that using expensive materials and processes, you then have to provide powered solutions to control the climate such as complex ventilation and filtering machines. Older houses were "leaky" as we weren't quite so terrified of the outside world back then, and condensation was not a problem. Where condensation has always been a problem is in RVs/campers, which have always been designed to be sealed to keep road dust out of them. Condensation tends to happen under mattresses in them because it is sealed, is a small space, and there is usually at least one large mammal sleeping in them overnight. We put out a lot of moisture just by breathing, Add overnight temperature differentials between inside and out to the mix, and it becomes a problem.
A mattress laying on a flat surface will wick a lot of moisture down against the wood, with mold forming in a short time. This can be countered by placing some thin plastic mesh between the mattress and the wood, so air can circulate. This product is found at most home centers; used under laminate flooring. Good luck with the build!
I did similar in my 4runner. I started with a large platform then made 4 hatches to access under the platform. Under each hatch I added an LED light and added small bungee for stowage of small items. It was a fun challenge that I still enjoy modifying.
You are a natural born teacher! Excellent instruction; very thorough, doable, and minimalistic. Very much appreciate ALL of your videos; hope you continue with your channel forever.
Awesome idea and after building my first platform I learned that: 1. It's better to leave some free floor area in the back of the car so you can just open the door and get inside without getting you wet boots off. Also its helps to dress/undress and do a bunch of other things in much more comfortable way (so you could sit or even stand up a little bit). But when the entire back of your car is just one giant bed you'll have to do everything in laying position or get out of the car (and its not always pretty in there) 2. Use bolts and nuts instead of screws whenever possible. Screws getting loose in a few weeks/months because of vibrations..
I agree, but I camp solo. I also went with a thicker mattress and have no storage in the back part so that I can sit up straight. Took out the front passenger seat too and made that my kitchen. I can pretty much exist inside in a downpour the entire day.
I love that you included the clip where you knocked over the screw box. You don't sugar coat things and you don't make it look glamourous, which is one of the things I really like about your channel.
I appreciate how you addressed your needs. Well done! FYI. Raw, no paint or other treatment, will respond to humidity fluctuations. Like warping. And splintering. Large panels especially. I used a poly type and haven't had any issues. Looks like a mighty fine fish'n wagon...😁
Tristan, I bought the poly at HD from the returned bin, a gallon was 7 bucks. Don't get a bug selection of colors but I don't see it anyways. SUV'n isn't a static position or configuration. 😁
Tristan, I've been building for decades. I'm trying very hard to not "help you," lol. I think it'll be an awesome learning experience, and someone offering their "advice" just gets in the way of that process. I do wish we lived closer and were friends, if for no other reason but the free use of my tools and advice/ideas when/if you wanted that info. Have fun. You're doing wonderfully thus far. I'm sure you'll end up addicted.
I thought you did a really good job. I would be proud of that build. Thumbs up as always. You, and your wife are adorable together. Wishing you both many years of happiness together, and many great travels.
I really like the concept you came up with to access the storage area from inside your vehicle. Also, I really appreciate that you kept it simple with 1x2 boards to prop open the doors rather than going overboard with gas struts.
Nice build. If you crave extra room out back to get out of the weather or just to put your pants on standing up, Napier and other companies make SUV tents that attach to the rear hatch.
@@SUVRVing I know you sow so just get a used tent and modify it to what you want sometimes if you ask around you will get one for free. I love your creativity and how well you can explain what you are doing and thinking. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video. Safe travels.
just an idea. put a two by one fixed on to the lid. on one side to other .put blocks on side wall so that cross piece rests on blocks when lid is closed strength without taking up room... put finger holes on lids so that you can lift up from anywhere.. love your ideas and hoping to do a old vitara. Derek
Great job Tristan! You certainly don't need advice on What you've done or still need to do!!! You've got it covered! I have always noticed in your video's how you think things threw. Your Not one to just Do a sloppy job. You take pride in your work! Starting with how you plan your trips! So, I was sure you would plan & know how to build your work & comfortable living space while your away from home. And the times your Sweet wife & Dog join you! I am thinking of buying a refrigerator like yours. I waited till you gave your approval! I' am 78yrs. Old and hope to get my 1979 R.V. running again. It only has 85,000 miles on it and it just needs a simple repaire. I need to get my license renewed first. Then I look forward to being back on the road. I'll say hi if I see you! 😀
I see that it's already warping a little but you'll definitely want to put a few layers of polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer on all of the wood pieces so it doesn't warp more with the heating and cooling cycles or start molding from the amount of moisture it could collect.
Wow, this is great! I just bought an old 1993 Suburban specifically to do something like this. I have the interior pulled out now, installing new carpet and painting all the plastic trim panels. When that’s done I will be building some sort of bed platform for it. With my Suburban I have 100 inches in length to play with. This RU-vid channel is such a great source of inspiration, thanks.
Hi Tristan!! I just ran across this video. I hope that you are still reading your comments. These are great ideas and a very good initial build to try all the tweaks out on before you get to the final product!! You are also a very good teacher! You explain what you plan to do and how you're going to go about it, in a clear and easy to listen to voice. That's not true for a lot of others these days, it was very refreshing. Thank you for that. Without reading all 444 preceding comments, I do have some suggestions: 1) I would increase the bed boards to 5/8's at a minimum. This will also solve your warping problem as well, then I would paint them. In fact, I would paint all the wood. Actually, there are wood hardening stains you could use if you would prefer. 2) For all the plywood, you need to create breathing holes under anywhere a mattress might be. Otherwise you could develop mold on your mattress and wood. I also think adding a breathable carpet on top of each of the boards will help with eliminating splinters and covering the holes so stuff can't fall through. 3) Rather than the straps at the bottom edge, I would just route out an oblong hole midway along the bed and just big enough for your fingers to reach in and lift up. Remember you want to be able to open the area up while you're inside, trying to do this using the strap at the bottom will be much more awkward than a hole for your fingers centrally located. 4) You can create mid-supports in the bed boxes by attaching 1x8's on hinges that will either fold flat along the center board, or swing out to add the side-to-side support when needed. If you know what you will be placing where under the bed boards, you could even have a couple of supports on each side, or only on one. 5) If you had both boards behind the front seats open up the same way, like how it is behind the driver seat, you could add a couple of multi-angle blocks for supports. This way you could have supports you can use for reading or watching other RU-vid videos or just kickin back together in the evening. ;-) Well, those are just my initial thoughts after watching. I have an '04 Santa Fe that I have been thinking about doing something like this, instead of packing up my tent for solo camping. I will definitely be watching more of your videos!! So, from a new subscriber, thank you very much for sharing! God Bless and have a great week!!
You should do a crossbar on a hinge for the middle of the plywood bed frame. Kinda like an easel. It folds against the frame when not in use. When used as a bed swing it out to support the middle
Nice job. To keep your plywood from warping screw 2 or 3 pieces of wood side to side on each piece. It will help with strength as well. On your front legs if you cut them the width of the frame and put them under the frame it will be much stronger. The wood will be holding it up instead of the screws and L brackets. I am looking forward to your adventures in your new SUV!
Well thought out design. One way to stiffen the plywood sleeping platform without adding bracing is to glue/screw 3 or 4 1x2 furring strips on the underside of each side. I did this with thin plywood storage shelving that used to sag under a heavy load. I only suggest this because I I know you want to keep the compartment large enough to fit your folding bike. You could also buy 3/4 inch plywood but that would be way more expensive and time consuming.
I have a GMC 2001 Yukon (xl) as well! I've removed the rear bench and one of seats in the back. I need to keep it flexible because I use it often to haul things like 50 lb bags of animal feed and at times have 2 other passengers. This is very helpful as I may be able to still build the platform and be able to haul when I need to. I too am not a wood worker, and as a small woman, I need things to be light weight. Simple, light, flexible, is what I'm looking for. And a good storage area to keep camping supplies so I don't have to unload the entire vehicle or reload to get on the road. Thanks for the inspiration!
I did a very similar design in my minivan. I absolutely love the storage and inside access. I used 3/4 inch plywood for the top...I like the sturdiness. And outdoor paint to seal it. :)
Nice and simple. The stuff you'll have stored underneath can be arranged to further support your weight as you sleep. Like storing extra blankets and your clothing in bins. Happy exploring!
Did something similar with my old 1976 Blazer when doing field work on my geology thesis. My sleeping area was side-to-side where the back seat was and the rest of the back for my gear and geology samples. Always fun to see what others are doing to live on the road. Cool Video! Thanks again.
I just put a plywood on my expedition and covered it with a big area rug. After that, my memory foam mattress, my storage bins and my jackery 1000 Pro to power my TV and charge my phone and other gadgets. Plywood $16 and rug $19! The only real big one time expense was my solar generator but it’s paid for itself already! Plus it came with a 5 year warranty! Love my SUV life!
Agreed. I did the same on my 1990 F250. Used a couple of 2x4 pieces cut a bout 3/4" shy of the inside width, then glued and screwed to the bottom side of the panel. No sag with two people on it
I’ve watched several of you adventurers build out their vehicles for full time RVing, but yours is the best for the average person. I really like how you put your refrigerator and Jackery. That is cool. I would really go with thicker ply wood. You don’t want to wake up in the middle of the night with it failing.
It's strong enough to not fail. I think the worst case is that it'll just warp a bit more. But I do plan on adding a cross-brace in there. Thanks Michael.
Maybe for a future project add a long drawer with a lid that pulls way out from the hatch back. Use it to store your "kitchen". When pulled out the back it would give you a table top to use for food prep. Inside store your stove, propane, pot(s) and pan(s), dishes, utensils, spices, sink bowl, food, whatever! It would also add an additional support for the bed. Good luck!
Paint to give it a finished look and to reduce soaking up moisture encouraging mold, etc. I'll never understand why most people don't take that one last step to finish their work with paint. It takes very little time and effort but looks soooo much better!
Good video and great tips in the comments! I’m 20 years old and I’m gonna be getting a van pretty soon so I’m so glad I read these comments because there was a lot of things that I didn’t even think of yet that I’d rather know ahead of time before even starting off my van! I’m so excited 😂
Thanks for this. I am planning to do a similar bed platform in a van soon. One big tip...I was going to use decking wood so it will be like a slat bed. I found out a couple of times that if you sleep on a mattress on a carpet or floor you will get black mold appear under the mattress pretty quickly. A lot of moisture from your body goes through the mattress and needs that ventilation underneath. Otherwise your mattress will be quickly ruined. I have seen some people cut 3 inch holes in the platform to create the same effect. I have only watched the first 7 minutes so I presume you haven't done that. I will carry on to see.
Great first time video. I agree with others, priming and painting both sides of plywood will reduce the bowing. Since you are taking the plywood off to for painting, you can make the forward box frame more square before reattaching the plywood. Also the curved side of the platform, the crown side, should be the top edge as there still will be some bowing and will add to the support. Recommend next time using/replacing at least 5/8 AC plywood, smooth one side for bed support. Looking forward to future videos.
Always interesting to see an original idea executed. And just a point of interest, apropos of nothing, my Subaru Forester has the same 80" length (with the front seats moved forward), though it doesn't have the width of the Yukon. Your build reminds me that I could get a lot more storage by removing the rear seats. Just acquired a power station and fridge so I may have no choice. Funny how the nice-to-haves keep creeping in :)
You should drill finger holes or a slot into it, so you can open the doors up easily. The finger holes will keep everything flat so it won't mess up your sleeping surface. 👍
Nice. I would suggest stiffening the plywood with 1x3 runners screwed and glued underneath. Also you may want to drill holes to ventilate the mattress from underneath. You could put the extra 1x8 mid support underneath going across on one side and length wise on the other.
Great video, lighting and sound. For someone that it's not a carpenter or woodworker we're normally, you have done a great job an illustration. Thank you. I think I first saw your video about a year ago and I'm considering using your plan.
Just a quick tip. Use all phillips head screws dont mix slotted in with the build also the raise domed screws should never be used for hinges as the hinges are counter sunk and domed are raised. it will strain the hinges themselves. All in all though not too shabby. Does the job. Love the vids,keep them comming.
Reinforce your Corners for additional support Tristan, this will allow for greater stability, allowing it to stay true to "Square" brother! Keep up the wonderful informative evolution of your new Tahoe SUV Camper !
Nice job! Well thought out. Convenient, clever, solid design concept. I've been wanting an electric bike - can't wait for your review! Access from inside very nice.
I think this video must have the most comments of any you have ever done! Everybody has their own ideas. Here is mine: regarding top of the platform rigidity, you will find if you try different laminates, they all have different flex. Obviously thicker ply is stiffer, but also different quality of plywood, and waferboard. You can decrease the flex of your existing board by adding ribs underneath, as many suggest. Another way is to add one or two layers of fiberglass to the underside. Seems difficult, but not really that much work. Keeps panel light, doesn't add any protruding ribs to your storage area. And if you want, you can add a layer of resin to the top of the ply to waterproof it. Being a maker is fun! Thanks for the sharing...
Very informative even though I have a van. I built a bed, but I’m frustrated with the protruding trollies that are on the tracks where the second row seats are. I’ve been thinking of a platform rather than a bed to have a flat surface floor. This has given me ammunition to brainstorm from, especially since I now have power tools. Thanks again for all your great videos-I’ve been following you for a while!
Thanks Viveca! There are pros and cons to both platforms and having the bed directly on the floor, as you've found out. Depends a lot on the vehicle. Sounds like a platform would work well for you. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Always enjoy your work - thank you. You might consider sleeping on the passenger side so when hauling large items you don't block your side view when driving.
Hey Tristan! You could cut to length a piece of 1 by to prop up the opening for your head in to sit up and move the frig over to the other side giving you access to it if needed during the night! Great build!!
To stiffen the 3/8 ply, add a 1x2 ledger board on each side of the opening along the length, place it the thickness of a 1x3 below the top edge of your 1x8's, usually 3/4", but use one as a guide to make sure it will allow for the 1x3 to seat. This will provide a resting place for the 1x3 noted next. Place a 1x3 across the ends and in the middle of your ply lid/top. If 1x3 is not available use a 1x4, Sand the exposed corners to protect your hands, just a bit of round over. I would glue and screw the boards to the top. Screw down from the ply into the 1x. If you ever get into my area of Central Oregon I will help you do it. I enjoy your show.
Some may have said it already, but where you put your cooler add something to hold up the lid so it forms a back rest for you to sit up in bed. Turn the lid on the other side to do the same thing, plus then you could open that lid from standing on the passenger side if you needed to get in that compartment.
This design checks all the boxes for me: 1) Could sit inside the car; 2) Could access storage from inside the car; 3) Wider space on top of platform without the need for side racks for storage; 4) Simple design requiring only basic carpentry skills. I wish Tristan built this first before I completed mine early of this year 😁 .
Although I'm tooting my own horn here, your engineering skills are clearly limited and I've completed several of these builds that are completely awesome, I truly appreciate that you're out of your element. Your skills in producing videos is phenomenal, engaging and your videos are just a pleasure to watch and require me to put on the "To do list". Thanks, have a great day.
not bad at all. if i had room for a sleeping platform that could house the fridge, power supply, and misc gear, i'd do it too. the access panel approach is a great idea. 🤙
You could sit on the bed with the other storage door open as a place for your feet, and a fold down table/desk attached to the underside of the storage door... unless you have that storage filled with too much stuff for your feet!
You could always screw a support to the lid so that the middle is still open. You could put two strips on the bottom side of the lid. It’s looking really good Tristan I’m super excited for you and your new vehicle.
Howdy Tristan! After building out 2 camper conversions, first one in a Honda CR-V and my current build in a 4Runner I definitely recommend using at the very least 1/2" plywood for your platform...but I'm sure as you've already noticed, all the hardware for hinges and handles are made with 3/4" plywood in mind...so 3/4" would definitely give the most rigidity and usability. Once you've got it dialed in you need to put a top coat on all of the wood to maintain it's durability, for my builds I used Minwax wipe/brush on polyurethane, it seals the wood giving it water, UV, and stain resistance. The downside to applying the polyurethane is it takes a couple weeks to fully cure and off gas.
Welcome to full-size. I'm running a 2005 Tahoe with complete custom interior similar to what you've done. It's sitting on a 3 inch lift and 33 inch tires, with a custom built transmission. It's pretty capable but does rub on the inner rear finders at full flex.
An easy way to support the plywood: put a piece of 1x4 or 1x6 across the middle (flat). Fix it with some screws and glue. You will only lose 1 inch in hight and it adds an amazing amount of support.
It's really good and simple. I was planning to go on a road trip to Himalayas in my Mahindra Bolero and i think it'll be the easiest bed setup for my car.. Keep it up the good work..
Love it. Fast, simple, quickly made. I can certainly say you will learn and adapt and change it completely, but that is life. Ever growing and changing. Adventure on!
I love watching your vids because you are such a logical thinker and you’re also able to show those thoughts in things you build. Makes perfect sense to me how you do things. And you keep it simple! I did have a thought when you showed yourself on the mattress; What if you wanted a cold drink in the middle of the night? Might you want to switch your Frig and Jackery’s positions? Or did you have a specific reason for their locations? ❤️;)
You should consider using a pocket hole jig. Not hard to use and creates a way more stronger and stable joint connection than using tiny L brackets. The jig isn't that expensive but you do need to use screws made for it. Also you should consider closing up those openings in the corners. You never know you night put something small in there or something small falling out of a bag and roll out. Poop happens. Like the idea that you didn't build a bottom. It saves on cost and weight. Also good idea to use straps to hold down the setup using the built in tie downs. To support your lid, maybe you can screw in a strip of wood running front to back on both sides and one inch below the top edge to create a ledge. Then you can cut like two 1x6 boards that you can lay across supported by the strips of wood. The boards will act as supports for the lid. This way you can still use the full length of the box for stuff and you can also slide the boards around as needed or take them out since they just sit on the two strips of wood.
if you attached the center bracing directly to the lid and added two small cleats inside the frame for the bracing to sit on when the lid is closed you could do it cheaply easily and without blocking long storage (hope that makes sense)
Out of all the builds that I’ve seen I really like the way you did yours. I’m definitely thinking of choosing to do mine the same way. But I am going to use three-quarter inch and I am going to do the support for the bed cause I want mine totally sturdy. Very informative. Excellent video.
Great build, your years of Nomad existence has been a great benefit to helping you in the planning for this project. These are the types of projects that will be in your head for years, adding and subtracting as you go along. I added reflextics to the bottom and under top of the hatch, it helps with limited lighting and may be a help with the cold. If weight is a concern you can cut arches into the center support ( arch bridging) you keep strength and you cut weight. I cut holes into the sides and used it for sending straps thru to help with tie downs, also cuts weight. Great idea with the strapping down the platform helps with rattle on the washboards. Plus you have extra orange straps to use as pulls.
If I get an SUV, I may try it this build. Maybe attach 1 or 2 1x1s on the underside of the plywood, and notching out the 1x8s to accommodate the 1x1s. I'm on the heavy side so maybe 1x2s lol. Also, I might break up the long storage doors into 2 or 3 doors. Maybe drill vent holes in the 1x8s. Drill a hole in each door to grab and pull open the doors.
👍🏼 Very cool - giving me some ideas… I have the same AlpiCool fridge, which has served me well for over two years. Not too get too technical, but when you travel with your wife, the 3/8” plywood may not withstand extracurricular activities. (I’ll show myself out now 😔)
Some female that has an older Honda Pilot had a very similar design that she did like 4 yrs ago. Ahhh, once again, loe the way you PHYSICALLY got into the bed area so we can visually see the comparison. Its a good idea that you stated your height when you do this.
I'm excited for your ebike review, I've been using one for several years now and think they're the perfect companion to an SUV RVing trip, for setting your own shuttles, running errands around towns, and a better way to do most national park scenic drives.
Great build Tristan! Rather than go for half inch or inch thick plywood for the bed platform, maybe get some half inch deep, one to one and half inch timber lengths and make ribbing on the underside of the ply you have now. Of course then the ply will not sit flush, but you make cut-outs on the frame so the plywood will sit flush on the frame. About 9inch or one foot intervals will be fine. This will save a lot of weight, and make your bed firm. You could also put a spine along the length of the bed also? The front part of the bed might not have enough support on just 3 legs? The whole thing might not move much front to back, because of those tie down straps you have, but it is going to move a little bit, which may be enough over time to loosen the screws and glue in the front part.
To solve the bowing issue, how about removable cross sections? They could slide in when support is needed. Then removed if you did want something long.They could have holes/slots for fishing rods too.
You could glue and screw a few 2x2 ribs on the bottom side of your plywood hatches across the grain to stiffen it up while not having to divide your storage space.
Maybe it's been suggested, but adding a cross brace to the underside of the door flap that would rest on supports when closed would give you more stability without breaking up the space. They would screw into the door but then when closed rest in small blocks on the sides of the frame.
Hi Tristan….this is a great camping build to keep you organized! Thank you for sharing it! I have a Toyota Tacoma that I use for mine and my dog’s back country adventures. We have been setting up the tent for our overnights. But, I need to just get off my rear and do a basic buildout for the Tacoma so that we can reduce our camp workload and just get out there more. Safe travels
This is exactly what I need to build in the back of my Chevy S 10 Trail Blazer. I could just completely remove the 2 rear fold down seats like you did with yours, and have the same kind of platform built to put my mattress on. I would have to climb in, and out of the passenger side rear door though instead of the rear hatch, because my rear hatch does not have an inside handle to open the hatch up from the inside.
For center support you could use a plastic bin on each side that are the same height as your platform. You can store stuff in them and put them in the center to support your hips when you sleep. That way the bin is removable for when you want to put big stuff there.
You might use bedroom door hinges so that you can pull out pins and remove the plywood when you want to unload the vehicle. Lighter and not so bulky to move.
@@ronachadwick7908 the hinges are the kind found on any bedroom door. There is a pin that can be driven out with a hammer. On my van build I used that type hinge and replaced the hinge pins with big cotterpins that can be very easily removed so I can disassemble my van build and flatten it if needed.
Great build. Well thought out... 5/8" plywood for the platform will be sturdier, but heavier. Instead of the 1x across the lower gap in the forward section, you could use your 3/8" plywood since with appropriate packing in the rear compartments, whatever's in the compartment is unlikely to apply force great enough to compromise it's way into the forward boxes, and you regain 7/8" of capacity... if it matters. Again, great build!
nice build very simple an practical layout i will if a may suggest adding a sliding 1/2 "plywood sheet to use it has a table under your the back wooden frame it will need to be slotted in order to push it in an out flush of your SUV floor .i enjoy watching your video
Very cool! You will love this vehicle too. I just got a Tahoe. I currently sleep in the back set, which is like 5 and 1/2 feet wide (good, but I can't stretch my legs out completely). One day I might attempt a build like yours, so thanks for sharing!
